My car has at some point been thoroughly waxoyled, its full of sticky yellow goo between the pannels, inside the doors etc...

I know the stuff is good and thick, coz i got plasterd in it when i changed the door locks - what i want to know is, does this stuff have a life expectancy, or once its in, is it in and thats that?

Is it worth spraying waxoyle around the wheelarch lip to stop the salt getting in there over winter?

its probably gonna get driven through winter, but it will be kept surgicaly clean.

 

Hi mate,

They always say that if there is a pinprick in the waxoyl then moisture can get behind it and get trapped making the whole process counter productive. If posssible I would just spray everything again. I recently finished doing mine- man that stuff stinks for weeks after and it takes a while. If you do go for it again, use a generator and don't bother with the stupid pump cans that you can buy as it was a PITA.

need to speak to you soon pal,
Felix

 

I'm sure I read in one of my old classic car mags that it's best to re-apply the waxoil on a yearly basis.

The pumps are a bit of a nightmare, even when you submerge the can in hot water to make the stuff flow easier .... a generator would be a million times better and would allow a far more thorough job to be done.

 

A little help for some of us clueless Yanks...

Is "generator" the functional equivalent of what we would term "air compressor"? Just curious.

With all the winter driven vehicle I have, I've never reapplied rustproffing unless some work or replacement was done that would remove or damage the original. If your's is peeling off, it might be a good idea. I've had good success with frequent washing, especially in the undercarriage and wheel openings. That's the primary reason that I have cold and hot water in my garage, to connect a hose and rinse periodically during the winter salt season.

For another somewhat related question, are your road and highway departments using only salt, or have they begun using the calcium chloride, potassium chloride, amd lime chips for traction control? In my area of the States, finely crushed lime is now used as a traction aid on icy or snow-packed surfaces. This leaves a nasty, yellow powder all over everything, abrades the glass and chrome, and the occasional larger pieces can even be thrown up and crack lamps and windshields (screens). I hate it. I'd prefer they go back to using cinders and ash from coal-fired plants instead. At least it wasn't as abrasive or caustic.

 

Hi Vader.
A compressor in the UK is exactly the same as a compressor in the States! I think a slight mistake (faux pas) in the use of the english language has taken place here!

I sometimes reapply, or just reheat what is there already! A fan heater placed under the door, pointing at the botom will make it flow again, and cover up any "pinholes". The sills (rocker panels for you "clueless yanks"!!!) are perfect for this treatment. I make sure the drain holes are clear, put the front or rear on ramps and heat up the highest end. It will then run downhill and ensure full coverage. The fan heater is then moved down gradually.
Waxoyl has been proven to shrink and crack and expose areas when it is applied. Dinitrol 3125 (I think it is called) is supposedly far better. What good it would do on waxoyl that was already there, I don't know.

Andy.