So prior to fixxing my boat anchor i stumbled upon a nice running vortec 350. 140k miles out of a suburban. Got it a couple days ago and started the swap last night. I should have taken a picture of all the crap that came off that I didn't need. The vortec fuel injection.
Any who, ill post pictures later, but as of right now, Im stuck on gettin the bad boy in! i have it literally sitting on the input shaft (t5) and At one point it was almost all the way on. It got bumped a bit and now its further away. is there a way to rotate the input shaft to spin while someone is pushing the engine into place? Suggestions ASAP! Please and thanks ahead of time!

 

Put it in 4th or 5th gear, stick the drive shaft in it, twist the drive shaft.

 

Ooh lordy. I was trying to twist the shaft with it not in gear! Hers a couple pictures next post!

 

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui...7360-local0&zw

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui...7360-local1&zw
https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui...7360-local2&zw

I think this should work...

 

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui...8432-local1&zw

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui...8432-local0&zw

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui...8432-local2&zw

Thats my neighbor buddy from the night before! He was pretty excited to see the anchor move! Changin his mind on him liking ford

 

But heres a little bout the eninge. The guy pulled from his burbn at 140k because his trans was slipping bad. So I bought it for $250. I junked all the truck stuff to keep budget down and simplicity. There was a little sludge on the top enf from having 140k, the bottom end looked gorgeous golden, so he changed his oil pretty much on time it looked like.
Only money i spent on this whole swap so far is, the GMPP intake I had, The oil, Coolant, some extra vacuum hose and fuel line. had to modify the fuel line because there was a vacuum port on the back of the intake right behind the TB bores, so I had to trim the fuel line of at both ends and used some 7 inch peice of fuel line, clamped the badboy and put some rtv on for precausions. Woulda spent the time to make a new bend of fuel line, but this is a fast need to get the swap done. Other than the intake, engine, gaskets, I had to borrow the oil adapater from my 305, I had to buy a assortment of plugs and a vacuum adapter for the brake booster. Other than that, I have roughly spent $650ish. Thats including the engine, intake, and new starter because my old one had a terible Bendix. Ill post the exact list after i go spin the bad boy.

 

I also had to buy a 350 ecm, as well the list needs 65lbs injectors, and a fpr spring. Like a bigger one. The ECM was $45 bucks and free shipping so This swap is going to be a little over $720+ bucks.So heres the list.

1) Vortec 350; 140k miles= $250
2) GMPP intake; used= $250
3)Oil Adapter;used from my boat anchor=Free!
4) Oil, Coolant, Wix filter; New=$40
5)93 copcaprice ecm+65lbs injectors+fpr spring $103
6)New starter 1 year warranty=$63ish
7) Some new fuel line, vacuum line, extra clamps, intake gaskets, rtv=$22ish
Things that were reusable was the flywheel, clutch, Throttle body, air cleaner, EGR valve, Starter(bought a new one), trans, oil adapter The whole serpentine system, Headers header bolts. I was also to able to reuse all of the vacuum line plus some new ones since the egr is located in the front instead of the back.

 

There you can see the egr in the front and the assortment of some vacuum lines.


https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui...2544-local0&zw


Heres the begining to the engine going in, and then after it got a little further than that is where I have been stumped. Went and turned the driveshaft with it in gear and it feels like its sitting on the input shaft engough that it isn't grinding, So it has to be almost al the way on, I'm just having troubles with it getting all the way back. Here are some photos and a nice New(rented Will get money back) Hoist!
https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui...6192-local1&zw

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui...6192-local2&zw

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui...6192-local3&zw


https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui...6192-local0&zw


Anyone have any ideas? Just a little push and shove fest I'm Hoping. If I get it on the trans tonight, and bolted all down, I'll start early and get the girl runnin! Ill try and post a video or something after Its all together and in!
Also Ask questions if you are wanting to know anything!

 

So I spent a little more time turning the driveshaft in gear, and it is definitely sitting inside the engine, I'm just having troubles getting it on the rest of the way. Just waiting for my friend to get back and we are gonna try and get it the rest of the way in.

Heres a pic of my ECM! https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui...3280-local0&zw

 

Got got all cleaned up after getting it on and the motor mount bolts in! Will have more updates tomorrow!!!

