gmcdtlm

so basically i ran my engine low on oil today (unaware it was low) and now its knocking REALLY bad. i figure its probably toast and it will need to be swapped ASAP, and i figure if im going to swap it i might as well put in a 350.

Problem is im low on $ and i am not a master mechanic (although im confident in my ability to do the swap myself) so i was hoping i could get some input on what i need to know about the engine (new and old) while shopping for a new motor, to make it bolt up as easy and painlessly (cheap) as possible. here is some info on the current engine

1984 camaro 305 lg4
edelbrock carb
edelbrock intake manifold (will reuse both the intake and carb)
vacuum controlled distributor
all smog eqt removed
im pretty sure the ecm has been disconnected but cant confirm
stock 700r4

so what should i be looking for in my new 350 to make this a simple bolt up to the existing car/trans/accessories and if anybody could tell me anything else i might need. please keep in mind this isnt really for performance, im pretty broke, and i just need it to run (its my daily driver) thank you for any input.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Tell us about this "bad engine".

Replacing the castings may or may not fix whatever it is you think is "bad". Best to get a grip on that UP FRONT: what's REALLY "bad" about it, and what's REALLY "good" about the parts you intend to re-use.

gmcdtlm

i drive this car every day it has never knocked before. was running fine but notice loss of accelerate. when i parked it, it was not making any unusual sounds.... started it up about half hour later and it seemed like there was resistance when turning over. once it started i couldnt hear anything while idling but as soon as i hit the gas to accelerate i could hear it, very loudly knocking. popped the hood and still couldnt hear anything while idling but when i hit the gas its very loud.... not the "normal" kind of knocking.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Well if it seems that this knocking is coming from the short block, and you think it needs to be replaced, then to put in a 350, you will mostly need ... a 350. Not a whole lot else. Unbolt all that aftermarket stuff off the top and move it over, unbolt the accessories and water pump and such and move it over, etc.

You'll probably want to improve the exhaust while you're at it, since the LG4 exhaust was one of the major reasons that motor was so weeeeeeek to begin with.

gmcdtlm

looked more into it today, its for sure the rod knocking. the good news is that i already have a full exhaust so no upgrade will be necessary in that department ... is any gen 1 350 compatible with my current trans? does it matter if its 1 piece or 2 piece rms. should i be looking for one around the same year? can i(or should i) use the same torque converter?

my friend offered to give me a scrap truck (Free) with a good running 5.3 vortec in it (its a field truck it runs good its scrap because the frame is broke) would it be worth all the extra work to swap this in or should i stick to my plan of finding a 350 as they can be had pretty cheap locally. thanks again for any input

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Any 350 will work with any transmission & converter.

You'll need the correct flex plate for the RMS style.

If it was me, and I wanted a 350 as cheeeeeep as possible but still get something decent, I would ABSOLUTELY NOT buy a cheeeeeeeeeep rebuilt one. I would look for a low-mileage and/or well-maintained one out of a 96-2000 truck, and I would pay what it took to get it; and I would buy the correct intake to fit.

Can't say about "worth" of the other. Check the LSx swap board on this site for info, then you have to decide that for yourself.

novaderrik

the 96-99 engine is the way to go, but the cam doesn't have a lobe for the fuel pump so an electric one will be necessary... unless you swap in a different cam...

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

The small block chevy is the world's most interchangeable engine design. The basic gen 1 SBC from 1957 (once they added side engine mounts) up to 2000 is pretty much the same.

Uses the same trans bolt pattern, same head bolt pattern, etc.

A few changes happened over the years that can be worked around.. Like '57-67 short water pump, and no acc. bolt holes on end of heads, '86 up 1 pc rms , center bolt valve covers, center intake bolt hole changes, mech fuel pump pushrod hole and lobe.

Change flexplate to match the rear seal design.
Change intake or heads to match the head/intake bolt pattern
Change valve covers to match the head design