dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

I have had my car for 16 years now. Rebuilt the car a couple of times as a kid and now that I am an adult I want to do it again, but much better.

Thru all the years I have gone from HUGE cam, to N20, to Procharger...

Now in my mid 30's I just want a reliable motor that gets OK gas mileage that I can drive to work 3 seasons a year. I work about about 30 miles from home.

I still want to make good power, something north of 600 would be great.

Option #1: My 390 has been sitting for about 3.5 years so if I decide to keep it I will get it refreshed, dyno tuned, then add the blower, have that dyno tuned and slap that in the car, rebuild the T-56 and (from a 93 F-body, so gears are no longer available )call it done. Induction is thru a 750 CSU aerosol blow thru carb.

Option #2: (More $$$ and hassle but maybe worth it, but not sure.) Sell the motor, parted or as one unit, sell the trans and clutch. Buy something like a BPE forged LS long block with a blower happy cam. Buy a new 6 speed with the motor. Have it broken in by BPE and drop it in the car with a new engine control unit etc...

Option #2 seems like it is the safe bet for long term reliability but it also might add another year of saving up to execute the plan. I could do option #1 throughout this year (I think).

Just looking for some other informed opinions on here.

Thanks.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Nothing wrong with the sbc. Just get it fresh, pay attention to valvetrain for more daily driving type performance, get good efi tune (not just dyno) and it should be just as good as any ls for driving. Lot of fine tuning for highway mileage will be required but i dont see how it wouldnt work

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

What happened to option 3 lol...?

If you're just looking for something to drive and enjoy w/600 horsepower, I would consider buying an engine already done the right way. Like you, I'm getting older myself, and I'm not too fond of crawling or getting under engine bays anymore, especially after going through all that work and for something to break. I would just source a reputable builder, buy an engine with warranty, and enjoy your 600 horsepower. If you want to go power adder, I would consider and LSX w/roots blower. Turbo's and Centrifugal Superchargers are great, but not really needed...

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the quick replies.

One for option 1, one for option 2!

Orr - are you saying it would be best to go e.f.i and sell the blow thru carb?

motor has trickflow al heads now. Cnc chambers.
once fresh, not a bad motor, just not as smooth as a new LS.

I wouldn't be driving it everyday either, basically as much as I ride my motorcycle, sunny, no chance of rain days, not too cold.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

For ultimate ease of tuning and reliability, and mileage, efi is a must imo

Thats half the advantage of lsx's is using the stock efi systems. Sequential injection helps for driving manners and mileage

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Makes sense. I guess I am now faced with the bitter truth that the motor/trans/exhaust that I have will all not really work with what is best.

I will have to sell it all...

To be honest, the hassle of doing all that might outweigh the pros of the better LS EFI.

Do you think there is a middle ground that maybe would be not the BEST setup but GOOD?

Like maybe put some nicer heads on the motor, add some sort of good EFI that can deal with boost well, rebuild the trans and have it all dyno tuned by a good shop, for drive ability etc...??

I know very little about aftermarket efi and I have never seen anyone have the same Trickflow heads I have, so I assume they are junk Al heads. Not sure if this will matter for the sort of power and use I want out of the car. I only mention it because good valve train was brought up before and Trickflow does not sell these heads any longer.

I see people raving about AFRs all the time so thought I would bring that up.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I have no experience with trickflows but they are good heads. There are plenty of better options out there tho. I like afr but also a fan of profiler by chad speier. Spend alittle more but they are custom hand finished pieces setup for your build.

All i am saying is, a different efi intake like a efi single plane, ls1 throttle body and 90 deg elbow and something like holley hp efi will be all you need to do. Can use the trickflows but freshen them up with good springs. What cam is in the motor? Do you like it? Do you want it milder?

