so i'm going to be taking an engine class (removal, disassemble, clean, reassemble, install). I have the option of either building a dummy engine or bringing in my own and was considering rebuilding my old 305 out of my '84 Z28 (not H.O.)

I really don't care about making all that much HP but i would like to do a couple of things to make it run smoother and increase my MPG (it's at 8 right now lol) I was thinking taking it all apart, cleaning it up, and maybe putting a new intake on it.

i have been going through the threads and most people seem to rebuild for big hp numbers. I'll continue to go through the threads but does anyone have any advice on parts to look at or maybe stay away from and how inexpensive do you guys think i can do a simple rebuild for?

 

Go spend your first $150 on getting a 350. I know of at least 3 ways to get 25 mpg (hwy) from a 350, because I've done it all 3 ways. From there, your expenses will be slightly less than to do the 305.
You'll love the extra torque, too!

 

Dollars to donuts taking it all apart, cleaning it up, and putting a new intake on it wouldn't change that.

 

Just an idea, I got my 350 at the local pull-a-part for $45 (complete bottom end), when they're that plentifull and cheap why bother with the 305?

 

Well, if you think about it...
You are committed to doing a rebuild of SOMETHING

1. If you look at the prices of engine parts, you'll see that up to 85, they are slightly lower for a 350
2. If you look at the prices of parts for post-85 engines, you will see that the gap widens further
3. The 350 will be more powerful, and can still be fuel efficient.
4. Machine work will cost the same, assuming the same work is done on both engines.

So really, the only question is what you will pay for a rebuildable 350 core. If you shop, it'll probably be a wash. I'd take Attila's advice. Read some of his threads. He is the man.

 

I agree with Atilla as well. If you dont race your car that often, then just rebuild the 305 with a mild cam like an XE256 and just put some exhaust on it. It should run somewhere in the 14's and get good gas mileage.

 

I remain to be convinced the 305 would benefit from a rebuild.

 

so i think i'm probably going to pick up a 350 from a pull-a-part down here. anyone have any advice on what to look for or which vehicle to pull one from? what all should i leave on and is there anything else i need to take with it?

 

Anything that is from 1987 up is a good rule of thumb, because they are roller cam ready if not already. But I would look up the vehicle in question before you buy and check the vin. It will tell you the size, and then you can look up the vehicle and see what HP it came with if you wanted. I would get a vortec v8, 255hp, stock and put in a cam and do a little head work. That should net you 275-325hp depending on your intake and exhaust. Maybe more.

10243880 is the number of the block to look for.
Here is a page with all sbc block casting numbers
http://www.rapidomarine.com/default....sting_id_.aspx

 

Don't forget "San Diego, CA", meaning smog inspection and test.

 

yeah, i plan on talking to the guy who runs the auto course for advice and everything. I've already talked with him a bit and e said i could bring my car down and they'll throw it on their smog machine to check it out. They have a referee there and if i remember correctly aren't they the people who give the "ok" for making sure swaps are smog legal and everything is hooked up correctly?

 

You say you are going to be smog legal. You'd best get a game plan of what you are going to do and what you are going to lie about. It looks like you plan to stay carbed. You could avoid the referee by disguising your new motor as the original 305. If you cop to it being a transplanted 350, then you will need to upgrade the computer to match. If you get a later model roller block, then the only carbed 350 would be from a 1987 Caprice(or maybe some model of Cadillac or Pontiac Parisian,idk). Or you could say its a pre 87 but you'd likely need to be using perimeter bolt heads unless you think the ref wouldn't know better. Just saying you should have a game plan before you buy intakes, etc. I've never taken a swap job to a ref, so i don't know how **** they are, but the only way to be absolutely safe is to take everything out of the same car as a package.

 

That being GREAT advice, I dont think there is ANY way to hide a 350 swap to anyone who is trained (payed) to look at things like this. That being said, I am sure it IS legal to swap an engine in a car if it came with that engine from the factory in that car. Example: If you have a 85 Z28 with a 305 and swapped in a 350, since the 350 was available in 1987-1992 it would be okay. There is also a smog abatement fee you can pay annually to "exempt" your car if it is 6 years or older according to here
http://www.dmv.org/ca-california/smog-check.php

This link has some good info...

