initial timing at 10*. Sound right? seems to run fine, just a tad dieseling at shutoff sometimes, not always, and it doesnt last long.

heating issue seems to be ok while idling, driving is a different story. So questtion is this.

Am going to be fabricating an air dam piece tomorrow out of sheet metal. Can someone post a picture of theres for me so i can see the angles of it?

 

Here's a couple photos, wont be able to see the angles because it is flimsy! More or less... it follows the shape of the nose, but if you look under the car you will see where it bolts to , just follow that.
Mine is 3.5" tall at the tip/nose, tapers very slightly to 3.25" at the outside edges, you should be okay keeping it constant I think.\

Try back off the timing until no dieseling, not sure but 6-8 degrees may be better. See what it does!

 

What plugs are you using? They may be too hot for this motor and need a colder plug

 

My car doesn't have that piece. I thought everybody was referring to the plastic piece directly underneath the radiator support? I'll try to get some pics of how my car is configured.

 

In the first two pics you can see the dam I was talking about, in the last pic, the dam is the "bright" part, you can see my radiator, and on the other edge is the other ductwork that funnels air into the radiator. The dam directly underneath the radiator creates a high pressure spot in front of it that forces air up into the radiator.

 

thanks for the picture and measurements guys.

Spark plug i believe were the autolite 3895 or 3845...cant remember. I believe it was the 95 tho

 

Look at this read here, Orr has a very valid point in checking the heat range of the plugs.
http://www.tuningmadeeasy.com/tips/spark-plug-reading/

 

I have wrong rotation water pump. I ordered a reverse rotation pump from advance. Well I took back plate off and its spinning clockwise. So when I went to advance and gave the another gm pump number starting with 888 is cross referenced to the pump I have. Gm p# 1301820 gmb.

So now am at a loss....they have a few in stock but they all reference to the number I have...anyone have a clue of a gm water pump for serpentine system

 

Wrong pump will do it! Are you sure of the direction you need? I dont know what it is for serp/v belt, but regardless, 87 and older will give you the v-belt style and 88 up should give you the right one.

Are you sure the belt is set up correctly?

 

No matter which way the belts go on the smooth part will be over the water pump pulley not the grooves. I am possitive I ordered a 92 camaro long neck water pump. The part number for that pump cross references the pump I have. But the fins in the back of the pump are spinning toward the bottom hose so the cloolant is fighting itself...

 

I don't think the actual pump rotation makes a difference, I think its the shape of the impeller that determines the flow.

 

Your right. Reverse rotation the impellars are reversed. I lucked out and a buddy had a 89 K5 blazer that he rolled alittle while back. It has a clutch fan on it but is for a reverse rotatating pump. Ill see if the store has it available, if not ill use it and should have zero problems. Will keep ya updated

On a good note my air dam fabrication is almost complete. You guys will laugh at this one lol..ill post my ghetto conjunction tomorrow

 

Ok need input.

Tv cable is adjusted where it now will shift out of first around 2700. At one point it didn't shift at all. I've read and read on how to adjust it but something is not right. For starters, b@m shifter is locked all the way down and will still shift to second. While cruising the trans will not kick down...

Update:

Changed my water pump today and am seeing progress. Driving alittle around town she only reached 190ish, at idle she comes down slowly if at all. I took her on the highway after my ghetto air dam ( its beautiful :P ). I thought being on the highway would have been bad with the 4:11's. I was quite amazed at 65 she was only spinning 2700ish. Temp stayed at 185-190. Right after i got off the highway and sat at a light she crept up to 205. Am starting to think that the fans i have might not be good enough. Either that or maybe thermostat is bad? i have a 160 in it now. Am almost at the point where i might try a clutch fan, although i would like that to be the last option. Whats your guys opinion

 

On the heating issue.. I would say stay electric fan, can't see a clutch fan pushing more than those electrics you have, clutches also sound like crap! imo of course!
That engine should run half cool on stock equipment, dont know why your having issues. Have you looked at the heat range of the plugs like Orr mentioned? how is the flow through the rad, you holding pressure, and all the other obvious things?