skinny z

Is not the biggest deal with an LS based engine about the cylinder heads?
There are other points that make it superior buts it's really about moving air in and out. They're so much better in fact that cam profiles have changed dramatically and the old rules of thumb with the early SBC's don't apply (as in appropriate LSA vs CID).
Now, all of that said, I find myself in much the same position although my target power goals are a little more modest. I've invested a considerable amount in the infrastructure what with exhaust systems, oil pans, crossmembers, not to mention all of the "little" parts that are Gen I specific. That's a lot to unload and even more to start again from nothing if the LS route is pursued. The LS swap cost is reduced somewhat with the junkyard engine approach, but I'm older than most of you (or all of you) and the idea of another swap after the junker bites the dust has zero appeal to me.
So...perhaps the most economical route is to invest in the best Gen I heads that are available, get a cam properly spec'd and supercharge it. I still like the screw type supercharger for their compactness. Add some EFI and you may achieve your goals on all counts.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I had trickflow heads that I did some mild bowl work on and was always happy with them. I wasn't able to get them flow tested to really brag about results though. Though I've not had personal experience, all the YouTube videos, articles and threads I've read say that a 5.3 or better yet 6.0L with a stock bottom end, an LS2 intake and throttle body and a turbo is good for 500 hp and reliable, just like you want. Negating the cost of transmission or LS swap parts that's $2000 or less for 500 reliable peak hp. Over 550 and especially 600 a stock bottom end becomes a real life time bomb. My current 383 with the AFR comp ports is probably just north of 400 hp and I have well over $2000 in it....

88Greg

Option 3: Drop that F1 on a stock 5.3 LS truck motor and make 750 HP. And save $$$$$

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Yeah, I went option 2. Just not into building anymore, and if you're as busy as me, you will want the creature comfort of having a warranty for when something breaks, and it will at that power level, don't fool yourself. You get great advice from the members on here, but we all break sooner or later. Imagine investing in an engine from say, Nelson Racing Engines. Getting to enjoy it all you want, and having the warranty from a superb engine builder like him who will take care of you when and if something happens. Yes, he is expensive, but it is worth it in the end.

Now.... where is the wife's check book lol.

As for LSX > SBC... try and tell Nelson that.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

To be honest Orr, I would need to dig to find the cam specs. I drove the car for all of 50 miles with the cam before I decided to garage it. No idea if I like it or not.

As for the heads, I agree they are not garbage, but nothing nice.

My goal is to avoid making something custom, or one off. I would like to find a motor setup that I like and is known to have good street manners and simply copy it. I don't want "hand made just for me" parts. I want minimal variables and ease of installation with expected performance. I know there are books upon books, as well as tons of websites that have "proven" combinations. Just not sure what would fit the bill for my build. To be honest I haven't looked all that much since I have been LS minded for the last month or so.

I have the benefit that I don't want to make more power later, this is it. I have spent way way to long messing with this particular car. I just want it setup once, right and done. No custom grinds that maybe make a bit more power, none of that sounds appealing. Just want to copy something good.

I guess I will start looking into aftermarket efi, I know very little.

But with that being said, are you all saying that the C&S blow thru carb will simply not give the drivability that I want?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Copying is not engine building. If you work with someone who knows what they are doing you can be assured you are gonna get what you want and need

What i meant by hand made was it was not mass produced. This means better quality, more attention to tolerances and details.

Mass produced bolt together combos are not exactly how to build higher hp reliable setups

Not sure what else to tell you. I guess you'll have to find someone running something similar to what you have in mind and drive it to see how it works for you. Probably not going to be easy to find

Or buy a LSA crate engine and pulley it down and tune. Reliable fun 600-650 whp.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Yes the cylinder heads have better valve angles and flow well per valve size in cathedral ports. Ls3 stuff have big valves and so so flow numbers for the valve size but its not all about bench numbers. Still have the lower valve angles and efficient chambers. Air doesnt like to turn. 23 deg sbc vs 15 deg ls..the ls will tolerate higher port airspeed

After that the lsx efi intakes are well tuned for 3500-6500 rpm street zones. Its a well matched setup.

Sbc needs bigger heads generally and abit tighter lsa. More cam to fill cylinders. Just the way it is but the better the heads and induction tuning gets, lsa can get wider. Either way doesnt matter much, both can do very well in power production . Just have to build for it.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Orr - I didn't mean that custom one off build are bad in any way. I just don't have any car buddies or relatives that are into this sort of thing. I have zero way of finding "someone who knows what they are doing". There are shops around me with dynos and such, but I am not sure who to trust on an engine build. That is why I stress that I want something I can copy. Then I can rely on less from them in terms of part selection and just rely on them only to do assembly well.



With everything that has been said here, I think a refresh of my current motor sounds like the most sane thing to do given my finances. I would have to wait too long to afford a Nelson racing engine or get an LS, plus make it strong enough for boost + trans + clutch... It all adds up fast.

