Hi everyone! this is my first post on this site and im glad there is such a nice forum for Third Gens! I currently have an 83 sport coupe with a 2.8 carbed 5 speed. I will be swapping in a 350 once im done building it. I just picked up a 350 this weekend for 100 bucks, I got heads and an Edelbrock performer intake with it, it was a steal. I am unsure of the exact origin of the engine, the number off the block is 3932388. I have found out that it is a 350 out of a 1969 Corvette? I have also heard then some of these numbers were 305's? build date is about right being built in may 20th of 69.

I will be posting pictures shortly of my build. Anyways, the heads are off the motor now, the cylinder walls have some surface rust, nothing a good honing would not handle. I do not have intricate machining tools and was wondering if there was a way to check crank bearings? I need a decent amount of things for the motor including cam, pushrods, valve springs and rockers. Heads need to be cleaned up they look like hell but useable. Any help would be appreciated! thanks guys

 

Here are some pictures of the motor, more pictures coming soon! cant wait to get this project rolling! I would really appreciate input in this project due to I have never tackled a build! I have wrench time, doing normal maintenance like struts shocks ball joints things of that sort. Im on a due to being in college full time but Its okay if the project takes awhile to do, I will not slack on what I need. Thank you for taking your time and reading!

 

Highly unlikely it came out of a Corvette. 3932388 is the casting number, which simply means it is a 4" bore, large main bearing 1969 casting. It could have been a 327, which also means it had a 2bbl carb and terrible heads, or a 2bbl 350 - completely impossible to know with only a casting number.

Now, if you got the stamped number from the pad in front of the right cylinder bank, it may tell you more. But, all that is really important is whether it was a 327 or 350.

I suggest taking it to a machine shop and have it bored/honed to the next oversize, hopefully not more than .030" or .040" over.

There is a product called plastigage, but you're probably better off taking it to a shop and having them check the crank over.

Let's address the next item first and then come back to this.

Get the casting number off of the heads and post that here. The casting number is located under the valve cover between a couple of valves. It will likely be 3927185 or 3927188. Look at both heads, and look carefully - a 5 can look like a 6 can look like an 8. If they are 1969 heads, then it is fairly easy to say two things about them: 1) They don't have hardened exhaust valves or seats (unless that was done to them sometime in the past); and 2) they aren't very good heads. Find out what you have, and we'll go from there.

We also need to know what you have planned for the car when this engine is installed. Daily driving? Drag strip? Assume you are putting a carb on it - what do you have planned for intake, carb, distributor? What transmission?

 

thanks for the reply! keep in mind that I do not have a lot of wiggle room on my budget, although I have not set a limit yet im trying to spend at most a grand to get the motor ready to mount. I would love to take the block to a machine shop but if I feel as though I could get away with a light honing, new rings and the heads being resurfaced. Don't throw your computer out the window but Harbor Freight sells a light honer that is an attachment for a drill. I might have to try that out just to see how it works, who knows maybe ill save a hundred or two. If it comes to boreing the cylinder walls ill just have to bite the bullet. I may need new crank bearings I guess ill have to have a machine shop do that.

although its difficult to read the number off the heads from the picture, I presume the numbers are 3983241 , these numbers were also on the head I don't know if they would be helpful. E20 9 and Gm7.

I want the car to be streetable and have some good low end torque to it. That being said I was given an Edelbrock performer intake, decent flow but a good intake for the street. I will be needing a cam also so do you have any recommendations? I would like a cam with a little more lift than stock, but not something with a life of like .492.

I got a T-5 out of an 87 Camaro with a v8 along with its bellhousing. The t-5 came off of a v8 and the bellhousing I have is correct. That being said I know that the T-5 is a weaker transmission and with a stock 350 im already at the limit with power. I will take it easy shifting and I feel as though it should be fine. I took it to one of my buddies friends who owns a transmission shop and he told me that the transmission looked fine, granted he did not rip it apart he just felt how it shifted. He told me that these T-5's always had a little slop in them?

I have not decided on a Carb, I feel as though I should get a 650? big enough to tune for higher horsepower applications down the road but not to big? let me put it this way, I want to have the least amount of wires on my motor as I can, including vacuum lines.

Since my motor had a 2 barrel on it, will I run into any trouble with throwing that intake on with a 4 barrel? Probably a stupid question I apologize. anyway I really appreciate the help!

 

The casting # is probably 3932441. The "2441" at the end is clear enough, which is good enough to identify them. 69-70 350 heads, 76cc chambers. The large chambers will make compression low, but at least you have flat top pistons.

I completely understand about budget. And Harbor Freight (there's a store 2 blocks from my house - you can imagine what that means). Hopefully the cylinders aren't pitted. Just go easy on the hone - all you really want to do is put a crosshatch in the cylinder wall to help the new rings seal. Don't try to get out all of the imperfections, or you'll have loose pistons in the bore.

