mat89RS

for the fuel and power sterring line I've used 3/8" brake line and I have a tool for flaring each end , I was able to buy some joint to connect them . I'm done with the mecanical side, it took me 4 days but it's all done . now , electronic, wich me luck !

------------------
89 Camaro RS Stock as a women with white panties
LT1 IS COMMING SOON.

mat89RS

Can everybody tell me their resistence value for their pass-key module II, i'm having problem right now and I cant find the correct value.

------------------
89 Camaro RS Stock as a women with white panties
LT1 IS COMMING SOON.

multi-tasking

Mat89RS, I sent you an email that contained a table with all the value for both PASS-KEY and version II. It was about a week or two ago. Did you get it?

v/r

m-t

multi-tasking

Keith5, I am sucking on this one... I can't answer the questions? Trust me.,I am still looking.
m-t

mat89RS

You are right, didn't check my e-mail in a while ! thanks

------------------
89 Camaro RS Stock as a women with white panties
LT1 IS COMMING SOON.

mat89RS

Great news guys, I started my engine it work like a charm, it running smoothly at 550 rpm on idle not jerking at all, and it take about 2 crank turns to start it. I did it with the harness that came with the 93 engine. I did it in 2 days. lot of work involve with the old/new passkey system, the passkey it self is a bit*h to remove, it's right in the middle of the dash above the radio. good luck to you guys , My project is done !!!I'll be starting maybe a database for the information .

------------------
89 Camaro RS Stock as a women with white panties
LT1 IS COMMING SOON.

TexasLT1

isnt it great that first time you fire it up?! it was even better when I did mine because the only exhaust parts that were connected at the time was the header and y-pipe, it had one mean sound, still does, just not as loud. lucky for you yours had a smooth idle at first, mine seemed to barely run, the first time I took it out the alternator wasnt running and it was at night so it quickly died after cranking on it all afternoon, stranding me only about a mile from the shop. oh well, it was still great just getting to drive it again after having it on jack stands for over a month. it was definately worth the time, effort, and expense though. and we should all absolutely put our experiences together and right some kind of article, I had started on one but didnt get very far becuase a time constraints. Ill see what I can come up with in the coming weeks.

mat89RS

My alternator is still not working also, can you tell me what you did to make it work, I've tried to connect the red wire to the baterry and also I try the connections from the 305. hmmm..yeah it's great to drive it again but it took me 1 week to do it .

------------------
89 Camaro RS Stock as a women with white panties
LT1 IS COMMING SOON.

Keith5

I'm curious now, how much did you all pay for your engines?

multi-tasking

I paid $2000 for engine, tranny, computer, and computer wiring harness. I got the forward (fuse block) wiring harness from a v6 (1993) and made it into a V8.

Ron

UnderDogRS

i paid $2500 for my 94'
got the LT1 w/ 50k,4L60E,harness,computer,3.42 posi rear,and shipping.

RS

[This message has been edited by UnderDogRS (edited August 06, 2001).]

TexasLT1

oh yeah, I forgot about the alternator thing. coming off the back of the alternator is the little red wire. in the bundle of wires coming our of the firewall on the drivers side is a wire that went to the original alternator, connect these two. thats all I can tell you because I have no idea what wire it was.

multi-tasking

I think it is time to come up with a plan! What are we going to write? How do we want to present what we have learned over these past few months? I suggest that we all review both of mat89RS topics and come up with areas that we feel can write about in a clear and consise manner.

m-t

Quote of the day! Unity, coherency and development in writing paints a picture that is clear, consist and to the point.

---One of my English teachers



[This message has been edited by multi-tasking (edited August 07, 2001).]

mat89RS

texaslt1, can you tell me exactly how you pluged your radiator, and also how you plugged your heather core, my engine is overheating bad, please help me before I blow up something.


thanks

------------------
89 Camaro RS Stock as a women with white panties
LT1 IS COMMING SOON.

mat89RS

can people with lt1 tell me how hot there engine is running ???

thanks guys

------------------
LT1 POWERED
HEADMANS HEADERS
NEARLY 300 HP.

multi-tasking

Are you using dual or single fan setup? I can scan and send you cooling information for your engine.

Did you write down how you did the under dash wiring....what you connected to what and where its located?

m-t

multi-tasking

Actually, this section of the book is very short:

Primary fan controlled by ECM based on inputs from A/C, ECT and VSS (nothing in this secton of book about when VSS turns fans on).

Primary fan will be turned on when:
1. ECT above 108 degrees C (226 degrees F).
2. A/C head pressure above 248 psi.

Primary fan turns off:
1. If turned on by ECT -Temp drops 3 degrees C (5 degrees F)
2. If turned on by A/C - pressure drops to 200 psi.
minimum "ON" time is 50 seconds.