It sounds like a rebuild (already have forged crank, rods and dished pistons) with some high quality heads, a good efi system, new cam maybe, and tune + the F1 should get me there within a year. That way I can just rebuild my trans and resurface my flywheel and be good to go.

Maybe the car will be lower in in the MPG department, but I won't be loggin HUGE miles, just 60 miles a day, maybe 3 times a week in the summer. I will still want to take my bike to work sometimes I would think.

Rain or too cold and I would drive my little V6 5th gen 6 speed that gets 30+MPG on the highway.

Migrating this conversation over to heads, cam, efi that is blower happy, does any one have suggestions on any of this? I will look into what holley has to offer.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Dennis, the Nelson Racing Engines was a stretch, I was just using them as an example, mainly because I'm the one considering them later on. Can find a pretty stout 600 horsepower package out there for a decent price with warranty, I think Nelson charges close to twenty grand for a naturally aspirated engine alone. But yeah, in your situation I would sell what I have, swap to LSX and EFI and go Magnachager. It's a good reliable package, and once you go LSX you will never go back. That's not to say that SBC's can't make the same power, they can, but there is just something about the LSX that will make you want to move forward in terms of technology...

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I would talk to steve morris before nelson. Havent heard much on nelsons results. Think hes overcharged. Morris actually has proven drag week and racing endurance success at up to 4000 hp

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Will you be tuning it or having a shop do it? If you are having shop do it, find the shop you ttust first and use the efi they are most comfortable with. Thats step one

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the sound advice Orr. I will start there.

I live near the border of RI and MA. I live in MA.

I will start to look around and see what sort of high performance shops there are around me. The last couple of places I have gone are just dynos that farm everything out. I would love to find a one stop shop that can rebuild the engine, slap the efi on and tune it with the procharger. That way all I have to do is get it home, drop it in, hook up gas, battery and throttle and go. (minor tuning later once the motor is in its new home)

Street Lethal - I hear ya with the LSX stuff. But my particular situation is not easy to sell all my stuff without a huge effort on my part. How much could I realistically get for my motor? 72 truck block, machined to clear a 383, bored out a bit farther due to a cylinder wall scratch. That's why it is a 390, not a 383. Forged crank rods pistons, Trickflow heads, Air-Gap intake, ARP bolts thru out. 5k miles. I bet not much. Part it out = pain in the butt, but still not much. 93 Fbody trans, maybe 85k miles, not much either.

Swapping over to LS is what I really want to do, but owning a home and paying for my DD doesn't leave a whole lot of cash to upgrade. Selling parts just seems like a huge pain. If I can get to my goal with what I have and have the car be good, not great, then I am OK. There is plenty to be said about saving the hassle of selling all those components.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

If there was a shop that would let me "trade in" all my parts I have now and apply some sort of discount to my new build, then I would take the LS option much more seriously.

Selling all this stuff, headers, flywheel, trans, etc... seems like a pain in the *** when I already have a motor that can get me to where I want to be.

I think it will not be as tame, quite and smooth as the LS. But my wallet has to weigh in on the equation as well. Plus time spent away from my wife, friends and family.

I may change my mind once I start looking for a reputable shop. If I can't find anything close by that I can trust, then I may just load up the old credit card and go the LS route and sell slowly....doesn't sound fun...

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I sold my 355 engine that had stock crank and rods, Hyper pistons, an LT4 hot cam and Trick Flow heads for $1500. That engine had 15,000 miles. It took me 2-3 months but it sold locally. You could absolutely get $2000 for your short block and depending on what comes with it up to $1200 for the T56. I've seen drop in used LS2 with T56 go for $3000. You could get a truck or SUV 6.0L and a T56 and all the conversion parts for less than $3000. Blown/Turbod LS is so common you could get a realisticly good mail order tuned LS PCM. No need for dyno tune.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

It is a pain in the butt and it can take a long time too. Selling things is only relevant for about 1 year or less because any time longer than that probably means you already worked through the finances and accomplished whatever it was you were aiming to do in the first place.

