we did test with some boat engines..and i tell u they do boost the octane...not much, but they do !!!!!

 

So i was brainstorming today and came up with a fantastic idea! Seeing my whole interior is stripped out of the car right now and sitting in the garage, why not get a rollbar installed. Seeing am going to need a cage after i shoot it with 175 shot, what cage do i need, and whats the cost range on it? After typing that i checked hawks page, his 8 point rollbars good?

uggh the list doesnt stop does it lol
whats left to do:
-rollcage
-subframe connectors
-full suspension
-wheels
-converter
-radiator and fans
-12 bolt

Why didnt someone tell me you gotta pay to play before i started this??? fun times

 

Why didnt someone tell me you gotta pay to play before i started this??? fun times[/quote]


because nobody told us either..lol

 

lol good call, i posted the rollbar before i started searching and reading post, Seems to me its alot easier to just hit the brakes at the 1000ft mark lol what am i getting myself into

 

Orr89Rocz is right with a great cyl head and the right cam you can run plenty of compression these days and get away with it on premium gas.
Technology rocks.

 

Ok so i got a quote today for a 6 point rollbar, Everything gets measured and bent at his shop, $1300. Good price or no? He said he charges his customers around $2100 but seeing am a friend of a friend and my friend brings him alot of business he will cut me some slack, and also thats not taking interior out or putting it back in, which saves him some time and me some money

If i decide this then the interior is on hold, and i will only be bolting a driver seat in the car untill a month or two before i have the bars put in. Wifey wants a baby and i need something in the saving before i jump on this (and her)

comments, suggestions, always appreciated

 

I think its a good price , depends on what mat he will use and how it will look after ..lol

 

I think thats way over priced. Most shops should be 100 bucks a point or 600 for 6pt bar. Mild steel, not chromoly.

You can buy a 300 dollar competition engineering kit and have it installed for 300. Thats what I did.

 

So you saying if i buy hawks third gen 6 point bar for $200 i should be able to find someone to install for $300ish? If thats the case ill jump all over it.

I should be getting a call that the motors completed this week, just waiting on the pushrods to come in. My engine builder has very high hopes of the power. Am excited

 

I would think so. thats what two local shops charge around me.

 

DONT FORGET HE IS IN JERSEY !!!!!!!...thats where they pay u in brown paper bags..lol

 

LOL, ill try to get a quote in upstate ny, should be cheaper

 

I got a voicemail from the builder last night, didnt sound good. All i got was give me a call back when you can, not a your motors done. Hoping its something simple like the oil pan you wanted to reuse will not clear the crank.

I shouldnt have a problem with the balancer right? i bought a 8 inch ATI, not really knowing the difference in sizes untill afterwords. I guess the smaller the faster revving? or other way around?

 

Wouldnt worry about weight, youll never notice it. As long as it dampens any harmonics its doing its job. Rods touching pan can be common easily fixed, you gotta mock these up and spin them to double check before finally assembly depending on the parts used your results can vary. Be patient.

 

Well I got off the phone with him alittle while ago. I ordered the wrong gasket kit. Ordered the wrong timing chain and don't have head bolts.I swore I got the one piece but guess not. Also timing chain is for older blocks. Swore I got a one piece. So this is delaying me another week now grrrr. He has head bolts so atleast he can measure the rods. Guess it gives me time to clean garage out for for the installation

 

uhhhhh huuuhhh...

 

U are soooo smart, why dont u tell us what burns a hole in a piston and how so ??????!!!!!!

 

am getting antsy (if thats how you spell it), hopefully ill have pics of a dressed up motor for you guys soon.

On a good note, mechanic said he will weld in the rollbar if i pick it up. Suggestions of what company or brand you guys went with. Only need a 6 point.

 

Update:

Just met my mechanic for the first time today, great guy, has a sweet garage off his big *** house. I forgot to give him the tray for the lifters and the retainers. I just found them today, dropped them off. The new timing chain will arrive Monday, he went with a colye ( think thats the spelling). Head Bolts and performance gaskets came in already, $100 for the arp head bolts .

Orr i took your advice on porting the intake. So while he's waiting on the timing chain thats going to be done. Said it should take him 2.5 hrs. So seeing the timing chain is missing were at a stand still. Am getting the serpentine brackets sand blasted while i wait that i bought used. Thats about it.

