superdog

My son bought me a 1988 iroc z28 for fathers day. He is just 20 and we have alway's wanted to do a project together. The car has no motor or trans in it. but have all the stuff to go back. But would like to build it. Want a little lope with cam and have good throttle response and tork. With that being said. what will the tbi handle or should we just go with a carb and how will this affect the computer and how will that affect the 700 r transmition if we are not using the computer. Sorry for the dumb questions, I have built some cars but they was all old school and many years ago. And man am i excited to do a project with my son. He is such a good kid. Any help and advise is welcome. Thanks in advance and God bless

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Welcome aboard thirdgen.org!

That's a pretty neat Father's Day present. Should be a good time for both of you.

Technically, the only emissions-legal system is EFI. Most likely you'll say you don't have emissions where you live, but that just means it isn't enforced, not that it doesn't apply.

If you're talking about putting the original 305 back in, I'm not sure I would bother. Yes, they can be made to run and sound decent, but for the money, you'd be able to make a 350 run a lot better. Just depends on your goals.

The TBI forum has better information about changes to that system than on this forum. There is a sticky there about a budget TBI buildup that covers all of the bases. Read that (at least the first 20 or so posts), and see what you think.

Typically lopey cams and EFI don't play well together. The cam overlap messes with the O2 sensor feedback. So, most swappers go the carb route for that reason. If you do go carb, you'll need a geometry corrector bracket on the carb throttle arm for the TV cable to the transmission, and you'll need to rig up some means of locking up the torque converter clutch in cruise conditions (kits are available). Otherwise, the computer won't care (other than turning on the check engine light).

If you're willing to do a more involved project, you may want to consider an LS swap. It's the platform of the future. Great power, great economy, great tuneability (more forgiving of lopey cams than the earlier EFI systems). And the aftermarket is really there to support it.

superdog

Thanks for the help and info. I have 2 good 2 bolt main 350 s and 3 sets of heads in the shop from trades that are in good shape. so 350 is the way i will go. and carb is what i would like to use (more my area as i am getting older and quit building cars when i got married and had kids) I am glad for the info on tranny i know nothing about 700r's Will start looking for what i need to use to run it. Do they make stalls for them and what will they handle ? would i be better off getting turbo 350/400 tranny is good as far as i know but was out of car when we got it. Not sure what is out there for 700r. Been reading some of the other forums, and will continue. Think i will teach my son how to port and polish heads for this project also. Again thanks for the info and will take feedback to get this project going.

superdog

Sorry forgot to mention Imissions probably play apart here, but we have no inspections here, know that is not politicly correct, but still would like to build it old school

NagleMac

iTrader: (1)

350 is the way to go with this, even if its just a stock type rebuild. Emissions wise, you can register it for classic or collectible tags to be exempt from emissions. If it was originally a TBI car it wont be that difficult to switch it to a carb.

DeltaElite121

Build a 383 stroker out of one of those blocks. That's what I would do.

NagleMac

iTrader: (1)

If he's planning on using some old heads that are laying around then a 383 might not be worth it. If its a stock build, 350 is fine, if you're looking for performance, than there's no doubt that a 383 is a good way to go and also cost effective.

DeltaElite121

Cost is negligible at best being he's only got the block and heads. Extra displacement certainly won't hurt him any.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Yes, They make stalls for 700-r4s. Please don't use a cheap one off the shelf of Jegs or Summit Racing or some place like that. You probably won't be happy with it.

700-R4s can be built to handle 700+ HP, but your stock ones were meant to go behind 240 RWHP or so. Corvette ones even had different modifications than our F-bodies ones had. Boost valves, servos, and etc. 700-r4s are pretty widely supported by the f-body market and even other hot rods that swap to them. Mainly due to the 4 speed automatic with OD allowing decent gas mileage.

Biggest thing about the 700-R4s is the Kickdown cable is critical. You have to make sure to use the correct brackets (throttle cable/transmission) and correct linkage bracket. The TV Cable on the 700-R4 controls the internal pressure in the transmission. Mess it up and you run the chance of burning it up.

Turbo 350/400s are good. Almost any transmission shop can quote you a decent build on them, but you have to change the cross member, torque arm, and driveshafts (depending on the transmission and tailshaft style used).

If you don't have driveshaft yet wait until you get the transmission and rearend you want picked out. No sense in buying one then having to sell it for another.

In either case if this is going to be a street driven car I recommend a lockup transmission and converter with a good lockup kit. Normally the lockup was controlled by the computer if you go carb you have to figure that out. There are various posts about it so I'll skip explaining. Also know the later 700-R4s are different design than the earlier ones, making them stronger.


Some links you might want to browse around:

http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-GM-F-Body/

http://www.700r4l60e.com/

http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/ca...92-F%252dBody/

NagleMac

iTrader: (1)

True, IF he only has the block, which it sounds like youre right then. What I'm takling about if he has an assembled stock 350.

91z28383

Build a 355. Good power less machine work.

DeltaElite121

The machine work between a 355 and 383 is the exact same. Even if you paid a machine shop to clearance your block, it definitely wouldn't be very much.