stalling 1 3/4" SLP headers NEED HELP FAST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 700
Likes: 0
From: Pineville, NC US
Car: An '87 Italian Retard Out Cruisin'
Engine: LS1 install in progress
Transmission: 4L60e
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt
stalling 1 3/4" SLP headers NEED HELP FAST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Im installing 1 3/4 slp headers in my 87Roc. Got the passenger side on already. Im on the drivers side now and stuck. I can get the headers in partly. The brake lines are all in the way and the steering shaft thing is in the way too, I can get it almost all the way in and that is where it gets hung up in the brake lines and steering shaft. I still need to get it down about 2-3 inches and over too the right a few inches for it to fit but cant do it. What should I do????????????
I know some might say I need new motor mounts. How would i do those? I dont have an engine lift or anything could I do it without one???? Also I dont want to dent my headers because they are ceramic coated. Am I screwed???????
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1987 Iroc 350
GTS headlight/tail light covers
Camaro SS Wheels w/Sumitomo HTR ZII 275 rear, 255's in front
K&N filters
Adjustable Borla cat back
Large tube runners
ported plenum
Holley afpr
SLP 1 3/4" headders (not installed yet)
FUTURE GOAL:
To go really F'in fast!!!
Some pics of it at
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Album...949&Auth=false
I know some might say I need new motor mounts. How would i do those? I dont have an engine lift or anything could I do it without one???? Also I dont want to dent my headers because they are ceramic coated. Am I screwed???????
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1987 Iroc 350
GTS headlight/tail light covers
Camaro SS Wheels w/Sumitomo HTR ZII 275 rear, 255's in front
K&N filters
Adjustable Borla cat back
Large tube runners
ported plenum
Holley afpr
SLP 1 3/4" headders (not installed yet)
FUTURE GOAL:
To go really F'in fast!!!
Some pics of it at
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Album...949&Auth=false
I had to remove the valve cover to get mine in. It's a pain, I know... but it gives you about 1/2" to spare. You could also try pushing them up from the bottom but I think the steering shaft was still in the way.
haha, i see youve had as much trouble as i had doing this mod. I used edlebrock instead so this might not work. I could not force them in by hand or bring them in from the bottom so I simply used a rubber mallot. I got them prety much in place and gave it a little tap and it went right in.
If that does not work the proper way is to just remove the steering shaft which is probably a pain.
If that does not work the proper way is to just remove the steering shaft which is probably a pain.
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 700
Likes: 0
From: Pineville, NC US
Car: An '87 Italian Retard Out Cruisin'
Engine: LS1 install in progress
Transmission: 4L60e
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by dtpmike:
haha, i see youve had as much trouble as i had doing this mod..</font>
haha, i see youve had as much trouble as i had doing this mod..</font>
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">
If that does not work the proper way is to just remove the steering shaft which is probably a pain.</font>
If that does not work the proper way is to just remove the steering shaft which is probably a pain.</font>
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 1,298
Likes: 0
From: Salem, NH
Car: 1999 Chevy Cavalier
Engine: 2.2
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: it's part of the transmission
remove the plastic dirt shield from the steering gear-box, there is an 11mm bolt,undo the clamp and use a long flathead screwdriver to pry it off the spline shaft. use some wd-40 and get the middle under the cover,because it telescopes. the end at the firewall has a bolt going through it,remove it,simple enough! it seems impossible at first,but like most everything else,it's easy once you do it once. check the rag joint and u-joint while you have it off.
you might be able to disconnect only the u-joint end,if you can get the old rusty telescope squareshaft to fully collapse (lots of wd-40). match the splines exactly as they were before to get them back together.
you might be able to disconnect only the u-joint end,if you can get the old rusty telescope squareshaft to fully collapse (lots of wd-40). match the splines exactly as they were before to get them back together.
i had this problem with my buddies 88 iroc, we had to undo the steering shaft and then remove the valve cover and two rocker arms to get enough clearance but the little exhaust tube that is coming off the headers has to be bent over too, and dont forget the gasket. Isnt hotrodding fun??? hahah
I'm glad my knowledge will help finally. I just did the same the install. Undo the steering column (which really isn't that bad) and maybe the vavle cover and it should be able to be slide right in. The motor mount thing won't work - don't waste your time. Plus you have to pull the lower control arm to get at the mount bolts. You'll probably have to ding the header to re-attach the steering - this is where it gets fun. The column is oval shaped. I ding the header 6 different times before i got it deep enough and it still rubs a wee-bit. If you have the dual cat set-up, it gets even funner preparing the next section of pipes! Hope I could help.
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92 Z28 - 5.7 - Black/Grey Leather
Macewen White Faced Guages
SLP T-RAM, 24lb/h Injectors
Accell 52mm Throttle Body
SLP 1 3/4" Headers and Cat Back Sys.
SLP T-RAM Registry & Custom Decals Here!
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92 Z28 - 5.7 - Black/Grey Leather
Macewen White Faced Guages
SLP T-RAM, 24lb/h Injectors
Accell 52mm Throttle Body
SLP 1 3/4" Headers and Cat Back Sys.
SLP T-RAM Registry & Custom Decals Here!
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I had to move a couple brake lines to the outer side of the steering shaft, just unscrew them from the master cylinder and carefully massage them down and around the shaft. MAKE SURE YOU DON'T KINK THE LINE.
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1986 Trans Am
305 TPI
"If it's not one thing, it's another!"
http://www2.hanover.edu/hierlmeier
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1986 Trans Am
305 TPI
"If it's not one thing, it's another!"
http://www2.hanover.edu/hierlmeier
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