well i just purchased a bryant crank and some carrillo rods for 500 bucks(one time only dad sale lol). i wanna get a motor together using these nice parts but not sure what heads or cam to use. its only going in my street car so it has to be able run pump gas. im running a turbo 400 tranny and 373 gears with a 9.5 bte convertor thats my setup to help with choices. it will be a full ruller motor so she revs fast. it will be put in a 350 block also and i will be getting forged pistons too.it will also be built to handle 8500 rpms. please help with a good choice i wanna get this together soon thanks

 

might want to put a price tag behind this post....

 

yea i no lol. I could get a 1000 for it no problem but i got such a good deal no use to sell cuz this is a GREAT start to a motor

 

how much you want to spend for heads/cam? what exhaust do you have and headers? intake? how much power you looking for? need info

 

i would like to keep keep it under 1800 for heads and a cam. the intake will probably be a victor jr cuz of my stall isnt super high as its only a 9.5 inch convertor. as for headers pretty much i can go with anything dad said he would help me out in that department if it was a reasonable price and mufflers with most likely be 40 series flowmasters if they flow good enough. whats your thoughts on 40 series? power as much as i can on pump gas. can always bottle it if not happy lol. thanks for your help ls4gxp

 

if the 1800 for heads and cam is seperate from the exhaust then i would look into AFR's #1040's. 195cc 64cc. Not sure what pistons your using, With my build it was around 11:1 compression with flat top +5cc pistons and runs good with 93 octane. Call up some cam dealerships and give them your specs, Motor, trans, gears, tire size, convertor and they will set you up with a good cam. I didnt like comp cams suggestion with mine, I went with mike jones custom grind and it went great.

I personally dont like flowmasters. I had them on all my other previous third gens. My build now i decided to switch to a magnaflow and love it. I've been missing out lol. Suppose to flow better also, and i can see why with the design.

AFR heads, custom grind cam, dyno don headers and Y pipe, 3 inch exhaust would be a nice build. Only down fall is dyno dons headers and Y, full 3 inch cat back is gonna cost you another 1000 or so. With a good motor build you cant skimp on the exhaust.

 

thanks for your help ls4gxp few questions tho. i thought 10.5 to 1 was the highest compression you could run on pump gas please enlighten me. and they will prolly be forged pistons is much as i no now the size of everything is different on byrant cranks to make them so light weight. also whats your final timing on your 383 with aluminum head should be about the same for me even tho mines only gunn equal to like a 362 i think. also wasnt sure if youve done the 4-7 swap i heard it balances out the motor but would like people who"ve done it experinces. thanks again for your help

 

4-7 swap?

Aluminum heads are more tolerant to run higher compression rather then iron. Iron heads i wouldnt run past 10.5 to 1 as pinging might occur unless your using very high octane. You can 1 compression more then iron heads with aluminum.

My timing is not dialed in yet. Still needs some tweeks. If you want i have a build thread here with awsome info in there from others.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...-383-swap.html

Right now my timing sits at 10 degree and 34 total. Like i said though, it might need more timing. I just havent got al the bugs out of it yet to bring to the dyno

 

should of been more specific the 4-7 swap in firing order i guess it helps balance it out so you dont have 5 and 7 firing one after the other which makes sens to me just would like experience with it done so the max you can run on aluminum heds is 11.5 on pump gas? also do you think 195 cc is enough up in the 7 to 8k rpm range? thanks again for your help

 

if you want to pull 7-8k grab the 210 or 220cc heads. With a good tune and a cam am sure you could get away with 11:5 with 93 octane.

 

alright thanks a lot again also do you think a rev kit is a good idea on that kind of setup? if you have experience with them. also great build thread was very informational i have a barry grant silver claw i think 750 mechanical sec. i think that should be enough to 8k right?

 

750 should be plenty for a 355. Your going to need to do alittle more upgrading to the heads pushing that kind of rpm. Ive herd people like the rev kits and i also herd they are a waste of money. So no knowledge there from me lol.

 

i have also heard that to about rev kits i heard you deff want them with a big lift cam to kep the lifters down but thats here say so dont really no but it shouldnt be that big of lift with a 9.5 inch convertor in a street car lol. it will turn out to be like a 362 with a .030 over bore so yea i figured a 750 would be plenty thanks again

 

am pushing around .576 lift on the 195cc afr heads with upgraded springs without the rev kit and see no issues. how big of a lift you going to go?

