Ok Im planning on building a 555 big block chevy to put in my 92 RS. It needs at least 700 lb of torque and 800 hp. Im running a 1250 e 85 dominator on a dart single plain intake. AFR 357cc heads with 13:1 compression. The block is going to be a dart billet aluminum block based off of their aluminum race block. It will have a deck height of 10.2 so i can us 6.8 inch rods. A stroke of 4.25 witch will give me a rod to stroke ratio of 1.6:1. The crank and cam will be made out of billet steel. The rods will either be titanium H beams or Billet steal h beams. forged aluminum pistons. A 4 or 5 stage dry sump oil system with valve spring oilers. The camshaft will have roller cam bearings. The rev limit will be 8500 rpm.

But My question is will hookers 1 7/8 primarys be a restrictor or will they flow enough?

 

You're guessing at a lot of parts assuming they'll make a good combination. Parts and specs you're quoting mean absolutely nothing. You'll probably be a lot better off buying a prebuilt engine close to the specifications that you want.

As for the headers, I would say you need a minimum of 2-1/4" primaries for that engine. Stepped to 2-3/8" would be better. The tall deck block with raised exhaust port heads means custom made headers to fit into a third gen. The Hooker 1-7/8" primary headers are a street header for nothing more than a 454.

I'm assuming this "200 MPH goal" is something like a salt flats run? You'll need a lot more that that to get that goal in a 1/4 mile.

 

you are going to need a lot more power than that to do 200 mph ans sustain it. i would be looking at the suspension first.

 

600 hp will get you to 200 mph, whether at Bonneville or on a large paved oval. I'd suggest dropping back to a 9.8" deck, AFR 315cc heads, an iron block with 4.625" bores, and if you want the stroke, use 6.535" rods. Otherwise use 6.7" rods with a 4" stroke. The 1.875" headers aren't ideal, but they will only cost you about 10 horses at the 700 hp level.
With a Bonneville car, weight is your friend, so forget the aluminum block.
You don't need to turn this thing more than 6500 rpm to hit 200 mph, either, whichever stroke you go with.
Forget the Camaro, get a Trans Am. Then extend the airdam and side skirts.
When Lingenfelter set the record, he chose a Trans Am with a low deck big block, and he was only turning it 6500 rpm. He did what, 278 mph? I'm not interested enough to look it up for you.
You obviously have Not done Enough Good research. If you have the money to buy all the exotic parts you named, then just pay someone like me to build the car for you.

 

Titanium or Billet rods for 800hp? Billet crank?

Shitty Eagle H Beam rods and Eagle Forge crank will do 1000hp and not break a sweat. A 555ci engine can make 800hp with a mild cam and still keep the revs under 6500rpm easy.

The pieces you picked out would be ideal for a turbo motor making more along the range of 2800hp. If all you are looking for is 800hp you best bet would be to goto www.cnc-motorsports.com and they should easily have an engine there to fit your needs for WAY less than you were planning on spending.

 

Why should i use a short deck block? I choose it so i can get 1.6:1 rod stroke ratio.

This car is Being built to race in open road race events like the silver state classic. This type racing can see long periods of WOT so it needs to be very durable and then be dependable enough to get me home.

I am going to use a manual rack and pinion type steering and i want a good weight balance between the front and rear. Thats why i choose Darts new billet aluminum block. Its stronger then iron, lighter then iron and runs cooler.
The camaro stays i am not rich but i do need these top end parts to increase its durability. Most of the parts are for that reason not just for power. Ya it will take me a long time to get these parts but its cheeper then upgrading each part every one or two years.

I am all so not afraid of checking lash every two weeks or after every race.

I am using a jerico 5 speed road race transmission. 3.875 - 2.13 - 1.57 - 1.24 - 1 With a 2.83 rear gear and 27 inch tires for open road corse events. That would give me a top speed of 230 mph at 8000 rpm in 5 gear.

Links
http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/GearCalc.html
http://www.bigredcamaro.com/newsite/mainpage.html
http://www.sscc.us/
www.youtube.com/watch?v=mJTDcMWsqd0


I found some headers that have 2 1/8 primaries and 3 inch collectors.
Thanks for the post it helps me question my parts and helps me get my goal.

 

Chassis

Spohn Tubular K-Member / A-Arms / Coil-Over Package with solid BBC mounts and Pinto Manual Rack Mounts
Spohn Tubular truss-style Subframe Connectors
Spohn Tubular Steering Brace Pre-Load Adjustable
Ed Quay fitted sixteen point roll cage
Edelbrock Strut Tower Brace

Suspension
Front - Spohn "Pro-Tour" Coil Over System
Rear - Coil Over Kit - QA1 Single Adjustable Shock with variable spring rate
Torque Arm - Spohn Cross member mounted Pro-Series Adjustable Torque Arm for Five Speed Transmissions
Rear Lower Control Arms - Spohn Tubular Adjustable with Del-Sphere Pivot Joints
Panhard Bar - Spohn Tubular Adjustable with Del-Sphere Pivot Joints
Front Sway Bar - Spohn 1-5/16" (solid) 4140 chrome moly
Rear Sway Bar - Spohn 1" (solid) 4140 chrome moly

 

First, I'm not knocking you but "and then be dependable enough to get me home."

