Lets start off the new year right with the answers to these questions that get asked 50 times a week. First of all, do a search on this forum. There are literally a ton of posts that will tell you the answer to your question if you just do a search for "exhaust" or "headers" or similar. I'm going to make this a sticky post, but I wont lock it, for now. Any replies will be considered for addition to this thread, and then deleted.

Q: Who makes headers for thirdgen f-bodies?

A: SLP, Hooker, Dynomax, Hedman, and Edelbrock are the most popular, and they all have 50-state smog legal headers. There are other companies out there too who make long tube headers, Hooker probably being the most popular. Which one is the best? Thats a matter of opinion. SLP is the only company that makes smog-legal 1 3/4" headers as well as 1 5/8". (Edit: SLP no longer makes headers for thirdgens. You will need to find a used set, or buy the 1 3/4" setup from member Dyno Don.) The others are all 1 5/8". If you plan on making more than 300 HP to the rear wheels, the 1 3/4" are what you want. You can do a search to find out other's opinions, as this is a much-discussed and heated debate. Single and dual-cat headers are for the most part identical, its just the y-pipe that is different. And yes, there is no difference between 305 and 350 headers, they all bolt up to any small block Chevrolet heads on any size engine. You do have to watch out for Carb vs TBI vs TPI headers, however. Carb and TBI headers have THERMAC and/or Carb-heating devices that wont be there on TPI headers. However, the manufacturers in their infinite wisdom usually make the Carb/TBI headers and y-pipes smaller, so you want the TPI versions anyway. This will require some customization on your part to get your stock stuff to fit. Do a search and you'll find out more.

Q: Who makes cat-back exhausts for thirdgen f-bodies?

A: The same companies above, as well as Flowmaster, Magnaflow, Borla, etc. Again, there are other companies too, but these are the most popular. Which one is the best? Well thats up to you to decide. Just about any 3" mandrel-bent stainless steel exhaust will benefit your car and last for a long time. Listen to your friend's cars with different exhausts on them and choose the one you think sounds the best.

Q: Who makes catalytic converters for thirdgen f-bodies?

A: CarSound (edit: now called Magnaflow), Catco, Random Technology, and others. I recommend Magnaflow because they are good quality as well as a great price. But they're all good converters.

Q: Should I gut my catalytic converter or replace it with a straight pipe?

A: If you still have a stock converter on there, replace it immediately with one from the above companies. A catalytic converter is a federal emissions device and tampering or removing it on a street vehicle is a federal offense punishable by a fine and/or jail time. Today's cats are more efficient and cleaner burning than ever before, and you will lose anywhere from zero to five horsepower by having one. Thats nothing you will notice or feel. Do yourself and the environment a favor by keeping your cat. Not to mention you give our performance car hobby a bad name by removing your emissions devices.

 

How about a sound clip post in all this too? Mine is in the sig, Hooker cat-back.

 

To avoid emissions troubles and or warm up hampering when using TPI headers on carb/TBI engines, Hooker offers simple kits for the THERMAC device that include a stove, flex tube and clamps. PN#10930 is a 1-1/2" system and PN#10936 is a 1-3/4" system. It is possible to rig up the same sort of system yourself if you are creative enough.

 

There's a sound clip section on this website, send your file in to be added.

 

So your saying I should get tpi headers for my carb engine??? What is this "THERMAC" thing your talking about. Is it the larger hose that connects to the breather so your carb wont freeze up? I have an open element filter so I dont use that anyhow. I do want a set of headers for my car,,,I dont have to worry bout emissions stuff. Any sujestions on if I should get tpi headers, carb headers, long or short headers. I also need to get a y-pipe too??

 

I have a smalblock and I put the Hooker Super Comp headers on. They are 1 7/8 headers and they fit and look awesome. The were the only header that would fit with my kicked out oil pan. Hooker and Hedman are the ONLY companies that make any thing bigger than you standard 1 5/8 headers. You will have to Fab up a Y pipe with any long tube header

 

SLP makes 1 3/4 shorty headers. Unless you were only referring to long tubes.

