starting a swap
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 89
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Car: 1991 camaro z28 convertible
Engine: 5.0 v8
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.23 borg worner
starting a swap
im about to start a motor swap in my 91 rs vert im goig from a 305 tbi to a 350 carb and im keeping my trans wich is the 700r4 aod my dad was saying when we do the swap the trans will be fine with out the ecm beeing in the car anymore or do we have to keep the ecm in just for the trans
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From: Tampa, FL, USA
Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
Re: starting a swap
You need a lockup control switch, you can get what you need pretty cheap and easy:
http://www.jegs.com/i/TCI/890/376600/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/TCI/890/376600/10002/-1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 89
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Car: 1991 camaro z28 convertible
Engine: 5.0 v8
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.23 borg worner
Re: starting a swap
but since im not actuay taking the ecu out of the car because i dont want to take my dash apart to get it out if i just left the trans wired the way it is would that work also?
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iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 4,149
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From: Tampa, FL, USA
Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
Re: starting a swap
No, it wont work, and you'll need to take the wiring harness out to make something usable out of it, so you'll realistically need to remove the ecu. And it doesnt require a lot of dash disassembly to remove it.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 89
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Car: 1991 camaro z28 convertible
Engine: 5.0 v8
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.23 borg worner
Re: starting a swap
ohh okay it dosnt seem to hard to install and as for the ecm itself its just gonna stay in the car and not do anything im just gonna re wire what i have to and drop the motor and trans in
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From: Location, Location!
Car: 92 T/A 'vert
Engine: Mild .040 over L98 4 bolt mains
Transmission: Mostly stock 700R4, 2600 Vigilante
Axle/Gears: LS1 3.42
Re: starting a swap
Not being all that familiar with TBI, I "think" you'll also need the ECM for the speedo.
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 89
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Car: 1991 camaro z28 convertible
Engine: 5.0 v8
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.23 borg worner
Re: starting a swap
the rpm work off of the coil pack and the mph theres a speed sensor in the trans
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
The ECM doesn't feed the speedometer. The VSS signal goes to both the speedo and ECM.
Keep the ECM in there. It will power the in-tank electric fuel pump (which you should keep operating). Other than that, it will be brain-dead due to lack of distributor input (otherwise known as "cam sensor"), and throttle position input for all of the other functions it is supposed to perform.
Keep the ECM in there. It will power the in-tank electric fuel pump (which you should keep operating). Other than that, it will be brain-dead due to lack of distributor input (otherwise known as "cam sensor"), and throttle position input for all of the other functions it is supposed to perform.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 89
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Car: 1991 camaro z28 convertible
Engine: 5.0 v8
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.23 borg worner
Re: starting a swap
the engine has a mec fuel pump on it so im gonna use that pump but i need the fuel pump so i know.how.much gas i have
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Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Indianapolis
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 1978 L82 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: starting a swap
You don't need to buy a kit to lock up the trans if you don't mind flipping a switch cruising over 40mph. Take the ground wire of the tcc lookup (blue or green...can't remember) and wire it to a two way switch with the other connection making ground contact. For the fuel pump, take the tan wire to the sending unit which is behind the back seat to the pink ecm wire. It will only have power when egnition is engaged. A switch for this would be wise to keep you from blowing up the car, draining the battery, and if you put it in a hidden location it makes a great anti theft device. If I ever find my car 100 yards from where I left it, I'll be a very happy thirdgener!
-Jesse
-Jesse
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
You either need to have the in-tank electric pump operating, or you need to drop the tank and remove it.
Pusher electric in the tank feeding a mechanical on the engine is a fairly decent system. You will need a return, though, because the in-tank needs a constant flow of fuel through it to keep it cool. You can do that either with a return-style regulator, or a return-type mechanical pump.
Pusher electric in the tank feeding a mechanical on the engine is a fairly decent system. You will need a return, though, because the in-tank needs a constant flow of fuel through it to keep it cool. You can do that either with a return-style regulator, or a return-type mechanical pump.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 89
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Car: 1991 camaro z28 convertible
Engine: 5.0 v8
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.23 borg worner
Re: starting a swap
im only gonna use the mec fuel pump and i thouht tbi systems had return lines
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
TBI uses an in-tank electric fuel pump. The regulator is built into the TBI itself. Yes, it uses a return line.
Even if you use a mechanical pump on the engine, you either need to have the in-tank electric pump operating, or you need to drop the tank and remove it.
Personally, I'd rather use a return-style regulator and the in-tank electric fuel pump and forget about an engine-mounted mechanical. I've seen too many engine-mounted mechanical pumps fail in my time.
Even if you use a mechanical pump on the engine, you either need to have the in-tank electric pump operating, or you need to drop the tank and remove it.
Personally, I'd rather use a return-style regulator and the in-tank electric fuel pump and forget about an engine-mounted mechanical. I've seen too many engine-mounted mechanical pumps fail in my time.
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