only engine bay.

Mayco does a horrible job when it comes to overspray. They could care less where the paint goes, and that scares me. For instance, you can always tell if a car has a mayco paint job when the muffler is the same color as the car lol My friend just bought a fiero that had a recent white paint job from mayco, his mufflers are white, under the engine compartment is white, some of the hoses are white.

I understand where your coming from gunmetal, but take into concideration i have 1 day to degrease and power wash the engine bay, then only 1-2 hrs a day from monday-thursday next week. Then the motor getting pulled friday and installed saturday. Time is against me. And i am not about to dismantle everything from the compartment bay to have it professionally done

 

granted mine wont look this nice but this is where i got my inspire from

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/auto...bay-cheap.html

turned out sweet

 

Yeah Maaco is about the worst possible place to get your car painted, but mine still looks alright a few years later. It's gonna get redone eventually though.


I thought you were rattle bombing the whole car! Spray paint in the engine bay is fine by me though. I recently used rust oleum industrial spray paint, and I think it's a little more durable than the regular stuff, plus it comes in a little bigger can.

 

Wouldn't bomb the car with it lol. Now I can see why u were all **** with me lol

 

Haha well I'm glad we agree that spray paint doesn't belong on the outside. Sorry for being **** lol.

 

OK alittle help here. As i can say i havent personally seen the difference between starter bolts for the flexplate can someone tell me if its 153 or 163. They look staggered, but again i havent seen the difference

 

acouple more before pics. waiting for things to dry to put some rust stop on, then prepare for paint

not worried about the glue on the radiator support as i wont see it anyways. I still need to take the crossmembers off as it wont clear my second 16'' fan


Passenger side, degreased, scrubbed, and power washed


Drivers side, like i mentioned i ripped apart there bondo work to see and came up with a hole! grrr, what do you want for $500 bucks lol will be repaired at a later date


Last side pic of the car almost doing a wheelie :P of course had some help with the daughter while she worked on her hot rod


And one last shot of my blood, sweat, and tears. Hopefully next friday everything will go smooth

 

well she's started. Dont laugh at the final outcome. i cant paint lol got 1 coat of rust stop on the rough areas

 

this was 2 cans, gonna wait untill it drives and see if i need 1 or 2 coats more. Looks like i need to go buy 4 more cans of clear coat as they were alot smaller Makes me feel alot better she is finally blackl lol

 

Am done! 8:30 to 5:00, with a trip to the store for more paint. Total 4 cans gloss dupli color black, 4 cans of clear coat. I dont think it came out all that bad concidering everything that was in my way. Still a few shades of red where previous owner oversprayed. Am thinking next year i want to buy a painless wiring harness, then i can trash that junk, get my ac delete box in, and finish it up.

 

Looks good, much better than before. Just need to swap the motor and your ready to go again!

 

did you see the starter bolts? any clue on them?

 

I am not sure myself, I have the mini starter which works for both sze flexplates.
I think the options are 153 or 168.

You should be able to see at least half of your flexplate under the car, measure the diameter, 153 is almost 13', 168 is 14'. Or count the teeth at the diameter and double it.

Your starter has the staggered bolts.

 

Flexplate is ordered. Had to go with an ATI seeing it was the only one not on backorder, so had to spend an extra $80 grrr lol Also order the fel pro thick front oil pan gasket and silicone rear main seal. Hopefully that will solve those problems. Now its time to drain fluids and disassemble

 

Engine bay looks good!

Draining fluids sucks these days! I just spent $56 on trans fluid and coolant

 

Update and issues, like usual lol

Engines in, 95% wires complete. Now 2 issues ran into and 1 question.

AC box is hug!, thought i could get away with not taking it out yet but thats not gonna happen. Installing a delete box tomorrow so i can mount my msd and coil pack there. Also did not use my poly motor mounts as i didnt want any issues with header clearance, header fits but the collecter seems awfully close to the top the the A Arm, i hope to god i dont have issues connecting the Y pipe when i install it with the rear this week.