It took me 5 years to sell off all my big block stuff. There were some things that I began to wonder if I'll ever get rid of. It took me 10 years to sell a Spohn torque arm for TKO transmission. It gets to the point that you're asking the UPS delivery guy and other strangers if they have a 3rd gen or know anybody that wants parts. After that much time the money is inconsequential and it simply becomes about seeing that things go to a good home and not the landfill.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Thats another thing i didnt mention. You will want a better aftermarket block for the sbc and thats extra cost right there. Ls iron blocks work well enough for an f1 blower. Got to figure that in

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Don't forget about the LS7. Naturally aspirated wonder of the LS world.

Z28FAST1

How much power is your current set up making?

What's your budget?

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Z28: Currently not making much. The blower had major belt slip issues at 4-6 psi so it only made around 450 to the wheels. Def not using the TPI stationary brackets moving forward.

Budget.... depends. If I sell stuff, whatever I can get + maybe $10k is what I feel this car deserves. More than that and it gets hard to justify the money.

If I rebuild this motor, trans, get better brackets, stainless headers and exhaust, plus wider rims and tires. I think I will be around the $10k mark.

If I sell everything (time).... Then maybe $10K + $3k or $4K max. But I would be stuck buying tons of stuff. And if I want to hit that 600HP level then to do it in an LS it would seem doable of course, but much more work to get there due to the selling of stuff.

Not sure... Maybe I am jumping ahead too much. I still have a lot of body work to finish with coating the floor boards and installing the 4 point bar, SFC....

A lot to think about....

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Fix the belt slip and it will easily make 600 hp

Z28FAST1

Knowing now how easy it is to make power with a boosted LS I would go with a low mile LS 6.0 + cam kit + 78/75 turbo.

$1-2k for the drop-out 6.0 or $3-4 for an LS3
$2-3k for the turbo kit(less if you fab it yourself)
$700 on cam kit
$1000 on miscellaneous(motor mounts, hoses, fittings, etc)

500-700 rwhp reliably through a 6 speed.

Best part is the reliability and street manners.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Orr89: Right that is what I am hoping. Seems like I have all the "ingredients" already. Maybe add EFI to make my tuning easier. I met a guy sort of locally that has a TT Z28 third gen and he used a CSU blow thru for his build and then moved to EFI for "easier tuning" he said. No more power, just smarter adjustment on the fly. This is nice, but I plan to set it and forget it. If that is the case, is the EFI cost justified when I already have a $1200 carb made for this sort of thing?

I guess the last thing is the block. I have money in this block because I had to pay to get it machined to accept the 383, then 390. My concern is that I want it to live a long life under boost. I figure if I keep the max power to around 650 absolute MAX at WOT, near red line, then I am OK with this block since I will just about never be at that state on my way to work at 8 am day after day. Might hit that messing around with friends on a weekend, on an on ramp for 1 second ( ) or if I ever autocross it. I don't see drag racing it ever in my future. Is changing the block worth it? Or just stick with this since I don't plan to have it live in the high RPM range?

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Z28: Could I bolt up my T-56 from a 93 TA?

What about pistons and the idea of putting a used motor in this build seems wrong.

Just all adds up quick. What about a controller for the motor? Are you including that in the cost of the motor? If so, any suggestions as to where to look for these components at those listed prices? I would like to look down all avenues. Thanks!


Also: How bad do you think the street manners would be on the SBC? I am on board that the LS would be better. Of course, but would it be like rough idle vs Cadillac smooth? or just marginally better? I just want to understand and quantify "better street manners" since the cost of doing all this could be added years to the build and thousands of dollars + hassle in selling crap to people...

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Efi like holley hp and others will have alot of features to monitor the motor and make corrections as needed. You will have a better control over timing which can make all the difference in mileage and drivability. Idle control etc. but also safeguards in case you lose fuel pump or pressure.. O2 corrections for optimum tune in all conditions. Things you cant do with a carb. Efi is a set it and forget it deal



Regarding the block, i would not push a stock block with a blower over 600 whp and 6200-ish rpm. Imo it is stressing it abit as it takes a good bit of power to turn the blower and that puts stress on front main. Aftermarket blocks are stronger here but alot more money


Street drivability you refer to is all in the tune up of parts you use. Lsx with big cam is gonna drive tough just as a sbc. Key is milder cam and good flowing heads. Especially with a stick shift. Autos with converters can get away with alot more. Efi almost always handles cammed setups better than carbs because low air speeds at idle and low rpm dont effect fueling on efi. Carb fueling comes from engine airspeed

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

All good info and added angles to think about.

