I need some info on how to pull out my engine and trans, ive pretty much dissconnected as much as i could see of everything that was connected from the engine to the body, just basically need a list of everything ill need to disconnect, it is also manual transmission. I dont know how to disconnect the clutch from the tranny. Basically just need a list of everything ill need to disconnect. Its an 305 86 firebird

 

I just pulled my 305 out the other day so I will tell you how I did mine. Came out fairly easily.

First, disconnect everything and I mean everything. Hoses, wires, grounding cables, throttle cables, shifter cables, transmission cooler lines, you name it. I recommend keeping a set of bolt cutters close by just incase you need to cut something in a pinch as you're pulling the motor out. And make sure you drain al of your fluids, coolant, oil, trans fluid, and so on. Also make sure you soak all of your bolts that you are going to remove in penetrating oil since they will most likely be very rusty.

When you are lifting the car, lift up the rear end higher than the front. This will help prevent your transmission from grounding out when you begin to lift the motor. I'd say at least a foot higher than the front.

After you lift the car, jack up the trans just a bit and disconnect the crossmember. Be sure you put a jack under the trans or else it will drop quite a bit and could very well hit your head. After you remove the crossmember, remove the torque arm and drive shaft. There are two bolts holding the torque arm to the rear end. After you disconnect those, the torque arm should slide out from the rear. Next unbolt the U-joints that connect the drive shaft to the rear end. You might need to use a hammer and pry bar to remove the rod that keeps the two U-joints connected. I had to on mine since it was pretty rusted. After that, the drive shaft should slide right out from the trans. Be prepared for some fluid to leak out.

Next, unbolt the motor mounts that connect the engine to the K-member. Don't worry it shouldn't drop especially if you have a jack holding the trans up. Connect your chains from the leveler to the engine. There should be two brackets on the top of the motor, one on the front of the motor on the passenger side and the other on the rear corner of the drivers side. Depending on how long the boom on your engine lift is, you may have to lift the engine from the side of the car. I had to on mine and it worked just fine. Just make sure you cover your fenders with a thick blanket or something similar to prevent them from getting scratched.



Lift the engine lift just a few inches. After you do that, remove the jack from the bottom of the trans. The crane should be supporting the weight of the engine now so its ok to remove the trans jack. Lift the engine out slowly and adjust your leveler so that the trans is angled downward and as you are pulling the engine forward, keep lifting it at the same time. This will allow the motor and trans to come up at an angle so it won't hit the front. Make sure the motor does not hit the master cylinder or any brake/fuel lines. It will break them.







After the motor and trans clears the engine bay, set the motor down where you want to. I put mine on a dolly so I could move it around if need be. I will be taking it to the scrap yard though sometime this week. My 305 had oil in the coolant and the heads had been leaking for a while so mine was finished. Plus the only thing a 305 TBI is really good for is a boat anchor.

Most importantly though, be patient. Don't rush getting the motor out. Haste makes waste as I've found out the hard way numerous times. Also make sure you have at least one other person helping you. It's impossible to remove the motor by yourself. Anyways, good luck with the removal. What motor are you swapping in?

 

Is it mandatory to remove the torque arm and u joints? Or can i just let the driveshaft sit on the ground ? And im swapping in a 350

 

the torque arm can be unbolted from the transmission and can just sit in the car.. but it will have upward pressure and will rest against the floor boards.. the driveshaft will fall out of the back of the transmission as soon as you start pulling it out.. but so will all the trans fluid haha.. so you'll wanna drain it first.. but in the end.. it probably makes more sense to unbolt the driveshaft from the rear end (its only 4 little bolts) because it will make it that much harder getting everything lined up when dropping it back in.

 

The drive shaft will fall out but the torque arm stands a very good chance of bending. Its also another thing to get hung up on while pulling the engine. It will take you 15-20 min to remove both of them. It will make life much easier. I would absolutely remove the torque arm.

 

Okay thanks!

 

I just want to reiterate draining the tranny fluid first. Not draining it creates a lake of tranny fluid and it gets slick really quick. Not to mention is b**** to clean up....

 

So ive disconnected all i can see, only thing left is the fuel lines to what im assuming is the mechanical fuel pump on the front passenger side of the engine, and the motor mount bolts, i started to remove the fuel lines from the pump and it started draining fuel so i quickly plugged them back in, & i cant get the motor mounts bolts, im thinking ill have to remove the fuel pump to get the the one on the passenget side and the one on the driver side i just cant turn it hard enough to break it lose, any help?

 

tomtom,

Which cherry picker and leveler did you have in the pictures?

Would you buy them again for a SBC/trans. swap?

thanks