So I am right in the middle of my 454 swap in my 83 T/A. It is a 454 with aftermarket heads, roller rockers, performer intake, Holley 750, and hooker super-comp headers. I just purchased a rebuilt 700R4 for the project (New trans is supposed to hold up to 650 hp but that would probably be wishful thinking) an I am questioning my torque converter. The transmission came out of a shortbed chevy with a 383 stroker (520hp) and it came with i believe a 2600 stall boss hog T/C. I am kind of new to this performance building stuff so please be patient. I am wondering if this torque converter will be suitable behind my BBC. I should say that this car might make it to the track once in its life. I plan on using it as my weekend hot-rod so street driving mostly. From what I understand- the higher the stall rating the higher rpm needed before launch. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. Anyone have any advice as to if I will be satisfied with this T/C or do I need something around a 2200. Open to advice. Thanks!

 

We can't pick a converter until we know your cam specs. It'd also be helpful to know your rear axle ratio and rear tire size.

 

I don't remember what the exact specs for the cam were. I know it isn't too big. Just an average upgrade cam. The gears are the stock 3.23 gears. I am hoping to go to something like a weld pro star look (15X10s on rear if they will fit. Smaller on front.) I have heard people using 3500 stall converters and 1500 stall converters. Just curious if mine will work out.

 

If it was mine, I'd go with a B&M Holeshot 2000 converter. You can use a 15x10 on the rear with a 6" backspacing, if it's measured correctly. Measured out to the lip is wrong. But if they measure it that way, you need about a 6.375" backspacing.
That's what to order. Now, to get it on the car, there are several threads in the wheels and tires sub forum that detail how to fit 315/35s on 17x11s with 7" backspacing. Stephen is the guy to ask.

 

If the cam matches your intake manifold, the Boss Hog will be fine. You'll get used to the stall very quickly and won't even think about it.

 

Only if it's a tight 9.5" converter. If it's a loose 11", it'll be miserable forever.

 

It would be nice to know if the 2600 was advertised or observed, but if it was observed behind that 383, it won't be "loose".

Granted mine was in a TH400 and behind a 396, but it was advertised as 2800-3200 and actually stalled at 3500. It was fine on the street.

 

I like kid, and he's nearly always right, but this isn't the first time we've disagreed about torque converters. we've agreed to disagree, so here's my perspective.
Once upon a time, I bought a '95 Z28 convertible. Pure stock, except with a Hypertech tune. Had a 1500-stall converter, and a 2.73:1 axle. Stock.
Not having the funds to change anything else, I installed a loose 12" converter rated as 2400 stall. I already had it from a previous Camaro.
Once I got it installed, it really was 2400 stall. The car did not move until the rpm hit 2400, then it jumped like nothing else. Burnouts instantly became effortless, but when trying to behave, in town, around cops, whatever, it was annoying. I never ever got used to it.
And that's just a 2400 stall. I can't dream how much worse it'll be with a 3600.
Your engine would be great with a tolerable 2000 stall. With that 3600, you're just gonna destroy transmissions, U-joints, axles and drag radials.

 

If you don't know your cam specs do you know the general rpm range the cam is supposed to work at?

If your cam is setup to work between 3 and 6k rpm then it would be fine. If you are running a cam that makes power between Idle and 3000 rpm like a stock peice it would be a waste as the cam would be done making power 400 rpm after the the car started moving.

Ask your engine builder what the powerband of the engine combination is.

Alot of people run 2400 rpm stall converters in 4l60's and 700R4's behind warmed over street 350's and 383's.

I don't think a 3500 rpm stall converter would be horrible on the street. You just don't slam on the accelerator when starting.

 

Will do! Being that this is my first real car project, it sure helps to have a bunch of knowledgeable folks who are willing to share info. I just picked up a set of the hooker super comps (brand new ceramics) for 350. Anyone have any good ideas for a solid rear end swap that wont cost $2000. Keep in mind that I will not be running this thing on anything but the street. Thanks!

 

The only hope on the rear axle is either nurse what you have, or do a junkyard 9" ford. Currie sells the turque arm bracket separately for like $50, IIRC, just weld it on yourself. The other brackets would have to be cut off your stock axle, then welded to the ford. Doing it this way can be done for under $400. Be sure to get your pumpkin from a truck, better chance of 31-spline axles. Most car 9" axles were 28 spline. The Ford 9" axle shafts can be cut and re-splined without having to buy new replacements. But a 28 spline cannot be re-splined to a 31, the 28 spline diameter is too small. that's why it's not as strong.