Notes on Installation of Hooker Long Tube Headers (2210)
#101
Supreme Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Decatur, Illinois
Posts: 2,906
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So there were no problems with the t56? That is awsome. I already have the longtubes, but want to get a t56. I thought that I had read that they wouldnt fit together.
Ben
Ben
#104
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Maryland
Posts: 897
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1993 Toyota Supra
Engine: Inline 6
Transmission: 6 Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.13
I'll take a pic of the drivers side tommarrow when i'm back under the car so that you can see the clearance on that side.
#105
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Newport Beach, California
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 1992 TPI 350
Transmission: 1989 T5
Axle/Gears: 1992 10 Bolt Rear w/ 3.42 gearing
i would just like to mention some of my experiences compared to some of trax's experiences...
i agree with all points except the ones that i reference here:
point#
2. the stock starter worked fine, we removed it to install the headers then reinstalled it
4. and 5. no grinding neccessary
13. my mufflex y-pipe bolted right up... but it is a bit of a puzzle because some of the pieces(particularly the pieces that bolt to header collectors) have different angles built in to them.. my only complaint about mufflex is that i broke one of the clamps that comes with their stuff
15. i bought the mufflex 3.5" single outlet cat-back, it fit ]PERFECTLY[ with the mufflex y-pipe ... everything tucks up very very nicely(it is up to you to make it tuck up nicely though, there is plently of play in a system with that many joints)
16. i used my 80k mile stock motor mounts
18. my stock plugs worked fine with the headers(i have stock heads) but i did need angled boots
and that's it, just a summary of how my experiences differed from Traxion's
i agree with all points except the ones that i reference here:
point#
2. the stock starter worked fine, we removed it to install the headers then reinstalled it
4. and 5. no grinding neccessary
13. my mufflex y-pipe bolted right up... but it is a bit of a puzzle because some of the pieces(particularly the pieces that bolt to header collectors) have different angles built in to them.. my only complaint about mufflex is that i broke one of the clamps that comes with their stuff
15. i bought the mufflex 3.5" single outlet cat-back, it fit ]PERFECTLY[ with the mufflex y-pipe ... everything tucks up very very nicely(it is up to you to make it tuck up nicely though, there is plently of play in a system with that many joints)
16. i used my 80k mile stock motor mounts
18. my stock plugs worked fine with the headers(i have stock heads) but i did need angled boots
and that's it, just a summary of how my experiences differed from Traxion's
Last edited by prockbp; 06-07-2003 at 06:07 PM.
#106
Supreme Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Decatur, Illinois
Posts: 2,906
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by prockbp
i would just like to mention some of my experiences compared to some of trax's experiences...
i agree with all points except the ones that i reference here:
point#
2. the stock starter worked fine, we removed it to install the headers then reinstalled it
4. and 5. no grinding neccessary
13. my mufflex y-pipe bolted right up... but it is a bit of a puzzle because some of the pieces(particularly the pieces that bolt to header collectors) have different angles built in to them.. my only complaint about mufflex is that i broke one of the clamps that comes with their stuff
15. i bought the mufflex 3.5" single outlet cat-back, it fit ]PERFECTLY[ with the mufflex y-pipe ... everything tucks up very very nicely(it is up to you to make it tuck up nicely though, there is plently of play in a system with that many joints)
16. i used my 80k mile stock motor mounts
18. my stock plugs worked fine with the headers(i have stock heads) but i did need angled boots
and that's it, just a summary of how my experiences differed from Traxion's
i would just like to mention some of my experiences compared to some of trax's experiences...
i agree with all points except the ones that i reference here:
point#
2. the stock starter worked fine, we removed it to install the headers then reinstalled it
4. and 5. no grinding neccessary
13. my mufflex y-pipe bolted right up... but it is a bit of a puzzle because some of the pieces(particularly the pieces that bolt to header collectors) have different angles built in to them.. my only complaint about mufflex is that i broke one of the clamps that comes with their stuff
15. i bought the mufflex 3.5" single outlet cat-back, it fit ]PERFECTLY[ with the mufflex y-pipe ... everything tucks up very very nicely(it is up to you to make it tuck up nicely though, there is plently of play in a system with that many joints)
16. i used my 80k mile stock motor mounts
18. my stock plugs worked fine with the headers(i have stock heads) but i did need angled boots
and that's it, just a summary of how my experiences differed from Traxion's
2. I used the stock starter for a while, but I happened upon a lt1 starter that didnt cost anything so I am using it. I actually had the stock one in and out a couple times with the headers also and I only had to remove the slip fit primary.
