I've just bought an 86 Iroc with a 305 carb engine (not running to well). I also have a 1970-73 350 2 bolt main in need of a rebuild. This would be my first rebuild. I'd like to rebuild the 350 and replace the 305 with it. I was looking for ideas on good cheap parts and combinations to get a range of 350-400rwhp heads, cam, intake,I have a 600 edlebrock carb and .30 pistons Any help woul be appreciated Thanks

 

Welcome aboard thirdgen.org.

600 CFM carb, 350-400 GFWHP, we can get you close. 350-400 RWHP, probably not.

My suggestions:
Get on eBay and see what you can get for that Edelbrock carb. It's best uses for you are funds toward real performance parts, or as a door stop.

Now, realistically, 350-400 RWHP is not daily driver territory. As stated earlier, 350-400 GFWHP we can look into. But, you'd better purge "cheap" from your vocabulary. "Least expense possible" we can talk.

Go ahead and rebuild the 350 shortblock (but only bore it 0.030" over - .30" over and you'll hit water). The heads - see what you can get for them from a scrapyard.

Heads & intake: Trust me on this, you won't find a better deal than this - http://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-d...er/sd8060rakit
Don't doubt me, this is the least expense possible toward your goal.

Cam - Comp XE268H. Or something similar from Lunati. Stay away from Edelbrock, Summit, etc., grinds. I know they're cheaper, but you won't be happy with the way they run.

Now, you'll probably spit & choke on this, but again, don't doubt me here - keep your factory carburetor, distributor, and computer. That Edelbrock carb is a HUGE downgrade, and will cost you more to use than the factory carb, distributor, and computer. What you need to upgrade is the air cleaner - go dual snorkel, not open element. You may need to tune the secondary rods & hanger, but this is cheap compared to what you'd need to do to get that Edelbrock carb running.

Exhaust - every factory piece on the car needs to go. You need headers and free-flowing exhaust on back. In my opinion, the best way to go for a car you intend to drive on the street is shorties with a Y-pipe to a 3" exhaust. The parts listed for the '86-'90 TPI single cat will get you there. This part will be a bit expensive, but if you try to skimp here, forget all your other goals. My recommendation would be Hooker 2055HKR headers & Y-pipe (they include a really good Y-pipe), and whatever 3" cat-back you like for the above application. I'm pretty happy with the Flowmaster Force II cat-back I have on one of my LS1 cars (not too loud our restrictive, and one of the least expensive cat-backs out there).

You'd also be happier with a little more stall in the converter. 2500 at least. Consider a Transgo shift improver kit, Vette servo, etc., as discussed on the Transmission and Drivetrain forum.

With this new-found power, you're going to need to do more to the car to handle it. Figure on subframe connectors (I lean toward weld-in type), posi rear end, and at least 3.23 gears. Poly suspension bushings are a good idea.

Depending upon some of the variables, you're probably looking at $5k-$7k to do this properly.

 

I really appreciate the input! Lol Im not looking for a daily driver as I bought this for a fun project. I do also understand that suspension, exhaust, rearend and other info you mentioned will be replaced once i get the engine built.Right now I'm just rebuilding the engine on a stand. The parts I have can easily be thrown out I was just Listing what I have. Also cheap was more intended on best bang for my buck.

 

I guess we should have established what you'd be doing with the car.

But, there isn't much difference between DD and "cruiser".

Weekend warrior - you could argue some modifications of my suggestions (but it still won't involve an Edelbrock carb...).