will the shock tower bolts hold up the engine
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Joined: Mar 2011
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From: indiana
Car: 85 iroc z
Engine: air for now
Transmission: none
will the shock tower bolts hold up the engine
I'm about ready to unbolt things on the bottom I'm dropping the engine through the bottom instead of pulling from the top for a few reasons want to know if I unbolt Everything on the bottom will the shock tower hold everything up I'm using a car lift would rather not have an engine end up on my head
thanks
thanks Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 887
Likes: 17
From: Golden, CO
Car: 87 IROC
Engine: L31 350
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10 D44
Re: will the shock tower bolts hold up the engine
Please use punctuation. Periods and commas get their feelings hurt when left out. It also helps us understand what you are actually asking.
The general answer is; No. If you unbolt the K member, and try hanging the engine, trans, K member, suspension from the struts, something is going to let go, and there will be badness all around.
The general answer is; No. If you unbolt the K member, and try hanging the engine, trans, K member, suspension from the struts, something is going to let go, and there will be badness all around.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 41
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From: indiana
Car: 85 iroc z
Engine: air for now
Transmission: none
Re: will the shock tower bolts hold up the engine
Yes I'm dropping the k member with the engine. so I can swap in a lighter k member. and set the car back on the ls1 I plan to put in. so what would be the best way to go about this un bolt almost everything. and leave a few bolts that I can get to while the car is setting on the ground. sorry about the punctuation in last post my Hands were coverd in oil. and I just used the voice to text on my phone so I did not have to touch it.
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 887
Likes: 17
From: Golden, CO
Car: 87 IROC
Engine: L31 350
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10 D44
Re: will the shock tower bolts hold up the engine
Remove the front suspension: wheels, brakes, springs, struts, A-arms.
Then set the K member on something... floor jack, dollies, etc. You'll want to support the trans, too.
Unbolt the 6? bolts holding the K member to the chassis.
Lift chassis slowly.
Figure out what you've forgotten to disconnect.
Repeat until you've disconnected everything.
Then set the K member on something... floor jack, dollies, etc. You'll want to support the trans, too.
Unbolt the 6? bolts holding the K member to the chassis.
Lift chassis slowly.
Figure out what you've forgotten to disconnect.

Repeat until you've disconnected everything.
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 798
Likes: 3
From: Powder Springs, Georgia, USA
Car: 1992 Black Z28 Hardtop
Axle/Gears: 2002 10 bolt w/3:23
Re: will the shock tower bolts hold up the engine
This upcoming weekend I plan on removing my engine/trans out the bottom. I have the entire suspension out; everything is disconnected except a few hoses. I will complete disconnecting before I start to drop the engine. The rear wheels of the car are on 16" tall wood stands 9 x 2x12s X 18" long. The front end at this time is supported on frame jacks under the front sub-frame. I will install by hyd. cherry picker and then support from beneath the K-member with frame jacks to remove the K-member attach bolts once all is loose lift the weight off the K-member support jacks then lower the engine/trans to the awaiting dolly. Then lift the front of the body with the cherry picker high enough to roll the engine out from under the car. I may try MoJoe's idea of lowering front of the car to the dolly then unbolt and lift the chassis. Good thought. Probably should remove the trans first though. See guys, talking about it makes everything look so easy huh.
Last edited by 92BLKL98; Feb 10, 2015 at 01:49 AM.
Re: will the shock tower bolts hold up the engine
Id you unbolt the K-member with the struts still connected, the engine will violently drop about a foot
My process:
Drain fluids, unhook electrical and drape over intake, unhook all lines, remove trans crossmember, remove DS, unhook cables, unhook both front brake lines, rear can stay, unbolt brake hose brackets in fenderwells. Wrap a chain around the A-arm/spring to prevent it from shooting out when unloaded
Raise the car and loosen all 6 K-member bolts. Pick which one you can access the easiest. I prefer the middle on each side. Remove the other 4 bolts and centerlink to pitman/idler nuts and split the joints
Lower the car and remove the big nut on each strut tower. Remove the last two K-member bolts you already loosened
Slowly raise car off engine/trans. If it wants to lift up, you forgot to unhook something. Otherwise the car will rise and drivetrain stay put on the ground
My process:
Drain fluids, unhook electrical and drape over intake, unhook all lines, remove trans crossmember, remove DS, unhook cables, unhook both front brake lines, rear can stay, unbolt brake hose brackets in fenderwells. Wrap a chain around the A-arm/spring to prevent it from shooting out when unloaded
Raise the car and loosen all 6 K-member bolts. Pick which one you can access the easiest. I prefer the middle on each side. Remove the other 4 bolts and centerlink to pitman/idler nuts and split the joints
Lower the car and remove the big nut on each strut tower. Remove the last two K-member bolts you already loosened
Slowly raise car off engine/trans. If it wants to lift up, you forgot to unhook something. Otherwise the car will rise and drivetrain stay put on the ground
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 4,767
Likes: 63
From: Trumbull CT
Car: 87 TA clone
Engine: 70/70 Turbo 5.3 LS
Transmission: bullet proof 2004R
Axle/Gears: ford 8.8, 3.55 gears
Re: will the shock tower bolts hold up the engine
All you need to get is a cheap engine support bar.. you can make one for like $20 or buy one like from harbor freight for $80. If you do it right you could lower the motor by itself without the Kmember. I had this supporting my BBF in my 87 firebird for over 2 months while I swapped in a Moly Kmember and tabbed New motor mounts.
All you need is a safe way to lower the motor on chains or cable. A cheap 1500lb or $50 2500lb electric winch sounds perfect.
All you need is a safe way to lower the motor on chains or cable. A cheap 1500lb or $50 2500lb electric winch sounds perfect.
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