The head surfaces really look nasty - hopefully they'll clean up with resurfacing. A shave will also help increase compression (a little). Check the piston to block surface distance, shoot for a total of .040" when you choose a head gasket (Ex: if the pistons are .025" down in the hole, get a head gasket that has a compressed height of .015").

The Performer intake is fine.

You aren't going to want a lot of cam. This should do:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...make/chevrolet

Are your rockers all rusted up? Why were you thinking of replacing them?

The T5 requires the use of a 153-tooth flywheel (168 won't fit in the bellhousing). That means you need a 3rd gen starter. Make sure your block has the bolt holes required to mount the proper starter - do that NOW! It's much easier to drill, tap, and ream the proper hole now while the engine is apart than it will be when you're laying flat on your back trying to mount the starter and discovering there is a bolt hole missing. Being a 1969 block, most likely it does NOT have one of the required holes.

 

Ill keep that in mind when honing out the cylinder walls, ill only lightly score the walls. In regards to measuring the distance from the piston to the block ill have to check that this weekend. I go to a Maritime Academy and am only allowed to go home on the weekends. That does not leave me much time to work or check things. Will a distance of .040 potentially raise my compression ratio or is that a baseline thickness to have? DO you recommend any certain type or brand of gasket?

That is exactly the sort of cam I was looking for, and cheaper than I first though! I figured I would be dropping 300 on a cam. The rockers on the heads do not seem to be in that bad of condition. My buddy recommended I change them, for what reason I do not know. I figured it would be smart to get fresh springs rather than run tired springs from god knows when. Would it be worth the investment for new heads? rather than resurfacing them getting new springs potentially rockers? I could get a set for around 300-400 bucks and if having a machinist resurface them and put all these new components on it, wouldn't it be worthwhile to spend an extra 100 bucks on new heads? Just a though I do not know how cheap aftermarket heads could be quality wise. They don't make steel like they used to back in the 60's that's for sure. Its a bummer these heads are really low compression as well. I was figuring I was going to get around 10-5-1 compression with them. That being said with these heads and pistons, with a gasket that potentially makes a distance of .040 from piston to block, what would my compression ratio be around? 8-5-1?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...make/chevrolet

Thanks for the information on the starter! that's something I haven not read up on, ill have to do that before I go home for the weekend so I know what im looking at. What cars could I get a 153 tooth flywheel off of? most Chevy 350 flywheels from 82-92ish? I work at a junkyard so I can get a lot of parts off cars from 93-2012. They have 1 third gen Camaro but it has a 305 in it, and I think they are selling the whole motor in one piece. They think there is all kinds of money in the 305 because it has a chrome alternator bracket.. figures right? Thanks for the help!

 

Any flat tappet camaro or firebird 305 should have the right flywheel. I know the 1984 firebird flywheel works with my T5 and 1979 block.

http://www.summitracing.com/expertad...ion-calculator

Use the compression calculator

The T5 should hold fine with this combo, just don't miss 3rd.

Get new springs and roller rockers.

These seem to be popular and budget friendly. I would trust them more than the china version.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...4-16/overview/

Don't bother with 60s steel. Personally for low budget medium performance builds I LOVE world products S/R or 1.94 heads. There is not much difference in flow between their 1.94 and 2.02 valve versions but th2 2.02 likes porting more. They are thick and great For a budget build. Also made in America

http://www.ebay.com/itm/sb-sbc-Chevy-Chevrolet-67cc-World-Products-SR-Performance-Heads-2-02-1-60-042660-/400683388469?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d4a974e35&vxp=mtr
Those summit heads also look interesting.

Do you have the manifold yet? Vortec is also an option with that cam.

 

Except 1986. It has one-piece rear main seal and flat tappets.

Either the Summit or World heads would be a good choice. Ready to run. But, the Summit heads have 72cc chambers, only a little better compression-wise than your 441s. If you can swing them, go the new head route - by the time you put springs, guides, shave the 441s, and especially if you have hardened exhaust seats and valves installed, you'll have more in them than the Summit or World heads would cost.

Speaking of Vortec, if you're willing to spend a little extra cash for a Vortec Performer (the Summit version is $145), these Summit heads would be even better for the same price:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...make/chevrolet

They are for 7/16" studs. Most SBC studs are 3/8". So, these: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...make/chevrolet

Agreed. Mid-80's on casting quality is much, much better.