Main and only issue ran into beside the ac box. The car had a mechanical fuel pump, so now am back at square one with my damn fuel system.....AGAIN.......

So i bought a Mr Gaskets electric fuel pump ( not waiting to order one online ), pumps 105gph. Am guessing according to the paper that is 14 psi. It did come with a regulator, which am assuming i HAVE to use. Now question is
1) Do i still need a return line? which brings me to question 2
2) Whats the best route to go with this. I have 2 fuel lines running on the passenger side now, and looks to be 1 fuel line on the drivers side ( guessing that went to the canister on the battery tray? )

The electric pump is going to be installed at the rear somewhere. But where to put the regulator seeing i have 3 lines, 1 of which is at the total opposite of my 2 main ones


I was gonna wait on the rear just so i could drive it and test it. But seeing i have to take out 1/2 the rear to install my 1 piece exhaust i mise well do it all at the same time. Maybe ill take her up the road open headers and feel what its like to have no vibration

 

Correct, The third line is for the evap canister.

 

How did you have the fuel set up on the Firebird?

You need a return line with the electric pumps if I am not mistaken, since your carb needs what, 5-8 psi?
Is your regulator a return type?

 

The firebird had all fuel lines on the driver side frame rail. Camaro is split up. Wondering if it would be easier if i put the regulator in the back of the car also....Whats your thoughts. Its gonna be a real PITA having it under the hood with the lines split up

 

Feed and return are the two lines that are together. The third line is now effectively a vent. My regulator is on the end of my fuel rail, but I was just gonna put it on the drivers side firewall where the lines come up. Having it on the fuel rail just meant I had to make one less hose.

 

Sure is nice to have the regulator and gauge together under the hood.My first thought is your better off having the regulator as close to the induction as possible to work correctly.I am thinking the length of the return line and the pressure it is regulates matters when the regulator is at the tank.

 

I agree with the others, just bring it undder the hood. Why would it be a pita to have two lines from the engine? You can do all your under hood lines in rubber, very simple.

 

Ok after looking at the post before reading here i realized i only needed the return line and main line, which are together like you guys are saying. For some reason i thought the return was the vaccum on the passenger side. Anywho

Trans is mounted, Fuel pump is marked and ready for install with correct fittings, though am going to do this when the rear is out of he car. I will be starting the rear tomorrow after work and do what i can each day.

Today i ran all of my relay wires and switch wires for the fans and made it neat, unlike the firebird. The AC box is ripped out, i need to clean the delete box and paint it before mounting the msd and coil on it then thats ready. I have to order a blower motor for it though. Also got rid of a nice chunk of wiring and shoved into the fender Slowly but surely its getting there. I have had little help to do all of this so its slowing me down. I did however replace the oil pan gasket ( sucks solo btw ), and the rear main seal while the motor was out. Had to replace my Earls header gaskets, worse gasket i have ever used BTW!. And that ticking noise that i thought was a rocker, well ya, you guys were right, Lost an arp header bolt on the back passenger side header

 

And yes, i have to paint the firewall so dont mention it!

 

Nice.

 

This things lookin good dude. Time to get it started back up and take it to the strip so you can tell me and gbay why we shouldn't have bothered playing around with this silly EFI crap!

 

Lol.

It does look good, cant wait to see it on the road/strip.

 

HAHA, i just posted in his saying you should have went carb lol.

Tomorrow am starting the rear swap + exhaust swap, i have all my fuel system bought, Ill be ready to install that and the exhaust once the rear is out. I over tightened my exhaust clamps because i didnt find out about the nice ones they sell until it was too late, so i cant take it apart. This means i cant go for a quick spin without doing the rear swap first

Only thing left to do is

1) mount regulator, electric fuel pump, carb
2) Rear + rear suspension
3) Mount a/c delete box ( its ready )
4) Hook up my MSD system and carb

If i had a helper who knew what he was doing then 1 day easy. But i think am left with the wife helping me place the rear in lol If i can get the bolts undone on the acmaro easely the rear should be a cake walk.

