Fuel Problem on 350 4bbl swap
Thread Starter
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Casper, Wyo
Car: '89 RS w/350 swap
Engine: 350 4bbl
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 2.73 posi
Fuel Problem on 350 4bbl swap
I just recently bought an 89 RS camaro that someone did an engine swap on. they replaced the 305 with a carbed 350, Edelbrock 600cfm 4bbl with performer intake, and its got about 6k miles on it. the problem is, if it's kept at idle for too long, it dies.
this last time it happened, i was stopped by construction. i was idling for about 5-7 minutes, and when i took off, i made it about 100 feet before it stumbled and died. i checked the jets, and it wasn't shooting fuel. took off the filter, and there was no fuel coming through the line while cranking. however, with the line reattached it would almost start, then stumble and die. i left the car alone for about 10-15 minutes, and tried cranking again. it started right up and made it to the house, no problems.
got under the car, and it has an in-line low pressure fuel pump. i figured it was overheating, but it's got good distance from the exhaust. the fuel lines, when going up to the engine compartment, travel about an inch away from the headers though, and when they put the engine in the didn't wrap them (price i pay for getting someone elses handiwork). this morning, it started up fine and i got to work with no problems.
so i guess my question is, would the lines being too close to the headers be causing enough vapor-lock that it stops fuel flow, or do i need to look at replacing the in-line pump? if it's the lines, i can heat-sheild 'em pretty easily.
this last time it happened, i was stopped by construction. i was idling for about 5-7 minutes, and when i took off, i made it about 100 feet before it stumbled and died. i checked the jets, and it wasn't shooting fuel. took off the filter, and there was no fuel coming through the line while cranking. however, with the line reattached it would almost start, then stumble and die. i left the car alone for about 10-15 minutes, and tried cranking again. it started right up and made it to the house, no problems.
got under the car, and it has an in-line low pressure fuel pump. i figured it was overheating, but it's got good distance from the exhaust. the fuel lines, when going up to the engine compartment, travel about an inch away from the headers though, and when they put the engine in the didn't wrap them (price i pay for getting someone elses handiwork). this morning, it started up fine and i got to work with no problems.
so i guess my question is, would the lines being too close to the headers be causing enough vapor-lock that it stops fuel flow, or do i need to look at replacing the in-line pump? if it's the lines, i can heat-sheild 'em pretty easily.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Vapor lock is usually caused by the fuel in the line from the tank to the pump getting hot and vaporizing. Where is this in-line pump?
Most likely they didn't drop the tank and remove the factory in-tank electric pump. It's pretty hard for an external pump to suck fuel through a non-operating in-tank pump. I would recommend getting the in-tank pump operating, adding a return-style fuel pressure regulator, and using that in-line pump for skeet practice.
Most likely they didn't drop the tank and remove the factory in-tank electric pump. It's pretty hard for an external pump to suck fuel through a non-operating in-tank pump. I would recommend getting the in-tank pump operating, adding a return-style fuel pressure regulator, and using that in-line pump for skeet practice.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
A spacer won't do anything about fuel not getting to the carb.
Re: Fuel Problem on 350 4bbl swap
Totally agree with you.Just considering moving forward the possibilities.
You know if you guys could measure the pick-up locking ring on the Thirdgen cars,I might be able to suggest a somewhat modern pick-up that come out of a 27 gallon 1985 carb'ed Astro that you could buy new.Has the sending unit,return line,vent,canister,etc.I'll post a pic of one.You suggestion sure would work.But if it where me I would want a external pump so it is easier to replace.I dread dropping the tanks on the in tank pumps on the Astro's.
You know if you guys could measure the pick-up locking ring on the Thirdgen cars,I might be able to suggest a somewhat modern pick-up that come out of a 27 gallon 1985 carb'ed Astro that you could buy new.Has the sending unit,return line,vent,canister,etc.I'll post a pic of one.You suggestion sure would work.But if it where me I would want a external pump so it is easier to replace.I dread dropping the tanks on the in tank pumps on the Astro's.
Last edited by 1gary; Aug 9, 2011 at 03:49 PM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Casper, Wyo
Car: '89 RS w/350 swap
Engine: 350 4bbl
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 2.73 posi
Re: Fuel Problem on 350 4bbl swap
Vapor lock is usually caused by the fuel in the line from the tank to the pump getting hot and vaporizing. Where is this in-line pump?
Most likely they didn't drop the tank and remove the factory in-tank electric pump. It's pretty hard for an external pump to suck fuel through a non-operating in-tank pump. I would recommend getting the in-tank pump operating, adding a return-style fuel pressure regulator, and using that in-line pump for skeet practice.
Most likely they didn't drop the tank and remove the factory in-tank electric pump. It's pretty hard for an external pump to suck fuel through a non-operating in-tank pump. I would recommend getting the in-tank pump operating, adding a return-style fuel pressure regulator, and using that in-line pump for skeet practice.
The in-line is right outside of the tank, where the fuel filter would usually be. its pretty well guarded against heat. if they left the old pump in the tank wouldn't it have problems all the time? unless the in line is shutting down once it gets too overworked
Re: Fuel Problem on 350 4bbl swap
Two things I think.If it where me,I would do one of the two things posted(use the in tank pump and use a regulator or change the pick-up not to try to draw threw a dead pump)I am guessing the tank is still vented as normal.The pump you have should be somewhat gravity fed.You have seen the pumps on some cars at the lower part of the car from the rear bumper right??.But it does sound like a vapor lock or vacuum issue not allowing the fuel to flow.One outside chance is you could have gotten a new pump that is defective.Might want to check that out too.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Casper, Wyo
Car: '89 RS w/350 swap
Engine: 350 4bbl
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 2.73 posi
Re: Fuel Problem on 350 4bbl swap
Two things I think.If it where me,I would do one of the two things posted(use the in tank pump and use a regulator or change the pick-up not to try to draw threw a dead pump)I am guessing the tank is still vented as normal.The pump you have should be somewhat gravity fed.You have seen the pumps on some cars at the lower part of the car from the rear bumper right??.But it does sound like a vapor lock or vacuum issue not allowing the fuel to flow.One outside chance is you could have gotten a new pump that is defective.Might want to check that out too.
thats another good idea. Sounds like i will be dropping a gas tank this weekend. thank you all for the input, i'll let you know what i find
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Ghettobird52
Tech / General Engine
16
Jul 5, 2024 11:18 PM
theshackle
Tech / General Engine
4
Mar 5, 2017 06:37 PM
86IROC112
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
4
Aug 17, 2015 02:00 PM






