I bought my 1987 Camaro last August. It seemed to burn a bit of oil and had the normal blue puff of exhaust on start up. At the time I didn't want to swap the motor but I did a compression test and found 90psi in cylinder 5
I took it out and put new rings and bearings in and then tested compression again and got 90psi again.... Well it wasn't until I did all the work that I found out the compression tester was bad.. 😣. It still smoked on startup so I said screw it, new motor time.

I wanted to get it in by the end of last summer but parts were back ordered for 6 months.

What I settled on was:
1997 350 roller block bored .030" over
AFR 195cc as cast heads
Comp XR269HR with 1.6 rockers
Edelbrock Pro Flo XT 4 efi intake. I wanted HSR but was out of stock and every month the shipping date got pushed back a month.

I've got the 383 in and slowly hooking up components and fabricating as I go along.

 

I'm really curious to see how yours runs. It's very close to the build I'm planning.

 

 

I originally wanted to use a HSR intake but they were out of stock for 6 months. So I settled on the Edelbrock pro flo xt 4. I had to modify LT1 fuel rails and built a TPI throttle body adapter plate. I also made a bracket for the throttle linkage.

 

Should be very fun street engine!

 

My ebay tall valve covers won't fit with the V-belt setup. Too bad. I am going to cut the webbing out of a set of stock center bolt covers just so I can get it running.

The covers hit on the a/c bracket that is bolted to the header bolt, and the rear suction/discharge lines would hit. On the passenger side the trans dipstick tube is in the way, but could be bent back.

When I ordered the covers I should have not got the Tall version. Short would have had enough clearance.

Here is what the stock covers look like.

 

Getting things buttoned up.

Got the y-pipe modified and bolted back up.

Picking up new radiator hoses tomorrow. One from a 1985 5.0 Carb motor will fit with the Edelbrock intake manifold.

 

It's alive!

 

Awesome!

so this is the XR269 cam you're running?

https://www.lingenfelter.com/product...l#.YPyjbb9lCDY

 

No, that is a LS cam.

This one

https://www.compcams.com/xtreme-ener...oller-sbc.html

 

How is this intake gasket supposed to work?

 

I was using them to check intake end rail gap before I got my final gaskets. I used Fel-pro 1205

 

Ok. Hows the idle? Manifold vacuum at what idle speed? If trans is an automatic, what vacuum do you get in gear?

 

I will check vacuum tomorrow. It is an automatic and idles around 600 rpm in park.

I am going to have to get it tuned. The fuel rails and pressure regulator I used are from a LT1. So fuel pressure with vacuum connected is like 48psi and goes to 50psi with no vacuum. I didn't know it would be so high.

 

Idle is nice and smooth. manifold vacuum is 15 in hg at what appears to be 650 rpm. I couldn't test in gear as I didn't have a long enough hose.

 

That's pretty good. 15 inHg at 650 rpm in Neutral probably translates to about 12-13 in gear (if your converter isn't too tight).

If you can, I'd still be interested in the in-gear number. What converter are you running?

How's the valve train noise?

Appreciate all the info!

 

I still have the stock converter.

Valve train is surprisingly quiet.

 

Wow, that's actually really good vacuum for a stock converter at that low of RPM.

Btw, did you consider a higher rpm converter? The stock converter is going to kinda limit the performance potential of that 383...

 

I am definitely going to get a higher rpm converter. I should have done it when the engine was out but I wasn't sure the plan. I am thinking that I will rebuild the transmission with a probuilt automatics street/strip kit this winter. I'm sure the stock 700r4 won't last long.

 

Ughhhhhhhhh.......

Oil leak out of the front of the pan. Not the timing cover or front balancer seal. I used a 1 piece blue fel pro rubber gasket installed dry.

BUT car runs well.

 

You're not the only one. I can never get those FelPro 1-pc gaskets to completely seal.
It might be coming from your 2-pc timing cover. I tack welded washers to the back the lower seal metal holder and set up against the front main bearing cap. It doesn't allow the oval ring to flex inward toward the block so that a leak can happen between it and the front cover. Check where the seal holder is welded to the oval ring. I believe you will see 3 spot welds. Oil has a straight shot to leak between those metal pieces. Clean it and squish some oil-resistant RTV in there.