4. and 5. Ditto. No grinding.
16. I did however have "new" rubber mounts.
18. I used stock plugs and they worked with a shorty socket I made, but when I changed them I used shorties because it just made it a bit easier. (ported 416 heads)
Ben
#107
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Salem, NH
Posts: 1,851
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1999 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 6 Speed
Axle/Gears: 9" 4.11 Truetrac
where can i get this mufflex Y pipe, whats the part # and will it clear a T5 tranny also would a 2" drop cause this setup to sit on the ground?
#108
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Maryland
Posts: 2,844
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 2005 Subaru STI
Engine: 153ci of Turbo Power!
Transmission: 6-Speed
Originally posted by SLP IROC-Z
where can i get this mufflex Y pipe, whats the part # and will it clear a T5 tranny also would a 2" drop cause this setup to sit on the ground?
where can i get this mufflex Y pipe, whats the part # and will it clear a T5 tranny also would a 2" drop cause this setup to sit on the ground?
Tim
#109
Supreme Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 2,119
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 86 Iroc-Z28
Engine: FB385
Transmission: 700r4
Got mine in the car last week with very little problems as well. I have a mini starter which worked out great and i too had no clearancing issues, so far! I recently did a motor swap and had bought new mounts, but when we got the motor out, the stock 82K mile mounts were still in great shape, so i decided to hold off on those. I also had some minor issues with the brake lines on the pass. side of the k-member, which i just simply moved around a bit! Was carefull not to crease it, just bent it around a bit so there would be no more problems with it. The hardest damn part of this install, for me, was getting the damn oil filter off! lol I have a crate motor and they put that damn filter on so tight it was unblievable! I went up to Pep Boys twice to get different wrenches for it and i wound up getting lucky with one of them. The oil filter looked like confetti when i was done with it. That needed to be done and also jacking the car up high enough to get the drivers side header in. Besides that the install went pretty smoothly. Thanks to the people who responded to TRAXION'S post as well as TRAXION himself for getting this info out there! I mean, it could be done without this thread but it just went more smoothly and i kinda knew what to expect with this info being out here. As far as an exhaust system, have no clue what to go with now. I mean i have some ideas, but i am open to suggestions, that is if you read through my BS post! lol Thanks for your time and help guys. Later-Bryan
#110
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Salem, NH
Posts: 1,851
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1999 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 6 Speed
Axle/Gears: 9" 4.11 Truetrac
can one of u guys measuer from the closes part of the header to the ground and what ur fender lip to ground height is as well.
#112
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Boynton Beach, FL
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 2001 C5 convertible
Pictures of the full setup nearly finished
Got some pics while I the car was at the shop having the joints of the y-pipe welded, as well as having the O2 bungs welded in and the muffler hangers fabbed.
The pics are a bit large, so dialup users beware. I may get around to shrinking them down, or may not.
Pic 1
Pic 2
Pic # (clamps still in place in this one)
Pic 4 (good full-length side shot of the car -- angle is a bit deceiving though)
Pic 5
Pic 6
Pic 7 - clearance between Skulte T56 crossmember and Mufflex Y-pipe after tweaking
Enjoy :-)
Andrew Choset
88 IROC-Z
The pics are a bit large, so dialup users beware. I may get around to shrinking them down, or may not.