Cleaned out the heated garage for the car, not going to be working on it in 15 degree weather, damn thing was suppose to be done in the summer. So motor should be done mid next week

p.s
i thought i bought a 8inch balancer, apperently its a 6 1/4 or 6 3/8. Good thoughts or bad?

 

Balancer shouldnt matter as long as you have an accurate pointer to set timing.

Use a degree kit with tool in the spark plug hole to find TDC and verify how it lines up on the balancer.

 

All greek to me orr. Mechanic will have that all setup for me. When am ready to fire it up ill have him with me. Just remember you guys telling me smaller balancers rev faster. I would think that's what I would want, just hoping to get responses as it was a good choice lol.

 

The main thing is to have the correct balancer not also not a cheapo one...

harmonics can ruin every engine !!!!!!!

 

Ati. Damn thing cost me 350. Didn't go cheap bit didn't spend alot either I guess. Too me nothing on the motor was cheap. But then again I looked at jesel rockers that cost damn near 1k for a set lol

 

Lol, nothing good is cheap! looking forward to see how your build turns out!

 

whenever the damn timing chain comes in it will only take a few hours, i had a gear set on hand but everyone talked me out of it. Just a waiting game now

 

So I got the exhaust off today, removed the torque arm, removed the driveshaft and took the car off the jacks and put it in the garage. Was amazed how much the front end sits without the engine.

Talked to the mechanic, timing chain finally came in, he's porting the intake then assembling everything. Hopefully next week I can finally get the motor back.

Now let's talk about torque arms. What's my best route to go? I need it compatible with a 10 bolt and a mosers 12 bolt if possible. Also don't want it connected to the trans. If I can't swap between the 2 rears then I guess am waiting untill next year to get one.

 

a torque arm that fits a 10 bolt should fit the 12 bolt from either supplier out there (strange/moser). A 9" from strange or moser or someone else would need a different set of mounting holes due to the size of the casing. Spohn TQ arms have 2 sets of holes drilled where the arm mounts to the rear. 1 set is for 12 bolts/10bolts, and other is for 9". Other vendors should have the same. I think everyone now offers a crossmember mounted version over trans mounted

 

can i get away with a standard duty spohn crossmember mount?

 

Quick question, I am relocating my battery to my trunk how hard of a process is this? Im cutting out my battery trays for the cold air intake. Also should have more pics of the motor tomorrow : )

 

Its easy. Just need to figure out how you want to run the cutoff switch if you are going to use one (required for track runs)

I put mine on the rear frame rail half way in where the spare tire well is. Bolted the box to the floor pan by welding nuts to the trunk floor. Ran a 0 gauge wire I think to the front. Grounded the engine to the front frame and then the battery to the rear floor pan on clean metal. Seems to work ok but some recommend running a ground from battery neg to the motor like stock.

 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

Sorry for huge pictures, My main comp blew up and i forgot what i used to upload my other pictures.

2 parts left which should have came in today. The timing pointer, and the arp valve cover bolts were too small. The thickness on AFR valve covers are pretty thick, so am buying the T handle bolts. I should be getting a call tomorrow to say come pick it up

Orr i found that 0 gauge wire you were talking about, thats one thick wire man lol thats not overkill? unless its not 0 gauge but what i have on hand is way thicker then the thickest extension cord ive seen lol I also found what seems to be same thickness wire thats already in the car.

I need header gaskets, what to use. Am 0-1 when it comes to buying gaskets lol

 

Wow. she looks so pretty!
When are you dropping it in? Cant wait to hear it run.
What did you do for a trans/ converter?

 

Cahle performance 700r4 biuilt for 800hp, sub 1.5 60ft. 3k non lockup converter. Depending how it performs makes or breaks my decision to either buy a higher stall w/lockup or a T-56

The motor should be dropped in at the end of the month, buying the radiator fans and the y pipe next month, I hope it will be on the road by march

 

Trying to figure out what kit I had. I think my kit used 1-gauge wire and yes its a FAT wire. I ran 4 gauge from alternator back to the box but I also included a quick disconnect switch in the taillight.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/orga...ff-switch.html

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1231-K/?rtype=10

 

hey man not to jack your thread but i see you are swapping from a 2.8 v6 and im doing a similar swap right now with a 377 i was just wondering what u are doing for the ignition system? im planing on msd 6al and dist. I was just wondering what all wires you are keeping from the factory harness for the charging system and ignition??

