Is it me or do 90% of the links in this thread no longer work? I am trying to find pics of these headers installed with the mufflex y pipe for the 6 spd.

 

I checked and all the pics that are in my initial first post are still working fine.

Tim

 

Could be the timing since the thread is getting fairly old. I know when I do my searches most of the stuff is getting dated! Can't believe I have been on here building my car for so long already and it isn't anywhere near my "completion" stage.

On a side not, Traxion, how's the STI? I love my WRX. It's reliable, as powerful as an M6 C5 for under $2.5K in mods and its a four door to boot with decent gas mileage!! Fun cars aren't they? Visit NASIOC at all?

Now back on topic

 

I'm all over NASIOC, IWSTI, WRXFORUM, etc. ... Just under a different screenname

Love the STI ... and can you believe I already have Cobb's StreetTuner so that I can tune it myself ... hehe.

Tim

 

I just finished installing a set of 2210's on my TA today,Here are some problems and cures that I ran into..First the right side,what I thought was going to be the hard side turned out to be the easy side..I did not have jack the engine up,the right side header went right in...I ordered a jegs mini starter part # 555-10001
well it would not fit,I have a 168 tooth flywheel witch moves the starter out some. the mini starter would not clear no matter how I clocked it's postion,it would hit the header mainly right on the solnoid wiring termnial..not good..so I tried my ori GM large high torque starter...fit perfect..go figure...the slonoid being on top cleared fine.The header cleared all frame points fine...Now the left side,removed the oil filter,looked like plenty of room,no go.. Took the left side mount loose rolled the engine up,no go..I should mention that I have a oil pan with kick outs on both sides, this led to not enough room to roll the header in,I wound up cutting the header flange out between #5 & #7 cly about two and half inch's.This gave me enough room to work the header past the oil filter boss on the block and roll the header in past my pan..I hated cutting on a new set of coated hooker's but this will make future repairs much easier..all work was done on a lift witch helps a ton....ground clearence looks great...I have victor jr heads with angle plugs that clear fine and stock motor mounts..hope this helps anyone considering the 2210's

 

heres a few pics

 

another

 

top right

 

one more

 

last one

 

I am looking for a pic(s) of the the person that had a spohn crossmember and a T56 hooked up. I just bought one of Spohns torque arms that have the crossmember and driversahft loop built into it and I realy dont want to find out that there will be some serious fitment issues.

also, I really dont want to buy the mufflex y pipe just to have to sut it al up to get it to fit right so I thinkIam going to have to make my own y pipe. Where are some good places where i can buy some pipe to get me started? Any places on the web?

 

Does anybody make a y pipe that is a bolt in to the 2210 headers?

Bill

 

I just got mine, bolted to the afr heads to make sure they clear. they look great, all the plugs clear with out a problem. the closest one in #3 which clears by 3/4 of an inch with the spark plug loose and no gasket on the header all said and done I bet 7/8 of an inch will be my clearance. the rest of the plugs arn't even near the primary tubes

 

Hey did you headers go right in with out any clearance problems?

Bill

 

I should find out this weekend

I just need to find out a few specs for lift befor I get the heads milled (which will be done tomarrow)

 

Yeah what I meant was with the parts in your car? Like the crossmembers and a arms.

Bill

 

Well I'll post some of my problems installing Hooker Longtubes(2210) on my car, 92 RS with a 1968 327 engine. The driver side went in with no problems at all, went in from the bottom. The passenger side was a whole different story. I had to change my starter to a Ministarter as the old one was too big and wouldn't fit at all. I moved the knock sensor to the driver's side as clearance was an issue. I also had to do some modication ( cutting and grinding) to the frame where the A arm bolts to as the header would not clear it from the bottom. Once all that was taken care of the header fit no problem.Took me about 6 hours to do both sides. I have straight plug heads and some of the spark plugs are pretty close, I think I'll get some shorty plugs. I also bought the Mufflex TPI-Y Pipe and the 4" Exhaust with Spintech Muffler. The Mufflex system went in great. I only have one leak, near the header collector in the Y-Pipe. I'm going to get the system welded tomorrow at a Exhaust Shop. If I would of paid more attention to Traxion's post it probably would have taken me less time to install the headers.

 

LOL Right on. What type of motor mounts do you have? Some of the guys have not had to change the starter. Just wondering. Where did you get your ypipe from and how much was it? Oh yeah did your ypipe bolt right up to your headers?

Thanks

Bill

PS Sorry about the questions I am just unfamiliar with the mufflex pipe and was trying to search but sucked at that.