Pic 1
Pic 2
Pic # (clamps still in place in this one)
Pic 4 (good full-length side shot of the car -- angle is a bit deceiving though)
Pic 5
Pic 6
Pic 7 - clearance between Skulte T56 crossmember and Mufflex Y-pipe after tweaking
Enjoy :-)
Andrew Choset
88 IROC-Z
#113
Supreme Member
I just ordered Part# HED-68460-6 from summit, Hedman Coated Longtubes... mainly out of curiosity. I wanted to see how the long tubes would fit in my car...
now im really curious. Ill be using the stock 100K motor mount, a 700R4, and I have a catback on it right now. the motors coming out this week so i was going to test fit the hedmans on the motor before i removed it....
One of my concerns is I need the O2 sensor in the headers, and i dont think those are coming with it, so Im wondering if i need to get a diff. part number with the O2 hole or how can i modify them with the coating on them for the O2 sensor... ?
now im really curious. Ill be using the stock 100K motor mount, a 700R4, and I have a catback on it right now. the motors coming out this week so i was going to test fit the hedmans on the motor before i removed it....
One of my concerns is I need the O2 sensor in the headers, and i dont think those are coming with it, so Im wondering if i need to get a diff. part number with the O2 hole or how can i modify them with the coating on them for the O2 sensor... ?
#114
Supreme Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Pitman, NJ
Posts: 2,009
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
4 Posts
Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
Well I just installed my Hooker Long tubes..... I installed them while I was putting in the motor and I have stock motor mounts.
1) The driver's side header dropped right in with absolutely no clearance problems.
2) The passenger side is a major PITA. It hit all the places TRAXION mentioned. I'm still trying to get it to fit nicely. I also had to bend the brake lines way out of the way
3) I thought my stock starter would fit but it DEFINATELY doesn't unless I beat in some of the tubes ....so a mini-starter is on order.
4) I have vortec heads which are straight plug. The #7 plug is so close you couldnt even remove it so I dented the tube in and now its got plenty of clearance. I'm glad I didn't buy the nice purdy ceramic coated ones because I've scraped and dented these things to sh!!t.
Really fun ....about as fun as getting your teeth pulled out.
1) The driver's side header dropped right in with absolutely no clearance problems.
2) The passenger side is a major PITA. It hit all the places TRAXION mentioned. I'm still trying to get it to fit nicely. I also had to bend the brake lines way out of the way
3) I thought my stock starter would fit but it DEFINATELY doesn't unless I beat in some of the tubes ....so a mini-starter is on order.
4) I have vortec heads which are straight plug. The #7 plug is so close you couldnt even remove it so I dented the tube in and now its got plenty of clearance. I'm glad I didn't buy the nice purdy ceramic coated ones because I've scraped and dented these things to sh!!t.
Really fun ....about as fun as getting your teeth pulled out.
#116
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Maryland
Posts: 2,844
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 2005 Subaru STI
Engine: 153ci of Turbo Power!
Transmission: 6-Speed
Originally posted by Kingtal0n
can anyone share experience with the hedman longtubes?
can anyone share experience with the hedman longtubes?
Tim
#117
Senior Member
Thanks to all who have contributed to this post, i have been considering installing hooker long tubes for some time but have heard of alot of problems, but this thread has seemed to address them all, except one...
Will the long tubes fit with A/C system still intact...i looked thru all the pics and could seem to find anyone that retained the a/c???
thanks again for this great post!!!
later
larry
Will the long tubes fit with A/C system still intact...i looked thru all the pics and could seem to find anyone that retained the a/c???
thanks again for this great post!!!
later
larry
#118
Supreme Member
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Stillwater, OK
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 355 DFI Superram w/ R-Trim
Transmission: Probuilt 700r4
88+ cars with the serp belt system will have no issues with retaining the A/C. There are a couple of braces that mount from the stock manifolds to the accessory brackets to help eliminate vibration. It is your choice to eliminate them or fabricate some custom spacers down on the header to keep them. Nobody I know uses the braces, and we all have been running without them for years with no vibration issues whatsoever.
I am running A/C and supercomps with zero problems. (see sig pic)
I am running A/C and supercomps with zero problems. (see sig pic)
Last edited by JMatlock88; 07-12-2003 at 09:07 AM.