Secondary fan will be turned on when:
1. Throw certain codes.
2. ECT above 113 degrees C (235 degrees F).
2. A/C head pressure above 248 psi.

Secondary fan turns off:
1. If turned on by ECT -Temp drops 3 degrees C (5 degree F)
2. If turned on by A/C - pressure drops to 208 psi.
minimum "ON" time is 30 seconds.


Hope this helps

m-t

mat89RS

wow, thanks for the info, yesterday guys, I blew up my rad, it was brand new, about 1 1/2 old. I just bought a 4th gen rad ,it's comming today let's hope it does fix my problem. I'm hearing a big grinding noise when I'm in reserve and park or when the car is at a red light . any knows what it is. I can also tell you guys that your camaros will be lot different ! the amount of power is just crazy. ! Multi-tasking, I didn't write where I plugged everything because it was more a test then anything, I didn't tought I could actually figure it out with the stock harness.

------------------
LT1 POWERED
HEADMANS HEADERS
NEARLY 300 HP.

multi-tasking

Sorry to hear about your radiator. As a lesson learned for others that are doing this -- do you know why you blew the radiator?

Grinding noise! Dude, that cannot be good! Hopefully TexasLT1, UnderDogRS or one of the others will step in and make a recommendation on what you need to do before you put it back on the road. I am still reading, give me a few more years and maybe I can help

Last thing., when you get a chance go back and look and see where you plugged your underdash wires in at and write the stuff down. I would like to compare what you did to what I am doing.

I have not looked at my car in the last three weeks. Hopefully, I will get some time this week to play with it.

More power---Wow--What a concept!!!!

v/r

m-t

[This message has been edited by multi-tasking (edited August 14, 2001).]

mat89RS

well bad news guys !! I got the right rad this morning, the guys gave me the wrong one last night(it was nicer than the one I now have ) , 380$CAD, da*n, any way when I blew up the old rad, my water blew up also and it started to leek like hell today, there goes another 100$. Since the distributer is just underneath I am very lucky it didn't blew up, the price of these module is just insane, well over 400$ from the dealer ...Hope you guys do check your radiator and cooling system before riding your car !!!

I kinda tired of playing with that for now, I've been low-life for a while and it's kinda sad ... i'll be starting to cry soon !
all I wanna do if race a Rustang !...keep on the good work it's well worth it !



------------------
LT1 POWERED
HEADMANS HEADERS
NEARLY 300 HP.

TexasLT1

matt, Im not real sure what to tell you about the grinding noise, where is it coming from? when does it do it? is it all th time or just at idle? about the radiator, let me run look at my car and Ill tell you how all the hoses are hooked, well, atleast try to explain it.

ok. looking at the front of the engine, the hose that connects to the thremostat housing connects to the bottom left of the radiator below the pressure cap. the other outlet on the water pump that angles to the drivers side connects to the top right of the radiator. the smaller fitting on the water pump on the bottom left side of it connects to the mushroom looking vacuum heater valve that has the three smaller hoses going in to it. this hose connects on the bottom fitting of the valve on the one that is at a 90* angle to the two fittings right above each other. on the bottom right of the water pump is another similar fitting, this one we just put a short 6" piece of heater hose and capped the end becuase we didnt know where it went. also, I am using a stock replacement 3 core radiator, not a 4th gen, and I also only have the stock single fan grounded to run continuously.

let me know if that helps any, sorry for not posting anything sooner, Ive been away for a few days

mat89RS

I think my grinding noise is the actual AC compressor that vibrates on the cross member, not sure and I don't want to pull the engine out. hmmm...well I changed my rad, changed my waterpump now, the heater core is also blown. every single bit of my cooling system was dead. I have another heater core so I'm fine for now.

------------------
LT1 POWERED
HEADMANS HEADERS
NEARLY 300 HP.

next mods:
crane roller rockers 1.6
lt4 hotcam kit
airfoil
58MM edelbrock trottle body
new paint (wet look blue)
17' rims with 275 zr 40 and 245 zr40

mat89RS

Yup my heater core is dead, also my battery and my alternator !!! at the end, i will be paying more for that motor than I paid for the car. good news for chevy clan, my car goes faster than a mustang, ALOT !

