Thank you TP

 

yes. unless I add fuel

 

TP, the location of the two constant and the one switch on is in different locations on the Painless harness but the color code of the wires are the same. B-12 constant, C-1 constant, B-7 switch on. I'm not a wiring Guru so does it make a difference where on the ECM plug they are

 

 

This is the same for a 60102 painless harness using a 1227165 ecm

 

Btw these are looking at the backside of the ecm
plug

 

when you say backside. are you talking the side of the wires or the side that plugs into the ECM I have the view that you posted on CF. If that is a view of a Painless wiring harness, why do you think mine is different. I will be asking Painless that same question,

 

The backside is the side the wires come out of. My concern was that there is a accessory power issue with turn on.

 

why TP? would that be a-6

 

Yes that’s the pin, something is heat related not firing the injectors. Either wiring or ignition switch or bad ecm. Everything should be tested.

 

so your saying that a-6 should not have power on it when switch turn on

 

no it’s a ecm turn on, should have power in accessory, crank and run

 

so how do I check to see what's wrong? do I trace the wire on a-6 to see where it leads

 

can you elaborate on your testing?

 

 

I think that is the way the pink/black wire is connected. I will double check tomorrow. I know it has power when in run but I'm not sure about start. If if was not would it not start when cold

 

Check cold and hot to make sure there isn’t a problem with the power supplied to the ecm. You need to do a process of elimination.

 

Now you're thinking straight! Logically!!! Not on quite the right track maybe, butt at least LOGICALLY.

Not logical thinking. The problem is NOT "hot" vs "cold", as such, except that the cold-start injector covers it up when it's "cold". Will squirting a shot of starting fluid in the intake fix an ECM power supply connection that is always good when cold butt always goes bad when warmed up? That's alien abduction level thinking.

The factory uses pink/blk wiring in most newer cars (starting around 1980) for this same function. Goes to sensors, solenoids, the ECM itself, etc.; in a word, things that need to be powered only in Start & Run, to give them their power. Of course in a swap you might not have that color wire in your vehicle, butt EVERY vehicle since the introduction of points ignition and electric starters has that function, whatever its color may be. It goes to the ignition coil if nothing else. Whether it exists in the fusebox is anybody's guess.

If you have to hook it straight to the ignition supply, just use an inline fuse in the wire you have to run.

Remember, you MUST use a source for that particular connection that's powered only in Start & Run. If it's not powered in Start the car will NEVER start with the key in Start, like my friend with the old Chevy truck, and a shot of starting fluid WILL NOT fix that, which you know absolutely is what happens as A Fact. Since you have The Fact that yours starts in Start if other conditions are also met (namely extra fuel is supplied), that CANNOT be the "explanation", so don't worry about that. If that connection is still powered when you turn the key Off however, you'll get EXACTLY the result you're getting, because the ECM will still have power, thus won't know that the power got turned off, so it won't know that it ALSO got turned back on, therefore won't know to deliver its startup fuel shot. Simple, logical, fits the facts, most likely explanation. Once again, see my signature. "The simplest explanation that fits all the facts is most likely to be the right one". Avoid "explanations" that aren't "simple", that don't "fit" "all" "the facts", because they are not "most likely" to be the "right one".

If you REALLY want to verify this, warm up the car and turn it off. Disconnect that pink/blk wire from wherever you have it hooked up to. Wait a few seconds (5 should do the trick), hook it back up, and try to start it. If it starts up, you just verified that (a) the problem is that the pink/blk wire is still powered when the key is turned Off, and (b) manually forcing the correct power sequence on it cures the problem. Simple, logical, eeeeeeeeezzzzy, no alien abduction or any other "mystery" needs to be invoked as an "explanation".

 

good thought on the power turn on. The confusing part is the pins that aren’t consistent with a 165 pinout

 

Ok sofa I will try that later on today. busy

 

TP I think they are to. You and others have tought me alot sense I have been on this site. when you posted the print out of the pin location and color of the wires I found I was looking at it the wrong way. Thanks to you and everyone else

 

FIXED!!!! When cranking cold had power in run,cranking and start. when cranking hot had power in run but no power in start. Thank all that helped. I would have never thought to check the power there.I ran a inline fuse wire the the pink/black wire and it fired right up.

 

👏

 

Terrific. Great to hear!

Please tell us (a) what vehicle this is in; (b) what part or system in it you found that was behaving this way; (c) which wire/connection this was on; (d) how you found it; and (e) what you did to overcome it. We'd all like to know more of the details that we've only been able to guess at thus far.

 

well that's may still be a problem. I don't know what was causing it. I ran the pink/black from the fuse block stright to the ecm. I did use a test light to fine a 12v that work when switch was on run and start. there are no voltage when switch is off.