#119
Supreme Member
uh oh. whats it mean when the coating turns from shiny silver to a non-shiny flat white color? i think they got a little too hot.
#120
Originally posted by Kingtal0n
uh oh. whats it mean when the coating turns from shiny silver to a non-shiny flat white color? i think they got a little too hot.
uh oh. whats it mean when the coating turns from shiny silver to a non-shiny flat white color? i think they got a little too hot.
#121
Supreme Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Decatur, Illinois
Posts: 2,906
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Kingtal0n
uh oh. whats it mean when the coating turns from shiny silver to a non-shiny flat white color? i think they got a little too hot.
uh oh. whats it mean when the coating turns from shiny silver to a non-shiny flat white color? i think they got a little too hot.
Ben
#122
Supreme Member
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Stillwater, OK
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 355 DFI Superram w/ R-Trim
Transmission: Probuilt 700r4
I did the same thing. Mine got to the point where the alum began to surface (looks like aluminum sandpaper shavings on the pipes) A scotch brite pad and some restoration polish found at www.hpcoatings.com did the trick to restore the finish.
#123
Supreme Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 2,972
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So your saying if you want coated headers on your new engine you have to buy the non coated ones then put them on break it in then take them back off to coat them
#124
Supreme Member
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Stillwater, OK
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 355 DFI Superram w/ R-Trim
Transmission: Probuilt 700r4
Not really. Most can/will correct the timing immediately on a predictable new motor setup. As for my situation, I had to run my timing far from stock for it to run right on the stock chip. Timing was way off where it needed to be at idle but closer at cruising speeds, hence the red headers at idle. I had a new chip within a few days, but the coating was damaged slightly.
#125
Supreme Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Decatur, Illinois
Posts: 2,906
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mine was also a mishap. I had the wrong timing mark so I had the timing way to retarted for cam break in. I think that if you have everything set right you would be fine.
Ben
Ben
#127
Originally posted by Spdfrk1990
thats cool just the way they were talkin was like ohh no u used coated headers on the break in
thats cool just the way they were talkin was like ohh no u used coated headers on the break in
we were talkin like ohh no b/c you wont find any header company that will warranty the ceramic coating if it was used during engine break in.
#129
Supreme Member
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Oakville, Ct
Posts: 1,383
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1991Firebird T/A
Engine: 350
Transmission: Modified Viper t-56
Axle/Gears: dana 44, 3.55
Since just about everyone in here is using the mufflex catback system, what muffler does everyone prefer as far as sound? spintech or the flowmaster?
#130
Supreme Member
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Stillwater, OK
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 355 DFI Superram w/ R-Trim
Transmission: Probuilt 700r4
My three chamber Flowmaster 4" is extremely quiet and unagressive. It has a tin/metalic mid range exhaust note.
Last edited by JMatlock88; 07-15-2003 at 10:38 PM.
#131
Supreme Member
<b>A wet rag took the white back to the shiney coating</b>
A wet rag? so if i go out there with some water on a rag and wipe real hard it may fix the coating?
<b>A scotch brite pad and some restoration polish found at www.hpcoatings.com did the trick to restore the finish.</b>
what is scotch brite and what is restoration polish and how do i use it? after i try the wet rag trick of course...
and no it wasnt a "brand new" motor it had about 200 miles on it, but it was running at about 2* advance for the first few minutes while i set up the base map so it would idle steady for me to check the timing. i kept running back and forth between the throttle body and the desktop computer (in the car) to set the darn idle, then took me about 2 minutes to figure out how much fuel was too much on the map. sigh*
A wet rag? so if i go out there with some water on a rag and wipe real hard it may fix the coating?
