Hi guys,

I have pained inside all four wheel arches and inner wings with black hammerite and then a healthy dose of waxoyl. My question is should I extend the same protection to the underneath or should I simply just waxoyl under there?

Looks great by the way, it's amazing how much rust starts peeking through under the doors and under the gfx!

 

I would do the same to the underneath.

When I'm doing mine I'm painting the underside with POR15.

Robert

 

If I was starting from scratch, i.e. clean metal, I would do as you suggested. Mine has 2 coats of waxoyl, which I've also extended into the inner door panels, and under the arch splash protectors. I was very suprised to find nothing but a thin coat of grey primer on the back of the front wings!! Good job it came from CA.

 

Mines been covered underneath in a mix of farm grease and oil.............sounds ridiculous but when i took it for it's mot the guy couldn't believe the condition of the underside. On the downside it looks like i've had a really bad oil leak!!!!!

Felix, you really should do the underside it'll do her the world of good in the future!!

C-ya

Phil

 

I will definitely do it, just not sure how in-depth I need to go. I guess underneath isn't exactly prone to stones or anything, maybe just the waxoyl will be fine- or farm grease That Hammerite isn't cheap either is it? £7-8 for a medium tin!

Paul, were the doors starting to rust on yours? Did you eliminate any rattles or squeeks whilst there?

Cheers,
Felix

 

Felix

When i took my door panels off to have a look, i was lucky in the respect that it had already been sprayed inside, but while i was in there i realigned all the window regulators etc and got rid of all the nasty wind whistling noises i'd had!!!

Heres a handy tech hint for you too!!!!!

When you remove the door panel there will be a plastic sheet stuck to the door skin to stop water ingress etc.....if your car is the same age as mine ( which it is ) you'll probably find that when you remove this plastic sheet to get at the window mechanisms it will rip as it's siliconed all the way around the door and the plastic is probably a bit aged by now!

Don't panic..............

Go to your local garden centre and you can buy the same stuff by the metre off the roll!!!! And it's only about 50p a metre!! Then buy a tube of silicone and get it stuck in place!!!!


End of tech tip!!!!!!!!!!!

Note...i don't go to garden centres...ermm it's my Mrs she goes....erm.have i blown my street cred ( I must be getting old!!!!)

C-ya

Phil

 

Felix,

I did the inner door panels fairly lightly when I got the car (bearing in mind it had only been in the country from a dry state about 3 years, and done 3,000 miles), but did a proper job when I took the door to bits. So in general very good condition, some tiny bubbles under the bottom of the door. Just remember to poke out the wax from the drain holes afterwards.

I actually don't have any rattles or squeaks anywhere. In fact the wind noise i have around the quarter light only started when I fitted that little bit of new rubber trim near the door mirror, when I fitted new door seals. It'll only take about 3 years to bed in.

 

Mine is in good condition underneath but I want to keep it that way. Personally, I am having it sprayed body colour professionally. Got a few quotes so far.

Englishz28:- That's not as mad as it sounds. I know a professional bodyshop owner who swears by a 50/50% mix of paraffin and used engine oil. Not my idea of fun though. One of his clients with literally a fleet of classic Rolls Royces swears by it though.

Felix:- Just buy the gallon tub. It works out way cheaper in the long term. You end up finding loads of uses for it anyway.

BTW guys:- You can buy POR-15 from a company called Frost. I would also recommend Dinitrol products as they are very easy to use.

 

When I bought my Formula back in '94 it was in rustfree condition,but as I wanted the car to stay that way,and because the car had no rust protection what so ever,I decided to have it professionaly protected.
After a long search,I found a company that uses Dinol anti-rust products.
They were not in my neighbourhood,but I figured a good treatment is worth the long distance!
Anyway,the treatment is called Dinitrol,takes about 4 days, is not cheap,but I'm very happy with it!
Even my daily driver,a '94 Fiat Fiorino Pick-Up,has undergone the same treatment,and is still rustfree!
Last week my wife's car,a '96 Fiesta,had it's second treatment(daily drivers are supposed to be treated every 5 years or so,to keep in good shape) this car is also still in very good condition.
Of course the bird's treatment looks if it was done very recently,altough it's been done 4 years ago!
More info at WWW.DINITROL.COM or WWW.DINITROL.NL

 

Heres the web link for the dinitrol supplier in the UK...

www.frost.co.uk

Cheers

Phil

 

LOL at the Garden Centre thing... Guess where I was dragged to kicking and screaming yesterday? Darn Homebase! At least they sell Hammerite

So far I have gone through 3 tins of Waxoyl and have basically done the underneath and the 4 wheelarches. Is this normal, have I got a serious problem here ?

Paul, If I'm careful will I not be able to restick the original plastic sheet?

 

Felix.......

You've got a serious problem there mate!!!! The medical term is "antirustitus"!!!!!

If your'e careful you shouldn't have to replace the plastic liner....was just a tip in case

C-ya

Phil

(at least i am not alone in being dragged to garden centres!! )

 

Sorry, I meant Phil

Mate women love houses/gardens. Keeps them happy and keeps them off our backs about cars!

