I've decided to go ahead and start a thread, detailing what I'm doing.

I haven't done much but order and get body parts ready, but I bought a cheap camera to take pictures of what I do, and what I get. I've already gotten a small sum of parts via FedEx, so this seems like a good time to start this.

Anyway, My '82 Trans Am seems like a good candidate for a swap, as it's an original four speed car... when I got it, it had a 400 in it. The first thing I did was yard that thing, as I was told it smoked.

A couple years later, I came across an 87-95 truck block, that had a flat cam. I picked it up for a few hundred bucks, and got reading up on what I could do with it. I've bought what is needed to change it from a flat tappet cam to a roller, and now I just need to get a few more things; namely, some heads, a cam, and some roller rockers.

 

While I'm building, which takes time to get everything, I made a trade with a guy for a running 350 to put in my car momentarily.

Everyone I talked to, including family, told me it's a healthy running 350. It's pre-86, of course, but the way everyone talked about it, it's been rebuilt and has a healthy cam. Of course, if my memory serves me correct, the design on the heads means it's got 1.72's.

That, and I threw in one hundred bucks and took his '92 KTM 250 off his hands...

A little side project.

Also, anyone out there reading this, when it gets time to put my engine in, can I use a pre-86 flywheel?

 

If the engine is 2-piece rear main seal, you can use an '82 flywheel (assuming you're sticking with the 4-speed). Just make sure your starter will bolt up to the block - some of the older 350 blocks didn't have all of the starter mount bolt holes.

 

I've a brand new starter for his roller cam engine...

But that's a no-go on putting the flywheel on the roller-cam block?

As that's what i need it for...

 

Starter type is related to the size of flywheel , not the block type (exp 400ci )Inline bolt pattern starter fits 153 tooth , offset bolt fits 168 tooth flywheel

As mentioned by five7kid above ,flywheel type ( whether it will fit a engine ) relates to type of crankshaft used; early ( 2pce ) or late (1 pce ) style crank

Only problem also as noted by him; is if a block has all the starter holes drilled to allow swapping from one type starter to the other
If you have 3 holes drilled in the starter pad on block you can fit either type starter

 

I'm not asking about a starter; I want to know if I can put my flywheel on my engine I'm building...

 

So why mention it......
If you are talking about the flywheel from your '82 motor on a '87+ motor;
NO

 

I didn't mention the starter, someone else did, and I replied...

But, crap. And I'm having trouble finding a flywheel...

 

I brought up the starter because you said this:

So, which engine are you talking about???

 

The engine I'm currently building; in other words, ignore anything that has to do with a pre-86 engine.

 

Plenty out there to choice from

153 tooth
http://www.summitracing.com/search/P.../?Ns=Price|Asc

168 tooth
http://www.summitracing.com/search/P.../?Ns=Price|Asc

 

Thanks, buddy.

I appreciate it...

... what's stock on these cars, if you don't mind me quickly asking?

 

153 tooth using a starter with the inline bolt pattern
Just make sure the new flywheel you buy is listed as for a 1 pce RMS ('87+ ) engine
not the earlier 2 pce RMS engine

 

While I'm on the subject, when the roller-cam motor goes in, will the clutch pack fit correctly on the 87+ flywheel?

 

Well, I have the temp motor on the stand; it doesn't look too bad.





I'm ready for some driving; I rarely drive cars, so this should be fun...

 

Alright, got the motor nice and clean.

... and in the car.

Almost time to go burn some rubber?

First things first, and that's making sure it'll move.

Gotta hook it the rest of the way up, but...

 

Well, it has a bad head gasket, and I haven't gotten much time to work on it after I found the leak.

I'm just hoping it's a gasket.

 

Replaced both head gaskets, got everything squared away, got the rats-nest of a wiring job under the dash taken care of. Now, I need to get a hold of my exhaust manifolds...

I've been missing them for god knows how long; I need to find a pair of new ones...

I'm more than likely going to go for some Heddman Headers.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-68460/

What do you guys think about these headers?

 

No, sir. I'm going with a one-piece rear main seal. I want to know if I can use the current transmission with a newer flywheel.

The engine I have put in, is just to get it on the road.

 

I think these http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAINLESS-ST...ht_4101wt_1045


you wont see any real difference between these and $800 headers unless you are planning to set a record on the track.

 

I would go for those, but I'd really like long tube headers...

It's just one of those things for me.

Unless it'd be a real pain, I'm going for some long-tubes.

But, if ground clearance is too affected by the headers, I'll consider it...

How badly would this affect my ground clearance vs shorties?

 

Agood set won't hurt you at all, the pipes running to the back might be a problem for most shops

 

Then I'll do it. My exhaust guy is a family friend, and he's done all of our vehicles. He's good, to say the least.

I don't need it for my current set up, but I'll need it for when this roller-cam 350 goes in. I'm gonna build it to the best of my abilities; and that's scary.

 

take your time, it took me 9 months and 2 different Dynos to get my LT! powered truck right.

 

Sorry for the neglect, I've had no time lately; weather's either been to bad, or I've had previous engagements.

Got my car going, though; it's just what the guy told me.

The engine runs alright, after I replaced the head gaskets.

Here's a little pic from my first start-up...



Anyway, I've got it running, but just today, it seems the clutch "switch" relay has gone bad; it won't start with the key now.

Where is it, and what's it look like?

 

It was dark last night, but I've found it; and it's not the culprit.

It clicks under the dash, but I can't pinpoint where it's coming from.

I just checked and replaced a few fuses, but to no avail.

Where is the culprit under my dash?

Oh, and happy thanksgiving.

 

I found the relays, and I the one I assume goes from the key makes a loud click when the ignition is turned to on, and when it's turned to start.

If Napa's open tomorrow, I'll replace it, as it's noticeably loud.

Also, I'm having a strange problem; my turn signals work, but when I turn on my park lights or head lights, the right turn signal indicator comes on, and the turn signal won't work.

Any ideas? This one is stumping me more than the starter issue...

 

Well, the light issue resolved its self.

The start problem persists.

But the car's together.

 

Oh, the ignorance I had 5 years ago. At any rate, this engine eventually lost a rod bearing and knocked itself away. Built up a 283 to replace it, ran well for a good three or so years, before I took it to the track and it ate some bearings- no knock, just no oil pressure at a warm idle. Here's a quick video I threw together when I was bored, still waiting on that pay raise to afford to dress up my roller cam block with some, uh, "better than stock" replacements.


Also, greetings, all. It's been a nice vacation from here.