19doug90, did you put the jackstands ON the 2x4 or the other way around?
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I tried putting my headers in from the top just fooling around but no luck doing it that way lol.

 

I would have thought putting them in from the top would have been easier without heads installed.. go figure. I too will be trying to install these headers in the spring, so its good to know it can be done at home with jackstands.

I'd think the 2x4's were on the ground, then the jackstands on top.. makes the most sense to me.

Good luck TraviZ and let us know how it went.

 

I may end up getting these hooker headers as well. I however will install them as i install the new motor so getting them in shouldnt be a problem. I may try to install the shortblock first and then slip the headers into place then add the heads if its possible

 

Not possible Orr89RocZ, I tried without the heads, it gets all caught up with the block, just not the correct angles allowed.

 

good to hear, i guess i'll set them in first and then put the motor in. Else i'll have to jack up the car to high heights and go from underneath. i really dont like that idea with the car up so high, i dont have super tall jackstands and i just dont like having the car off the ground as it is paranoia i guess

 

I agree it sucks, I am going for it though! prolly next week.
I am gonna go ahead and bolt the heads and intake on tomorrow.

 

knowing you, you definitly want them

http://s185.photobucket.com/albums/x...nheaders-1.flv

i apologize for the lack of a shirt lol, it was freakin hot out
and dont mind the dent in the door

that right there is the joy of 10 minutes after open 2210's were installed, drove like that 30 min through toronto to get to the exhaust shop, soo much fun.

getting them into the engine bay really isnt that bad with the motor fully assembled. i have no air but a/c still in the car, passenger side goes in pretty easy. I found best way was to..

remove starter
put header in place with slip tube out but dont secure anything.
get someone to hold the header up there while you bolt the starter back up (them suckers are heavy on your back, even a ministarter)
now slide the slip tube back in from the top (no air) and then bolt the header on

drivers side i struggled more then most with.
had the motor jacked up as high as it would go, with the dist cap removed and all
dont know why i had such a hard time, couldnt find the right angle to get them in, finally figured out to bring the flange up beside my slave cylinder on the scattershield, and it kinda slid up and into place.

for the drivers side if it doesnt go in easily with the motor down (some people have no problem) its really no effort to pull the one bolt out and jack the motor up. Just be careful how you jack it up, lol im a dooface and minorly caved in my pan, oh well was an excuse to buy something better

 

I'm sorry to have to say it, but thats kinda scary if it ever crossed your mind to pile wood on the top of your jack stands supporting the car to get it higher. Dont be like the other guy on this board that almost had a car fall on him on grass.

Crib it from the bottom, the jack is whats meant to support the car.
your cribbing should just be two boards in the same direction, then opposite for each row. Obviously wider at the bottom then the width of the jack at the top. Make it too wide on the bottom and you cant get in with a creeper so just think about what youre doing.

you should probably do this even on a perfectly flat garage, you could do this on the side of a mountain and it would be safe to crawl under the car, if you do it properly.

why do i feel this incredible need to throw a disclaimer on the end of this saying if you die trying to do this its not my fault!!
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lol wow at the multipost, postwhoring by me

the paranoia is always there, lol it should be because you can die.

way i deal with it is once its up on stands i give it a solid little push on the fender from either side. Figure thats more force then i can put in with a wrench so if its gonna fall down, then is the time to find out.

hasnt happened yet

 

think i'm gonna lay the headers in place in teh engine bay, while i drop the motor in. That should be the easiest thing to do

i jsut dont know what to do about the exhaust. i need a y pipe made and dont wanna drive 45 min thru Pittsburgh with open headers. It would be awesome thru the tunnels, but cops for sure will snag me. 11:1 383 with a big cam isnt too quiet

i'll probly have them trailer it in

 

thats too bad, woulda been a lot of fun. Personally i said f- the ticket, can always try and beg and plead that youre on your way to the shop, and if they ticketed me, so be it

 

lol i cant afford a ticket and plus i still have the back half of the exhaust on the car that i'd have to either take out or tie up somehow while i drive it to the shop. we will see tho when the time comes

 

i got lucky but i wouldnt hesitate to do it again.

lol yup ended up buying a sawzall just for that purpose. cut it right before the over axel piece, 2 nice clean pieces to bring to them

 

thats always an option. I may beable to drop the rear down alot and slip it out. Probly not tho. I cant wait to get this project going. collecting pieces and pricing out things as of now.