-If you are going to spend the major $, I would say build to be dependable, but be realistic and understand that it may hit catastrophic failure and not get you home. If you are going to race a car in the triple digit speeds, you may one day find your self not driving home for one reason or another say a worn Distributor gear, a stretched rod bolt, a thrown timing chain, blown piston ring(s), head gasket failure (even with something like an o-ringed block or fire ring head gaskets from ROL or the like), clutch failure, transmission explosion, U-Joint failure, Rear end center section blowing out, brake pad/rotor/caliper failure, blown lines, failed fuel pump... I'm just saying. Wish you the best though with your project, sounds like fun

 

Ya i understand what you are saying thats just my ultimate goal. If i really can do this that would give me the satisfaction of knowing i can go 200+ any time i want with out fear of breaking something. It also proves you don't need some exotic car to go 200+. i mean i would love to go up against a european car and just beat hell out of it. That is without cops around. That would be just way cool if i could build a engine that could do that. It also is very very dangerous but thats why i putting a 16 point roll cage.

 

Tough, dependable, and make lots of power? Man, forget the BBC... get an LSX block from GMPP and build a 427 or 454 LS engine.

 

I thought about it i like the idea of 6 bolt main if i remember right but cast iron is way too heavy and besides Dart says that their billet aluminum block is stronger then iron.

 

I have the same goal. i've always beleived that for about a quarter of the price I could take a camaro or firebird and make it capable of at least hanging with if not beating one of the exotic super cars. I'm looking at using an ls block and trying to get about 1000hp with the help of twin turbo's. I'm still in the process of learning about turbos, so I have a long ways to go. Good luck with your project, hope you reach you goal and make it back home in one piece.

 

Cool man. Here i will give you a list of web sites that will help you on your journey. I just thought i would give my two cents. Turbos are grate power adders but they can get hot and with out proper cooling and oiling and they are just another part to fail. Thats why there's no replacement for displacement my friend. Plus you don't need 1000 hp to go that fast unless you are doing a lot of strip racing too. Good luck.

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This web site has good info http://racingarticles.com/article_racing-21.html

Big red camaro the 69 camaro i look up to
http://www.bigredcamaro.com/newsite/

 

An all aluminum BBC is going to weigh about the same or more than an iron block/alum head LS engine will... the LS engines weigh less than a comparable SBC does (all iron, iron/alum, etc), and a TON less than any BBC setup. If weight is really an issue, use the aluminum LS7 block.

IIRC, an all aluminum ready-to-run LS2 only weighs around 430lbs. Good luck getting a BBC even close to that.

 

That might be true but aluminum blocks have different properties depending on how they are made. A Cast aluminum block is weaker and expands more then a Billet aluminum block. Plus core shifts are more likely to happen in a cast aluminum block too. Weight is a issue but i would rather have a block that i can count on to handle every thing i through at it. Besides i don't like fuel injection or electronics on or in a car.

 

hold the phone i just found out something dart makes ls billet aluminum blocks give a bit to do some research

 

i think i rather stay in my comfort zone on this. I mean can you make a ls carbureted without electronics of any kind what so ever? And if you can whats the max CID?

 

I forgot the name of the shop but somebody builds 500 cu inch lsx motors. They make "super deck" kits too that artificially raise the deck height of LSX engines for more stroke. They won't sell you the parts or tell you how to make the 500 inch motor though. All their stuff is proprietary. And its mucho cash dollars too. The video where the head guys wife was stompin 427 LSX's at the track and then drivin home was pretty funny.

I gotta agree with the earlier post about the trans am too. When they trans am came out in 83 or 84 it had the best coefficient of drag of any american car production car ever made. I'm sure the 84 corvette was better but thats what the sales brochure said.

 

I have recently revised my engine combo

Size - 550
Stroke - 4.25
Bore - 4.54
Block - Dart Billet Aluminum
Deck Height - 11
Rod Length - 7.63
Rod Ratio - 1.8:1
Compression - 12.5
Heads - AFR 357cc with Del West Titanium Intake and Exhaust Valves and Jessel Shaft mounted rockers.

 

I have no idea where some of you guys are getting hp numbers to run 200mph in a third gen, but stock it is around 475 to 500hp. A new LS3 Vette can do over 190 with 435hp and is only slightly more aerodynamic.

A breathed on LS2 or LS3 will give you enough hp without the fitment or cooling issues a big block will have. Besides, it is 250lbs lighter just for the engine!