What tranny and or mods did you use? Did you have it running in the car before the mods? If i am not mistaken, stock trans will shift out of first at a set (high) rpm no matter if you dropped it down manually or not. Depending on the tranny/shift kit.... it may still behave this way. I would say try the stock shifter first and go from there.
Your transmision should act normal, or at least civil at light throttle, ie: shift early at part throttle, lock up , and shift out cleanly and quickly to top gear. I know you have read up on the set up for t.v cable, but I hope you are certain on the setting, since damage can occur if its not set properly.
Problem with complete builds.... its hard to pin point issues when everything is new or changed, I am worried about my own build

Sometimes you have to take a few steps back, regroup, look at the obvious, and go from there.

 

transmission specs: had about 500 miles on it when i bought it

- Custom shift kit, Fairbanks "Billet" 2 nd servo, Sonnax "Super Hold" 4th servo, .490" Sonnax pressure regulator boost valve, Alto "Wide" Red Lined 2-4 band, 7 Raybestos "Blue" 3-4 frictions, "Kolene" friction coated 3-4 steels, Sonnax "High RPM" pump slide spring, "The Beast" H/D sun shell, New Borg-Warner 29 element input sprag, Sonnax "full throttle upshift sleeve", 4L65E front support, 4L65E hardened output shaft, and updated steel piston set for the input drum. Recommended for car's hitting sub 1.7 60' times.

- 3000 non lockup stall. I dont have the stock shifter as i junked it when i ripped the interior out.

- Spark plug are autolite 3935. As am not certain on spark plugs should i change these out?

- Radiator pressure: I had the cap off while it was started and it looks like theres plenty of flow through the radiator. Pumping from driver side to passenger side.

- I adjusted the tv cable like everyone said to. Push plunger all the way in, then mash the pedal. This didnt work in my case. So i took it out driving around the block stopping every 30 yards or so and adjusted it 1 click at a time untill i thought it started shifting properly

 

So couple options. Either ar3910 plug or ar3933 plug. The 33 is 2 steps colder then the 35 and is used for 150 shot. Think I could use it? Reading all these different plugs I have no clue. I did find a chart over at ls1tech on the heat ranges though

 

I'm not familar with the autolite plugs but if you lookup a stock plug for a L98 vette, what is the heat range? take that number and go atleast 1 step colder and probably 2 would be a great place to be with .035-.040 gap for all motor. .030" for nitrous worked well for me.

 

Even though reccommended gap for msd is .048?

 

You can try that, I always ran abit tighter when working with higher compression motors and higher rpms. .040" is a good starting point.

 

Defenitely work with the plugs like Orr recommends.
I don't know why I said pressure... It does nothing to reduce heat, only raises boiling point! Good flow is important, so you have that. Make sure the stat is working good and is not upside down!
You have a beefy trans. Do you know what it came out of? Reason I ask is because I am sure govenors changed from car to car, car to truck. It would be good to know the original app.

 

Trans came out of a corvette, not sure the gear ratio. All i know is he had it built and drove it 500 miles and said it was too aggressive for his application, he wanted a more street friendly trans.

Oh and i adjusted the throttle cable again today. I think i unleashed a monster lol Power i had not previously felt Only thing i can say is it likes to brake tires free at a 45 roll in third. I cant wait untill the bugs are out and she goes on a dyno.

3 things left to do.

1) plugs and heat issue
2) bad vibration between 2k-2500 while cruising
3) charging system

Drove it this morning for about 4 miles when i noticed my tach jumping like crazy then die. Shortly after that i noticed fuel pressure dropped from 7 to 4 psi. I turned the car off immediatly too find out the battery is completely dead..... new alternaor, new optimum red top 720 CCA.....am getting very fustrated!!!!!!

 

I guess you just have an aggressive transmission, nice to see you pulled some of those ponies out of that engine!

Your charging issue is strange too, have you checked for voltage at the alt? All your grounds good and tight?

Is your vibration rpm related or speed? try the same speed in different gears and same rpm in different gears, That will tell you alot.

