Hello everyone, I am currently working on an 85 Firebird. I am doing a genV Lt1 (L84).
I'll get my recent and current progress pics on the thread for you guys. Hopefully I can get some input when needed..
otherwise I'm just building and enjoying.. Any socal locals to link up with in the IE.

 

Front face

 

Update

 

Looking Great so far!


I am not and fan of the Gen-V SBC Platform...
But I very much like the effort and the swap process!

What color Powder did you use for the Purple?
Who's Alternator are you using?

 

Yeah I wanted to go a different route and not just put an LS.
Powder is illusion purple, there's black and some hidden nardo grey pieces.
the alternate is autotech engineering, with some high output pieces in it just to keep it running nicely.

 

Ok, I have officially hit a stump in the road.. The starter, it has a connector with two pins one for crank ignition voltage and the other for starter Solenoid voltage. Do I need these both connected to the terminal from the battery? I'm using a PSI harness. They say it only needs the s terminal but with ignition to power, starter doesn't engage, if I put power to starter it engages the rod outward as I hear it but it doesn't turn the motor. Do both of these need to go to crank and not the s terminal?

 

What strut mounts are those? Those are nice and short.

As for your starter, the solenoid needs to get 12v when cranking. You can steal that power from the C100 (purple wire I believe).

 

Those are QA1, Now that you bring those up, I was wondering if anyone has ever opened up the strut area of the body for more adjustment.

Also ok, so only 12v when cranking to the solenoid. Gonna see about that.

 

How do those seats fit? Are they low enough like stock? I have browsed them before but have yet to see anyone use them yet.

 

They actually fit very nicely. Direct swap basically and on top of that its got that little extra comfort. I almost fell asleep in it testing it out.

 

Ok, I have hit an issue. The engine runs. Yet after like 6 seconds, it gets a knocking sound.. Now I am getting an injector 6 circuit code. Yet would that bring about that knock? It hasn't been ran long enough to find out any issue.

What I have done though is I removed every spark plug and switched the starter and the engine rotates freely and sounds free of any issues.

I opened my intake valley to double check but I have no DOD solenoids only MichiganMotorsport plugs. Seen no issues cam looked fine.

I opened the valve covers and found no broken springs no issues in the valve train.

Could it be the issue at injector 6 is where I'm currently at. Yet sound seems to come from possibly the driverside.

Now oddly the cars starts and runs sounds fine. Then it knocks. The motor has 7 miles on it. Nothing more then the solenoid caps and an oil pan.

Could it possibly be the tune and the fact I don't have my cats and 02s installed yet?

But I don't see that being the issue unless it's a specific thing it needs to see to know.

 

I can't post the video but if anyone wants I can email it. But the format isn't supported here.

 

I'm not sure if this will help you but I ran into this on a 2019 coyote engine that a customer brought in. It had a bad knock and misfire and a low fuel rail pressure code. The end of the injector had broken off and it was dumping massive amounts of fuel into the cylinder to the point that it was trying to hydrolock.

 

The only code I have is injector 6 circuit and MAP circuit range/performance..

It's a PSI harness. MAP reading looks good though hut you can't get live injector data on a simple scanner

 

In your case since it's an injector circuit fault you might look into the number 6 injector control wire from the injector to the pcm being shorted to ground and keep that injector open.

 

Yeah I was thinking I may have to go in the harness. But when the knock happens it's on the driver side of engine not cyl 6 side.

That in itself is why I wonder what's up in the correlation between the two.

I see the motor torque when it happens I half suspected the transmission to be an issue

 

When it starts making noise inplug the coil on number 6 and see if it is still making noise

 

Just pulled up to the shop about to start it and run it see what happens. I haven't let it knock for long. I always cut it off but I was like ill never find it if I don't cause I checked everything that it could be and be not a motor issue. So I'm gonna see right now lol

 

Ok so you know what, I let it start knocking and then it dies.

 

Maybe pull the plugs and see if any of them are washed out with fuel. Then with them all out spin it over and see if fuel comes dumping out

 

Yeah I pulled them and it had carbon fouling on them. Gonna check for fuel though but you know what. It's outta gas I think lmao

 

Yeah I pulled them and it had carbon fouling on them. Before that you know what. It's outta gas lol

 

lol gotta have that stuff

 

A bad injector or cylinder without fuel should not knock. Are you sure you installed the cam and timing gear correctly. It sounds like something is out of time and or that your lifters aren't pumped up yet. Dry valvetrain on LS motors sound awful until they are fully oiled. Were your lifters soaked in oil prior to installation?

 

a bad injector will cause a knock. See above

 

It's a crate motor. Never had it apart besides doing DOD valley plugs and Oil Pan. The car has no issues and has oil pressure when turned over.

 

Ran for a second longer and idled out. Then knocked. The thing is, as i noticed it knocks and dies. So it may possibly be flooding a cylinder. Gonna run it again and check plugs then watch inside the cylinder.

 

Do you have pids you can watch for fuel pressure? Might be a key to that. If your high pressure pump is pulling more than your low pressure pump can provide then you will have issues like that. You would see either or both drop in pressure.