 

I guess i am old fashion. I have put many hours into just planning and calculating just so i can get what i want out of my car. I understand i could use a LS motor but I want a big block. I mean a LS motor is not even in the same class as a Mountain motor such as this. My question right now is (Does any One know some one that makes motor mounts that will lower a big block down father into the engine compartment?) I want to do this for a better center of gravity.

 

I understand about you wantting a bbc but i really think something like an ls7 or an built up ls3 would work fine for you, while the new vettes are about the same in aero im guessing, they also weight quite a bit less so i think you would wanna go for max weight savings. but i dont understand why you would need such an big engine for 200+ mph i think something more like a 427 would do you better. i could be wrong though as im still stuck with an 200hp engine lol.

 

This project started when i read this article.
http://racingarticles.com/article_racing-21.html

Then i stumbled across this monster of a camaro.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mJTDcMWsqd0

Then i combined the two. This equals one exotic street legal camaro project aimed at stomping ferraris, porches, and lamborghinis in open road racing competitions.

Here is a road race website that some i would like to enter in some day that is once its done.
http://www.google.com/search?client=...UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

 

(I am using a jerico 5 speed road race transmission. 3.875 - 2.13 - 1.57 - 1.24 - 1 With a 2.83 rear gear and 27 inch tires for open road corse events. That would give me a top speed of 230 mph at 8000 rpm in 5 gear.)

This has changed im still using a jerico 5 speed road race transmission but with a 3.584 First. My rear gear will be a 2.91:1 ratio with 315/35-20 pirellis in the rear. That would give me a top speed of 235 mph at 8000 rpm in 5 gear.

 

I´ve read this topic and am not sure if you know about a Norwegian guy Pål Arvid Blytt nicknamed Polly and his 1986 trans am project car.

http://www.pollymotorsport.no/

Youtube has some videos on the car, which unfortunately are in german (any numbers are metric) and the Polly Motorsport website is in Norwegian, so there is this language barrier thingy where Google translate doesn´t quite help.

Here are links to some of the videos

a German car magazine reported on the project
link 1 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBnSu0YKShY (about 10 minutes)
link 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWkeY...eature=related (the remaining 8 minutes of the show)

high speed run at Papenburg (where Brabus tests their black edition mercedes and Audi and Porsche do their high speed runs)
link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eEKpw9H9u1A (407km/h = 250+ mph. Audi did not beat the 380km/h mark that day)

There are some videos of the car doing autocross but it blows a tire after a few laps. Guess it´s not that suited for autocross.

There are 3 reasons to bring up this project.
1) the guy built this car by himself, spending almost $250 000,- on the project
2) the car is street legal (it has norwegian licence plates and all required documentation)
3) the car came in 2nd place in the 2007 Silver State Classic starting in the unlimited category.

 

Hey thanks for the info i will have to translate it some how. At least im not the only one doing these insane type of builds

 

If there is anything in particular you would want to know, just let me know. Ever since I first came across the polly T/A I learned a few basics for norwegian (norwegian is not completely unlike dutch). German is not an issue either.

Copying and pasting most of the text into googles translater or babelfish helps a bit. Some parts are gibberish, some are translated into something which can be deciphered into english with some effort

Just a few details, the car has a 540 cid aluminum block with a 4,50"bore and 4,25" stroke with a procharger compressor. 9" ford rear axle, 6 speed manual gearbox with 6th gear as overdrive. 2,47 final drive ratio. (almost 200 mph @2700 rpm in 6th gear)

 

Dude .The Open Road Races are great. I really don't think you need to turn it that hard. Need to concentrate on Suspension and coolers. The BBORR will eat you alive if you can't cool it. The new race in Sept MPORR will be hard. Work on corners and get yourself a really good Navigator. NONE of the Open Road Races will let you run that fast unless you have lots of races under your belt. Get school out of the way at each event. They will have you run in one of the three lower classes the first year. Trust me I have lots of them under my belt. And I have left lots of expensive parts on HWY 285 in Texas. Its a blast but these guys run safe events and even the fastest started out in slow classes. We found water in the oil this year at BBORR and decided to run the Tow Truck. {3500 Dodge Diesel} Ran 85 MPH class had a ball finished 3rd.
Take your ride and get it to corner and do some NASA type events. Not even C Friend travels at 200 in his Corvair all the time. And he does move. I have build two Open Road race Camaro's and will help any time send me mail off this forum

 

You wanna spend that much money, and want it to be dependable, check out nelson racing engines, nothing can even come close to the reliability and he can get all billet aluminum ls blocks that are stronger and lighter. http://www.youtube.com/user/nelsonracingengines that is his youtube so u can see some of his work, and http://www.nelsonracingengines.com/ that is his website, he focus on small block turbo builds which would still weigh less than all aluminum big block. This would be a good choice http://www.nelsonracingengines.com/p..._427sbc_na.pdf 19grand and it will never fail you, and u have a 800 hp all aluminum small block that will help with ur weight balance and you will never have a problem with it.