 

Thanks for the updates

 

Thank you for the research! If I run those Vortec Heads and intake, will I need to change my cam from your recommendation from before? The RPM range is from idle to 6,000. Will this combo still work? I do not think 500 RPM's makes that big of a difference but when calculation CFM's for carburetors, once you go over 5500 to about 6000 the CFM's skyrocket. Am I over analyzing this observation? I have shorty headers they are I believe 68470 summit brand or something like that? I can remember the number exactly but its very close to that. The number matches a set of Headman headers but without the logo on them.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...make/chevrolet

So I decided im going to do everything right any build the motor the way it should be built. Im shooting between 250-325 horse for my final product, although its going to take me some time to build. This being a 2 barrel smogger from 69 what should I keep in mind? If I get those Vortec heads and intake it will boost my compression and give me a lot better flow. How significant could this be? Im going to scrap the old heads and get a couple bucks and sell the performer intake. Should I worry about running the original pistons in the motor?

Ill send the block to a machine shop and get new crank bearings installed along with boring out the cylinder walls. Anyone know any machine shop cheap in Mass?

So I can take most any flywheel off a 350 from that era as long as it has 153 teeth and a 2 piece rear main seal, Did I get that right? Which brings me to my next item.. a clutch.

When researching flywheels it seems as though I need a 10.4 inch clutch. is this correct or can I run a basic 10.5? What would work with my T-5? I posted a picture of the numbers off my transmission. I was told it was a World Class T-5 out of an 87 Camaro. With my being a 2.8 from 1983 what do I need to change as far is linkages and stuff anything? will the slave work? Thanks for the help guys somethings I can look up and some things I have not been able to find or get a clear answer.

 

Got my block down into the basement cleaned it all up the best I could and its still pretty filthy.. Lifter journals are still nasty and the pistons have a scale on them that wont come off with just a little diesel and easy wiping. Found this motor on craigslist for pretty cheap:

http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/pts/4447333613.html

block casting is 3914678, which tells me its a 302 327 or 350. I do not have the id number so I will not be able to positively identify the block until I get that number, although in the ad he claims its a 1968 350.

300 bucks ill have a decent block that I wont need to hone or bore. Ill also be getting a timing chain, balancer, oil pan, cam, lifters, oil pump, and a set of heads! not sure on what cam and heads exactly, if they are in good shape at all ill probably buy that motor and scrap my old one. I was only in it 100 bucks, by scrapping the motor and having the performer intake ill be breaking even so im not mad. If the heads are really restrictive I might just try to sell them and get a good set and maybe matching cam.

Anybody think this is a good deal? I feel as though it seems like a good block to work off of. Not trying to trash my block now, im just afraid I have a crack in it or im going to need serious machining thats going to cost more than its worth, especially with junk heads. Thoughts?

 

Cool, a local 83 V6 carb guy doing a V8 swap! Maybe we can help each other out haha

Let me know if you convert over to the hydraulic style clutch before I do!

Saw this engine if you're still searching: http://nh.craigslist.org/pts/4408346181.html

As for the T5 behind the engine... be easy on it if you have anymore than stock power. They just aren't built for abuse and the 1987 model is the weaker non-World Class style. 88-92 is the one you want to try and find but it isn't easy! Took me forever to find a good rebuilt one.

We'll have to go up to the drags when we get the swaps done! haha

 

Ill have to look into that motor if the one im currently watching turn out to be more trouble than its worth. I found a guy selling an aftermarket goodwrench 350 for pretty cheap. It will give me decent power, while having a low compression ratio so I can run on 87 pump gas. Ill be taking a look at it this weekend!

Its good to know someone else is doing the same swap I am, I feel as though people see the sport coupes and dont even bother with them..

In regards to my clutch I think im going to just keep it a mechanical linkage. Honestly people are just lazy, adjusting a manual clutch is not that hard, and you can fix them yourself and mickey mouse something to fix it in an hour. Ask me how I know haha. Personally although im 20 I feel as though I was born in the wrong generation. I hate electronics I have a basic phone. Manual everyhthing is the way to go, Ill never have to worry about my rear hatch not openeing or my windows not rolling up or down,

Ill have to take you up on that offer, although I am not going to be beating on my car much once I get it on the road with the 350. I want it to be a fun car as its not my daily driver, but since I dont have the World Class t-5 I have to be extra careful. We will have to go cruising sometime, a few of my buddies have third gens we could all have a cruise night or something?

I know a guy who is selling a 3.73 posi with rear disk brakes that im going to be picking up with tubular control arms for 200$! im pumped.

We can help each other out along the way, if you have any questions just ask we might be able to fill in each others gaps. Good luck!

 

I had a lead on a 383 but I think the guy sold it. Still looking for a good 350/383, soon as I find the right deal I'm gonna tear that 100hp slug outta there!

I know what you mean about wanting it all mechanical and manual, I'm the same way. Less to break, less wires to trace... and less chance of the mess burning to the ground lol

Totally down for a cruise night or something. Need car buddies... no one around here really!