will it all fit under a stock 86 camaro hood,air cleaner has a drop,what about a/c compressor, motor has the newest serpentine belt system on it. thanks guys

 

yess

 

so a little background first of all, i did the R&R work back in 2010 on a very nice kept 86 z-28,truly one owner car. He had over 200k on a tired 305,motor was pulled redone added some nice stuff and got away from from ecm controlled motor and carb. Well the time has come to put more money into his car and get rid of the 305. I will be installing brand new turn key full dress GM sp350 from chevy. will be pretty straight forward, I will remove ecm and harness from car. but we will run A/C and Cruise control. Yes the A?C compressor and Alternator are on opposite sides of motor, The nice thing is that the A/C hoses needed are the same as a !991 tbi camaro so thats easy. Alternator plug will need to be changed.I will order motor on 12-11-15, have the headman headers already orderded without air tubes. I will remove all extra wiring garbage and everything will be soldered and shrink wrapped and put in new loom. this will not be a hack job and done correctly and proud to show off the work. Nice thing is, i have no reall budget restraints.just has to make sense.....i will post pics when motor arrives and take some of the car,there is pics in my old post of this car

 

What transmission are you planning on running? If TH700-R4, you'll need a TV cable corrector bracket to mount on the Holley throttle arm.

I believe the '86 cruise control requires the ECM to be on line (not completely sure about that, though - just may need the VSS buffer box). Of course, you could always convert to an older cable drive governor unit.

 

yes will be running a new 700 r4, tranny built to handle the motor, I bought the edlebrock cable holder for the vortech intake to house gas pedal,cruise control cable, and tranny cable.edlebroch said it will work will holley carb,if not I will get the right adapters. cruise control works already without the ecm, its bein ran without ecm for 5 yrs now with no problem

 

Motor,headers,fuel lines and a/c hoses and everything else I think I will need. that was a hard hit on the credit card. but its all good. I will start the swap the day after Christmas. I will post pics as the project starts to take off.

 

Will be following your install. Trying to decide on your engine,ZZ6 or 383. Will the oil pan work? why the header choice? Any reared plans?

 

The main thing for the kd cable is the proper geometry swing. The radius has to be right on. I recommend getting the kit, even if it says you dont need it. 25 bucks i think. pretty cheap insurance and then you know that that part is right so you shouldn't have any issues down the road. my 2 cents.

 

And the reason that is true is because it is not a "kick down" cable, it's a "throttle valve" cable.

 

I took your advice guys and got the correct stuff for the tv cable.waiting on motor and parts. stuff a little slow because of holidays.

 

kick down, throttle valve, passing valve. many names. all it does is adjusts pressure in the tran as you "kick down" the throttle for proper shifts.

 

Hey Z28... Man, just wanted to kind of point out there is something to a name.

I'm not transmission guy but here is what I know...

A kick down cable (detent) cable on like a th-350 trans connects to the detent valve and only works to force a 3 to 2 shift as the cable is pulled via opening the throttle more.

The 700 R4 uses a throttle valve (TV) cable, which changes line pressure in the trans and works, or is in action the whole time you are driving. It's much more than just a kick down cable

 

Incorrect.

Correct.

 

your right guys. I am just used to hearing the slang words and knowing what people mean. on the other hand we want these forums to be as accurate as possible so people KNOW what is going on. Sorry for the confusion and thank you for the correction guys.

 

Ok guys

 

Motor was delivered today

 

Nice valve covers.

I see they're using an 880 block. Nice. Are you using a mechanical fuel pump? I assume that didn't come with the engine, but the block is machined for it.

By the way, who did you get the engine from?

 

Got the motor from A Tech which is the wholesale division of summit racing

 

The motor comes complete ,ready to run.all fuel components,all ignition,everything.new starter,alternator,power steering pump,a/c ,water pump,pulleys,brackets and all misc hardware.you can't beat it for $6200.00 with a GM warranty.and all brand new everything.only thing I needed is new sending units,

 

Pics of car

 

Pics of car

 

I was just simply putting it that the cable, weather a detent or tv cable, that all it does is adjust the pressure in the trans weather it forces a 3 to 2 shift or is constantly adjusting pressure. I believe they are set the same both ways. wot.

 

Got the motor mostly put together and buttoned up,will be pulling old one out tomorrow

 

Got the old motor out,will pull ecm harness tomorrow and get it cleaned up for install of new motor.pulled a crap load of stuff that will not be re used and put up for sale,headers,edlebrock intake and carb,non ecm dist.msd box and tach adapter,a/c compresser,brackets,power steering pump,fuel pump,nice aftermarket GM aluminum valve covers and the list goes on.

 

More pics

 

I will get pics of parts in the next day or two and put them in the fore sale section with asking price

 

Got motor in car no issues,will hook it up tomorrow

 

Motor

 

The Sanderson headers fit like a dream,no issues at all.was able to install motor complete with headers and all installed on motor.could not be happier

 

Off to the exhaust shop in morning.

 

I will be firing motor for the first time tomorrow,I don't really expect and issues.

 

got motor installed completely,filled all fluids,had owner turn the key, i pumped the throttle a few times and it fired right up, choke was a little heavy,so i held it open.broke it in for 25 minutes @2000 rpms, brought her down to idle,adjusted idle mixture screws with vacum guage,holds a very nice steady 18 inches @ 700 rpms in park. Dist was supposed to be curved for motor but its not. paper work said 10 degrees @ idle and 36 degrees @ 4000 rpms, I set total timing to 36 degrees @ 4000 rpms. motor has 7 degrees @ idle. Car is going to shop to have it performenced tuned on the rollers.I will say that I am very happy with this project outcome. a little patients,decent check book and some time has proven to work out on this project. I hope thr trans will hold up...........

 

Very good, the motor looks very sharp

 

I am very happy with outcome.

 

Not sure why you're belaboring this. The only commonality is you set them at WOT. Their functions are completely different. The point is you can get a detent cable to work just by attaching it to the throttle arm most any ol' way. Not true with a TV cable.

 

Was there something with the engine instructions that said to do this? That's typically done to break in a flat tappet cam. Not necessary with roller lifters.

 

You always break in a new motor like that,I am a marine mechanic by trade and use four different engine manufacture s and they all say the same thing,high rpm 20 minutes,and yes GM said the same thing on break in.I do 20 to 30 motors a year at work and some outside of work.

 

Interesting approach.

 

Okay.

But the factory never did such a break-in in new cars. Even back in the flat tappet cam days.

No biggie. Not trying to start an argument. Just curious.

 

No argument,just follow the engine manufacture procedures,I always record break in procedure,and carb adjustment and timing numbers,so there can't be any question,I then down load to a disk and give it to owner for there records.

 

I have a question about what the engine sounds like at idle. The GM rep says it idles like a regular stock 350 but I find that hard to believe given the specs. I'm currently trying to decide between this engine and a 383 stroker (mild version).