I think EFI is the way to go for lots of driving miles. One thing concluded!

We are making progress.

Seems like the smart thing to do is look into aftermarket blocks and see what we are talking about in terms of cost, machined to accept my internals. I checked out Dart and Brodix, both companies sell multiple SBC blocks. Not sure where to start apart from calling each company up. BPE also sells an aftermarket block.

Thoughts?

Z28FAST1

Yes, it can. Google lt1 t56 on ls1. However, for 600 rwhp i would buy something already built for that power level.

No need for pistons. Stock pistons, gen 4 rods, etc are fine over 800 rwhp with proper tune. Contrary to old SBC belief, LS engines with 100k are just ripe for boost(ring gaps).


Thank me later^^

Local classifieds are best for engines. Ebay calls for premium pricing but here's an idea. 68K mile 6.0:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-11-12-13-...p2047675.l2557


Street manners for me can be described as no surging at a stop, amazing throttle response, being able to cruise in 6th gear almost at idle, having the pcm adapt to weather, easy cold/hot starts, great gas mileage and the car not beating you up on long drives.


Have fun either way!!

sprojam

I have a buddy running a fast efi setup on a 56 chevy and he loves it says that it allows him to enjoy the car much more.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Z28 - Great video. Just watched the whole thing. 100% agree on the junkyard build if I was starting from ground zero. But since I am not I have to weigh my options differently. The other thing to note is that I would rather sell the car than put an auto in it. Budget builds always have autos since they can take the power a lot easier. Not the point of my build. So I have to take into consideration that I have a $500 clutch with 5k miles on it and that auto is out, AND that I need to ensure that whatever motor I get I can use my T-56 since I don't think I would get much for it. I will look into google searches like you mentioned.

To be 100% honest, I want something a bit more high quality than a "I wanna do burnouts" machine. I hear that stock internals on modern motors can take abuse and that is awesome. Maybe someday I will make the switch, but even if I did I would want something new and rebuilt from scratch. Personal preference I guess.

I have not decided by a long shot, but selling my motor and trans for a couple grand seems like a step backwards. Motor and clutch has 5k miles. I could rebuild the trans for $2500 and make it handle 600 WHP no problem. Tick offers stuff like that.

Ugh.... no clear answers yet I guess. I do know I will be using EFI! So there is that!

I think I will call a couple hot rod shops near me and get their opinions since chances are I will be using one of them for the motor build or motor refresh.

I will call this place today: http://www.sd-concepts.com/pages/cfE...esignBuild.cfm

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Found this article doing the LT1/T56 search.

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/ght...on-conversion/

Looks like it would cost $400 in parts to do the conversion.
I would still want the trans rebuilt to take more TQ. It might just be better to get a new trans when all is said and done. If that is the case, then maybe the LS motor might be worth waiting for. Still not sure...

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

If you arent trying to drag race it on a track with sticky tires, i dont thinj a street blast will hurt it. You wont get traction

irocman7

Just some food for thought.

I was in the same boat as you. I have an lt1 t-56, spec clutch, Sphon Tourqe arm etc. I already spent money on the aftermarket small block stuff over the years. I started to do the math on what I would be wasting on moving up to an LS and decided to keep my small block, and look at moving to a EFI big block down the road.

I upgraded to the LS computer using EFI connections stuff which helped me with my drivability (can be used on the big block build down the road). Drivability is excellent in all weather conditions, and I have hit as high as 27 mpg.

I have ridden in friends cars with built LS's with bad tunes and they perform nowhere near how mine performs on drivability. That being said the ones that were done right run like a champ, but it takes money and time to get there. However most of the time they run a lot better than most carbed small blocks.

NA 6.0+ LS's with LS3 heads and a decent cam with all the bolt-on's make 600+ easy. But it takes money and time to get there. Every LS part costs a little more than small block equivalent new, it adds up.

I am picking up a set of AFR 210's this weekend for $800 bucks, to drop on my small block. The moral of the story: IMHO now is the time to be picking up small block stuff because everyone is upgrading to LS's letting their high end small block stuff go for cheap.

Nobody cares about a built small block when your out at car shows etc, "if it ain't LS it's less" until they see your taillights.

Either way have fun and enjoy your car!

