So my favorite (ex-fav anyway) chevy dealership pretty much blew up my 305 after I gave them 1200 for a damn fuel pump RnR (i know I got ripped but I didnt have tools or a garage at the time) and now they admit its their fault but since my whole engine needs replacing they wont cover it. They even fired the guy who did it. Jesus. Anyway while I wait to take them to court Im fixing up my baby. Cant stand not driving her.

So i know a bit but not a lot. All i need is a lil direction if anyone would be so kind.

Stock 89 Firebird Formula. 305 TPI.

Buying a reman'd 383 and gonna pay a mechanic to dump it in.
(a good one this time he is famous here in vegas for working on muscle cars.. not cheap tho)
Problem is everyones so happy to take my money theyre not telling me the whole rub.
I find it hard to believe itll just match up simply because its a bored 350.

So Im hopin someone can shed some real world light ive looked this up and couldnt find a direct answer.
The 383 im buying comes with Cam, Flywheel, Oil Pump.
Im guessing Ill need a new water pump, thermostat, maybe even new radiator, new transmission, and new spark plugs.
Am I correct and is there anything else I will need.

Engines rated 420hp 430ft lbs
The engine:
http://pmcmachine.com/index.php?main...products_id=96

These guys are great JEGS are official supporters.

 

A Small Block Chevy (SBC) can have many displacements, from 265 up to 400ci. The external dimensions are all the same. The (internal) displacement is a simple matter of bore and stroke.
305ci = 3.736" bore x 3.48" stroke
350ci = 4.000" bore x 3.48" stroke
383ci = 4.030" bore x 3.75" stroke (350 bored +0.030" with a crank from a 400ci, or aftermarket crank).
383ci = 4.000" bore x 3.80" stroke (current Chevy crate engine)

The radiator and trans may or may not need replacing. If the current parts work with the 305, they will work with the 383.

Are you keeping the TBI? If so, needs reprogramming for the larger engine... needs more fuel. If not, then you are dealing with a TBI to carb/port injection conversion.

Hopefully, the 383 comes with crank, rods, pistons, heads, timing chain, cam AND lifters, pushrods, rocker arms, etc. Which is called a "long block". Reuse the accessories (alt, power steering, smog pump, AC), reuse the exhaust manifolds (choke the bigger engine) or replace with headers, add you choice of intake/fuel delivery.

Good luck!

 

Be sure to keep all your receipts, time spent and document everything! (If you're really going to take them to small claims court). Regardless of how you handle that, have you contacted GM Customer Assistance Center? I'd suggest it, GM is taking a completely different customer centered attitude about issues that come up. Just keep in mind that each dealership is an independently owned company, however, GM will get involved to discuss the issue with the dealer and encourage their participation in making it right for you.

To answer your question, yes it will fit. There's an all you need to know thread on here about swapping in a 350, I'll post it if I can find it again (and because a 383 is a bored and stroked 350, it will mostly be the same). I say mostly, because you'll need different tune, injectors, etc. (if you're going EFI) and you'll desire a better flowing intake, exhaust, possibly heads, because the 383 needs to breathe more than the 305 you're pulling out.

 

Swapping to a engine with that much more power than stock will require at the very least a transmission upgrade. Stronger clutch or torque converter will be required. If you want a reliable driver i would suggest a stronger aluminum drive shaft as well as a beefier differential. Plus cooling becomes more of an issue at that power level requiring a better radiator.
However all your accessories should bolt right up.

 

Thanks so much for quick replies guys

So its a TPI not a TBI
I will be getting a FIRST TPI to replace my stock one to solve the breathing
Im glad you brought up driveline because I read in a thread somewhere that
If your car rattles at certain speeds its probably a bad driveline
So aluminium driveline, check
Transmission upgrades? So I dont have to replace the whole tranny? Would that save me money and/or be cost effective? What parts do I upgrade?
Its an AUTO. As it stands was thinking of swapping in a manual tranny myself after the engine swaps done.
It is a long block thankyou tho I didnt know if it wasnt Id need all that

 

So what im getting is that I wont NEED anything immediately however I will want to upgrade other parts to get my moneys worth. Ok, cool thats what they told me.
I am worried about my tranny busting tho, so Ill do that right after the swaps done.
Can anyone recommend good drivelines and differentials for speed not economy?
And if I were to get a new tranny, would I still need to get a cooling system for it?
IDK anything about tranny coolers btw im researching now however.

 

So one who has a greater knowledge of this swap can chime in to give you specific examples of parts. It is a good idea to cool your transmission and a very easy mod. Simply two hardlines comming out of the transmission going to the cooler in front of your radiator.

 

I saw TBI in your profile. Please correct it, so others won't make the same mistake.

TPI + FIRST means you can keep all the electronics, and mostly replace the manifold. Add a little for the aftermarket AFPR and hoses. That is a mostly bolt on hard parts and have a nice day swap.

I think you mean driveshaft and vibrations. Rattles are loose bits of metal, wire and plastic banging against each other.
Aluminum is NOT REQUIRED to have a quality driveshaft. It is a performance upgrade. A quality 3" or 3.5" steel shaft can be every bit as smooth as AL.

Correct. An auto (700R4) can built (re)built to handle higher power levels. This is another job that your skill level will likely need to outsource. Search for Dana & Pro Built Transmissions; he has provided great information here on TGO. Review

An auto will be cheaper, and easier on the rear end (no 5000 rpm clutch drops). A T5, 5speed manual trans can live behind higher HP, the factory never put it behind the (stock) 350 for a reason. For a reliable manual, you are into T56 territory. Unless you can find a screaming deal, and/or willing to buy and part out a 4th gen mostly for the trans, you are looking at $2k - $3k to get it done,