 

what give the car that "growl" sound with the dynomax muffler? when you rev it high in the video? I was thinking it could be the aluminum heads, the particular exhaust, the long tubes or that its fuel injection vs me used to hearing carbs...or a combo of all 4? But it doesnt sound like most small blocks that sound like they just have the mufflers hacked off even when they do have nice exhausts. Any theories anyone?

 

Were you talking to me, cause I have one bullet muffler on my car, I still have to put the other one on, but it has that deep sound, but I'm using cast iron heads along with the longtubes. The long tubes definitelly add a slightly deeper tone to the exhaust note. But let me know if it was me you were really talking about.

 

I was referring to the OP but is there a video of yours somewhere? PM it to me

 

Well my video is on my myspace, it's on the main page. Notice in my signature

 

ANyone ever put this headers on with a spohn k member?

 

I have my headers slipped in!
jacked the car up like 19" or so, had 3 wheels off the ground lol. put it on jackstands at their highest point, and the headers slipped right in from the bottom, could'nt have taken more then 30 minutes. I think the Spohn k member contributed to the fact it was so easy too..

 

Sweet, if you ever take some pictures of it, you should put them up, so we can see it. I would get one of those one day, but not for my car, they only made 25 of them with these options it has, but my next f-body, I would do that, they look sweet and save some weight.

 

I have the mufflex 3 inch y pipe on my 85. coming off of hooker long tubes. The y pipe merges in to mufflex 4 inch all the way out with a flowmaster. i opted to tack weld the y pipe after i had it in place and then removed it and welded it further. It looks cleaner than clamps

 

good deal i would love to see pics of that setup. I want a K member so bad but will hold off on that for now, even tho this is the time to swap it out since i'm doing a motor anyway

 

what ports is on a 86 camaro 305?

 

they should be square ports still. IF your gonna use a TPI intake still or a carb intake or if its for a street car, 1 5/8" primary tubes are better, they boost the torque which is best for a street car, because that's are area under the curve of the power band

 

mine is already carbed from the last guy that owned it and is the engines from 81 the same ports?

 

hook up some pics dude.. thats an awesome setup!!!

 

Does anyone have a pic of an LT1 starter installed on the engine with the header in place? I am using a starter for 305 and I have to completely take the header off the head in order to get the starter out. Major PITA!! IM just wondering if the LT1 starter will work for me. I am running new ES mounts if it matters or not. Maybe apic will better illustrate it for me. I am running a T56 if that matters too.

 

I love the sinister laugh, this should be a commercial for Hooker headers! lol

 

Just finished my install... FINALLY got this to work

I dropped a motor in while installing these hooker longtubes. I first tried to use my stock old motor mounts and I was unable to drop the motor in with both headers in place in the engine bay and tranny in place. I couldnt get the motor to slide back and angle enough to get the mounts lined up with both headers in place. It either hit the trans with the flexplate or the drivers side header was hitting the motor and wouldnt allow me to drop it down.
I ended up taking drivers side out and got the motor in with trans in place. passenger side header hit on the A-arm mount and alittle on the k member. I tried to slip the drivers side header in from underneath and it would have worked fine if it wasnt for my road race oil pan with big kickouts in the pan. stock style pan would have worked without jacking motor i believe

SOO i took the motor out and installed new poly engine mounts from energy suspension.

got a trans jack to support the trans and moved the trans back 5-6 inches. This time i was able to angle the motor in to allow the motor bracket mounts to line up with the bushings with both headers in place.

I put the motor in from the side of the car since the hoist was not long enough to go in from the front.

