I got a price quote from a local engine builder that I believe specialize in strocker motors for a 383 short block. Bored, magnafluxed, blah blah painted block, Scat 9000 cast steel crank, Eagle 4340 h beam rods, SRP 10.5:1 forged pistons, clevitte bearings, sfi approved balancer and flexplate, timing chain, melling hv oil pump, milodon pan and pickup, felpro gaskets and arp bolts. this is assembled except for the oil pan and timing cover. All this for $2750.00 doesnt seem like a bad deal. Now, if I pick up a used block from a junk yard or something, get it bored and such, how much would it cost, could i do the rotating assembly bymyself (besides the balancing) and which would you recommend for someone who has never done this, but is a quick learner and interested in learning.

 

Most guys do their own assembly work because: a) they can buy more goodies with the money they save on labor they can supply themselves; b) they enjoy the work and the satisfaction of having done it themselves; or c) they don't trust others with their valuable possession.

However, very few built their "killer" engine the first time they assembled one. A stroker takes a few special considerations and know-how, but most of that centers around clearancing of the oil pan rails. Still, there are things you can do wrong with the shortblock assembly that will be expensive if not caught. So, unless you have someone to watch over what you're doing, it's probably a good idea to have the assembling done by someone experienced in the task.

 

i built my first engine when i was in high school, and it worked and ran good. looking back there was a lot of things i didn't do that i do now, mostly revolves around having the right tools and knowledge, not that i have enough of either yet. it isn't that hard to do and it isn't that hard to mess something up. i build a 355 last spring for my nephew and got the timing gear/chain off a tooth, stupid mistake. i've put in a lot with no problem, but got careless and it cost me a lot of time and effort, but i learned from it. if nothing else i'll check the dots on the gears a dozen times now before i put the cover on. at least i've never forgot the oil pump drive shaft.

 

I'll add this to what I said and Ed said (okay, sorry it's so long). I've picked up a complete rebuilt engine exactly once, in 1991 when I lived in San Diego. I was putting a .030-over rebuilt 4-bolt 350 & TH350 in the '57 to replace the original (and now dead) cast-iron Powerglide, and 283. Paid $500 for the complete engine less tin & cam (I already had a cam I was going to use).

Had a ticking noise when I got it running, tried adjusting valves, found out one rocker had a metric nut on the SAE stud (ticking noise turned out to be a bad fuel pump spring - not the builder's fault). Notice it seems to like oil (quart every 400 miles).

Two months later the passenger side head sprung a huge leak at the external casting line - I'd never seen or heard of that before, nor since. Went back to the guy's shop, he's left town. Summons taped to the door. Take both heads to another shop, they fix up a core they had, fixed the rocker stud, $300 later it's back together & I'm running again. Still likes that oil.

3 months later, the dipstick comes out milky. Pull the intake, discover cracks on both sides of the lifter valley. Start looking for another stock-bore block, all I can find is a 2-bolt at a rebuild shop. They take my pistons and bore it out for me. When disassembling, I also discover the rear main bearing is all smushed (oil groove completely closed), figure a .020-under bearing was put on a .010-under crank. All the other bearings were fine. Same shop turns the crank for me (actually couldn't find mine when I went to pick it up, so they gave me another .010-under one they had just turned). I put it back together with the same pistons & rings, new bearings.

Runs well now, but still likes oil to the tune of a quart every 500 miles. Put umbrella valve seals on, improved slightly to quart every 600 miles.

Fast forward to 1996, now living in Colorado. Decide to rebuild it with World heads and new rings/bearings. Upon disassembly, I FINALLY measure ring gap (hone marks still visible after 30k miles, by the way), determine the oil control rings were for .020-over bore, compression rings were the proper .030-over. I put the engine back together, decide to put the 396 in the '57, sold the complete engine to a guy I never heard from again so I assume he was happy.

Best I can figure is this guy in San Diego was taking cores thrown out by other people, putting in whatever parts he could scrounge together, and selling them as rebuilds. After disassembling and reassembling the engine twice, what I ended up with from the complete engine I bought from him were pistons, rods, and one head.

See why some guys choose to do it themselves, rather than rely on somebody else?