I just picked up the car tonight and drove it 50 miles home. The guy had the motor swapped in, put about 2K miles on it, then it's been sitting for over a year. He said it never really was tuned properly. I know the timing is advanced too far because it diesels when you turn it off. Things I noticed on the way home:
-Bucks at really low rpm when slowing for a stop.
-Kinda erratically misses when above 4000 rpm when accelerating hard.
-Takes off really strong, then it seems not to rev very fast to the upper rpms.
-Temp stayed about 170 cruising most of the way home, then a few blocks from the house had climbed to ~215. Shut it off, with just key on, only the driver side fan was running.
-SES light stays on.
The timing marks on the balancer are painted green marks. If your facing the engine there is a groove across the balancer, then clockwise, 4 green marks, large green mark, then 3 green marks. Which of these marks should I line up in the v groove attached to the motor? Is this normal?

What is the brass like ~3/4" nut with a wire connected, positioned midway on the block, pass side below headers? This wire was loose, and came disconnected with me just touching it.

What plugs should be installed?

I want to check the IAC and TPS, but I thought I would set the timing first. The car runs smooth as silk on the highway with AC and cuise control on.

The details:
ZZ4 w/TPI, LT4 hot cam, ported heads, roller rockers, Edelbrock TB, larger runners, ported plenum, headers, full exhaust, aftermarket chip(brand???).

Sorry so long, but this is going to take me awhile to come up to speed and get this thing tuned out. I've got alot of experience with mustangs and I've been reading this site for a week now trying to learn. Thanks for any help you give me!

Steve

 

I unplugged the EST wire and put a light on it...geez the marks are over an inch clockwise from the v groove mounted on the motor. That would mean I would have to advance it even more to line them up. What's up with this? I don't understand the process of marking a balancer on a new engine, but maybe this ones wrong. Would the car even run if it was that far off? What should I try?

 

I just pulled 3 plugs for grins...any reason they should be gapped from .055"-.060"? What plugs should be in the ZZ4? Currently Autolite #3924. There are new Taylor wires installed, how can I tell if they are crossed at the dist...there are no #indications on it?

It's midnight, so I'll quit it for tonight. The timing thing really has me wondering.

 

I'd move this to TPI board. You'll get alot of responses there.

 

It's got the HOT cam, that explains half of it! That thing bucks down low. Get your timing, TPS and IAC set right then start talking to people about a chip to run that big@ss cam.
That brass nut thing with the wire is the sending unit for the coolant gauge. Bend the tab inside of it so it will clamp with more force and not fall off, or replace with a spade if damaged.
What injectors are in this car? Does it have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator?
Find out and that could help explain some of it.

 

Im not sure if those are the right plugs or not, but thats way too much gap. It should be like .035-.045. The timing mark could very well be off. Theres supposed to be a groove in the balancer at about 2 o'clock with the engine at #1 TDC. If its not there, then something weird is going on with it. Check to make sure the spark plug wires are hooked up right.

You should find out why the check engine light is on, thats a simple thing to find out what the codes are and go from there... all you need is a paper clip.

 

Thanks a ton guys, I just got home and read the replies. I'll get a chance to spend a few hours on the car tomorrow. Someone said an exhast leak at the header could play havoc with the 02 sensor...sure enough there is one on the passenger side. I got some AC plugs today and I will check the wires. The timing thing still puzzles me. I guess I should find TDC at #1 and check everything. Man I cant wait to see how this thing runs after everything is right. Thanks again!

 

If this ZZ4 block is like my 88 L-98, the brass sensor on the block on the passenger side is the knock sensor. The computer actually tests this during operation and if it doesn't respond (wire off) it will set a code 43. It sounds like you will have an awsome ride when all is straightened out. Enjoy!

------------------
Red '85 MPFI V-6 T-5 Sport Coupe (bought new),now an IROC in sheeps clothing.
Rebuilt and installed '88 IROC L-98 TPI,700-R4,3.27 posi/disk rear,instrumentation, steering gear, and all suspension parts (even the wonder bar)
Mods:
IROC wheels, Hi-perf. rebuild on 700-R4,TCI sizzler torque conv.,B&M megashifter, L-98 .030 over,balanced,decked,blueprinted, SR Torquers, KB pistons,9.1:1 CR, port matched stock TPI, comp cams .450/480 206/210 cam, all free mods, subframe connectors, Edelbrock TES/jet hot coated, CATCO cat, Hooker catback, MSD 6A, airfoil, AFPR, K&Ns, polygraphite bushings all around, 1989 IROC memcal in summer, ARAP memcal in winter.

 

Woops he did say on the block, I thought he said 3/4" nut thing on the head by headers. MYBAD! Yep knock sensor wire. Need to fix that. Get this thing running right and it should impress you.