i would take the spectre intake and run it to the fog light holes if you have t/a or if you have a maro get a iroc front bumper and run it to those fog light holes.

 

UPDATE:
picked the motor up yesterday, dug out my car ( that sucked ). Took more pics, and about to install the serp setup, pics to come soon.

 

Ut Oh i got issues....

whats my options when the passenger side bracket holes dont match the holes in the head for the screws? its off about 1/8 of an inch....alternator bracket went in perfect

 

1/8 inch off is kind of weird. Can't you open the hole up a bit? Your a brave sole being outdoors at this time of year. Lets seee some pics!

 

in mist of opening hole up in the bracket. heated garage pics will come soon after i get the front mounted

 

Lol, heated garage is nice
did you go with the aluminum rad you posted about the day?

 

Digging all that snow out sucked! But i came through and dug all that snow and ice out to free the car.

Got my bracket problem fixed and mounted. Am going to buy a new 1 wire Alternator, the alternator i have now is interfering with the valve covers. The MSD kit i bought was wrong. Its a plug and play kit, it wont plug into the MSD box that am going to need when the nitrouse goes in. So am returning that and ordering new distributor again,ignition, msd box and retard box, and wires. Also going to finish ordering the rest of my parts needed to finish the whole build.
Radiator, fans, air cleaner, fuel rails, cutout, Ypipe and magnaflow muffler. Sold the flowmaster muffler thank god :P

Almost there!

 

and yes am going with that radiator, ill let you know how it works

 

Orr I thought about what u said about the convertor and decided to replace now. What you recommend? Should I go bigger then 3k? If u could give me a few options that be great.

 

If it was my build, i'd go atleast 3600. I used that on my 383 and it worked out great for me. 60 fts were great but street manners were also pretty good. Controlling lockup in the ecm made it very driveable at low speeds and hill climbs so I didnt over heat the trans.

If I did it all over again, I would have gone 4000-4200 But I'm abit more drag race oriented. 3K will work fine as well and probably act alittle tighter down low giving you the perception of more torque. It will depend on the converter you get. Different diameters and stall torque ratios will change how the converter operates. A good custom setup to meet your performance and driving goals is what i'd recommend.

 

What company should I be calling?
called ati. They quoted me a 10 inch street master 3800 stall lockup custom built for 632$

 

There are alot of good companies out there. I ran Edge Converters and liked their unit for 550 shipped. I have one in my LS1 trans am too but it does feel alittle looser down low rpm for only 3200 stall speed. I was hoping it would be abit tighter feeling but it wasnt a custom unit, I think it was their shelf build for a stock LS1 car.

I got PTC (Performance Torque Converters) in my turbo car. First one they sent was too loose but I got it tightened up and it feels solid now. It was alot more money tho

I have heard Yank/Precision are good, Midwest is good, and Circle D is a newer one that seems to have a good track record. Call around and find what prices are offered and decide from there. I'd like a 9-10" design but I dont know too much about converters.

 

couple more things came in today. Trickflow throttle cable, fuel line, and ignition crap. Now that i ordered the correct things i can probably get to work next week. I'll order my retard box when its time for nitouse, but am holding off now to put towards the converter. Calling geof today to get my radiator ordered, and ordering the 2 zirgo fans today. After i kiss up to the wife, ill order my stall, then the build is done, thank god. Been over a year now almost.

 

Just ordered some LCA's, panhard bar, 2 16'' Zirgo fans (3,000cfm each) and a JG1 3inch aluminum driveshaft. I hope the driveshaft will last, if not i need to come up with a different plan of action lol. http://www.foundersperformance.com/p...nhard-Bar.html theres a thread with these being used by members and everyone loves them, so i figured id give it a try. Geoff is not getting back to me yet to order the radiator

Next weekend am hoping to set it in the car, if not then the following weekend. So tired of this build, cant wait till its done lol

 

kiss up to the wife, yes indeed, you must have a good one like mine!
how long do you think it will take to get it all together?

