Starter heat shield
05-07-2003, 02:54 AM
#1
Starter heat shield
Since the headers, the car struggles to start after some heat soak. I know the various fixes for this but the one I would like to adopt is a heat shield. 2 questions;
1) Where can you buy them from as cheaply as possible?
2) Do you have to take the starter out to install it?
Cheers,
Felix
1) Where can you buy them from as cheaply as possible?
2) Do you have to take the starter out to install it?
Cheers,
Felix
05-07-2003, 08:27 AM
#2
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Car: 1987 Black IROC-Z (SOLD)
You can buy one at Summit or Jegs for example and they run about $20 us dollars. Installation is not a bolt on and will require modifications. I gave up on it and just bought a Minni-Starter.
That was 3 yrs ago and it solved the heat soak problem from the headers.
That was 3 yrs ago and it solved the heat soak problem from the headers.
05-07-2003, 08:31 AM
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This may sound crazy...but it's worked for me several times. In the IROC, when I swapped in the 5 speed, the automatic starter wouldn't fit into the manual bellhousing, so I bought a starter for a 5 speed car.
The IROC has had it's headers for a GOOD while, and with the auto starter, I NEVER once experienced any delay in starting from heat soak. With the new starter, only after running it a good bit, it will not crank as fast as it should. Turns out that the main power wire from the battery to the starter is a good bit closer to the headers now. So I used small tie wraps to keep it as close to the subframe as possible...no more delay in starting.
Try this before buying a shield.
HTH
The IROC has had it's headers for a GOOD while, and with the auto starter, I NEVER once experienced any delay in starting from heat soak. With the new starter, only after running it a good bit, it will not crank as fast as it should. Turns out that the main power wire from the battery to the starter is a good bit closer to the headers now. So I used small tie wraps to keep it as close to the subframe as possible...no more delay in starting.
Try this before buying a shield.
HTH
05-08-2003, 05:45 AM
#4
Moderator
Felix,
Had the same problem. Cheap to fix. Call Ultimate Spares and order a starter heat shield. Costs about £17 and is a woven material with 2 ties to hold it on. Jack the front of the car up and you can squeeze it round the started. Believe me, it is a tight squeeze but it fits with the proper use of shouting and swearing.
Once wraped round use the lock ties that came with it and forget about it.
Robert
Had the same problem. Cheap to fix. Call Ultimate Spares and order a starter heat shield. Costs about £17 and is a woven material with 2 ties to hold it on. Jack the front of the car up and you can squeeze it round the started. Believe me, it is a tight squeeze but it fits with the proper use of shouting and swearing.
Once wraped round use the lock ties that came with it and forget about it.
Robert
05-08-2003, 06:48 AM
#5
Felix:-
How close is your starter to the headers? This can cause a lot of problems with trying to get the heat-shield around! And make it even harder than it is with stock manifolds.
Yup that technique is often the only way to get things to work! 
How close is your starter to the headers? This can cause a lot of problems with trying to get the heat-shield around! And make it even harder than it is with stock manifolds.
Believe me, it is a tight squeeze but it fits with the proper use of shouting and swearing.
05-09-2003, 07:00 AM
#7
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Car: 1987 Black IROC-Z (SOLD)
Originally posted by DJP87Z28
You can buy one at Summit or Jegs for example and they run about $20 us dollars. Installation is not a bolt on and will require modifications. I gave up on it and just bought a Minni-Starter.
That was 3 yrs ago and it solved the heat soak problem from the headers.
You can buy one at Summit or Jegs for example and they run about $20 us dollars. Installation is not a bolt on and will require modifications. I gave up on it and just bought a Minni-Starter.
That was 3 yrs ago and it solved the heat soak problem from the headers.
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05-10-2003, 06:36 AM
#8
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Taking the starter out is no deal as long as the exhaust is cold!LOL!
Dont get a "big" accel starter it´s not worth a dime..oops cent!
What kind of headers are you using?
The death fix is to get a tilton or other ministarter!
The big solution , Kickin several topics :
get a PA subframe ,tilton and weld a header!
Sell the stock parts and enjoy the superliter Fbody!
Dont get a "big" accel starter it´s not worth a dime..oops cent!
What kind of headers are you using?
The death fix is to get a tilton or other ministarter!
The big solution , Kickin several topics :
get a PA subframe ,tilton and weld a header!
Sell the stock parts and enjoy the superliter Fbody!
05-10-2003, 12:14 PM
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The pic is 10 years old..00ps!
Way before Pa started up we did our own frontend "subframe"!
Everyone nkows that this is the point to start, cause it makes thinks very easy for all other parts later to be put on!
The headers are worth a crate of beer and were welded up at a members workdesk>>>that guy is a performance terrorist and with his 62 years he still welds like king Karl!
The brakes are a race only set up, most of our members switch brakes to suit there needs....they wouldn´t stop in heavy state traffic.But they do handle there duties on the track!2200pds are not much to handle i guess!
When time allows we´ll update both the website and our tech stuff!For now we are working with all our might on some
things that will make a thougher club- background more stable!