 

Right after I posted I thought about the 2-pc timing cover and how the oval ring is attached. You are right. There is so much possibility for it to leak. At least it will be easier to fix than a 1 piece cover.

 

I'd probably get a 2500 rpm

 

I just seen a new summit 3000 rpm for $240 USD on our Kijiji classifieds. Not sure how well they are made though.

 

If it’s anything like the Jeg’s converter I had years ago, it will flash immediately and be incredibly annoying to drive on the street. That experience has made me wary of house-brand converters for street driving. For the track, it’s not as big of a deal, but you’ll be better off with a good converter from Edge, Vigilante, or the like that will drive closer to stock at low throttle input.

 

I really like the Hughes 2500w/ lockup. Drives like stock until you get on the Throttle. Also really efficient at getting power to the ground while driving.

 

I usually try and stick with decent parts, but the price was too good to pass up on the summit 3000 lock up converter. I ended up getting it for $200. All my previous souped up cars have had manual transmissions so I have no idea what to even expect. All I know now is that when I mash the gas and rpms only go to 2000 the 383 still feels like a turd.

I will see how I like the summit converter. Right now the car has 3.23 rear gears. I may change those too but want to keep cruise rpm down. I am used to my 535hp Mustang LX with 4.10s and a 5 speed, but that car doesn't see highway use.

 

I think this is 100% what is happening. I am putting in a new torque converter and may just pull the motor instead of the transmission. That way I could fix the leak and install a converter.

 

Honestly those inexpensive Summit, Jegs, TCI, and B&M, off-the-shell Torque-Converters fell like complete garbage...
Compared to a Torque-Converter in the $650 to $950 Range from FTI, Yank, Circle-D, Etc.

I would never go cheap on a Torque-Converter...
The feel and drivability of the Car completely changes.

People who have never experienced a properly spec'd FTI or Yank Torque-Converter...
Do NOT know what they are missing!
Worth the Money every time!

 

This is absolutely true after I saw it firsthand going from a Jegs to an Edge. The 3.23 gears will only make it worse compared to a 3.73 or 4.10 axle ratio.

 

Winter plans are a pro built automatics 700r4 and possibly 3.73 rear gears. If I go that way I will use a edge or whatever Dana recommends. I am ok with spending $200 for the summit converter and trying it. Like I said I've never had a automatic transmission performance car before so I have to idea how a good converter/transmission would feel.

 

I have been feeding Dana (Pro-Built Automatics) GM Engineering information (I am a former Engineer for this Transmission)...
I would highly recommend him.

Many corrections, that GM deemed too expensive...
Were given to Dana.

Enjoy!

 

 

That would be the story of the company for decades. The issues with head gaskets in the 60* series engines, the oil starvation in the quad4 (LD9) family. All things that would be easily fixed.

 

A couple of questions for you (the answers to which might be buried but this is easier).
Which piston is that?
What's your piston to deck distance?
Head gasket used?
I'm just noodling around with compression and the like.

 

 

Thanks. (that's the closeup I was trying to get!)
I've used that piston, albeit in a flat top, for a couple of 350's.
That piston dish volume is exactly what I'm looking for. Problem is, to get the internal balance for this build, it comes in a little heavy at 511 grams. My builder has suggested an SRP lightweight low expansion forging. It comes in at 403 grams which makes life a lot easier on the balancing side. Thing is, it has a 16 cc inverted dome. This means milling the heads (again) and probably the intake as well. Otherwise I'd never see that 10:1 you've got.
Thanks again for the info.

 

Skinny, you are planning a 383, right?
What specs are you looking for in a piston?
I will do some searching.

 

Sent you a PM.

 

Skinny,

Do you have a Late Cylinder-Block that uses a Hydraulic-Roller Camshaft?
They used an external-balanced configuration with a weight added to the Harmonic-Balancer, and also the Flex-Plate.