Headers fit great tho..doesnt hit on anything it seems so far. I'll have to get some better looks but so far it looks good. Too bad my new jet hot coating is all scratched/nicked up now from the other install attempts Passenger side doesnt appear to hit the a-arm anymore nor the k-member.

Poly engine mounts appear to lift motor 1/2 inch or so



i'll get you a pic as soon as i can...possibly monday as tomorrow i'm busy

But the LT1 starter is indeed smaller you can almost slip the passenger side header in without removing the starter. I havent tried it but it looks like it may be possible. there is a good deal of room in there.

even if you had to remove the starter to install the header you should still beable to easily install the starter with header in place. I'll get back to you on this when i get a better chance to look at it.

 

was that a 305 or a 350 in the iroc TRAXION?

 

Traxion's car was a 350 IROC.

 

I finally have my true duals finished on my formula, I used Heddman S-bends, going into a a h-pipe, then 35" back, the 2.5" bullet mufflers, then some dumps, right before the sway bar, check it out.

Then I painted the rear axle, right now I'm still working on installing the rear Spohn Lower control arm relocators, then the Lakewood control arms. I'll put ina Lakewood panhard bar later.

The cars making so much torque right now, with the car up on the jackstands; while I am idling, with the brakes all the way to the floor, the rear tires are still spinning. I have to turn the service/parking brake on, then it barely stops them from spinning.

my site: www.cardomain.com/ride/471099

Check it out, I'll take a video of the sound of the exhaust soon too.

 

I got some requests for pics of mine since the links are old and not working anymore from my original posts on here... So here they are:

Some of these are older pics... But you get the idea on the headers and whatnot... It's a 383 with the 2210s and a custom Y-pipe (custom T56 crossmember) going into the Mufflex 4" cat back. The car also has the S&W SFCs and TA on it.

I have since swapped the T56 out of the car and will be going with an auto trans now since the car is more of a strip car... And I have a BMR K-member and tubular front LCAs with Spohn coil overs in the car... But this is how it was set up.

 

More...

 

Looks good, I finally talked to a tech guy named Darrel Cook from Hooker, and he hooked me up with another set of headers, so the 5th set! I told him about what happened with mine, and sent him a copy of the december issue of december 2003, and then he sent me another set, its almost all done under the hood, I'll add some more pics to my site shortly. Then I have to reinstall the rest of the exhaust, and then get to the rear suspension.

 

Hey, I've been supplied with a new set of headers from hooker, to replace the shitty rusty ones from last year. So they're on the car now, and all I have left to do is put the oil pressure sensor in and hook up the exhaust again, and a few the CAI, then get to the rear suspension again.

So my question is, for the oil pressure sender, I took it out and reinstalled it last time with no problems, and took it out again this time, right before I put these nice headers in. The problem is, the sender doesn't want to thread in, so I'm going to use a thread tap and chase setup to clean the threads of the sender and the block. Are they're any other things you other guys have done? Have any others had this problem also?

 

Has anyone used Heated 02 sensors? OR converted there car to run them? I haven't driven my car but once around the block. SO I was wondering if I might need to convert to a wideband, heated 02 sensor. SO if anyone has converted theres, give me a call and let me know, I'd appreciate it.

Has anyone had any trouble with theres yet? I mean if you go to my site, I have the 02 sensor mounted close to the header collector in my hedman s-tubes, so I don't think they should be a problem, but let me know what everyone thinks, thanks guys. Keith

 

Anyone have pictures of these with the spohn k memeber?

 

hey how did you wire up the 3 wire o2 heated sensor when its meant to be wired to a single wire?

 

You need to wire the positive side of the heater circuit of the HO2 sensor to an ignition source (as in, hot when ignition in run) and then ground the other wire of the heater circuit. The other wire is the sense wire that feeds the ECM with O2 sensor voltage and gets wired into the stock O2 sensor wire.

With a HO2 sensor, you are not going to have the problems of the O2 not cycling enough to keep the ECM in closed loop and thus it will run better and get better mileage, given proper state of tune of the engine and calibration in the PROM. This is normally going to be an issue when idling and will extend open loop operation on cold starts. Like most people, I noted lack of closed loop operation without a heated O2 sensor on my car after the long tube header install. The O2 being that far down the exhaust stream just doesn't stay hot enough to operate properly at idle.