 

What headers are you using?

 

You realize we can't see those pictures right? They are attachments in your gmail account which we can't see as we can't login to your gmail account lol

Upload them to photobucket or something then link them.

 

.

 

Im using the 2460's, with a crappy y pipe and obx stainless. The y pipe hangs lower than my ex member so it is kinda flat at the moment...
And I didn't know that aout the had to be logged into my email!!

Also anyone have quick diagram how the starter is wired up? I took a picture of it but its kinda bad quality so its hard to see.

Heres my photobucket. For whatever reason it uploaded them twice so My apologies. You can see the vortec before with all the vortec fuel injection on it and then the one while it rests on the tire is what it looks like now.

http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/91...?sort=3&page=1

 

ooh, also After I just finished up the exhaust getting it bolted it on, I noticed I forgot my dust shield from my clutch/flywheel/ trans.. The thing that sits infront of the trans but behind the block... I apologize for a possibly dumb question but is it really needed? i know automatics don't need them really, but I'm really not wanting to go back and remove the trans housing bolts since those were hard than all get out...

 

Any fitment issues or mods needed with the t5?

 

Nope! Only things that will need to be swapped from engine or bought is a oil filter adapter, I pulled mine from another block, and the engine thermostat, the thing on the drivers side head, the vortec block one was broken. You can use the factory vortec oil to radiator or trans cooler or oil cooler set up but rubber hoses and hot headers don't mix. I was actually quite lucky installing the engine. First try it when on the the proper splines on the input shaft with no problem. I just couldn't get it all the back the way i had it angled. Now I'm stuck on whether I should remove the bellhousing bolts and put the dust shield in. I'm pretty much right next to starting it. Just the radiator computer and getting the starter bolted in. But The dust shield is what is holding me back right now, other than is 30 degrees outside, and maybe 40 in the garage, I gotta warm up a tad lol...

 

Also if you keep egr and all the vacuum and use a GMPP tbi manifold, you are going to have to finangle the **** out of some stuff with the coil bracket and the throttle bracket. I had to cut the throttle bracket down abit.

This swap can be done without egr, just get a performer rpm intake and drill some vacuum ports for the brake booster and the dizzy.

 

I'm enjoying this thread. Keep updates coming!

 

I just had to put in the dust shield for the trans since i forgot that and that was a time waster. All thats left is to double check grounds, starter and starter wires, radiator and fluids. And timing it. To make sure I didnt forget I filled up the filter with oil before I put the engine in, and then when the trans bolts were making me bend wrenches I decided to take a break and watch the oil go in. Haha I also have to install the computer. Hoping the next hour to have it all ready to go!!

 

Alright So I got the ecm in, i got it timed (best i could for now) radiator back in ready for coolant, oil in, plug wires one. the only thing left is the starter. And its not bolting up right. I asked for a 1991 camaro 305 starter, but the dust cover bolt is in the way, and if I lift it over the bolt, it runs into the guard on the dust cover for the starter. I re used my same flywheel and clutch, so I don't know what I'm missing. Any ideas? This is all it needs to be started.

 

So big update! I had purchased the wrong starter. I got one for a truck. If you use your same flywheel, flexpate, and same starter on a vortec swap it will work. I just asked for a 1991 v8 starter for a flywheel. Bolted right up and hooked up no problem! Bout to take a video and a couple pictures. Cant wait!!!

 

So verdict is a couple things. I can get it to rev decently without any load and idle okay, but as soon as is try to take it for a drive, or even giving it some throttle is kinda bogs. Also, in the new pictures I'm posting and a crappy video on my photobucket. I have a huge vacuum leak. It seems to be plugged, but its my brake booster. I'll upload the pics where I have it located. The factory brake booster hard line was on the side of the intake below the carb. The one i have it in now is the brass fitting, running a vacuum hose. Its pulling hardly any vacuum making my brakes like cement. Any ideas? Also, using a 1993 cop car ecm, I'm suppose to use a 350 electronic spark control module, the pancake thing correct? Sorry for the jumbling of words... Also, the pics im including of the front of the intake, should I run a brake booster line from there instead? I am posting on where I had the vacuum located right now...