A schoolmate is doing computer stuff in london, she still wants to see me over there.........you talked about a shop doing ya car there called pontiac service..any info on that guy?
That 2,77 is funny long at the track, that must have been some carb working to get the gal running into 13.8.....lunch rpm is how high????
Way before Pa started up we did our own frontend "subframe"!
Everyone nkows that this is the point to start, cause it makes thinks very easy for all other parts later to be put on!
The headers are worth a crate of beer and were welded up at a members workdesk>>>that guy is a performance terrorist and with his 62 years he still welds like king Karl!
The brakes are a race only set up, most of our members switch brakes to suit there needs....they wouldn´t stop in heavy state traffic.But they do handle there duties on the track!2200pds are not much to handle i guess!
When time allows we´ll update both the website and our tech stuff!For now we are working with all our might on some
things that will make a thougher club- background more stable!
A schoolmate is doing computer stuff in london, she still wants to see me over there.........you talked about a shop doing ya car there called pontiac service..any info on that guy?
That 2,77 is funny long at the track, that must have been some carb working to get the gal running into 13.8.....lunch rpm is how high????
05-11-2003, 02:42 AM
#11
Hi,
Robin at Autopontiac; based near Twickenham. I will give you the details shortly!
2200 pounds? Wow
That is Lotus Elise type weight!
I originally had the 2.77 gears when I got the 13.8. Since then I have changed to a 9 bolt 3.23 with POSI and my time has slipped slightly!! Also have this damn humming/droning. The alum. driveshaft has pushed the speed up from 90 to 105 before the droning begs me to stop
Any ideas? It was never there before the rear axle swap..... The fact that the alum. shaft has helped leads me to confirm it is definitely driveline... maybe I should get it balanced?
Cheers
Robin at Autopontiac; based near Twickenham. I will give you the details shortly!
2200 pounds? Wow
That is Lotus Elise type weight!I originally had the 2.77 gears when I got the 13.8. Since then I have changed to a 9 bolt 3.23 with POSI and my time has slipped slightly!! Also have this damn humming/droning. The alum. driveshaft has pushed the speed up from 90 to 105 before the droning begs me to stop
Any ideas? It was never there before the rear axle swap..... The fact that the alum. shaft has helped leads me to confirm it is definitely driveline... maybe I should get it balanced?Cheers
05-11-2003, 04:32 AM
#12
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Autopontiac? About a year or so we had someone coming and calling for GTA´s all the time!He used a flight to come to Berlin wich was completly off compared to those germans we have coming with Greyhund to pick there stuff up!
That baby got a full diet, seems that 70% of us went that way!
Its not a daily so as with most of us we pull them out to shows and when the sun sets down and the avg su..ker is watching TV and our famous "AVUS" is free to let go!
Thats a city Track like Long Beach and top speed in the DTM series was 330 by the Ruch Mustang in 93!
"Also have this damn humming/droning", sorry but that sounds like the diff!If ya lucky the axle bearing!
We had a GTA we pulled to the drags and it also had the 9Bolt, pretty tuff rear but the axle bearing was death!At some speeds and while cornering the car gave a deep droning, not very loud but you could hear it!
Are you using a drop springs?If so you need some LCA Relocation Brackets to get the suspension set up right!
Just asking if you driveshaft has the correct degree?Have you checked with a clinometer?
The pic you provided showed the blk clip ,thats a two channel clip...we ripped a door to get the second one!LOL!Damm!
That baby got a full diet, seems that 70% of us went that way!
Its not a daily so as with most of us we pull them out to shows and when the sun sets down and the avg su..ker is watching TV and our famous "AVUS" is free to let go!
Thats a city Track like Long Beach and top speed in the DTM series was 330 by the Ruch Mustang in 93!
"Also have this damn humming/droning", sorry but that sounds like the diff!If ya lucky the axle bearing!
We had a GTA we pulled to the drags and it also had the 9Bolt, pretty tuff rear but the axle bearing was death!At some speeds and while cornering the car gave a deep droning, not very loud but you could hear it!
Are you using a drop springs?If so you need some LCA Relocation Brackets to get the suspension set up right!
Just asking if you driveshaft has the correct degree?Have you checked with a clinometer?
The pic you provided showed the blk clip ,thats a two channel clip...we ripped a door to get the second one!LOL!Damm!
05-12-2003, 05:22 AM
#14
Moderator
The jacket is about 2mm thick. I wouldn't worry about it touching the exhaust as the thing appears to be fire resistant.
Robert
Robert
05-23-2003, 07:31 PM
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Car: 2009 Volvo V50 R Design
Engine: 2.0 turbo diesel
Transmission: 6 speed auto
Axle/Gears: yes, both
try thermo-tec exhaust wrap on the headers as well, it comes endorsed by Smokey Eunick, and seems like a good product.
we use it at work on Kart exhausts, and after a full days running, you can hold the pipe in your hand withiut getting burned
we use it at work on Kart exhausts, and after a full days running, you can hold the pipe in your hand withiut getting burned
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