<b>A scotch brite pad and some restoration polish found at www.hpcoatings.com did the trick to restore the finish.</b>
what is scotch brite and what is restoration polish and how do i use it? after i try the wet rag trick of course...
and no it wasnt a "brand new" motor it had about 200 miles on it, but it was running at about 2* advance for the first few minutes while i set up the base map so it would idle steady for me to check the timing. i kept running back and forth between the throttle body and the desktop computer (in the car) to set the darn idle, then took me about 2 minutes to figure out how much fuel was too much on the map. sigh*
#132
Supreme Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Decatur, Illinois
Posts: 2,906
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Kingtal0n
A wet rag? so if i go out there with some water on a rag and wipe real hard it may fix the coating?
A wet rag? so if i go out there with some water on a rag and wipe real hard it may fix the coating?
Ben
#133
Supreme Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Lima, OH
Posts: 1,096
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: '89 Formula 350 & '86 Z28
Engine: L98 & 355ci
Transmission: 700r4 in both
Ive read all the way through, but I cant seem to fin out how much the headers were?
Ive seen them for $399, but how much are they from jet-hot pre coated?
Ive seen them for $399, but how much are they from jet-hot pre coated?
#135
Supreme Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Lima, OH
Posts: 1,096
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: '89 Formula 350 & '86 Z28
Engine: L98 & 355ci
Transmission: 700r4 in both
hmm, i jsut called and they quoted me $628 shipped? did you get any club discounts or anything?
#138
Supreme Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Pitman, NJ
Posts: 2,009
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
4 Posts
Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
Am I the only person having issues with getting the header bolts in? I installed the headers a week or so ago but didnt put all the bolts in. Today I go out to put in the final bolts and like 3 of them wont go in because the primary tube hits 'em. I have Stage 8 locking bolts but I dont use the locks ....I guess I'm gonna round off the end of the bolt and just use an allen wrench to screw them in......
#139
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Maryland
Posts: 897
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1993 Toyota Supra
Engine: Inline 6
Transmission: 6 Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.13
i had that problem only on the number one cynlinder primary. All the rest were fine for me.I just nouched it in with a hammer and all is well now.
#141
Supreme Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Evansville,IN,USA
Posts: 2,025
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 89' T/A, 00' Firehawk
Engine: 406 Roller
Transmission: TH700R4 w/2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi
Originally posted by 88IROC350TPI
Am I the only person having issues with getting the header bolts in? I installed the headers a week or so ago but didnt put all the bolts in. Today I go out to put in the final bolts and like 3 of them wont go in because the primary tube hits 'em. I have Stage 8 locking bolts but I dont use the locks ....I guess I'm gonna round off the end of the bolt and just use an allen wrench to screw them in......
Am I the only person having issues with getting the header bolts in? I installed the headers a week or so ago but didnt put all the bolts in. Today I go out to put in the final bolts and like 3 of them wont go in because the primary tube hits 'em. I have Stage 8 locking bolts but I dont use the locks ....I guess I'm gonna round off the end of the bolt and just use an allen wrench to screw them in......
Jason
#142
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Maryland
Posts: 897
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1993 Toyota Supra
Engine: Inline 6
Transmission: 6 Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.13
Originally posted by fb305svs
doesnt jegs sell them already coated? liek 550 bucks....
doesnt jegs sell them already coated? liek 550 bucks....
#143
Supreme Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Decatur, Illinois
Posts: 2,906
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by LilJayV10
On some of the bolts, in the middle cylinders, I had to start them first with the header pulled back a little from the head because the primary tube swelled about 1/2 from the flange, hope this helps some.
Jason
On some of the bolts, in the middle cylinders, I had to start them first with the header pulled back a little from the head because the primary tube swelled about 1/2 from the flange, hope this helps some.
Jason
Ben
#144
Supreme Member
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Oakville, Ct
Posts: 1,383
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1991Firebird T/A
Engine: 350
Transmission: Modified Viper t-56
Axle/Gears: dana 44, 3.55
Just got my set- got them bolted up to the motor on the engine stand... i have a very usefull measurement for all of you wondering how much lower they hang than normal exhaust's
refer to the pic below, if someone wants to host it, that's fine by me- dunno if my ISP is gonna aprreciate a bunch of hits lol..
anyways, using the bottom of a stock oilpan as a measurement (specifically the gm pan that comes on the zz3's, which is the same size as out stock pans) it comes out to the headers hanging about 1 3/4" below the oil pan to the lowest point.