 

In another thread the original poster is looking at buying a carb intake. Any swap with a carb would have to come out of a 1984 and up passenger car. that would leave a carbed 350 from 1984 to 1987. i don't think it matters if the 350 was available or not in the receiving vehicle as long as all the donor induction and emission controls are transplanted with the engine.

 

If you have an engine that is newer than your chassis, you have to have all of the equipment the engine had in the vehicle in which it was certified. F-bodies never came with a 350 with a carb, only TPI.

However, B-bodies had 350 carbs through '87, so you can get it through that way. But, you're still looking at a "motor change".

Look again - it says "6 years old or newer".

BTW, the only way an inspector could tell an '84 305 from an '84 350 is if he found and read the block casting number.

 

Ah, it does say newer! I knew there had to be a catch or else there wouldnt be all that complaining. Glad I dont live there!!

OP - Go EFI 350 and you will be fine. TPI set ups go complete for like $200 on craiglist. I have an upper plenum and runners if interested.

 

lame...i wish i could just put all the 305 stuff on the 350 and it would be alright but whatever. I think i'm just going to do a simple rebuild on the 305 for some general knowledge and fun. Maybe when i move i'll plan a bigger build where i don't have to worry about such things.

 

Do a performance rebuild with the 305 and you can make 220rwhp with ease. Add a complete cam kit (valvesprings included), a better intake, a nice exhaust, some head work and it's very possible to see 350hp. Lets us know if you do, we would be interested in seeing.

 

that's what five7kid and I are alluding to. If you put in a 350 with a mildish cam, and drove it to the smog shop when tags were due, nobody is going to know its not the original motor. paint it black. if it were me, I'd find a 400 before class starts.

 

i've decided to go with the 305, so a couple questions.

first, which stock heads (junkyard rat ) would best fit this intake without having to mod the intake to fit it (thanks five7):

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-10185063/

second, can anyone recommend a cam kit to use? and should i get new rockers/springs? and if i only do one of those which would be recommended?

 

That dual plane intake will need a comp XE256 or XE262, dont over cam it, its not worth the dynamic compression loss. If you play your cards right with the heads, it will pull til 5600-6000rpm, and it will sound lopey regardless.
Pretty much any cam that has an idle to 5500rpm will work. Match your stuff. If you are carb I would shoot for a 110-112LSA 216-224 duration and .460-.500 lift, depending on springs and heads.

 

The heads on your 305 now are better than what you'll find at the junkyard (that will work with that manifold).

 

I wouldn't go that wild, especially with an LG4 in San Diego. I'd go with COMP's HighEnergy 252H10. I would do the Edelbrock 3701 intake, and Edelbrock 68713 headers.

 

Atilla, he has home ported the crap outta the heads...

Edit...Oops, im getting my threads mixed up, talking to 2 people doing this! lol

 

okie dokie, i wasn't sure if the heads on say a '84 HO would be any better. anybody know if there are better stock manifolds/y-pipe? $500 might be a bit much right now for headers.

 

i appreciate the input, to be sure is this the cam you're talking about?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-12-205-2/

would it be worth it to get the whole kit for ~$300:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-K12-205-2/

 

The HO heads are NO different from what you have, 416s. The HO manifolds and y-pipe were better, but aren't technically legal, especially in Cali, unless you change EVERYTHING to HO spec. Cam, pistons, gearing, computer, EVERYTHING.
The ZZ4 can be legal for your car, if done per the old GM conversion kit specs. In legal form, using the B2L exhaust manifolds, it made 308 hp and 367 ft-lbs.
But there's no cheap way to make much over 225 or so horses and be Cali-legal, because you started with the wrong car. Yes, that's the right cam. The kit has good lifters, but too much spring pressure, so I'd go with different springs. Also, that timing chain is too cheap, it will stretch an awful lot. Not good.

 

well that's good to know about the cam. they have a kit with just the cam and lifters i can get. do you think the stock springs and everything else is too old and worn to use (or just not a good choice)?

 

For the springs; http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-5802/ with your stock retainers and rotators. For the timing set; http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLO-C-3023X/