 

The main thing I am looking for in headers (besides a great y-pipe) is removable AIR tubes. I want to be able to remove them for looks once I start getting my car into shows and also so I can use a pyrometer in the future with an MPFI setup to tune individual injectors. Now I know this is probably only just a dream and that I will have to fab something up in the future, but if ANYONE made headers like that I would seriously consider buying them.

 

Kevin, I don't think his question is totally out of line with the thread because he lives in NJ. This is because of the simple fact that Flowtec makes the only smog legal (49 state) headers that do not have AIR tubes... and yes, they are 1 and 1/2" primary. This is something I think is kinda overlooked on this board. Granted, that is pretty small for primaries, but I think it would be worth it to someone who wants better, smog-legal exhaust without having all the air tubes, diverter valve, or smog pump clogging up the engine bay. Esp. on a stock or near stock 305.

 

New Jersey's smog checks are just as tough as California's. There's no way you're passing smog without AIR tubes and all that hooked up, no matter what the manufacturer says about being 49-state legal. There's no such thing anymore.

 

I think the Hooker 2210 Supercomp long tubes are 1 3/4" and the Hedman longtubes are 1 5/8"

 

Yes, jersey smog checks are very strict.. but i know that everyone that took off there air tubes off there manifolds or didnt have tubes on there headers all passed emissions.. not only did they not have AIR tubes, but some have even taken out the actual AIR pump and they still have passed. The AIR tubes dont really effect the emmisions that much as removing the cat would. AIR tubes are really only for visiual inspection, and most people that work there are dumb asses anyway so they dont know what the heck their looking for. Im sure if you got another jersey owner in here, they would say the same. I still need to watch inspection, but im not worried about my AIR tubes when i get my headers. The engine will be a lot better looking with out all that clutter there too.

 

fyi.
my 93 Chevy pickup had SLP stainless headers / y-pipe on it.
they were AIR headers, but the truck wasn't. GM has a stainless plug that fits in that single hole on the trucks, and it has passed many smog visuals here in Delaware.
If anything, I would think having the plug would throw up a flag!
Chris400

 

not correct, i have no air pump in my car, passed with flying colors on my 89 IROCs emissions. i failed for a busted 3rd brake light

 

NJIT, thanks.. that gives me more confidence when i rip all that crap off this summer... ill have my headers, heads, cam and cat back put in before i go for inspection.. am i asking for it or what!?!?!? my luck ill fail for gas cap or something..

 

no prob...
dont take it as a guarantee, but they never said a word. the only thing the guy asked for was for me to shut the hood. it doesnt like to shut properly.

 

cool! alright man thanks again

 

Just because you went to an easy guy, doesnt mean everyone will. As always, your mileage will vary. And yes, it is correct that New Jersey's smog tests are just as tough as California's.

 

i should add that plans are in the works to scrap the NJ dynometer emissions test (IM240)

for whatever reason, its not "working" like it was expected

i have heard this from several credible local sources, saw it in the newspaper

and local shops who spent big bucks on dynos are pissed to hell about it

i'm not sure if they are going back to the idle only/tailpipe test or what the alternative will be

if anybody knows anything more, please let us know

 

My 83 z28 passed in New Jersey with a disconnected cat (essentialy a straight pipe) with out a problem.