 

As far as the wiring i have no clue yet, am not that far. I also bought the msd ignition kit, minus the box, ill put the box in after everything is set and done and the NOS goes in

thanks for the link orr, thats everything i need to relocate?

 

Thats kinda it. That will relocate the battery to the trunk. Run the vent line to the spare tire well and out the factory drain hole and then run the large feed line up under the carpet to the motor/starter. Ground the battery to the trunk floor and use the factory head ground to the frame/body somewhere up front. Thats what I did.

OR you can buy a piece of 1-2 gauge wire and run the battery neg to the head as one direct line. The way I did it works tho

Then you need to buy a 4 gauge line to run the alternator back to the battery. I got that at home depot/lowes and bought some round terminals to attach to the bolts on the alternator and battery positive.

Thats all you need if you dont run a cut off switch. If you want a switch you will just need to buy a switch, splice inline with the 1 gauge wire.

 

Pretty sure you are blowing 500 horses away with ease!

On another note, their is a guy in Sussex County that will buy and install the cage locally for $800 on a 6 point.

 

Thanks again orr, plenty of info for relocating i see, much appreciated

Am keeping my fingers crossed . Mechanic looked up some similiar combos and said they pushed out between 470-510fwhp. 470 is alittle low of where i wanted to be, but nothing the NOS wont fix i guess With all the help i got here on the boards i dont think ill be disappointed at the least.

As far as the guy in sussex, more info! Is that with interior gutted already, or taking it apart and putting it together? Whats the shops name? You know any good Exhaust shops in the area? Its either i buy dyno dons ypipe or get a custom one made

 

As far as I know on a smaller cam with a lower compression on those heads they are getting 500 horse out of professionally tuned 383's.

I don't know if that's with interior in or out, I talked to him very briefly. Also their is only one exhaust shop around here and I do not have a clue how good he is. All the import boys use him, never seen a track car there though.



When/if you dyno the motor, please let me know. I am looking into building a 383 with the same heads this spring but I was going to run around 10:1 compression with a slightly smaller cam.

 

Just keep checking on this post. Should be road ready by march hopefully. I will be bringing it to krazy horse for the professional dyno tune when the motors broken in. Gonna try with and without the spacer on, nitrous runs will be later in the summer

 

Good news and Bad news.

Good news is.....
Motor is completely done

Bad news is......
My car is burried under 6ft of snow

 

Well thats what winter is for...motor builds. Need time off from driving. give it a few months it will be running before you know it

 

Agree Orr, but problem is i had the motor in the shop to get built by the end of the summer and fall. Now that its winter and the motors done, Am screwed till spring lol

I must have had my months confused when i started lol Looks like its time to get the shovel out Ill take more pics for everyone when i make it back to my car and pick the motor up. Just got nailed with 2ft of snow in jersey

 

lol, more to come too, winter is just starting by the looks of it!! Break out the shovel and start cleaning! At least the motors done.

 

was going through some pics, ive decided i will head up north and dig my car out and try and drop the motor in next weekend, will keep you all updated.

I think i've als decided i might not keep the bird. So am not going to do much with the engine bay to make it look all nice and clean. Am thinking by the end of the year i might buy a camaro and do the swap all over again

 

ok guys i need to finish ordering up some parts. Just ordered earls header gaskets, i hope there good
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-29D03BERL/... Please let me know what you think, and some opinions on the intake options.

- 2 electric fans, 1 mounted on the inside, and other mounted on opposite side as a pusher/puller.
http://store.gaugemagazine.com/zirgo...oolingfan.aspx

- 3 core aluminum radiator from champions on ebay. Seems everyone loves it, i contacted the guy 2 months ago and he said he has plenty in stock
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...guys-want.html

Now am stuck with intake options. If i relocate the battery as iv'e been thinking, id go with this
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SPE-711/?rtype=10

If not then something like this if i have the height with the carb spacer, if not then smaller thickness.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KNN-66-3100/

Now Opinions on these options please! What style would best fit my application for the intake, and the fans and radiator should be good right?

Note i have a 3inch cowl hood