 

i was thinking this cam as i only have a 9.5 inch convertor http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp-Cams/249/...oductId=746632

 

so you want to push 8k and get a cam for 6200? I would look into a custom grind.

 

holy **** i just realized that too thats a short powerband didnt even look at full powerband i figured it would be at 7500. do you have any suggestions on custom ground cams?

 

call up a few cam grinders. Howards, Comp cams, Mike jones, etc. Out of 4 i called, mike jones was exactly where the board members here suggested. So i went with him.

Just tell them what its going in, street, strip or street/strip. Weight of car, tranny and convertor, rear end with gears, tire size. Then walla, they will throw numbers at you.

Custom grinds will cost alittle more, but are worth it

 

yea its gunna be a solid lifter now not a roller cuz the low rpms will kill the motor cuz of oiling at low rpms so now got more budget for heads lol i will give jones a call tomorrow and see what he says and the cost just waiting to hear about my block and see what the final bore size is so i can get pistons ordered also i will be throwing a 300 or 350 shot of spray at it

 

You need to be more careful about who you listen to.

 

not all sure what that means either. Tho i would agree solid cam for those rpms

 

prolly didnt explain it clearly the roller setup doesnt work well on the streets cuz of the low rpms as its a street car and will be street driven alot. the roller setup doesnt get the oil it needs to last long at low rpms and a reputable motor builder told me this. i want it to last at 7k to 8k rpms and handle 350 shot of spray

 

seeing i have a roller cam i could see how 40 psi at low rpms could harm my motor

Am not following or understanding what your "mechanic" is telling you. If roller motors was such a problem how did they last so long in production? And why does everyone opt for it for a street car rather then solid or flat tappet?

 

not real sure ill see if i can get a better understanding ofwhat hes talking about

 

My street car is running a solid roller.. Im using crower high-po roller lifters.
It spins to 8k fairly easy.
I wish I would have done the 4-7 firing order swap (I think it the LSx timming order). Its a few extra horse but nuthing big.

You need to do searching into some motor build up stories and what it takes cost wise.... its a eye opener..
plus itll give ya some ideas instead of listening to a guy who once built the fastest ever corvette 327 with a 3/4 race cam, dub hump heads, 650 dub pump carb, yellow accel plug wires, trw forged pistons, edlebrock intake and coated white 99$ headers..

 

been thinking a lot all day and decided to not listen to the motor guy that told me that and say screw it and run a solid roller cuz if im running a bryant crank and carillo rods both lightweight part swhy would i restrict there rev ability and run a solid cam? dumb i think solid roller is the way to go. the crank and rods were looked at by a VERY good motor builder and he said i could build it to turn 10k consistantly with that crank. and if you dont belive me that he can build good motors here is a mud truck that we built that has one of his motors http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vvorl...eature=related i will also do the 4-7 swap heard it helps a little bit but it will help do you no if you just move your plug wires on the distributor or not? please explain if im wrong. cost isnt a big factor for a roler setup as my dad said he would giv eme the springs and lifters and stuff just needed to buy the cam if i went roller. also do you run aluminum heads cuz weight isnt a real big factor just wanted to no your thoughts on them also

 

wrong video the first time this is a actual run in nc first pass on the 632 no bottle http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MH_nG0bX9PQ&NR=1

 

just picked up my block today and deciced to no tuse it as i just got a aluminum block for 1k from my dad thats in perfect shape but now he wont help me out on a roller assembly but no bigge just got an aluminum block for 1000$!!! yah me right lol

 

You are wise not to listen to that motor guy, if that was the case, most motors from the mid 80's to now would have been in a heap of trouble.

 

yea idk what he was thinking as the new motor WILL be a rolller but more good news about the motor build is that the aluminum block i bought from my dad is actually a rotating assembly and its a 440 cubic inch small block. so im gunna refreshen that up and get heads to put on it. gunna put another motor together with the bryant crank and rods. ill be posting pics of my crank and rods and my new rotating assembly once i get sometime. i will be putting afrs most likely on both motors just gotta talk to some people and see if they"ll sell a set they got at a decent price. will be ordering pistons for the byrant and carrillo set up as soon as i figure out if im gunna spray that motor a lot or not. thanks for looking hoping to have somethinga ssembled soon

 

well here are some pics of the crank and rods. the aluminum block is gunna be put together with these parts instead. just gotta get rod length and everything figured out so i can get pistons made. also the crank is only 3.250 stroke so gotta figure everything out again.