 

Its definitely rpm related. I need to search the 96 tahoe block some more I think. The eagle kit I ordered was internally balanced. I used the flexplate and starter from the truck. Also, am not proud of it but the torque converter bolts are not the correct size. They go in tight but there's very little play with them. I used nuts on them, they were extremely tight, just not sure if that could cause the vibration or not.

Am not sure if I like the torque convertor either. Something seems weird to me, when I mash it the rpms are instantly at 5 or 6. My seat twist and am pinned in it but it just doesn't seem right. I wish I had a friend around that has the knowledge that u guys have lol

I checked the grounds on the alternator, starter, and the heads. The alternator is strong...am wondering if the fuse box is wacky if it would drain the battery. I had it spark on me once, and some of the accessories don't have any power.....

 

I believe all sbc during the 80-90's where external balance. Having a external weighted flexplate on internally balanced engine is not good, and, that would cause vibes because of the offset weight on the flexplate. Get the proper plate and bolts and get back under there. A bad torque converter can also vibrate.
Your stall is about 3000 correct? What make?

 

From what I just read all sbc 350's are internal balance except for the sbc 400. So I believe am ok with the flexplate.

Stall supposably is 3000, no clue who made it. And I bought 5 different bolts and none of them worked. I might go searching for a used stall so I can have one and know the specs. Can't afford a new one atm seeing I have a cruise to go on next month : )

 

You need to contact your crank manufacturer to be certain of your balance requirements. Remember a 383 is a 400 crank in a 350 block. mine is internal front, external rear, using a stock 350 counterbalance 153 tooth flexplate and a neutral balance harmonic balancer.

 

Old days were 350 with 400 crank. Eagle, scat etc make 3.750 cranks internal balance now. No need to have a 400 crank anymore.

If it was unbalanced wouldn't it have a bad vibration at any rpm range?

 

heres a short clip of 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Nothing special but you get somewhat of an idea. 1st to second chirp was light throttle

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ti708HYLOrY

and heres an idle clip, you cant see it but my makeshift tailpipe is also ghetto. We tried bending 3 inch pipe with 2 torches but was very unsuccessfull lol so it comes out about 3 inches then goes to a 90 degree bend, cut right before the bumber with an angle at the end. it does have a slight leak on the tailpipe

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=maccMzIIWfE

notice the windshield crack.....that was about 1/2 inch before the motor fired up. now it comes up 10 inches and loops around

 

Exactly, that's why you have to pay attention to how the manufacturer does things. I would guess you need a weighted flexplate, and a nuetral balance harmonic balancer, like mine is. I'm not sure on how the unbalance would manifest itself though.

 

optimum battery i bought is completely dead and not taking a charge....just my luck

 

What are the chances? lol.

Like Gunmetal said, look into the manufacture specs on your crank. Most are internal front, external back, but you are right in that some can also be internal front and back.

Saw the video! She's starting to wake up

 

Heres my list

rotating assembly
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ESP-B13056L030/

harmonic balancer
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATI-917781/

According to eagle themselves internal balance is both front and back. External is both front and back, not both. Flexplate am using does not have any counter weights on it


So with that out of the question, maybe i have bad u joints in the driveshaft? Am going to get the car back home in new jersey so i dont have to wait every 2 weeks to work on it 1 day at a time. Its time to ge this thing done already!

 

Just got a chance to watch the videos finally. I'm liking the way it sounds going down the road! I can't wait to hear that coming from my car.

That vibration could be any number of things then. Was it sitting on any flat tires for a while? Could it be due to alignment? Or just unbalanced tires from the previous owner? And yes, u-joints could do it too. Do you get any noise from them when you force a downshift, or let off the gas and coast?

 

tires are old, dry rotted, and shot. Alighnment is good. But i dont think it has anything to do with the tires or alighnment, its only bad around 2200.

When i coast to a stop during those downshifts its fine. The car doesnt downshift on its own though ( dont know why ), the tv cable seems to be set good. If am doing 45 with no gas at all theres no vibration

 

You mentioned that your bolts to the flex plate were a little off size? Perhaps that can be causing the vibe? I would look for the correct size bolts.

