hey, I'm doing a v6 to v8 swap and I am almost done but I could use some tips on how to take out the motor mounts. Do I have to drop the lower control arms or is there a way around that? any thing will help thanks. I'll post pics when I'm done to show the before and after of my project.

 

You pretty much have to go in through the springs in order to get at them. Depending on how easily you get frustrated you might not have to drop the control arms. When you go to reinstall them put them in in reverse, i.e. put the bolt in from underneath and the nut up top - much easier than trying to thread the nut on using the wobbles. Using a variety of wobble sockets and extensions, plus someone with smaller arms than me, it took about 45 minutes to an hour to complete mine. Take your time, relax and remember "it's all good."

Darth Steve

 

I just used some extensions (wobble) to unbolt the motor mounts. Didn't have to remove any suspension parts. It wasn't easy though. There are some holes and things in that crossmember that you can go through to get at them. Be careful. You'll probably drop some of the nuts down inside of it. Make sure you have a magnet or something to fish them out with. To put things back together, I used some strings with little nails tied on the end of them. I lowered the strings through the bolt holes, stuck the "T" formed by each string with a short nail tied to the end of it through each nut, put 5 minute epoxy on the nuts, and pulled them up into position. The epoxy held them there enough to get the bolts started so that I didn't have to worry about things falling apart while I was tightening the bolts. This is just another approach, but scauffield's sounds like it'll work ok too. Hope I made some sense. Later.

 

hey rs, what year is your car? tell me how its goin...im doing the same thing.

 

On my 89., I had to drop the starter to get the bolt out...That was it...

 

multi, I believe he's talking about the bolts that hold the frame half on.

The problem with dropping the a-arms is you need the weight of the engine in the car in order to jack the a-arm back up so you can bolt them in again. If you have some sort of clamp that can grab the frame & a-arm, you might be able to do it that way.

But, having the a-arm down is certainly the easiest way to get to those pesky nuts. I did it with the a-arms up, sprayed upholstry adhesive on one side of the flat washer & nut, stuck them together, put the nut in the socket with wobble & extensions, got them on that way. Crude, time-consuming, but got the job done.

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam and intake, World 305 heads, Hooker headers & y-pipe, 3" Catco cat & 3" cat-back).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 600 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).

[This message has been edited by five7kid (edited July 08, 2001).]

 

hey, Thanks ever one for the tips. I got one of the bolts out with out lowering the lower control arms. but I am going to have to drop them any ways cuz my friends and I couldn't get to the others so just another delay luckly I know some one who has a spring compresser and I'll get that to finsh this off. I have an 1988 White_boii and so far this project has been going well its just the money thing. you know you never have enough. hehe I took some pictures and I have to get those developed and then I'll make a web page or something to show off what I have done.