355 swap 91 rs
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From: St Catharines, ON
Car: '85 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: 355 swap 91 rs
If the new 355 is a one piece rear main seal the trans will bolt up fine. If it's a two piece, you'll need a different flywheel.
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Re: 355 swap 91 rs
You want a flywheel from an 83-85 Camaro Z28. Any parts store should be able to get one.
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Re: 355 swap 91 rs
There is no flywheel in either of those sizes.
Flywheels are either 12.8" or 14"; 153 or 168 teeth respectively.
Since no 14" one ever came in one of these cars, you'll need the 12.8" (which takes a 10½" clutch).
The correct flywheel is 83-85 Camaro/Firebird V8. 84 Z28 is such an application.
You'll find there are 2; the one for the low-perf "grocery getter" LG4 (the equivalent in its day to what you've got) which is about 22 lbs, and the one for the L69 (the hot-rod of the day) which is about 16 lbs.
Since you have a TBI motor, which is ANYTHING BUT "HO", if your car had come with a 5-speed, it would have come with the heavier one, to make up for its terrible gearing and overall pack of power. But you might find the lighter one suits you better, especially if you've fixed the gear "cripple" the car came with.
Flywheels are either 12.8" or 14"; 153 or 168 teeth respectively.
Since no 14" one ever came in one of these cars, you'll need the 12.8" (which takes a 10½" clutch).
The correct flywheel is 83-85 Camaro/Firebird V8. 84 Z28 is such an application.
You'll find there are 2; the one for the low-perf "grocery getter" LG4 (the equivalent in its day to what you've got) which is about 22 lbs, and the one for the L69 (the hot-rod of the day) which is about 16 lbs.
Since you have a TBI motor, which is ANYTHING BUT "HO", if your car had come with a 5-speed, it would have come with the heavier one, to make up for its terrible gearing and overall pack of power. But you might find the lighter one suits you better, especially if you've fixed the gear "cripple" the car came with.
Re: 355 swap 91 rs
Well the engine I am dropping in is carbed with a 650 holley and I am certain it packs plenty of power would it be better to go with the heavier of the two to play it safe?
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Re: 355 swap 91 rs
Heavier will make it launch better if you wind it up before dumping the clutch. (standard operating procedure with underpowered motors in under-geared cars, like the L03 or LG4)
Lighter will make it feel snappier and peppier all the way around, but if you don't have enough motor and/or gear, and if your tuning skillz aren't adequate, may make it very difficult to take off smoothly without killing the motor.
Your call.
I always run the light ones. But then, I run some of the better stock gears usually (3.73) and motors with ALOT more power than .... most.
Lighter will make it feel snappier and peppier all the way around, but if you don't have enough motor and/or gear, and if your tuning skillz aren't adequate, may make it very difficult to take off smoothly without killing the motor.
Your call.
I always run the light ones. But then, I run some of the better stock gears usually (3.73) and motors with ALOT more power than .... most.
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Re: 355 swap 91 rs
That's pretty much it, in a nutshell. Just pick which weight you want. All the rest of your existing stuff will work fine.
Pay attention to my "famous" pic when assembling it though...
Pay attention to my "famous" pic when assembling it though...
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Re: 355 swap 91 rs
Just put your existing stuff all on it.
Whatever is different, take off, and put your 91 stuff there instead. You'll need the reverse-rotation water pump off the 91 FOR SURE (or rather, a NEW one of the same type, no sense putting some wore-out old thing on there that might flake next week), the V-belt WP won't work with a serpentine drive.
Whatever is different, take off, and put your 91 stuff there instead. You'll need the reverse-rotation water pump off the 91 FOR SURE (or rather, a NEW one of the same type, no sense putting some wore-out old thing on there that might flake next week), the V-belt WP won't work with a serpentine drive.
Re: 355 swap 91 rs
Well I went and got my flywheel and clutch kit it appears the flywheel is atleast an inch smaller then the flex plate I removed from the engine..is there a solution for this or should it work fine with the starter from my 305?
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Re: 355 swap 91 rs
Should work fine.
Sounds like your engine had the 14" flex plate on it, and you're now of course, putting the 12.8" flywheel on it, so that it will fit the car. No problem there.

As long as the block has the circled bolt hole, the 305 starter will bolt right up. Now, whether it has enough nads to turn over the larger engine, that's another matter altogether. But, cross that bridge only when you get to it.
Sounds like your engine had the 14" flex plate on it, and you're now of course, putting the 12.8" flywheel on it, so that it will fit the car. No problem there.

As long as the block has the circled bolt hole, the 305 starter will bolt right up. Now, whether it has enough nads to turn over the larger engine, that's another matter altogether. But, cross that bridge only when you get to it.
Re: 355 swap 91 rs
Well I have my engine in motor mount bolts in place but the trans looks as if it is twisted and I can't get the trans mount to line up properly is there a trick for this?
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Re: 355 swap 91 rs
Right; the starter that came with the motor prolly won't work, you'll need to use the one that came with the car.
Did I mention enough times, take off whatever is different from what came in the car, and put on whatever came in the car? If not, consider it mentioned one more time.
Yes the trans is, and should be, rotated; about 18° toward the driver's side, give or take.
If it's the trans from out of the car, should bolt right up.
In what way is it failing to do so?
Did I mention enough times, take off whatever is different from what came in the car, and put on whatever came in the car? If not, consider it mentioned one more time.
Yes the trans is, and should be, rotated; about 18° toward the driver's side, give or take.
If it's the trans from out of the car, should bolt right up.
In what way is it failing to do so?
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Re: 355 swap 91 rs
Too high? too low? too far to the left? to the right? to the front? to the rear? bolt pattern match up? and so on
Remember, it's dark up under your car, so we can't see it too well out here. If you want help, you gotta tell us what you want help with.
Remember, it's dark up under your car, so we can't see it too well out here. If you want help, you gotta tell us what you want help with.
Re: 355 swap 91 rs
Ok got the engine and trans in so it is about time for wiring I will be using an hei ddistributer and my carb has an electric choke what would you suggest I use to power there
Re: 355 swap 91 rs
Ok trying to put my slave cylander back on is it normar for it to fight me the whole way? It is taking every bit of strength I have to push the piston in the position it belongs and I can't seem to hold it there long enough to get the bolts in lol
Re: 355 swap 91 rs
Went and gota longer bolt to draw it in where i could get the smaller one started workd like a charm now for the drive shaft hope that goes smoother. I appreciate u helping me along I'm doing this whole swap solo on this end that's why I have so many questions
Joined: Sep 2005
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Re: 355 swap 91 rs
Sure; IFF the block has the hole in the pic way back up there the first time the subject came up. Or at least, it'll FIT; whether it WORKS or not is a whole other matter I'm not qualified to judge.
Joined: May 2004
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From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Re: 355 swap 91 rs
starter may need to be shimmed instead of replaced:
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...tarter-motor-2
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...tarter-motor-2
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