 

that crank is BEAutiful. lol... this sounds like a combo for a nascar motor. a 3.25" stroke with a 4" bore is a 327. if your block is a 4.125" bore then you can get a few more cubes. Some diamond or CP pistons with compliment your combo well!


machine work on an aluminum block will also be expensive... unless its all ready to go... what is the brand of the block? Dart? Brodix?

im not crank expert (yet lol) but that crank must be super light, which also means that it is only intended for N/A power. 8K rpm no problem, but maybe call up bryant and ask them about power adders. same thing for the rods, weigh them and see. maybe 500-550 grams? 3/8" or 7/16" rod bolts?

also, to make good power out of a small cube sbc, you need rpm and good heads. you'll find that a valvetrain will cost you an arm and a leg... mine cost about $5500 including the heads.

at least you motor will weigh a ton less the your current motor.

As for a cam, maybe call bullet cams and get a nice healths custom solid roller. i have one from them, and i was tempted to put in a glass case and put it on a shelf

 

yea the crank will have no spray on this motor its far to light and i rather than be safe than sorry with this bottom end. also sleeper do you have diamond or cp pistons? i have heard great things about diamonds.

not real sure about the brand of block will let you no when i get its out in storage right now and my dad hasnt even touched it in like 4 years. lol. but hes really sure that the bore is 4.125

also i heard great things about bullet so that will prolly be my setup cam wise but i will build this to chip it at 9000 to be safe. so im prolly gunna run a rev kit to keep the valves from floating at high rpms.

and the rods ill weight them and post the weight also the rods have the sps option which is like 400$ option form carrillo so for 500$ i think i did good for the whole setup.

also sleeper what size heads do you think would be a good setup for this motor?

as for a carb do you guys think a barry grant 750dp is enough that rpm range and the carb is a silver claw?
thanks

 

are you looking to road race? drag race? a daily driver? or a weekend fun car?

I had my doubts about bullet cams, but it only took one call and one custom cam to think otherwise, they know what they are doing.

here is a reference:

 

What is the primary use of the car? Drag race? road race? weekend fun car?

here is a reference for you and everyone to get a clear picture:
4" bore = 327
4.030" = 332
4.060" = 337
4.125" = 347
4.155" = 353

even with a big bore, you are still on the small side as far as cubic inches goes.

but you have the advantage as far as quality components goes.

I just built a Big block, so some thing are different as far as sbc's go. but at 9000 rpm, your are going to need titanium valves and some ridiculous valve springs. with modern technology, all you really need is some isky red zone lifters. i have never dealt with rev kits, but maybe some else will chime in with more knowledge on that topic.

on the rods, just make sure the rod bolts are in good shape, because on my bro's 327 i am building, the rod bolts have some very small cracks that would normally be overlooked and cause a catastrophic failure.

as far as cylinder heads, i would opt for some bigger ones. if it were my motor, I would get some AFR 210's or 227's, or some Brodix T1's with the full CNC option. both are great heads, but will be in the $2000~ range. (AFR in the comp parting, but only $1500 in the street porting)

With either head, the more lift the better... .600"+... lift will make HP, and duration will make the power band...


with these parts, i would not even consider anything other than s Solid Roller. it would be a shame to use these great parts with a sissy flat tappet and some wimpy heads.

And if you TRULY intend to take this motor to 8000-9000 RPM, then a LARGE 4150 (850-950 cfm) or a dominator would be a good choice, given your parameters.



I am no professional engine builder, but i am a logcal thinker and am going to college for mechanical engineering. i am great at math and physics, but i really only have 3 engines under my belt.

PM me if you really want to get in depth, i really wish i had these nice part to build a motor with...

 

The block is roetec or however you spellit lol. The car is gunna be a full drag car when this motor is installed as I'm looking into buying a full drag car in the next or so. Yes its ab third gen lol. So the compression can be higher. Also how much did your cam cost? Also will PM you when I get on a computer trying to do this on a phone.