My car currently uses the emulated narrow band O2 sensor output of an LC1 Wide Band O2 sensor to run the ECM and then also outputs wide band data into the ECM for logging purposes using the patches found in the DIY PROM Tuning forum.

 

Ok, which wire is hot though, mine are two whites and a black

 

Do you have to run S-bends with the 2210's or can I run straight pipe of the collectors and it will clear? Thanks

 

ok, I am in the process of building a dual exhaust to mate up with my 2210's .

hedman extentions (s-bends)

a summit x pipe

two flowmasters and dumps

after doing alot of seaching on here it looks like everyone running duals are using hedmans extentions and have hedman headers! No one responded to my question (see above) so I just order the extentions anyways. well, Im in this process of mocking up the exhaust and from what I can tell the hedman headers must sit up alot higher, so the extentions put them in a good postion to clear the trans cross member but with the hooker headers they hang down lower so the extentions seem to be low. It looks like it would not take much of a bend to clear the tran cross member..

your thoughts guys, how did you guys route your exhaust under the tranmission crossmember?

 

If your not that worried about low spots all the time, I ran my hedman s-bends down a little, towards the trans pan, and ran my h-pipe right under the trans, there isn't much room for an x-pipe without it being right in the way, like entirely in the way, so I just ran a h-pipe, the gains aren't worth the extra money, 20$ vs. $80, hm? Any questions?

I barely touch the ground with my h-pipe, only when I back out of my driveway, if you don't plan on going low a lot, then don't worry about it. If you want a lot of ground clearance, don't run a x or h pipe at all, your exhaust will be just slightly louder, and you'll lost maybe 10hp or lb/ft, basically just a slightly noticable amount.

 

thanks for the reply, Im trying to build my exhaust at home. I really want to stay away for a exhaust shop because they only crush bend around here. I wasnt sure if there was a better way to route the exhaust with 2210 being they hang down lower!

Thanks

 

I'm afraid of the ground clearance..with the 2210's.

Can anybody get me a measurement from the oil pan rail to the bottom of the lowest tubes, or from the centerline of the exhaust ports (bolts are on the centerline) to the bottom of the lowest tubes?

I got some info on the Ed Quay 1-7/8" headers. Cost $650 fully welded, bare metal.
-centerline of the exhaust ports to the bottom of the lowest tubes = 16-1/8"
-bottom of K-member to the bottom of the lowest tubes = 1/2"
-bottom of frame rail to the bottom of the lowest tubes = 1-5/8"
-centerline of the crank to the inside edge of tubes (passenger side) = 7"
-centerline of the crank to the inside edge of tubes (drivers side) = 7-5/8"

 

I would be interested in seeing the 1 7/8 headers on a car. Is that what they normally cost or did you get a deal on them?

 

Check out:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...y-1-7-a-2.html

I haven't actually bought them yet..that's the normal price.

 

You can actually install the LT1 or mini starter from the top. You don't have to do them at the same time. That's why the #8 header tube can be removed so you can have easy access. I can change my starter in 5 min.

 

Why do u want 1 7/8"? What motor are you gonna build exactly? The ground clearance with 2210's is great, they never touch anything, close to the brake line on the front passenger side, I just put some flameproof shielding on it. I don't even scrub/bump my h pipe anymore, I mean that would rarely happen. I've driven my car a lot lately in this 32-50*f or weather, theres no salt on the roads, and I wanted to drive it; with this cam & Ed Wright tune, my cars streetable as hell, gets decent mileage, and I have my propane heater lol.

As far as ground clearance, this isn't your beater or economy shitbox, its our pride, joy, and for some, our passion. U should already drive around pot holes, go slow over big bumps, etc...

Oh yeah, I was in aurora il, and I wasted a brand new 2010 SS camaro, that was great. I blew him away from the start, then like a bitch, he just turned off into a sub devision, like wtf man? What a bitch, lol.