Ok since I see alot of threads on doing engine swaps and alot of people asking about 383 motors and the details on them and cost and what not I figured I would chime in with some details about my build to help those looking to do a similar swap.

First thing to cover is anything a 305 uses can swap over to a 350 block. Minus of course the crank and pistons. If your planning on going from a 305 to a 350 seriously think about th 383 as the difference in building a 383 compared to a 350 in cost is only slightly more. That is if your buying new pistons and crank for the 350 then a 383 crank is on rough the same cost from a company such as eagle or scat.

My engine is a 350 K vin from a Chevy pickup 1989.
The total cost to hot tank, bore 30 over, install plugs and cam bearings was 140 ( I supplied the plugs and cam bearings).
The rotating assembly from Skip White came to just over 800 for forged pistons, stroker rods, and 383 scat crank. Plus the flex plate and harmonic dampener.

The build consits of
383 Stroker crank
-12 cc Dish Forged pistons
58 CC 416 HO Heads
XE268H Comp Cam
Torker II Intake manifold
600 CFM Edelbrock Carb
HV Water Pump
160 degree T Stat
Mallory 4309 AFPR
High powered 168 Tooth Starter



I live in Fl. So with the temp right now I absouletly refuse to build the engine in the garage. So I set up a spot in my office. laid down a tarp to take care of any spills and set up the engine stand.



Close up of the block.



Crank installed and Gear drive.



First 4 pistons installed.



Heads and lifters installed.



Water pump and front drive belt pulley installed. Intake and carb installed.


During the install I had to notch only one section where the rod bolt touched the block during the up storke. Once that was clearanced everything else turned with clearance smoothly.
Only thing left is to pre oil install the headers and flex plate. Install the Dizzy and place back in the engine bay and run the fuel lines. Hope to have it up and running in the next week or two.

With this setup I'm running 10.1 to 1 compression with a dynamic in the 7.3 to .4 range.

The block was free from a local mechanic who's a friend of the family.
rotating assembly 820
Camshaft bearings 30
Freeze plugs 25
carb 50
intake manifold 0 (dad's old 377 intake race motor)
heads assembled 200
Cam and lifters 140
HV Water pump 50
Starter 50
HEI Dizzy 50
Machine work 140

total cost to build $1545

The great thing about this setup is it affords me plenty of room to expand as time goes on.
With 58 CC heads I can upgrade down the road to 64 or 72 cc dart II or patriot heads putting the compression to 9.5 and 9.1 respectivly. This would allow me a nitrous or blower setup while increasing perfromance on the better flowing heads.

This engine will be mated to a 700R4 and 3.42 rear end.
Redline will be 6,000 rpms with the shift point set to 5,800.
The cam is set up to give me power to 5500 so this will be an ideal setup as holding the rpms for 300 more till shifting will keep me in the power band.

Anyways just a point of reference for anyone looking to do a 383 stroker setup. My setup is alittle bit more expensive as I went with forged pistons. Any questions or comments shoot away. And yes I know someone is going to go off about the heads being 305 heads.
The 416 HO(High Output) heads are non swirl port heads. Various members have proven in flow benching that they flow very well for stock heads much better than the 305 swirl port and 350 swirl port smoggers. And almost as good as the L98 heards. With port work they can flow better than l98 heads upwards to 230 lift at .5 on the intake side.
these heads have been ported and a three angle job done as well.
Any ways enjoy.

 

The Torker 2 is crap. Your static compression is between 10.19:1 and 11.12:1, depending on which head gaskets you used, and how far in the hole. First, if the machine shop lightly decked the heads, which they should have, you have to figure 57cc, not 58. Second, since you didn't get the block decked, your pistons should be about 0.025" in the hole at top center.
So, if you used FelPro 1094s, you're around 11.1:1. If you used felPro 1044s, then you're around 10.2:1.
And the carb is still too small.

 

350 and 305 cranks are the same.

 

NO, they're NOT! If you look at the counterweights, 305 cranks have 2 little notches, to make up for the lighter (due to being smaller) pistons. Don't spread mis-information. It makes everyone angry. And then it makes you look bad.

 

i stand corrected.

 

Thats funny it's the same exact intake my father used in his 84 Buick Regal with a 377 and off the bottle ran a low 14 and on the bottle a low 13. This is of course in the mid 80's in a heavy (4000 lb) buick regal.
Running that intake is a kinda nostaliga for me with my dad and despite what some say I have no lack of faith in that intake.
With the Torker II a smaller carb can be ran due to the pulse wave that the intake exerts under wot. But if it's an issue I have a 750 that can be rebuilt if needed. I'm at 10.1:1 with the felpro 1044. Heads are 58cc.

 

F nostalgia. I can guarantee that the RPM AirGap is NO less than 30 horses better than that junk. And get a bigger carb. Unless the heads were CC'd after final assembly, then you must go with 57 cc.

 

!

 

The engine I am going back with is also 383. What is the advantage of the hv waterpump?

 

Coolant circles through the engine faster under a higher pressure. This reduces the amount of "dwell" time water has on the cylinder jackets. The longrer the water sits the hotter it gets to where it is boiling. When water boils there are spots on the wall "hot spots" due to the mini air pockets developing as the water is attempting to convert to steam. With an HV pump since the amount of time the engine has the water in it is reduced the boiling effect is reduced but overall cooling doesn't drop as water flows it's core temp is roughly the same number. If you move your water temp sensor from the intake manifold as it is on TBI models to the driver side head's water jacket spot (as is on a 416 head) you'll get a better reading and see these's 305's run hotter than what most people think. At the intake your only measuring the temp of the coolant as it enters the block after it's been cooled in the radiator. I want to measure at the head where it's actually doing its job.

An engine that reads 180 at the intake is probably around 195 to 200 at the head.
And since the head is the most crtical operation in the car (controling the valves and contaiining the combustion) I want my sensor there to monitor it at the focal point.

So with the HV pump and 160 thermostat and new radiator hoses and a high pressure radiator cap my stock radiator should be plenty to keep the Stroker cooled.

 

Thanks for the info Werewolf that answered my question.

 

@ atilla the fun.... thanks for sharing your input, but dude, don't be a dick.

 

Thanks, i am currently planning my 383 build for next spring. First of all HIGH FIVE on the Edelbrock 600, second what rotating assembly did you use? and do you have the part number by chance?