Z28FAST1

Curious what the cost of an aftermarket block + machining?

Also the cost of a holler efi controller?


For transmissions look into the t56 magnum

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

For his build i would go dart shp. Used to be around 1799$ machined ready for assembly. Pretty good deal considering its stronger than oem and finishing an old oem block to similar specs with splayed mains would cost about half as much and be not quite as strong

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Irocman7: great info! Thanks for sharing. If LS motors make power so easily, and can run super smooth, do you (all) think it might be a good option to go NA LS?

To hit 600 rwhp I feel like it would have to be a crazy NA setup. But for long term life, maybe not having a blower would help.

On the other hand I already have a new F1 head unit, so it seems crazy to not use it. Only issue I had with it was the crazy loud bypass (big red) valve. I want the car to be mean sounding, but not like a jet engine at idle. It was crazy. I wouldn't feel comfortable driving it at night.

I will look into what Procharger sells with the LS3 kit and find some sound clips on YouTube.

another thing I will start doing is putting togeather a shopping list of parts needed (new) to get certain options built. Seeing real numbers helps guide things.

thanks again for all the insight.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

I have decided that I am going to sell everything!

All my old power train. Motor, trans, clutch, Procharger. Everything...

I have decided I want to go with something new, fuel injected, warrantied and over 600HP. The easiest way to check all these buckets is to pay a lot. I have decided to go this direction and simply save up for longer.

I have my eye on this engine from BPE.

http://blueprintengines.com/index.ph...ies-psls4271ct

Basically a long block with an intake. I would mate this up to a new T-56 Magnum.

BPE sells a motor that is $20K with the same cam and comes with a blower in case I want more power down the road. Don't think I will.

100% aware there are cheaper ways to make this power but I want to go with something new. I plan to have this car for ever. My car will most likely take at least another year to finish the body. After that I will start to buy parts as I can. Then most likely dump the final purchase partially on a credit card or something.

Thanks again to all of you for your great suggestions.

One last question: How do you think I should sell my motor? List its components and say it can be parted out or complete? Never sold anything like this before.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

sprojam

BPE has some awesome engines good luck.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Try to sell complete at first. Could try part out later on. Motor shortblock by itself. Heads cam intake carb etc separately

Try facebook classifieds if you are on there. Turbobullet parts is good
Yellowbullet classified online is good to

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Also, 600-625 hp crank motor is near 500-530 whp thru a manual trans. Thats pretty good for a 400+ cube deal

Getting much more than 550, you start to get into big cams and turning some rpm. But good stuff like ls7 heads and intakes can do mid high 500's whp and be driver friendly. The 500-550 whp stuff drives very nice with good tuning. Need good clutch tho

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for all the advice Orr. I will keep my power aspirations in check.

At the end of the day, a smooth running LS that has a strong power band down low will put a smile on my face for years to come. I will not hold that 600 number up in a pedestal, if I have 550+ at the wheels I will be happy. Hopefully the new trans will help keep power transferring to the ground. I have a Moser 12 bolt that I am sure takes some work to spin.

Either way, the motor will be lighter than my SBC, so that is a plus. Also if I go NA then I can ditch the FMIC I have and all that piping. Should save some additional weight.

The race to finish this car just turned into a marathon! I will make a list of places to like all the components for sale once I have made a detailed list that I can just copy past all over the place.

I will get started tonight.

- Facebook
- Yellow Bullet
- Racing Junk
- Ebay
- TGO
- Turbo Bullet
- Craigslist
- Any other ideas?


Also if anyone knows any other engine builders like BPE, please let me know. I would like to give these places a call and learn more about them.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

My buddy has a 416 stroker ls3 with stock ls3 heads intake. T56 magnum, 9" rear. 530 whp with a BTR stroker cam 239/254. Drove 4 hrs to track ran 17 psses with a best of 10.9 at 127-128 mph and then drove home. Great combo for cheap!

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

I wouldn't need the rear. Not sure what a 416 is. Still an LS newbie.

Is that like a 350 becoming a 383. 376 to 416 right? Bore and stroke increase?

Any idea on cost of anything? Chances are I can't touch it since I don't have all that much cash right now, but you never know.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

4.065" bore of the 6.2 liter engines with a 4" stroke.

4" stroke rotating assemblies with forged rods & pistons, rings, bearings, balanced, typically start around $2500.