 

I had to install the heads befor I could bolt up the headers.


they fit fine. I had to remove the knock sensor (still have to put it on the drivers side)

I will have to grind where the a-arms mount though as right now they are very close and I think the movment of the eng. will cause them to rub. I think that is it. both went up from the bottom just have to jack up the car Really high. I left the oil cooler off when I put the eng. in the car


I will have to look at the battery cable pictures again because it is very very close to the header


I have to fab up the y-pipe still but, I am putting togeather this car ( eng. was removed and gas is 5 years old) so I have tons of little things to do


original mounts 100k

 

How do you run the wire for the knock sensor if you move it to the other side of the engine? Is it pretty easy?

 

I currently have the stock type motor mounts and they are stock, may get new ones. I got my Y-Pipe from Mufflex as well as my exhaust. Go to www.mufflex.com. Yeah the whole exhaust system went in with no real problems, just had to weld one joint a little as it was leaking, I used the clamps that were supplied by Mufflex to seal the joints. To run the knock sensor I just cut the wire spliced in an extra length and rerouted it. I routed it under the throttlebody, behind the alternator, down by the power steering pump and along the oil pan.

 

Cool sounds easy enough!!

 

Word. I think everything you just talked about was discussed in the very first post I made.

Tim

 

Hey Tim,
Yeah pretty much the same circumstances for my car. Now If I could only learn to burn my own stuff as well as you do, I'll be set. But that's a whole different topic.

Dustin

 

how are you guys keeping the starter wires from melting? I put some refective heat cloth on them but, they are very close to the primary tube. I am concerned they will touch when I am driving



this thing sounds pissed off though. I put a cam in it that I got for free, (one of my friends bought it and never used it) just to see how it works and it has a pretty good lope to it. made my own y-pipe from a new slp- sl1 longtube y-pipe (also a free be) used the slp cat back (thirdgen one) I don't think I ever heard a single pipe system sound this good

once I get the idle rpm firgured out better I will have to get a sound clip

 

I took a piece of metal tubing and custom bent it to run along the oil pan, then I ran the starter wires throught the pipe. It protects the wires from heat, water, dirt, had no problems so far.

 

the smaller wires made it below the eng. mount? looks like they are pretty well stretched now. the batt cable will clearly go that far but, the rest?

 

Does anybody have a Spohn T56 tranny x member and y pipe pic? Most of the pics are autos and the others dont come up.I had to make my own Y and dont like it.Tooo low to the ground for me.Nobody seems to have a nice 3" Y for this setup w/ 2210's. PLEASE help?????????

 

I just got done installing the 2210's and Mufflex Y-pipe today, and I must admit, no real problems at all. Setup is angle plug AFR 190's milled to 58cc, new stock rubber engine mounts

Driver's side:
Remove motor mount bolt, jack up engine about 2-3", slips right in from bottom. Removed spark plugs, oil filter, pressure switch, oil cooler delete. Relocated knock sensor. No grinding necessary. Bent brake line to clear #1 primary.

Passenger's side:
No jacking up at all. Removed spark plugs. Slips in EASILY from bottom (I guided the header flange behind the automatic transmission's bellhousing to get it up there). Already had CSR Mini Starter which cleared perfectly. Fire sleeve protected starter wires. Bent brake line out of the way. Only grinded top corner of K-member to clear #8 primary slip tube as shown in Traxion's pic.

On a lift it took about 6 hours to complete header install (THANKS TRAX!!) including removing SLP shorty headers and y-pipe.......PITA!!!!!

Mufflex Y-pipe #TPIY-O2:
I installed the y-pipe without having to cut or weld anything. I used their supplied band clamps and no leaks. Ground clearance is good. I'll have pics of the y-pipe installed soon. Now just waiting for the 4" Mufflex.

 

P/S

 

D/S

 

ok i just read all 4 pages...great thread here.. i have 87 firebird with retro 350 carbed non computer control engine mild cam ..and t-10 4 speed with manual clutch linkage from a 82-83 camaro/bird... 3 questions that didnt get addressed......

1 .. do they fit around manual clutch linkage (z-bar on pivot ball on engine?

2. will they work with a 168 tooth flywheel and mini started (hitachi style starter)
3. i have moroso solid mounts...will they fit easier or harder?


i have cheap hedman shorties and 2 1/2" y pipe now and i think there killing me, y pipe runs into 3" hi flow cat and 3" flowmaster single cat back system..

should i just buy this mufflex y pipe with the 2210's and hook it into my flowmaster cat back. does the mufflex y pipe dump out in the stock location

 

1. I'm not sure about your app. but here's a pic of how it fit around my 700R4

2. I don't see why they wouldn't fit with a mini starter.

3. With solid mounts you may have to do some clearancing around the K members on both sides like in Traxions pics (if the solid mounts sit higher than the stock mounts)

The Mufflex Y-pipe routes to the stock location but you may need an adapter that is available at www.mufflex-performance.com

 

wow...i jus read all 6 pages.....my eyes are hurtin i hope mines fit right in im gettin new oem engine mounts and super comps....oh man....lets see how it goes mnotor gets here in 3 weeks...