 

I'm gonna chime in and say that I think the Hooker 2055 headers are the best out there period! I know I'm gonna get a lot of crap for saying that because it seems that everyone believes the SLP's are the best. It seems to me the only advantage the SLP's have are they are stainless steel, but that doesnt matter if you get the headers coated. The Hookers have 1 5/8 inch primaries which are just fine for anything making less than the 450 hp range. The hookers also have a 3 inch collector which does neck down to a tiny 1.9 inches at the ball flange, but that problem can easily be fixed by opening that up to the ID of the y pipe. The SLP's only have a 2 1/2 inch collector that necks down inside. I have heard many horror stories about the SLP's fitment and a lot of work needs to be done for them to fit right, whereas the hookers fit nicely with no modifications. Now comes the sweetness of the 2055's; the awesome y pipe! The hooker y pipe is by far the best y pipe available for the third gen f body, it is a work of art! It has nice 2 1/2 inch mandrel bent pipes that come together in an awesome 3 inch collector all the way to where the cat mates to the y pipe compared to the SLP y pipe that only has 2 1/4 piping.. The hooker y pipe doesnt stick out in the wheel well like the SLP y pipe does either. Now another strength of the hookers are they are wayyyyyyyyy cheaper than the inferior SLP's. I have done extensive research on all the brands of headers and have found that the Hooker 2055 headers are by far the best headers available!

 

thermac is the aluminum hose that hooks up to the stock air cleaner right? if so most people prolly won't need it.
all it does is use ambiant* (spelling) manifold heat and a the hose to send warm air to carb/tbi

 

???? question is still relevant

 

Yes you are correct, but your question doesnt belong in this thread.

 

i asked in case anyone with tbi wanting to use tpi headers as mentioned in topic above needed to know. i'm not really conserned for me persay but it was to get a frequently asked question out of the way. thanx.

 

What about Flowtech headers?

 

flowtechs are good for a stock 305, but if you want my real opinion, there a waste of time. Just save up some more and get hedmans non air tube headers. they are 109 plus another 100 for the y pipe. im not sure, but people have had to weld a bung for the o2 sensor on the y pipe, but in the pics that hedman has, its there, right below the collector.

 

I also like the hedman headers. The y-pipe however seams very restrictive. The spot where they neck down to the 2.5 inch really annoys me. I wish hedman would have made this in a 3 inch collector. I am gonna try and cut it there and run two dynomax mandrel bent pipes around that corner and replace that 2.5 inch pipe with a dynomax 2 into 1 3in. collector.

It seams like a waste to neck the y-pipe down to 2.5 inches to open it up to 3 inches the rest of the way.

 

25THRSS, commented on the hooker headers anyone else have any input or experience with them? (asking because I was considering them)

 

I think that by far, short of putting Hooker LTs or Hooker 2460s and duals on your car, Hooker 2055s are probably the best headers out there. I know that they aren't stainless (and that's what everyone likes about the SLPs so much), but get 'em Jet Hot coated and they will last much MUCH longer than any painted or nickle plated headers out there. The Y-pipe is a work of art. It makes the stock y-pipe look like a t-pipe!

Later,
Harry

 

Thanx for the info I think I'll get a set later, besides with the money I save on them VS SLP I could probably get them JET coated, and the whole Y pipe thing sounds like the best bang for the buck.

 

..trying to pass inspection at the dmv would be difficult with any old car...let alone one with exhaust mods...my 84 trans am can pass nj state inspection at the dmv....while my 86 pickup hasnt been able to pass at the dmv in 8 years...so you take the car that cannot pass at the dmv to a private gas station and pay the premium so it will pass....i can get any car to pass...

 

Can I ask why this post is a sticky? If you want people stop asking the same exhaust questions, why don't we just lock up this forum and archive it? There's always going to be advances in the auto (exhaust) industry and maybe some of the answers to these newbie questions may change as time goes on. I'm just curious that's all.

 

To add to the idea of this thread about cutting down repeat posts on questions that have been asked countless times, here is a link to a header coating test that car craft did in august 2002.

Hopefully this will answer the normal questions about header coatings like: Is it really worth it? Does it really work? Etc, Etc.

Read this article and judge for yourself. I myself read the article and realized it was definately worth it. It's the reason I just installed "coated" hooker 2055's that I bought from jet-hot on my car.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/80038/

 

What about the MAC products for our cars. They look like they have a good quality to them. Anyone have experience with them?? Seem a little pricy though..

http://www.macperformance.com/store/...ategory_ID=566

 

I have the borla cat back with the adjustable plates. It sounds great and my friend has the flowmaster.. He had his first and after i got mine on he wished he had mine.. I agree i like Borla but it is opion on each one

 

any headers that are made for a small block chevy. I think the only difference is that the TBI/Carb headers have a heat stove thing for the intake.