I've raced last night, mustang 5.0 lx 5-speed and well my take of was so fast, the stang could not even get close to me(about 2 car away).next weekend I may try it at the track to see the 1/4 mile ET I guess i'm in the 1/4 low or 13 high



------------------
LT1 POWERED
HEADMANS HEADERS
NEARLY 300 HP.

next mods:
crane roller rockers 1.6
lt4 hotcam kit
airfoil
58MM edelbrock trottle body
new paint (wet look blue)
17' rims with 275 zr 40 and 245 zr40

multi-tasking

Dropped the 350 in over the weekend. What a pain! But I like the way it looks. Mat89RS, how bad is the noise coming from the compressor? We did not try to attached the compressor to the mounts to keep virbration down. I am thinking about pulling or raising it to put a screw in to keep the noise down.

v/r

m-t

mat89RS

are you asking about the noise when the engine is running with compressor clutch on or when it's just running on the free pulley ?? Myself i don't have AC but the compressor is still vibrating on my cross member and it's bolted to my engine motor mount. the vibration is not that bad. By the way this was my grinding noise, the ac compressor ...I would recommend you to just put a big amount of black sillicon where you modified your cross member, it should stop the vibration or at least help.

------------------
LT1 POWERED
HEADMANS HEADERS
NEARLY 300 HP.

next mods:
crane roller rockers 1.6
lt4 hotcam kit
airfoil
58MM edelbrock trottle body
new paint (wet look blue)
17' rims with 275 zr 40 and 245 zr40

multi-tasking

Just running. Hopefully, I will get some time to finish this up this week. Can u think of anything else that I can do to make this easier.

thanks

m-t

mat89RS

well if it's making noise when the engine is just running and it seems comming from the AC compressor pulley it means that the pulley bearings are shot or it the pulley is almost seized and the serpentine belt is running faster that the pulley is ...slipping = squicking noise.

------------------
LT1 POWERED
HEADMANS HEADERS
NEARLY 300 HP.

next mods:
crane roller rockers 1.6
lt4 hotcam kit
airfoil
58MM edelbrock trottle body
new paint (wet look blue)
17' rims with 275 zr 40 and 245 zr40

TexasLT1

I HAVE A/C!!!! oh man its great, I cant believe I survived without it! but now a question. at idle and up to about 1000 rpm, not a peep from my compressor, but once it gets above 1000 rpm a slight wirring (?) sound starts coming from it and it gets a little louder the higher the revs get. I told my dad and hes not sure about it yet but he hasnt ridden in the car yet to hear it. we are just thinking it needs another can of oil becuase we accidentally lost most of it while reinstalling the compressor and lines (long story). do yall think the can of oil would stop this?

mat89RS

hmmmm.that looks like the bearings are shot or the electrical clutch is not working properly or the solenoid that activates the clutch is not working well.

that's all I can think.

------------------
LT1 POWERED
HEADMANS HEADERS
NEARLY 300 HP.

KILLED:
98 MUSTANG GT CONV.
88-89 MUSTANG 5.0 CONV.

next mods:
crane roller rockers 1.6
lt4 hotcam kit
airfoil
58MM edelbrock trottle body
new paint (wet look blue)
17' rims with 275 zr 40 and 245 zr40

multi-tasking

Mat89RS, my car is not up and running yet! I am trying to avoid the problem you were having. The engine is in (What a pain the the A**). I am now working on relocating the battery and other wiring and or v6 to v8 nightmares.

m-t
=========
Money has very quickly become a serious issue.

mat89RS

texaslt1... you wrote
the smaller fitting on the water pump on the bottom left side of it connects to the mushroom looking vacuum heater valve that has the three smaller hoses going in to it.

can you explain in detail ...what are the 3 small hoses ... ?


------------------
LT1 POWERED
HEADMANS HEADERS
NEARLY 300 HP.

KILLED:
98 MUSTANG GT CONV.
88-89 MUSTANG 5.0 CONV.

next mods:
crane roller rockers 1.6
lt4 hotcam kit
airfoil
58MM edelbrock trottle body
new paint (wet look blue)
17' rims with 275 zr 40 and 245 zr40

mat89RS

I think I blew up my lt1, it started smoking last night ...


------------------
LT1 POWERED
HEADMANS HEADERS
NEARLY 300 HP.

KILLED:
98 MUSTANG GT CONV.
88-89 MUSTANG 5.0 CONV.

next mods:
crane roller rockers 1.6
lt4 hotcam kit
airfoil
58MM edelbrock trottle body
new paint (wet look blue)
17' rims with 275 zr 40 and 245 zr40

Pete 85 Z

How many miles were on the motor,at a junkyard here in So Cal,they want 2500.00 for an engine and trans and supposedly all the wiring,that has 82000 miles on it!!!

TexasLT1

one of the hoses is the one that comes off the waterpump, the other two go into the firewall to the heater box. as for my a/c, I added 2 2 oz. cans of PAG oil today to see if it will work, it seems to have helped a little, going to give it a few days to see if it does anything more. my dad agreed multi that it could be bad bearings. do you know if there is anyway to rebuild the compressor? if not, how much for a new one?