 

First pictures are where the vacuum for the brake booster is set up at. By the way I have the GMPP tbi manifold.

 

The next ones are the front of the GMPP TBi intake where I dunno if I could run vacuum outa? I really don't want to have to remove the intake and drill a new vacuum hole... Any ideas??

 

Here are the pics hopefully if it loads...

 

Here is a guy who ran his brake booster line off of where I'm running a line that runs to the charcole canister? Its the peice that has a T on it, one goes to the MAP side and the other runs to the Charcole cansiter.. Would that be okay plugged?

Props to 89RS, Thanks for the Photo!

 

Post #24 - that looks it is a coolant port.
#26 - definitely coolant ports.
#27 - that is a vacuum port. Either plug it if not used, or you can draw for your brakes and Charcoal can.

 

Would I be able to run a T fitting for the dizzy and the distributor? Out of that vacuum port. Would that create enough vacuum for the brakes? Im hoping I can jut run a T fitting and some rubber hose instead of the factory hardline from there.

 

Sounds like your tune is off, which it will be

You need a solid 20 psi of fuel pressure, substantially more timing, and a large dose of AE fuel to get the Vortec head setup to not bog under load.

Try the 305 ECM, it will actually deliver more fuel than the 350 ECM. The 305 ECM has a higher BPWC setting than the 350, which increases the injector pulsewidth and duty cycle.

 

So switch back to my 305 ecm?? And also, I am going to have to get a higher spring for the fuel pressure regulator. is there a specific fpr spring I need? the one that rated from 20-45? Then use my 305 instead of my $50 police ecm.. So was that a waste?

 

So I swapped out the ecms for the 305 one, and it seemed to idle okay for like 10 seconds then it would die...I'm still waiting on my injectors. the 65lbs ones. I could go to summit and get a higher fuel pressure regulator spring. Then get a fitting for the vacuum to run my brake booster and my Map off of. That should work right? Or does the dizzy vacuum line need its on vacuum fitting? Also, do I have to use the a hard line for the brake bootser... And the ae fuel, Did you mean like 92? As of right now there is just 87 in there since it's the cheapest in my area.

But those list of things should make it run correctly right? Im also going to invest in a set set of plugs since I made mine suer rich trying to start it all and the good stuff...

 

What injectors are in the throttle body currently??? The 305 ones?? If so I wouldn't even try to drive the car because you could melt a piston or burn a valve from being so lean under load.

As for AE....AE stands for Acceleration Enricmhment and it is something programmed into the chip. You will not be able to adjust it without changing the tuning. It is equivalent to an accelerator pump in a carburetor. Lack of pumpshot will cause a lean stumble and in extreme cases a backfire fthrough the TBI.

The reason I mentioned running the 305 ECM or chip is because it is programmed richer than a 350 ECM.

Frankly I am suprised the 350 ECM runs a Vortec 350 at all with the 305 injectors.

What dizzy vacuum line are you talking about? A TBI car should not have a vacuum advance distributor. Your MAP sensor needs to be on its own fitting on the rear of the TBI unit. The PCV and powerbrakes can share a vacuum fitting, but this is not ideal.

 

No wonder it was backfiring like a 22... I'll remember to try to not start it again...

Yes. Im running 305 TB and Injectors. There was some Home depot scandal and my card was in the mist of possible hacked accounts all because I bought a damn candy bar, so now i gotta wait till I go back to my home town to get my card since my current one doesn't work anymore.

The vacuum line Im talking about is the one that goes to the MAP is what I meant. Which is where 89RS post #27 has his brake booster at. So I have a breather on the driver side, and then a pcv on the passenger. Should I run the brake boost from the breather drivers side or the passenger side pcv, Also, How do you remove the pcv valve if I'm not using it,, I probably should be though for the brake booster Im assuming. By the way, Im using the factory vortec valve covers on the 350, i didnt change them. Should I?

So If I got the 65lbs injectors, with a 350 throttle body it would run most likely properly with the 305 computer? A Thus not needing a complete tune?(for a little till i get a chip or a custome tune....)Also, the 350 tb's are the same as the 305's right? The 454 tb's were 2 inch bores...