Antirustitis LOL

 

Hmmmm

It may keep em of our backs...but it seems that muggins here always seems to end up forking out for the Garden Centre/DIY excursions

Anyway...the last DIY trip seemed to be the perfect opportunity to buy a Dremel!!!!!!!!!!!!!

polish polish polish polish!!!

C-ya

Phil

 

Felix:- Nope, you don't have a problem. By being fastidious about these things you are preventing your car from turning into a rust ridden bucket. Remember floorpan rust and unibody construction don't mix well.

 

I'm in Southern Ontario - can be very damp here in the spring and fall and the they salt the roads during winter.

I have an 83 TA which has seen about 4-5 winters - although usually stored.

The car has been oil sprayed underneath just about every year also inside the doors, the rocker panels and under the hood. The process is very messy but the car has no rust after 20 years in a harsh climate.

 

I bet it's a messy process! Does it need to be done every year then? Must look forward to that little job.. Do you use a compresser? Don't get much harsher than the Canadian winter I guess.. Do they salt the roads there too?

 

I was doing it every year if the car was going to be on the road during the winter. For the years when it was stored during winter but driven in the spring and fall I was doing it every second year.

I would expect that in England it would be sufficient to spray it every two years as you don't get the winters that we do.

It's a kind of clear sticky oil which is sprayed on with a compressor. They drill the rockers and doors to spray inside. There are franchise outlets that will do it but a lot of corner garages also do it in Nov/Dec - costs about 50 pounds.

I have also used spray on asphault (?) rust proofing which comes in a can for touch up on the bottom of the car.

Rust prevention is big issue here.

 

George,

My car is originally from Canada ( Quebec ) and whoever had it over there must have done a good rustproofing job as at 18 years old it still looks as good as new, obviously, as you say, theres a lot of upkeep to be done to stay on top of it, but to preserve cars like ours i certainly believe it's worth it!!

And to think we brits moan about about the weather!!!! I bet you guys have it a lot tougher than us!!!!!

Take care

Phil

 

Guys:

A good tip for you when using Waxoyl is to to place the tin into a bucket of hot water, but not submerge it. Leave it there for 15 minutes before starting the job. You'll find it makes the product far less viscous and much easier to work with.

 

Uhhh, floor pan rust and any kind of construction don't mix well. If the floor rusts through, you fall through

 

to be hounest i think thats a bit harsh or you RMK attacking Dr G's comment. its important but in this perticular car i think its a bigger issue than in some others and some people might not think about it as an issue at all, sorta like a "oo it'll never happen to me and if it does it'll be fixed easily" things.

JAmes

 

Interesting statement. However, I never attacked Gordon in any way. I merley pointed out that floor pan rust is not a good thing in general. There is nothing in my post that suggests any attack like you say, merley a reinforcement of what he said with a worried

I saw Gordon the other week, tried calling him from work tonight as I stayed back till 11:30 before I came home to read this, but his cell rang out.

I have no reason to attack or have any problems with Gordon, what makes you think that I do?

Robert

 

I didn't read that as an attack, as I'm sure Dr G didn't. It was a continuation of the theme that Dr G started. Basically rust is bad

Thanks for the tip of using the hot bucket of water for 15 mins before hand. I tried that and it does help. I think I will also use a bit of thinners to help the spread for all the box sections.

Do you think it is worth taking the carpets out and spraying that side of the floor? Surely you only really need to cover the metal exposed to water potentially? I think if I did the smell would be unbearable- my clothes still stunk after a full wash in the machine!

What I find amusing is that my tin of waxoyl has rusted....

 

BWAHAHAHAHA :sillylol: :sillylol: :sillylol:

Felix, idealy I would like to remove the carpet alltogether and coat the entire thing with POR-15. Rust can occur from the inside too with a small T-Top leak over the years. It's a big job, but one that could wait until the crap weather starts comming back in.....so I'd start it in about 8 days or so....


Robert

 

Very true Rob. I would recommend POR-15 for that job also though a Hammerite would also work well. But POR-15 is more suitable for the undersider.

Another thing worth checking is that all of your drainage holes are clear. One that most people forget about it the one at the bottom of the spare wheel enclosure, but they're all important.

Hopefully on the outside! Otherwise the product ain't all it's cracked up to be.

 

Yeah only on the outside Guess that proves a point in itself! To do the inside too....

Luckily I don't have t-tops (though sometimes I wished I did) and the car is now almost always garaged which is cool. I have noticed the bottom of the doors have got bad so I will Kurust and then Hammerite them followed by waxoyl.

It could well slow me down the 1/4 with all this extra weight

 

word of warning here... I have heard tell of using old engine oil as a rust proofer... so far so good... the down side is that apparently with all the additives that go into petrol this doesn't do your car a whole lot of good either... just something to think about

 

just to elaborate on ircofan's point, used engine oil is acidic, not a real problem, but far from ideal.

one word for rustproofing. Waxoyle. where it is, rust aint.