 

No. Original style Gen 1 with a 2 PC RMS. Late 70's vintage.
I can get reciprocating assemblies that are internal/ external as in a weighted balancer and flexplate (as in a 400). Not to be confused with the flexplate for the 1 PC RMS version which is counter weighted to make up for the lump that's on the end of a 2 PC crank.
Or spec it as internally balanced with a neutral dampener and flexplate. Like a 350.
Anyway, I'm going for internally balanced.

 

My 334 is external/external balanced. That sucks. Should I need to replace the balancer or flexplate, I have to have the weights matched to keep the rotating assembly in balance.

 

I'm looking at the ultimate stresses that the external balance has difficulty in controlling. The plan with this lump is at or near WOT for long stretches. I don't need a crankshaft snapping in two at the front journal. Drag racing (at these power levels) wouldn't have as much of an impact because of the length of the race. Open road events (if I ever manage to get to one) are a different matter.
This is also why a lighter piston is in my build spec.
Gone are the days when I used cast bits to get me down the track. I regularly spun my factory cast crank, stock rods from the 70's , albeit with upgraded hardware and a hypereutectic piston to 6500. 12.46 seconds at a time. No balance job either. Then again, I had a top shelf shop put the shortblock together. I trusted their judgement and skill.

 

There are good reasons why I would always try to Build as an Internal-Balance Engine...
But is is not always possible depending on the Displacement, and Bobweights.

Unless I am Building a Track-Only Engine, and can use Aluminum Connecting-Rods or other changes (for weight savings)...
Then you have to go to an External-Balance.

With most Gen-1 SBCs (or Gen-3/ Gen-4)... Building as Internally-Balanced is no issue.

 

I've decided to not even try the summit converter. I am trying to get Dana get to the bottom of shipping a Probuilt street/strip 700r4 rebuild kit and Edge street edge converter to Canada. Once I have the final details ironed out I will be ordering.

As I told Dana I have never had a performance vehicle with an automatic transmission before. I have a 535hp 408w stroker in my 1989 Mustang LX with 4.10 rear gears and a TKO 600 5 speed. I am used to driving in 2nd gear (or any gear) and mashing the gas and at any RPM the car takes off into orbit. In my Camaro with a 383, I mash the gas and its embarrassing......downshift into 1st and it spins or stays in 2nd and dogs it from 1500-3000 rpm.

------- I understand the purpose of the High Stall is to get the RPM instantly into the RPM range which would help stay in power band.


What I am getting at is I am scared to shell out all that money on a torque converter and have expectations that aren't there..partly because I don't know what to expect from a high stall.

Couldn't the same results be achieved with more rear gear? There is much about torque converters and automatics that I don't understand.

 

I'll agree with you on the A to B comparison. We saw remarkable improvements going from a TCI 10" ,rated at 1500 RPM above stock (see what they did there?) to a spec's Yank 9.5" (the model escapes me at the moment).
But...

Here's the experience I can relate on how the TCI 10" behaved.
First, it provided instant gratification at the drag strip. There was another 1000+ RPM right at the hit. Probably closer to 1500. I have a chassis dyno video showing the tach and the the moment the throttle went to wide open. Improved 60' and ET time slips as well.
Second, it's behaviour on the street was a non issue. It would most definitely accelerate through the RPM sweep under light throttle but only to a point. It didn't go to 3500 and hang there. More like 1500 to 2000 and motor along as the gears caught up. But the flash stall was there anytime you mashed the throttle.
Now, that said, the difference between the TCI and the Yank was seen through data logging at the strip. Whereas the TCI would fall down the rev range to the next gear (which in a 4L60 is a large split), the Yank would never drop below 5000 or thereabouts regardless of the gear. That kept the engine in or around its peak torque. Results were quicker still. Behaviour on the street was the same as the lower spec converter.
I can't comment on any other brand other than those two.
And I wouldn't be the least bit afraid of repeating the TCI purchase again. As a matter of fact, I've got the next step up in their 10" lineup which should add another 500+ RPM into the mix.
Lockup too.

 

Does the Pro Flo XT 4 manifold clear the hood? I was looking at it for a Firebird build but it seems "iffy" on hood clearance. Did you consider using the Pro Flo throttle body?

 

Yes. With the stock under hood insulation there was over 1/2" of clearance. Pro Flo TB was too much $ for me.

 

Thanks