 

she is a good catch i told her months ago i needed just 3 more things, couple thousand dollars later am just finishing now lol No grief yet. She just reminded me today that i told her i would let her pick the paint out.... i dont remember that but, i dont have a leg to stand on hehe

Once am in NY and all parts are there, i estimate about 8hrs worth of work before she has her first breath. I have 4 senior mechanics to work with. Geoff just called me now, i ordered the 3 row radiator, $219 shipped

 

Sweet, can't wait to see it progress!
Which rad did you go with?

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...guys-want.html

Went with 3 core though, most of the links didnt work for me in the post but i have Geoff's number and email if your interested

 

Ok, you did go with that one. Nice price! I may end up needing one.

 

more presents came in today. There huge!

 

Your going to scare the crappers out of people when those things kick in!

Those Malboros look tasty! I miss smoking.....

 

more goodies

 

very nice quality parts, am very happy with Founders product

 

thats nice to hear, looks like others are happy as well.
Its nice getting good products in exchange for hard earned money, isn't it?

 

What are you doing for a rear?

 

right now i bought a 28 spline 10 bolt with richmond 4:11 gears for $500. The guy beefed up the rear alittle better then stock. It should hold up a few days longer then the stock 27 spline v6

If am not mistaken, the ford 9inch has something high like a 25-30% power loss, but is bullet proof. Am not sure what the 12 bolt power loss is, i havent researched the rear too much. But i might be going with a mosers 12 bolt after the 10 bolt decides to blow up.

I will not be going up to my car to put the motor in this weekend. There suppose to get over a ft of snow. I have a weeks vacation in 2 weeks so hopefully i can get her on the road in that time period.

 

a couple snap shots this weekend, ran into a few problems. Figured out the oil filter housing will not work from a pickup truck, tahoe, yatta yatta. They have built in oil cooler into the radiator and on top of that the oil filter is on a 45 degree angle. So i got one bak in jersey i can use and picked up. My 3inch aluminum driveshaft got delivered today. Also no stores in NY have 5/16 brake hose and 3/16, i needed to reroute the brake lines, and have 6ft of rotted fuel lines needed to be replaced. So ill pick them up tomorrow and head back to NY and friday back to work. Motor will be in and fired up sometime next week if i can find out what to do with a Y pipe.

I did however manage to install the motor mounts ( after 30 min figuring out there is a right and left mount lol ) Am hoping the shell that mounts to the motor is the same as a passenger car or am screwed. Forgot to check when i was up there. Changed all the fluid and filters on the trans, bolted to the motor, found out i lost all the convertor bolts, so need to locate them. Ripped out the ac and some wires not needed. Will put the ac delete box in this summer. Fabricated the radiator so it will fit. Its on an angle quite a bit so am waiting until the motor s in to see if its good or if i need to cut the bottom tray alittle.

Anyone encounter the balancer pully not being alighned with the pully under the alternator on a serp setup? It looks like its off about a 1/4 - 1/2 inch. Can i put spacers in there?

 

You're about three weeks ahead of me with your build . Lookin good so far!
I hope to have my 383 sitting in the engine bay in three weeks. But unlike you, I plan on keeping my engine in the same car for a long time, so I wanna do some work and detailing in the engine bay first.

I'm prolly gonna wind up in the same situation with motor mounts. How do you tell right from left? It would be nice to know before I figure it out the hard way!

 

Am guessing yours is a v6 also?

If you alighn the motor mount up to the K member and the holes is off by about 1/2 a bolt most likely it goes on the other side Only took me alittle while to figure this out seeing i had a few beers in me :P

I wanted to make the whole engine bay nice and shiny, take care of all the little rust patches also. Only problem is my heart is with a camaro. When am done with all the upgrades on this car ( 1-2 yrs ) ill look for a mint camaro and just swap parts over

 

[quote=LS4GXP;4847092]Am guessing yours is a v6 also?

Only took me alittle while to figure this out seeing i had a few beers in me :P

lol, Would have take you a day if you had none!!

 

LOL amen

 

Nope. Mine was a v8, just a 5.slow TPI.