 

ya i agree.... but where can i get my hands on a mufflex y pipe and what should i expect to pay??

 

Nevermind, found it on the mufflex site 275 without 02 sensor. Now let me get this straight... Super Comp 2210's, mufflex y pipe, and it will dump out in the stock location so i can finish it off with the hooker cat back? And finally...will it sound like a 1000 dollar exhaust system?

 

something like this

Video - exhaustclip

 

hey that clip sound great!!!!! i cant not stand one more min. with the exhaust i have now. hooker shorty's to a homemade y-pipe then 3" flowmaster cat back. from what i have read w/ the super comp LT and the mufflex y-pipe you are able to use your cat back system to get up and over the axle????? I hope that the install is as EASY as some of the other guy's info that i have read. if any of you guy's have pic's of the hole system w/ a 700r4 trans please post them.

 

what about the T5 now? cant be that much different except getting it around the slave. Im interested in pics too

 

Your existing exhaust should fit with the y-pipe. You may have to get a 4-3" adapter to make it work. Here's a pic of it around the trans.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...g?d=1138778233

 

I thought there were pictures in the first page... and yes they do fit. it is kinda close to the slave and bracket but it does clear.

the top flange bolt for the collector is kinda hard to tighten since the slave is there and using a box end wrench is what I used to hold the one side.
I guess you could remove the slave and install it later (not really a problem the way I did it though) the rest of the t5 setup gives you more room than the auto has (had both)

 

If your going to try and make them fit a t5, don't dent the collector too much like I did. Now I have a unused pair of headers to throw out. I was looking forward to running true duals, but i'll never buy another hedman product again. Just the fact that I had to dent 2 tubes to get them bolted up is ridiculous. I should've used something else to dent the collector rather than a small hammer. I shifted the whole collector now I cant bolt up the slave cylinder or get the bellhousing to sit flush.

 

the hookers fit fine with no mods....


besides this is a hooker post

 

that's the first time I did that. I thought it was a hedman post.

 

Has anyone seen this before?

I attempted to switch from the Hedman shorties to the Hooker 2210's and the # 8 pipe contacts the A arm at a different location than expected from all of the reading I have done(Including this thread). I took some pics to try to show what is involved.

I'm at a loss on what to do. It looks like I either cut 1/4" out of the corner of the A arm mount which would probably cause it to fail. Or dent in the #8 pipe at the slip tube location which would not work very well either. The tube has to be removed to install the header so I'm kind of in a bind.

Has anyone run into this and do they have any ideas?

Most of the pics are self explanatory, but it was a little difficult getting good images. Sorry about the quality.

 

Here's some more including from the top and the slip joint. . .

Am I the only one that's seen this?

 

what heads and motor mounts are you using? original v8 car? was it ever in a crash? like 90% of thirdgens mine is close but it does clear. I belive the whole member can be moved some? but I can't say for sure anyway let us know what you find

 

I'm using the poly inserts and I have Dart heads but the engine builder never gave me a build sheet. I haven't heard back fron Dart yet, but Hooker basically washed their hands of it once I told them about the heads and inserts. The inserts are actually helping in that the headers would be farther down into the A-arm mount and the back of the K member crossover section. I would think they would try to save the sale, especially at $400, and I've never seen any disclaimers saying they only back it if everything is completely stock. So now I'm stuck with the shipping charges just to find that out.
Here's their response:
At least they replied. If I had the stock inserts, they wouldn't fit in there at all. So they basically just blew me off.

Both parts that interfere are within the K member, and I don't think it's ever been in an accident.

I did hear from someone with something similar, but not as bad. They said I could try loosening the motor mounts and try to shift it over but after Hookers lame response I'll be returning them and letting Summit know why.

 

so i finally got meself a set of these, and now that my Army training is done, I'm back to install them on my 383 in my T/A. anyone have a pic of how much they actually clearanced the A-arm mount in order to install the pass. side tubes? I dropped the motor in, being that i was by myself doing it, i had to pull ou the pass side to make it easier to maneuver everything around. i just need to see how much to claerance the mount; i've already got an LT1 starter and the driver's side seems to be in the right location, except that my dipstick tube will need to be removed. other than that, it seems to be going exactly as traxion posted. I'm running World Sportsman II's, Prothane inserts, and a spohn x-member for a th-350. I have a pro-kit for those who want to know how this turns out.

 

yeah im runnin a dropped car too...anda blower up front....lets see how bad this scrapes hahahah...