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Ac wiring on 383 and new ecm swap

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Old 02-24-2020, 12:18 PM
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Car: 86 Iroc-Z
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Ac wiring on 383 and new ecm swap

So i put a 383 hsr in my 86 iroc. Trying to figure out all my wiring now between the freezing cold days. I have a Holley HP ecm with the gm tpi harness. I set this 383 up the same way as a later 3rd gen would be. It has the serpentine now, and i put in a 134r ac upgrade kit, along with a small cap dizzy with external coil. Thats where i am at, so...
1. Looks like my dizzy i will have 2 blade pigtails with 1 white and 1 thicker pink wire, then the ignition pigtail from my hp harness.
2. I have my 1 green spade that goes to sender by #1 plug for temp gauge.
3. My new powermaster alt has a red wire to starter and brown (looks almost black) to my gauge. I have a new awg 6 wire to run to battery. I have fist 2 wires hooked to alt with a conversion pigtail.
4. My TCC i will have hooked up with a new 4 pin pigtail. I have a hp sub harness to hook up i/o's so i will put the wire from it into the new pigtail. Need to know what spot out of the 4 to put it in. (Have read tan, but not clear).
5. The new ac set up looks all stock except has a sanden style compressor. Its directions said to take green wire from compressor and hook to it, and take pressure switch wires together. That has a black and green for compressor wiring so sounds easy. The switch has a green w/ black and a green w/ white, snip off plug and wire together, should be done, but it looks like the solid green only goes to a female spade right next to the c100 with a green and a tan ( or off orange kind of darker) wire. Green is from compressor pigtail to this spade. The tan-ish one goes from spade into the c100. I think its for my oil pressure sender for the gauge, and i guess i dont need the oild pressure switch. The are seperate by the dizzy on mine.
6. I assume i need to run a wire from my hp sub harness for the fan to be controlled, but is just 1 wire. I have the single fan and it has the 2 blade style plug on the fan.
7. I have no idea how to hook up my fuel pump so it runs since i guess that was all in the ecm circuitry. Everyone says just hook to a hot in run? Dont i need the relay by the c100, i dont know on that one, im lost and frustrated.

Ok, so i think im close, just need a little help here from anyone who knows for sure on the things i have listed. I know some stuffs out there, but nothing clear enough for me to start cutting off pigtails and soldering. I do have my FSM for this year, but its not helping me much for what i have left.
thanks in advanced guys.
Old 02-24-2020, 11:11 PM
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Car: '89 Firebird
Engine: 7.0L
Transmission: T56
Re: Ac wiring on 383 and new ecm swap

2. Your gages need a temp sender, but so does the Holley HP ECM.

4. You're probably going to have to build a custom table to operate a torque converter lockup. You'll need to study up on how the factory does it and emulate that.

5. Look at my build thread for other ideas about air conditioning and such. Post #1 has quick links to find stuff easy. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...-qwktrips.html

7. Holley HP ECM already has fuel pump control built in. Look at the wiring diagram for your harness and find the fuel pump relay wire.

Last edited by QwkTrip; 02-24-2020 at 11:17 PM.
Old 02-25-2020, 06:58 AM
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Car: 86 Iroc-Z
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Ac wiring on 383 and new ecm swap

Yes, the sender is there, that was pretty much already done, same with the holleys cooling. I did read your thread several times, not alot i would use since its lsx. Ive been reading on hollys site to find out about the tcc and fans.
my issues is what i have read, im not a great wire diagram reader, is that the fuel was ran by factory ecu. So with that gone, what would be the cleanest way to tie in with the holley? Or do i now run it with out? How does it work then, does it turn on by key to prime, then how does it get signal afterwards because what turns the pump off in emergency or failure?
Also, my directions for new a/c says tie my one wire sanden compressor into green wire, wrap up black one, and twist both pressure switch wires together. My green literally goes nowhere. Used to go to ecu via blade pigtail by c100. The pressure switch and black ones are the only ones from tthe compressor that go into harnesses thru the ac blower area and firewall.

These are the 2 stumpers i have right now holding me up. Anybody?
Old 02-25-2020, 06:21 PM
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Car: '89 Firebird
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Re: Ac wiring on 383 and new ecm swap

Same answer for fuel pump. Not repeating myself about that.

There are many different ways you can wire up the AC compressor. I came up with 7 different designs when I was thinking things through with my car. Anything you do should accomplish 4 things for best operation:

1. Turn on radiator fan when AC is selected.
2. AC clutch should not engage unless the high pressure & low pressure switch are closed. That pretty much means you're putting the AC clutch in-line with the wiring thru those switches.
3. Kick up idle any time AC compressor turns on. This is the "AC kick" feature in the HP EFI software. The AC clutch cycles on/off constantly, and the AC kick needs to operate every time.
4. Turn off the AC compressor when at high rpm's.

The wiring diagram and software setup in my build thread does all those things and more. You can come up with your own ideas if you want (yes, it's possible to have more than one solution). I had to cut and splice 1 or 2 wires in my original harness to re-arrange things to do what I wanted. I figured out how my car was wired by looking at factory wiring diagrams, and then used a multimeter to do wire continuity checks so I knew which wires went where and did what.

Last edited by QwkTrip; 02-25-2020 at 06:27 PM.
Old 03-04-2020, 12:18 AM
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Car: 86 Iroc-Z
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Ac wiring on 383 and new ecm swap

Ok, so I got some more detailed information that helped me understand what all need to be done on this.

Fuel pump: I will use the Holley to wire into the factory signal line (tan) at the C207 that drives the pump. As I have gathered, it runs down the length of the car to the pump. Since I will be putting in a new aftermarket pump, I wanted to make sure the pump was going to have enough power and the relay/fuse would be appropriate for it, rather than the 30 some year old stuff. Therefor I will install a Racetronix wiring and relay kit, (in which i read is plug and play with the factory at the pump end). This will receive the signal and power the pump hopefully efficiently and reliably. My Holley ECU will give a 3 second (I believe) prime, and after sensing the RPM's it keeps it turned on as long as there is RPM's.

The fans I will will wire from the Holley's I/O sub harness to give a signal to a fused relay, in which will turn on my fans from the logic I provide in the ECU, (such as temp on/off, A/C on?, etc.

Same goes for my TCC. I have a pigtail (like stock) for the tranny in which I will install a I/O lead from the Holley sub harness to send a ground to lock that up according to some logic in my ECU.

Finally, the A/C. I will run a signal from the I/O's of the Holley to turn on the clutch according to its logic (such as RPM's, TPS, WOT etc). I'm still unsure on this one because the compressor I have (Sanden), I have read it has the internal high pressure built in?? and grounds through the case of the compressor/bolts to the engine/bracket. so I have to figure out the exact routing of the Holley wiring all the way thru to the compressor. My old one had the 2 wires to the high pressure switch (on the compressor), and 2 wires to the clutch. Which the only ones that connected from the A/C harness (all around the blower coming from the HVAC control panel that ran the low press. switch/blower/resistor/etc) was the 2 high press. switch wires. The clutch had a black ground and a dark green wire that pigtailed into the old ECU harness. From there I can't figure out what it did. Looks like to ECU, was this the signal just to say its running, and the compressor had power thru the power wire of the high pressure switch that was built into it? In that case, do i only need the old high pressure switch power line to run to a relay, and then the Holley signal to the relay to complete the circuit and power the compressor?

Last edited by 3rdgenzroc; 03-04-2020 at 12:19 AM. Reason: wording
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