After the rolling race with the shelby with me being at the bottom of second gear and spinning, i dont think ill have any problems running good numbers. Am going to run it with tires ( have already ) untuned, then run it tuned later to see the difference

I do wish you guys luck though, am sure you will figure it out

 

Good stuff, you should be rolling very soon. Think 2 more weekends?
Still have some season left!

I raced my brothers Shelby, he had Nittos on but butchered his launch, I took him by 3-4 cars off the line while he chugged it out, lol, he caught me hard on the top, wizzed by at the 1315' mark ( no lie). On an even start I think it would be close to about 500ft, than he would smoke me. He clocked 111, versus my 104.

His best, with a very easy launch and over inflated tires was 13.2 @ 111. Once he figures out his ideal pressure and launches hard, he should be 12.8-12.9. His 0-60 are bad.... 1.9.

If you can beat a Shelby with no traction, your doing pretty good

 

What year does he have? I ran the 2011, Motor trend has them doing 11.7ish at 115

 

His is an 09', not sue what they run stock, but it seems that some with tires can break 12.5's. Do the 2011'srun that quick? I thought they were marginally quicker than the last version.
Thats a fast production car!

I want the 2012 ZL1 Camaro!

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GZH0f8J810
theres a video for a stock one on the dyno. I think there was a huge difference between 2009 and 2011. Am chevy all the way, but i give respect when its due. And i respect the 2011 Mustangs, GT and the Shelby.

New camaro, ya its cool there finally making one to compete with the Shelby etc, but the car is too damn big. And i think the price tag was at 60k or so? Id rather have a family sedan over that camaro, New CTS-V for that price range with the LS9

Dont say the corvette is made to compete with the shelby, i put the ZR1 in a supercar category now lol If i was only rich, id take that ZR1 over and lambo or ferrari

 

60k for a Camaro is crazy.
I do like the stangs, nice cars, fun and quick. )Es, the Vette is king. My friend had a ZO6, wow ,fun!

 

It is looking good. I look forward to seeing what you run in the quarter.

Can't wait to have my engine in my car some day. Hate waiting. Working on all sorts of little things for the swap, as we speak.

I like fuel injection but carbs work well, too. And heck yeah I'd love to have a new ZR1.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fiber...item519ade1326

Ok i want this hood, but smaller. Keep your eyes open

 

So update. Camaro rear is out. Had to call in re-enforcements to get 1 bolt out of the driver side LCA. I just didnt have enough *** to put in it lol.

Tomorrow ill mount my Electric Fuel pump and get the lines straightened out, And start the firebirds rear. Firebird should go alot quicker seeing the bolts have the anti seize crap on them.

So if weather permitting, i should have everything done by mid day saturday, plenty of time for track time come wensday Wish me luck!

 

Just watched the video, 470 ! My brothers 09 puts down 440 (stock)

 

I am not a big fan of the dual scoops, one is enough for me!
A nice 3 inch cowl looks good on the Iroc!

Imo, of course.

 

So any of you know the differece in weight from the Bolt on fiberglass and the pin on? My firbirds pin on has to weigh 15-20 pounds the most. Are the harwood fiberglass weigh that much ( bolt on Conversion ). After looking at the fenders from me putting them on and off by myself i cant see doing that to a nicer car.meaning the pin on

 

It used to be that there where race glass parts and street ones.The street ones where heavier and the race ones needed attention due to over time stress cracks.

BTW-don't think there are any true bolt on glass parts that in some way or another needs some trimming.Especially in the race glass parts.But it has been a long time since we have been in a door car.

 

I just know the car needs a diet. And its hard to work on it will a pin on hood.



making head way. sucked taking the exhaust out as a whole. Am glad it went in the camaro ALOT easier then it coming out of the bird.