Although this seems like a lot to some of you, keep in mind that a lot of people's y-pipes are the actual lowest part in their exhuast systems.
Good luck everyone, here's the pics of mine- ordered through summit, 589 bucks, ceramic coated.... things are beautiful, best quality header i have ever seen to be honest.
http://home.zebra.net/~stevesoares/w.../P1001216a.jpg
http://home.zebra.net/~stevesoares/w.../P1001220a.jpg
http://home.zebra.net/~stevesoares/w...P1001223aa.jpg
refer to the pic below, if someone wants to host it, that's fine by me- dunno if my ISP is gonna aprreciate a bunch of hits lol..
anyways, using the bottom of a stock oilpan as a measurement (specifically the gm pan that comes on the zz3's, which is the same size as out stock pans) it comes out to the headers hanging about 1 3/4" below the oil pan to the lowest point.
Although this seems like a lot to some of you, keep in mind that a lot of people's y-pipes are the actual lowest part in their exhuast systems.
Good luck everyone, here's the pics of mine- ordered through summit, 589 bucks, ceramic coated.... things are beautiful, best quality header i have ever seen to be honest.
http://home.zebra.net/~stevesoares/w.../P1001216a.jpg
http://home.zebra.net/~stevesoares/w.../P1001220a.jpg
http://home.zebra.net/~stevesoares/w...P1001223aa.jpg
#145
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Indpls IN US
Posts: 812
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 91 Z28
Engine: Forged 383
Transmission: Pro-built 700R4
Those ceramic coated headers do look better than the Jet-Hot coated ones that I've seen, plus they're cheaper. But I'm curious to know what your guy's opinions are on whether or not to order the 2210's with ceramic coating? Or is a coating like Jet-Hot or similar coating much better as far as reducing temps and looking perty for a long time? If I need to ask this q in a new post I will, but I figured more guys with the 2210's would be more apt to check out this thread.
#146
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Maryland
Posts: 897
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1993 Toyota Supra
Engine: Inline 6
Transmission: 6 Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.13
those ceramic coated ones look just like my jet hot ones. I don't see the difference in the pics versus mine on my car.
#147
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Maryland
Posts: 2,844
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 2005 Subaru STI
Engine: 153ci of Turbo Power!
Transmission: 6-Speed
If you really want to do it right then you will want the Jet Hot coating because you can get their special 2000º coating. That level of protection isn't available from Hooker.
Tim
Tim
#149
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: north plainfield, nj
Posts: 2,177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 05' GTO
Engine: 6.0L
Transmission: A4
i had the same problem with the bolts and i used the stage 8 locking header bolts. you will have to grind down the washer they give u like in the picture they supply where it looks like a C. i had to do that on a few of them to get them to fit.
the only problems i have now is the y pipe its the trans xmember everynow and then and will vibrate(not so bad) but then i also have a few exuast leaks ill have to weld up closed.
does anyone think the spin tech pro street muffler will sound good with the hooker long tubes and mufflex ypipe (i have no cats shhhh)?
i heard that one guys car the one with the blue z28 with the custom true duals and i like how it sounds but thats true dual and not single. also i forgot you it was but someone has there flowmaster i think with the center inlet and outlet and the single dump in the stock location. i was thinkin of running mine becuz everyone around here has the hooker catback and im gettin sick of it
the only problems i have now is the y pipe its the trans xmember everynow and then and will vibrate(not so bad) but then i also have a few exuast leaks ill have to weld up closed.
does anyone think the spin tech pro street muffler will sound good with the hooker long tubes and mufflex ypipe (i have no cats shhhh)?
i heard that one guys car the one with the blue z28 with the custom true duals and i like how it sounds but thats true dual and not single. also i forgot you it was but someone has there flowmaster i think with the center inlet and outlet and the single dump in the stock location. i was thinkin of running mine becuz everyone around here has the hooker catback and im gettin sick of it