why does cam questions always turn into debate of "why didn't you" or "you should have went with" for the love hp someone please help me. had a thread on a rodders forum and on one seems to have any advice other then making me feel like an idiot... i dont need people to show me that .... i already know that lol

swapping 305 to 350 in my 86 camaro. i'm not a gear head i know just enough to not know enough BUT I'M HAVING FUN TRYING !! here are my parts

fresh 350 bored .060 over

pistons have a dish in them with 4 D grooves on both sides(i dont know what brand they came with the block)

bowl blended, port matched and polished with performance valves and beehive spring vortec heads

world products crosswinds intake

electric water

carb can be what ever i have a 650 edlebrock and a holly 750

3:73 posi rear

700r4 trans, haven't decided on stahl yet.

i have not bought the cam,lifters or rockers yet. other then not knowing the exact dish of the pistons that should be enough info to determine a good cam right? one guy told me those pistons are junk and i should get different ones... i can do that!! someone please direct my path oh my goals, as much hp as i can run through those vortecs with out blowing them off, pump gas and streetable.

 

I am the resident cam guru, and If you want the most HP possible from your 350, you should switch to flat top pistons, and use the Holley carb. As for the cam, the most power would be from a custom-spec solid roller, so the first question is if that's in your budget. Not just the cam, but also lifters, pushrods and springs to match. The second question is how much valve lift were your heads machined to accept? And the third question is whether you have a pre-'87 block or an '87-up block. '87-up has a 1-piece rear main seal, and most are casting number 638. Pre '87 are often 3970010. This has a big effect on choice of lifters.

 

i was hoping you would chime in i already have the beehive springs for the heads, i can purchase flat top pistons, and the budget can accommodate for the cam. the block is a 86-88 one piece rr main. so with that being known can a cam be selected? if so any parts #'s i could start pricing out? i hate being stupid lol lol

 

I wouldn't say you're stupid. It takes a long time to learn enough to not need input from experts. That's not the same as being stupid. Stupid is refusing to ask the experts.
In the future, if you want any particular person to answer, it's okay to specify who and ask for them. Or shoot them a private message (PM), even if the message is just to check your thread. I do get this literally every week. No big deal.
If this is gonna be street-driven, then you do need to invest in a set of COMP's EndureX lifters, you'll need the taller version because your block is '87-up, but they are available.
Telling me you have beehive springs is good, but it doesn't tell me how much lift the heads are machined for. You may need to remove them and get even more clearance.
I'll look at the Street Roller lobe specs tonight, and see what seems best. By the way, what elevation are you at? If you have no clue, just go to wikipedia and type in your nearest big city. The results nearly have the elevation.

 

Wicki said i was at 636 for elevation. the heads have not been machined just port matched and polished and bowl blended. i was told not to let a machine shop mess with the valve job because the factory 3 angle is hard to replicate. so machine aspect of it should still be stock. hope that wasnt a dumb move. i can take them back up and have more work done to them if that will help. was told they would never hold more the 550hp. i was hoping to just get somewhere in the 400+ range. this is my first motor build going solo.... "but having fun"... i have to keep telling myself that to keep me interested lol

your not alone in saying those pistons are junk. so when i buy the new ones, with the horse my motor "might" make should i go with forged rods and pistons?

thanks a ton for the input.

 

You're not gonna exceed 450 horses at best, so use whatever pistons you like, this thing's still gonna be all done by 6500 rpm, even if you use 1.75" headers, a Super Victor Vortec from Edelbrock, and a bogger cam than what I'm about to suggest.
If the intake bowls were polished, you're in trouble. If the intake short turns were polished, then the heads are junk. As in, can't be saved.
If you want best average power, and want to street drive it, then use COMP's #4872 lobe for the intake, and #4874 for the exhaust.
If this really is a dedicated race engine, then you have the wrong heads, but use the #4873 lobe for intake, and the #4875 for exhaust. For street, use a 112 lobe sep, for race, use 110

 

not a race motor just a fun ride. thanks for the input, i really do appreciate it. not sure what you meant by "short turn". the heads are gasket matched and then further down there the valves open and close(i thought that was the bowl) had all casting imperfections taken out. the bottom of the heads where the pistons come up were not touched.