Amazing how quick i got this rear out. Its nice to have that never sieze on the bolts lol I am 1 day behind due to rain all day yesterday. I do believe though if i work fast tomorrow I might hear her fire up. But to play it safe i will say sunday lol


And yes if you look closely, You will notice a beer bottle at both cars. Its not the same bottle. Am doing double the work so i need double the brew :P

 

How convenient, one at each location!

Do the neighbors give you any flak for working on the street. Is the exhaust going onto the Camaro? If so, put a couple connections in it.

 

Nope, i live on the dead end side of my street out of 7 houses. Am cool with both of my nieghbors, one is a mechanic, and the other a school teacher. So i get along with one, and the wife talks to the other one alot. Am just lucky because across the street is a high school and a police station. Noone has said anything to me yet. Also my landlord is in portugal for 6 months so am good there too lol


As far as the exhaust, i already put it under the car, just need to bolt it up. I didnt have any connections on it when it was under the firebird, Just the back 2 connections over the rear and driver side tailpipe. She didnt budge and was about 1/8inch from the driveshaft. As of now i have a homemade make shift tailpipe thats bent 90 degrees. Once the car is driveable ill bring it to an exhaust shop to get a tailpipe bent and proper hangers. I had it up with chicken wire in the rear but whatever works! lol

 

Yes, what ever works for now because time is running out. All the little things can be done later. You'll have it running soon, looking forward to it.

 

Not all that happy about the MSD box, But it wouldnt fit anywhere else with me using the hole for the heater switch thingy. Its secure, and looks so so. Works for now. Is the msd coil ok in that location being by the header. Probably has 1-1.5 inches of clearance. Maybe fab a metal shield under it?


Accomplished the rear end swap today, mounted fuel pump and regulator. All hoses are cut to size, just need to fasten everything. Dont think the hood scoop is going to clear my air cleaner, i have to fix the front latch, something happened recently and now its not working ( but it used to ). This is not the greatest pic, it got dark, ill post tomorrow when i finish everything up.


My transmission 4 prong plug is too short, unless i take everything apart to make it longer can i just splice the wires? Thoughts? am gonna have to remove the ac delete box, distributor, hoses, etc to get the wiring out of the harness wherever previous owner taped it too

 

Just splice the harness with a good connection ( no crappy butt connectors).
I would shield the coil if it was mine, those headers get uber hot!

 

Ill get a better pic tomorrow, but those wire are under the coil and still have clearance. Think its safe for the mean time to drive? I like using those connectors that you heat up and they melt the plastic to the wire.

 

You'll have to use your better judgement on the coil and wires there. They look close to me, but I have moved a few things away from my headers because of the intense heat.

You mean heat shrink tubing?
What I do is;
strip 1+ inch of wire from both, twist from the middle point so it stays flat, a bit of solder , than heat shrink tubing. It's a fail safe method I have used forever.

 

You're moving right along! Hope you can post a video of your startup.

 

Well i did something right, and of course i did something wrong.....Everything is hooked up besides the shifter linkage ( need to find a bolt ), and the exhaust.

The good:
-Fired right up 1 crank, smooth as can be

The bad:
- I stripped the bottom radiator transmission line, I tried to fix but its past that point. So i guess my only option now is to buy a small trans cooler and pray i have enough room to atleast run it vertically on the front of the trans next to my secondary fan. Figured this would be the cheapest option
- Secondary fan has no power, not sure if the main fan has power as the car wasnt running that long. So need to investigate
- Used the regulator that came with the Fuel pump, Lowest i can get it to is 8 pounds. I switched my autometer FPG to a little Mr Gaskets that just screws on the rail, I might hook up my autometer just too see if it reads the same. Not sure if i can get away with 8 pounds or not, herd 7 which is where the firebird sat.

Am uploading a video, there was no sound on the phone, but if i can get sound on the comp ill show you