i got a 305 and I'm wanting to make it a beast with what I've been reading online. would swaping heads, intake and carb be easy or a pain in my ***??

 

"305" and "beast" don't usually go well together.

None of those things is very "hard". How difficult it is really depends on your level of skill, with a little bit of luck for what might go wrong in the process.

 

Have to second this.

 

from what Ive read they are economy engines but can put oput 375hp if moded right. would a non adjutable float holley be a good carb?

 

305's are generally the economical 8. You can get a lot more out of them as well as keep the economy though most don't bother. I however just pulled the 383 out and put a 305 into my 91 Z28. With easy to perform bolt on's. Modifications you can do without pulling the engine. Is yours TBI or TPI?

 

The key is the same. Air, fuel, ignition, exhaust. Without doing the heads which I wouldn't recommend unless you pull it out and then why not do the bottom end to freshen it up as well there are a number of bolt on's to increase or bring a little beast out of a 305. High flow intakes, larger throttle bodies, adjustable fuel pressure regulators, high fire coils and wires, headers, 3" exhaust and the much needed aftermarket chip. These are various and depend on your engine system but if your at all mechanically inclined achievable. Reducing the power drains with roller rockers, delete a/c electric water pump, and installing billet brackets and pulley's. There are not many who think of my 305 as anything but a beast and it still gets 28+ @ 80 on regular fuel. Of course the real beast 383 was quicker to the finish line and the gas pump, and to an empty wallet with the price of premium fuel plus additives. Things you can accomplish with a highrise and big carb.

 

from your question i take it you have not done any . advice , take it slow , learn about engines . put a holley 650 4 barrel on a l03 , will do nothing but drain fuel & wallet . do a good tune-up first , work with what you have . take it slow and research , see/read what others have done . start (after a good tune-up) with intake & exhaust . with out research and a lot of thought you just pi$$ing into the wind . good luck .

 

its actually a carb from 86. now is there anything complicated about putting in a new distributor?

 

Upgrade to a 350, you have better head options, will make more power. and pistons etc are more readily available.

 

The guys are right about 350's being part friendly but if you want HP and Mileage that will get you further than the next gas station learn about fuel injection. That 305 as my avatar pulls the front loose and I'm sure it will get it off the ground if it didn't scare me to death. I can re-tune it and have made long highway cruises from GA to TX at 28+ mpg and if you can do that carbed then go for it. You just can't beat the rev's you can put out or the gas mileage you can make. They will tell you you can't find tuners. Learn to do it yourself.

 

I agree.

 

Just make sure number 1 is at TDC.Leave your wires in place and take the cap loose and lay it aside,Put in the new dist with the rotor pointing in the same place,should be close to pointing at the # 1 cylinder.It helps to put a mark on the engine where the rotor is pointing with a sharpie before you pull the old one.Put the cap on and remove the wires from the old cap one at a time to the new one.Should fire up.Every time I've done it like this it has only needed minor timing adjutment.It also helps to get a corrected cap if your running an HEI.Cleans up the wires too.Just my 2 cents.

 

true, just try and find flat top pistons for a 305! if your lucky and you have a 87 and up roller block, i find that reducing friction is a way to free up extra power. also blueprinting the block helps as well as does a good balancing job. roller tip rockers from comp cams 1.5 for the intake 1.6 for the exhaust.realistically you can achieve 340 hp and 370 ft lbs torque from a 305 AND get 20+ mpg.good luck!!

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-H534CP/

 

I agree with Uncle Tom. It sounds like you need to stick to the basics. If you stick at it you will learn it. When you pull that Distributor it will rotate the rotor counter clockwise to disengage the cam gear. Note that amount or when you try and put it back in pointing the rotor at #1 it will rotate clockwise not point at #1 and not go all the way down because of the oil pump shaft when you get it right it will seat correctly. It sometimes takes sliding it out and catching a different cam gear tooth alignment.