You mean when you tromp on it, it wont shift down? That would tell me the T.V cable is not set correctly, I know you checked it many times though!

 

flexplate bolts are correct, and torqued properly. Its the bolts that are for the torque convertor that were a hair off. When i put them in, there was alittle play while they were half way in, once they were fully seated there wasnt any play, i just needed a nut at the end of them to tighten um.

My tv cable is not the best looking cable. I need to get a new one. Does anyone know if theres different sizes? Iv'e read that some aftermarket ones are junk. Not sure where i should order it from or what brand?

 

i dony see 500 hp with that combo are u gonna dyno it?

 

He might not get all 500 to the wheels, but he's definitely got it at the crank. Regardless, I don't think he's disappointed with the power it's making

 

Gbay made 520ish on his with a smaller cam, and an unknown holley. Am pretty sure Ill match it with no problems. I have a bigger cam, and using a better carb. Heres his build
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...383-tpi-6.html

When i get the kinks out and put some mileage on it, it will goto the dyno for a proper tune and numbers.

This is true, never said i wanted 500 to the wheels, Although i will manage that when i put a shot on it

For some comparison, i drove an 03 cobra with full exhaust. I know my car pulls ALOT harder then that cobra did. But even if i dont reach my goals, which am pretty sure i exceeded, none the less i have a huge grin on my face when am driving it

 

Where can I find a 3inch single tailpipe that looks stock? I must be blind....I tried mufflex but seeing they don't like to respond to email they wont get my business

 

Hawks has a few options for exhaust. Have you checked their site?

 

All catback might need to have meneiki or someone bend a 3 inch pipe for me. Kinda suck no one sells just a stock looking 3 inch single tailpipe

 

Why not go one in and two tail pipes?

 

My exhaust is already done. Bought single in single out magnaflow. Prefer not to have 2 tailpipes as its not dual exhaust. The fake dual exhaust look just isnt my thing

Thats why i want to go with a stock looking 3 inch pipe hidden. Just like stock look but tucked under alittle more.


Those videos i put up already had the exhaust done with the makeshift tailpipe. I took a 3 inch pipe, cut 1/2 the pipe, bent it over so its a complete 90 degree and using that for now.

 

I feel ya on the single exhaust. Mines gonna be single 3.5 all the way back, tucked up under the rear bumper with a 45* turndown

 

Ok so the car didnt make it back home yet next weekend. So i was thinking! should i have a present waiting for it when it arrives????

Opinions please. Will it drastically change the heat issues compared to stock 1988 K5 Blazer water pump? Not gonna spend the money if its not worth it.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EMP-23123/

Was also debating if it would be better going from 160 stat to a 180? maybe coolant is not in the radiator long enough....

 

I think you can benefit from it.
Or you can try the cheap 180* thermo, and than the pump if need be.

 

If I still have my stewart stage 2 pump, you can try it. I'll sell it for 50 bucks. Only 1600 miles on it, its painted red tho. Needs recoated...probably just use paint stripper and powerwasher to stripe it clean and recoat it with whatever paint you want. EDIT: I may not have this, trying to confirm. I may have gave it to my buddy

I dont think hotter T-stat is gonna help. Really doesnt matter how long the coolant is in the rad, because longer you keep it in the rad, longer it stays in the motor too. So it comes out the motor hotter than before and water comes into the motor from rad colder than before. Net effect is just the same. If your still overheating and its not the engine tune, then you should look at the cooling fans and radiator size.

 

Did you ever find out if you have it still?

I was talking to my friend yesterday about his girlfriends 88 chevy 1500 truck. Apperently the belt tensioner was bad and it read low volts. He put a new one on and the truck ran cooler and had alot more volts. This has me thinking because my tensioner is bad. It almost sounds like a roller rocker tapping on the valve covers ( inner springs are rattling ). At the moment i have a spring from the tensioner to the alternator to keep pressure on it for the noise. Am wondering if my whole battery draining and overheating could be caused by this tensioner! Once i get the the car its getting swapped ASAP. My fingers are crossed

 

Wouldn't that be nice!