So, procedure for making sure the motor mount brackets are on right:

1. Drink a few beers

2. Check for alignment

I think I can handle that. Step 2 may be a little more difficult

 

Motor mounts from a v6 to a v8 are 2 different locations. Seeing you already have an 8 in the car you just need to do step one and skip step 2

i only ran into this prob because i went from a v6 to a v8, another reason i had to relocate the brake lines. I always have to do the hard processess never the easy, this will be my second V6 to V8 swap, i cant just buy a v8 car and make life easy lol

 

Well heres an update:

The bad:

I dont know why or how but the dyno dons headers did not fit on the passenger side. It wasnt even close. Plenty of room on the drivers side but i had to
1) Notch the frame ( really not happy ) in 2 spots
2) dent the Primary to clear the frame after the notches
I used poly motor mounts, it brought the motor up, but like i said, it was not even close to fitting.
I cant seem to find a fitting for the 3/8 return line on the regulator, am going to have to drive 45 min to a store to pick one up.

The Good:

Motor is in, trans and driveshaft are in. When i found out the march crankshaft pulley was on backorder i had found one in a local junkyard. So this will save me some money. Removed the AC box and fabricated the heater box. Plugged the hole on firewall. I mounted my coil and msd box where the AC was, rewired 80% of the main harness. Fabricated the 2, 16'' Zirgo fans to the radiator.

So now i need to run the trans lines to radiator, fuel lines to carb after my quest for a fitting. Finish up alittle wiring, mount the radiator, hook up the guages, install the carb and linkage and i should be done.

Note to all, Tall valve covers do not work well with the AC box and wiper motor

 

Also problems I'm gonna run into. What did you do about the wiper motor interference?

I plan on getting rid of the A/C box, but I gotta have wipers! Could this also be caused by using the v6 motor mounts.

 

were the motor mounts in right? surprising that they didnt fit right

 

Nice to see you progress.
I am a little suspect and worried about the Dyno Dons headers! You think the mounts may have changed the height, what about the angle? That would cause more issues than anything else, cant see it, but who knows.

 

Just saying there is a left and right side to the motor mounts and if you reverse them, the motor would be offset alot and cause one side not to fit. i've done that before

 

 

i had to drill holes for the springs seeing they didnt send the correct part for it. this build is sucking bad

 

we got a mess!!!!

 

starting to clean up alittle



saved best for last, you can see where the collector weld hit the frame, also see where primary hit the frame and i had to dent it. where you guys see the dip stick there is actually a weld there on the primary. Not sure if this was a mistake or if all these headers are like that. None of the other primarys had welds in them exept this driver side one

 

The motor mounts are on correct, i actually had them switched and the bolt holes were off by 1/2 a bolt to the hole. Was impossible for me to put them on when they were switched.

As far as the wiper motor, all you need to do is remove the case, put the valve covers on, then remount the case. Theres enough clearance i think with good motor mounts that the covers wont hit it when motor twist.

Again with the header issue, I wont even mention how much i grinded off the frame rail, and how much i dented the header. But i can say this, am worried the frame will crack under stress. I have already planned for the worse. When this happens am going to get a 71 Nova that ive had my eye on. Tired of these cramped engine bays lol

 

I dont know why your headers are so close, I keep hearing about these headers fitting very well. There is even a newer review about how well they fit!
My Dyno Dons are sitting in the basement waiting for my swap, I looked and DO have the same weld on the primary pipe in the exact same spot, same header, same side ( passenger side).

What mounts did you use again?

 

I wouldn't be surprised if yours didn't fit good. Everything on my car is going bad. Am using poly energy solid motor mounts

 

I would be upset ( like you) if mine don't fit, i will know soon enough. How can some fit and others not? Aside from bad motor mounts, the only other reason would be badly built manifolds.
I wouldn't say your build is going bad! Its called hot rodding.....everything is difficult and painfull.

You'll be ripping around soon enough!

 

Can you show us a picture on how much header clearance there is on the drivers side?

 

What I ment gbay was I wouldn't be surprised if your fit nicely. You coulda mmiss read it.
Give me a moment ill post driver side

 

not sure how well this is going to work, some reason i cant blow these pics up like i did the others

 

seeing i cant figure out why these pictures wont blow up like the others, i can say the closest gap where it would hit the frame is about 1/4 inch or so. I had to move the brake line over a touch, nothing bad though.