And If I were to do some data logging, and then printed out the air fuel ratio's would You or possibly someone burn me a chip for a fee instead of tune? Nor do I not have the ebl set up or any other, I also dont have the adl cables for the laptop. Although I have a buddy at work who has a thuthang foxbody who does tuning, but for fords. So his cables could be able to hook up to my set up so to speak, and then get some airfuel ratios.

 

So little update. I have the vacuum routed through a breather/pcv hole, plugged the front vacuum line I had. About to go get a clean 350 injector pod and Throttle bodyand injectors. Im possibly going to do the Ultimate TBi mods, shave down the wall and smooth it all out. Possibly do the throttle bar smoothing as well. I work tonight though, and school tomorrow as well as work, so Thursday should have an update again. Should I still run the 305 ecm with the 350 injectors? They are standard 61lbs I believe, or should I go with the cop ecm? I will also eventually purchase a fpr spring since I have a new fuel pump, but I dont think its a tpi pump, I do not remember. Any more answers?

 

Updating, I got a new fuel injector pod, with part #235206. Looked it up and it is suppose to be 55lbs? and my 305 injectors are listed at 4o or something. They also say, 55lbs injectors are orange/black. My 305 injectors are also orange tipped and probably black (haven't pulled them out of the pods) So what is going on here?

I have a TBI guy near me in vaccouver who said he is going to program a chip for one of my ecu's to make my car rive normal. Sp Im hoping this will be the deal breaker here.

To get 62lbs injectors or 65lbs, would that be enough without having to change my fpr spring?

 

So I got my brain back and the TBI man tuned it to run normal. Tuned it for the specs of the cam and such, changed it around a little. He said he was able to make the 305 one useable for the 350 than the cop one. So there goes 45 buckss. It is now for sale. Charging the battery and then I'm gonna try and runn'er. I'll keep ya'll a posted!

 

So, my buddy and I spent many hours swapping wires, turning the distributor, swapping out bad plugs and all that is going on is that it just sits there and cranks. It would crank till the battery would die pretty much. We set the timing by pulling out #1 plugs and setting it at tdc and it still isn't working... Suggestions?

 

Also, checked spark, checked fuel, and by the looks of it its spraying in a cone, but it looks like a lot is comin out. we can't figure out what it is...

 

So big update! I took a little break and a nap and such and yeaterday after I fiddled with the dizzy and re timed it after I rotated the engine over a full firing order a few times. After it flooded its self I unpl ugged the injectors and there was enough fuel to start it. Then hopes out and plugged them badboys in. I got it runnin okay enough to go get gas. Turned it off and then it was a struggle to start it. Had to leave the throttle bores open a little bit. So then got it home. And me rushing things like I normally do, I forgot tobinplug that brown and black wire while I timed it. It was so advanced. Like I couldnt see the timing marl on the balancer. So now after I timed it I turned it off and now it wont start. Juat keep movin the distributor till it holds and idle then unplug that wire and set the timing right? Any other possibilities its runnin funky still?

 

Okay so big update!! It's alive!! I eventually just rotated the engine over the firing order like # times or so again. Then found TDC. Turned it on, rough rough idle, Turned the dizzy to get a decent idle. Whipped out the Timing light and got it between 2-6ish advanced( no timing mark on the timing chain cover, so it was hard to see it, so edumacated guess)
She runs like a charm. Still burning off the richness of the plugs since they were blacker than Satans soul. Only thing I still need to do is hook up tachometer, and find an oil pressure sensor? Theres one at the top of engine on the backside... But its broken. Is that what that is? Or is there one on the bottom of the block just like my little 305?

I'll have exhaust video's and some drive bys this week for you guys before I got Loud mouth set up!

 

Okay so One thing I forgot about possibly during the swap is a pilot bushing or bearing. If i kept the same stlye 1 peice main seal should i have to replace the pilot bushing/bearing? I don't know why but my trans makes it sound like i got a supercharger under there, only in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd, 4th and 5th sound fine. Any ideas?

 

A pilot bushing is not needed for an automatic. If you didn't luck into having one by default, then you will be removing the transmission soon to rebuild it when the input shaft bearings fail.

 

OOO cool have to follow as I am going to be doing this swap next month but with a carb.

 

Looks like Im pullin the transmission today...

 

I hope it doesnt break on my trip back to the dalles. Im gonna have to do that very soon.