ok so I am getting my motor on friday, yesterday we pulled the old 305, went smooth no problems,

i started cleaning the engine bay and noticed a couple things-

1- do i need the vapor canaster? can I remove it?

2-the dizzy plugs are completely different then the 305 dizzy plug? what do I do for that?

3-if I remove most of the wires from the passenger side will the tcc still work if i leave the computer there??

4-i have a 1994 camaro i took the rear end out of it works great but the speed is way off now can I take the speed sensor from the 94 and put it into the 91 700r?

5- if someone could list all sensors required for the carb set up?


350 .30 over, forged pistons forged rods, 10.4 compression, vortec heads port and polished,tapped studs, spring seat lowered for clearence, holly dp 650 cfm carb, delco remy dizzy from a 1985 setup with vacumm advance, xe274 cam,

thats what I have so far,

how do I hook up the dizzy?????

 

1) You can remove the vapor can - just run a length of fuel line out under the car from that third metal fuel line

2) You have to cut the plug off the end of the dizzy harness, put new ends on the wires, and plug into the new HEI distributor - a will yield which color wires go where - it's probably in a sticky in the engine swap or carb forums

3) Maybe - never done it this way - there's a sticky in the carb forum - it might only lock this way if you rig a switch to lock it using the ALDL connector wires, which is fine, mine is set to only lock when I do it manually with a switch

4) I don't think you can - I think you have to get the proper speedo gears for the new rear end gearing and install them in the tranny tailshaft - this is how I did it - speedo gears avilable at 700R4.com, and again a will help you figure what new color gears you need

5) Only thing that needs connected is a) oil pressure (either on top of the china wall driver side of the distributor or just above oil filter, b) coolant temp (driver side head between #1 & #3 plugs), and c) fan switch to activate your cooling fan (pass side head between #6 & #8 plugs) - that's it for 'sensors' on the engine

Sounds like you got the HEI vacuum advance dizzy.
Got the return style fuel pressure reg for use with the in-tank pump, or did you do a carb pickup with a mechanical pump?
Got the proper geometry corrector for your TV cable, and a good sturdy throttle cable bracket for it?

 

i have the mallory 4309 return style regulator.......

so for your tcc you put it on a switch, i take it that the plug in front of the speedo thing is the tcc plug? so that is the only thing on the passenger side I need eh? I really would like to remove the entire wire harness but i want my gauges to work!!

 

Guages will work even if you remove all the pass side harness.

TCC lockup is controlled by the ECM through the 4 prong connector on the driver side of the trans - I have no idea how to make the TCC work without buying an aftermarket kit to install in the tranny (that's what I did). Maybe you can do it through the OEM 4 prong connector in the tranny without buying a seperate kit like I did, if you keep the ECM in place and use a switch - but I don't know.

My TCC is controlled by a TCI kit that had the vacuum switch - but I didn't like how the vacuum switch worked and so I just used the manual lockup option and wired it to a switch inside the car.

 

is there away around this lock by just crossing wires through a switch, in the car ? I am taking the passenger side wires and hiding them all,

 

Im assuming that if you leave the ECM connected, you can rig a manual switch through the ALDL connection wires to manually lock the TCC when needed - but I've never done it personally. Leaving the ECM connected will make the SES light in the dash light all the time - but you can simply pull out the light for it and solve that irritating issue.

You need to be able to lock the TC in some manner - you get better gas mileage on the highway, and it keeps the transmission cooler. But you can't have it locked always - it will stall the car and cause problems at lower speeds. It needs to be locked at some point above 50mph if you're maintaining that speed for any length of time. That's why I just used the manual switch - that way I can lock it once I'm on the highway, but don't have to worry about it if I hit 50mph between stop lights.