 

My friend, did you read my post at the top of this thread??

Here it is again for you. Please read the last line specifically.

 

.

 

Lt's promote scavanging better then shorties, so LT's are always better... just the problem comes when you want ground clearance. Just get them tucked up in there and you shouldnt have a problem, but chances are you are gunna scrape. Times like that i just wana get a monte carlo.

 

Hey guys, We can remove the AIR injection bungs prior to ceramic coating on any set of headers we sell. We can do just about any o2 or AIR modification you need. We have great deals on the Hooker 2055's and 2210's We also carry all the Hedman stuff for the 3rd gens.
American Coating Specialties

 

Thanks to 25THRSS! I have finally completed the installation of my Hooker 2055's and can honestly say they made a major improvement. I spent some money though, I ordered them through Summit then cut the air tubes off, welded them closed ground/sanded smooth and shipped to Jet Hot. They not only look awesome but have really cleaned up the engine compartment (along with Moroso Blue Max wires and Made for You looms) and increased performance (butt dyno). The sound tone/level has increased but is still mello during normal driving, it SCREAMS at WOT. The only problem I had during the install was the passenger side header hit the corner of the Transmission bellhousing, easily fixed with a $15.00 grinder from Harbor Freight. Awesome Y-pipe, close to perfect fit, mild yet aggressive sound! Definately reccomend the Hooker 2055's!

 

The way you guys are talking about the 2055 Hookers, they seem to be the gods of all headers!
I was looking them up and they say they are for 86-90 F-Bodys, I have an 85 how would they not fit on mine? are there very simple mods to get them to work?

Help me out here im new at this stuff...

 

i was also curious why they wouldn't fit on a 91 or 92, and here's my only question:

are the 2460 and the 2055 EXTREMELY DIFFERENT?

that's a $200 increase for the 2055 and i havn't seen anyone mention what the difference are between the 2, is it that the 2055 comes with the y-pipe, or are they bigger, or what?

i was gonna go with the hooker cat back system for $280 also.

thanks.

 

2055 is the emissions legal version with AIR tubes, while the 2460 is not.

 

I've been doing some reading on the Hooker 2055s and Summit says nothing about Air tubes. I would like to remain emissions legal on my 91 RS LO3...also these headers say for 86 to 90. Arn't all the exhausts basically the same...what would make them not fit.
Also I can't find anythign on the Y-pipe described...Does anyone know the part number.

 

They are emmisions legal. What makes them 86-90 is the way the y pipe meets the cat. All you need is a cat and catback from an 86-90 car and everything will mate up perfectly. The y pipe comes with the 2055's and is part of the system. That is the difference between 2055 and the 2460. the 2460 has a little bit different collector and no y pipe. IMO, the y pipe is the main reason to get the 2055's.

 

i believe i will benefit better with the hooker cat back system for $280 + s/h ranther than the $550 ceramic coated hooker headers + s/h

that's quite a different dollar / gain ratio there, am i mistaken on this, or will the stock manifold kill a 305, or actually a 350?

that in spending $2500 for a new engine, will the $-550 deem it overlly restricted?

 

What cat are you guys using with the hooker 2055s. I was thinking a Catco cat with 3in inlet and outlet.
Either of these from Summit ...
CTO-6907
CTO-6007
Will they mate up right to the hooker Y-pipe.

I was gonna get a custom I-pipe made to go with my Flowmaster 80 series muffler so I'm not really worried about EXACT fit or a certain length between cat and muffler.

Also what power gains could I expect with these headers and a full exhaust.

 

The headers will make a far greater difference than any catback will. I would expect a 25-40 hp gain with full exhaust depending on your setup.