I got my LT1 with complete wiring harness, no tranny, for $1500

Pete 85 Z

Texas LT1 how many miles were on it ???
And what do you have to do to get the a/c to work? Does the a/c control vac supply hook up the same?
etc...

multi-tasking

Mat89RS, how bad is it smoking? Just because it smoking does not mean the engine is blown --- I think

I finished building my wiring harness last night. Looks like it came from the factory I have decided to remove the smog pump. When you guys removed your smog pump what did u do about the opening in the rear of the engine?

Mat89RS, save me so time. Tell me where you plugged the wires that run back into the car.

v/r

m-t

multi-tasking

Sorry TexasLT1, I do not know how much a new/used compressor cost or should cost. Hopefully, the oil will solve your problem.

m-t

multi-tasking

Pete 85 Z, shop around and keep an open mine, you do not have to pay 2500 for a LT1. I paid a small fortune for mine because I did not know any better. I have since learned a bit. Try to get the entire car… That way you get the wheels, interior., etc…. Lots of nice stuff to compliment your 3rd gen.

If I were to do this again, I would go to an auto auction, or use Ebay and buy a junk 4th gen. I think the cost would be about the same and you get more stuff.

m-t

mat89RS

Well the way did it is pretty simple, I just unplug the old computer and with the haynes manual I was able to match the cables that had the same description... about the vats that is just too hard to explain because I sliced every cable and plug them the way a passkey II is suposse to be ... and that's about it ...

about my motor well it's smoking white. the motor is not blown be fu*k I got the remove the heads and all that so it s*cks big time ..

by the way texas I was the one who told you about the bearings !!!

------------------
LT1 POWERED
HEADMANS HEADERS
NEARLY 300 HP.

KILLED:
98 MUSTANG GT CONV.
88-89 MUSTANG 5.0 CONV.

next mods:
crane roller rockers 1.6
lt4 hotcam kit
airfoil
58MM edelbrock trottle body
new paint (wet look blue)
17' rims with 275 zr 40 and 245 zr40

TexasLT1

Pete, mine had 30K miles on it and in about a year Ive added another 12K to that, but anyway. to get the a/c to work you have to first notch the crossmember so that you can leave the compressor on the engine, but then you have to get an adapter from CarQuest that turns the lines at a 90* angle out of the compressor so that they dont hit the crossmember. sorry, I have now idea what the part number is. keep the original a/c lines so that you can piece together a new set, you will have to get about a 3 ft piece from the parts store but thats about it. as far as the wiring goes, on the back of the a/c controls there is a green wire that is hot when the a/c is on and cold when not. we found this in the engine compartment and found the corresponding wire on the new harness. turns out it was also a green wire in a small bundle that ran down beside the alternator. simple soldering job and Ive got a/c. it appears the oil has helped some becuase the sound hasnt gotten anyworse. funny thing is, I was joking with my brother this morning that at high rpms someone might mistake it for a turbo. be nice if I actually had one, but oh well.

multi-tasking

The CarQuest part number for the 90* fitting is: CTC 202058.

m-t

mat89RS

i'd like to know if it's possible for someone to tell me where to plug the steam vent return coolant line???

thanks

------------------
LT1 POWERED
HEADMANS HEADERS
NEARLY 300 HP.

KILLED:
98 MUSTANG GT CONV.
88-89 MUSTANG 5.0 CONV.

next mods:
crane roller rockers 1.6
lt4 hotcam kit
airfoil
58MM edelbrock trottle body
new paint (wet look blue)
17' rims with 275 zr 40 and 245 zr40

TexasLT1

to be honest I dont know what a steam vent return coolant line is. where does it come from/go to?

mat89RS

nevermind I changed my head gaskets and no more problems with coolant lines ....

my car is even stronger then it was before ..
I'm in the process of dropping a 1996 posi unit in the back ...




------------------
LT1 POWERED
HEADMANS HEADERS
NEARLY 300 HP.

KILLED:
98 MUSTANG GT CONV.
88-89 MUSTANG 5.0 CONV.

next mods:
crane roller rockers 1.6
lt4 hotcam kit
airfoil
58MM edelbrock trottle body
new paint (wet look blue)
17' rims with 275 zr 40 and 245 zr40

multi-tasking

Rain rain go away....Come again another day!

55ChevyMan

I doing the same swap where is Street & Performance address phone thanks I lt1 with 4L60e

bingo

iTrader: (2)

You do realize this post is 6 years old don't you?

55ChevyMan

yes I know it old post but I just started my swap I want to used the stock gauges if possible street & perforance wants $410 for there part trans tail housing seem high

johnmark

hi man
i am new in the third generation family but wanted to know what happened with the lt1 swap???

55ChevyMan

it waits the daulsfans need connecting and the fuel pump I hurt my lower back last July so I had stop driving even my 55 no more car shows but I am getting hope to finish in spring