Pull all the spark plugs out and crank the engine over. If you see fuel shoot across the shop then you have an injector stuck open and instead of it making 700psi rail pressure it's putting a massive amount of fuel into the cylinder and rapidly draining your fuel tank.

If you see high and low fuel pressure at the same amount and no rivers of fuel running out of the engine then either the high pressure pump isn't working or the cam lobe that drives it is gone.

If you see high pressure kick up to normal and then low pressure drop just after that then your low pressure pump isn't up for the job.

 

Yeah I'll give it a try tomorrow. It's a brand new Walbro 440 through an aeromotive regulator i have set at 87, When I read the live data I get like 1600+ psi I believe at the rail but I will observe how they do when it's cranking and so forth in the morning.


I did notice when it knocks and dies, it seems as if it ran out of fuel or like it's losing fuel cause even if it had an issue which as I stated without fuel their is no knocking. Rotates smoothly, now I'm wondering am I seeing continuous fuel pressure at the regulator. So I'm gonna check that also.

 

Ok here is the update. First, I pulled the harness and did a continuity test s t between all the injector plugs to the main connector, I found 0.03-0.04 across all of them.

Decided to swap injector 4 to cyl 6 and vice versa. Start engine and at first nothing but battery is low engine dies. I keep firing it up a bit with cylinder 6 disconnected and it wasn't knocking. Did it with cyl 4 disconnected to see if it's an injector issue. It knocked.

So I do a few more turns of starting then pull the plugs

Wet plug in cylinder 6. Both look pretty black but thats direct injection.

Cylinder 6 is wet and 4 was dry.
Then I pulled the other 2 no pick they were dry. Yet then I pulled 1-3-5-7 and they were all wet

Sorry these photos were trash but they were all wet
So I already know it has enough fuel pressure, I'm beginning to believe it's in the harness since it's an injector circuit A code.

Turned the motor over for a while to make sure it wasnt an oil pressure issue. Which it turns beautifully and even though the tone changed slightly as it built pressure. It wasn't the cause.

So first I think I'll trace the harness and see what wire coming from the main connector back may possibly be the issue.

 

Could it be possible that it's firing the injectors in the wrong sequence?
or firing multiple at the same time?

 

interesting. The b is not being able to actually tell off a simple scanner. But I will be messing with it after these customer cars.

 

Get some 194 bulbs and pull the contacts downward and make some noid lights out of them. Put one on each injector connector and have someone record the sequence with their phone or yours while you're cranking it over. You should be able to watch the video in slow motion and make sure the sequence is the same as the firing order.

 

I'm calling right now to get some a
sent over.

 

So I got a new scanner. Unrelated to the car but it's for the Shop. I decided to test it with comm through the psi harness. It works amazingly. Connects fast and can control and separate as well as give way better live data.

My open injector code I traced tack to a weak ground to the body. Once I fixed it injector went to ok status from open.

I test it with everything together and no coils. We have fuel innthose cylinders now and i am watching the injector sequence live.

Will fire it up at the end of the day.

 

Which scanner did you get?

 

Maximus 4.0

 

Nice. I have the Triton 10 for my personal scanner. But I kinda wish I would have got an Autel.

 

I have an Autel and it just is to outdated now. It's like over 5-8 years old. Doesn't do to much. Plus it seems to have battery issues now.

 

So now, I am getting it to consistently fire each cylinder.

My issue is it won't stay running. I'm starting to question my ground strap points. Cause it's giving me that feeling when there's a ground missing on a newer camaro motor will fire and die no matter what.

I wanted to assume it was the diameter of the intake piping but there is no way its firing and dying cause of a small thing as air intake diameter being larger right?

On top of that if I throttle it to stay alive i get nothing. Not even a light rev up. Geez lol so when I'm back in the shop I'm gonna try and make some better ground points for the straps.

Also yes it fires a lot faster now cause all injector circuits are working and the fact that led bsck to a ground issue as well has me in a process of elimination first.

Got the proper maf and map sensors to fit the tune from PSI and eliminate that issue. But it changed ultimately nothing lol I'm sure the vette ones I had were working the exact same

 

No APP codes? Or TAC correlation codes? Or anything related to passlock?
the fact that it loses throttle would lean me toward throttle/pedal correlation safety shutdown. Kinda of like it's not happy with what it's seeing so it shuts off just in case it's a runaway throttle.
kinda like that ruse that they were saying all these toyotas just randomly started having runaway throttle that were never able to duplicate right around the time toyota was killing American car makers in sales and GM and Chrysler were having to get government assistance to keep out of bankruptcy.
it brought about changes in electronic throttle control and for the most part all cars since then will kill the throttle input if you hold the brake while your giving it gas. That's why when you test for turbo output in your service bay you have to stall the car up in reverse to keep it from killing the throttle when you want to do that test.
so in your case you might look at if your pcm needs to see a brake input along with all the other inputs it needs to see. But adding more grounds never hurts. Unless you add it to the positive post. Then it hurts.

 

Actually I was recording all the data and on initial start up the throttle is already at 30%. Yet when i seperate it to see the actual values it shows properly from 0 as it increases through the range of 100.

 

Also, I happened to get the Vin finally. It's an SE