I'm 18 and I have done all the repairs and small mods to my car. I'm in the process of getting a shift kit right now (I won't do this one). This winter I'm going to purchase headers (I want to get a jump on bargain shopping now). I need to know which headers are the easiest to install with no bracket changes or any other mods. price is a big factor. Yes I have smog and a AC incase you are wondering.

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late model 91 rs
fully loaded t-tops, red leather
paint- gm red and yellow blend (light red)
custom painted 16" Camaro rims
305 tbi 14"x3" O.E, hypertech chip, accel super stock plug wires
Edelbrock 3" cat-back
MTX sub and amp, Bose all around
vic_v8@yahoo.com
street kills: a lot of "family" cars, pickups, New v-6 stang, totally killed '86 SC Camaro, 91 z 28 with 305

 

come on man do the shift kit yourself its fun!! i did mine myself and it was my first time ever in a tranny. it took about 5 hours but it was worth the money i saved plus now i know it was done right. Happy Drilling

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91 Z-28 Coupe
L-98, 700-r4
Borla cat back
Performance Resource chip
Centerline wheels
K&N, Gutted air boxes
Gutted cats
Best Pass = 13.710 @100
Best 60' = 1.842
on M/T Sportsman Pros

Race Car:
S/P 91 Camaro Z/28
454 LS7 crate motor
Crane Roler cam
Dart intake
1000cfm TRC Carb
Powerglide
9" Ford rear
Goodyear 14"-32"-15"
Weld prostars
All steal except for hood and rear deck
Best ET: 9.64 @ 145
3000# with driver

 

iv heard SLP makes some really good headers, which are also easy to install because of their seperate flanges or wutever, however i don't if u will have to mod the A\C bracket etc or anything.

www.slponline.com

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- David
88' GTA 350 MODS---> air foil, K&N, Shift Kit, 180* therm, TB bypass, Gutted CAT

 

i am also 18 i did headers back my self i went with edelbrock cause slp where out of my price range and in some causes edelbrocks perform better for 313.96 from summit u everything u need to complete the job the only things i did not put back on is ac support rod and the alternater support rod ..the easiest way for the pass side is to go fom the bottom i took off the starter and it went right in , for the driver side i took the sterring column off ... then the driver side slides right in hope this helps

 

You said money was a factor, that was my case and I went with the Edelbrock's. I didn't have to remove the starter or steering column. The driver's side was a piece of cake while on the passenger's side I had to remove to smog equipment. Took me and my brother about 6 hours to do.

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'86 IROC
T-TOPS, TINTED WINDOWS, BRAKE LIGHT BLACKOUTS
GM GOODWRENCH 350
EDELBROCK TES HEADERS
3" Hooker CatBack w/Aero Chamber muffler
EDELBROCK 600CFM CARB.
KN AIRFILTER
ACCEL HEI DISTRIBUTOR
160* Stat
3:73 Posi
Rebuilt 700R4
B&M Megashifter, 5" Autometer Tach w/shift lite

 

Two weeks ago I put in Edelbrock headers on my 305. The drivers side slid right in. Passenger side took 2.5 hours, including the crossover and y-pipe. I didn't have my valve covers on or any of the smog, I also took part of the AC out to give me more room, it was already decompressed, and I took out the oil dipstick.

Jason

 

I have SLP headers and love them they are a little more but I got them during the GP so they weren't that expensive. If I were you I would get the SLP's because they are stainless so you don't need to get them coated. I have heard bad things about edelbrock. If you don't want to spend the money I would go with the hooker headers. Mine were not that hard to install just took time.

 

I just installed TES headers in my 90 RS this past weekend. It was pretty easy, the hard part was removing the exhaust manifolds and all that other cramp.

Drivers side: remove bolt on steering shaft and teliscope it down and out of the way. Bend away brake lines. Header slides right in.

Passenger side: first move all your smog crap out of the way. I removed some of my AC stuff like that big silver can, the compressor (connected to belt, replaced with AC delete pulley part#10055890), and condensor (in front of radiator) It gave me alot more room to work with and i was planning on removing it anyways. Had to removed the valve cover (might also be a good time to get new valve cover gaskets), there was also a wire that went to the start and was conected by a bolt, remove it, it keep my header from going in. header should go right in with alittle force, but make sure that you dont break anything.

remember to remove all of you spark plugs before putting in your headers. You will also need alot of tools, sockets of different sizes, deep sockets, socket extensions, metric, english, all that good stuff and more including some help. I was lucky, my dad has an entire garage full of tools. you might also want to get some new universal spark plug wires with 90 degree bolts or the headers will probably burn right through them. Im putting some MSD Heli-Core 8mm wires with Made For You centerbolt wire looms on my car today and tomorrow im having the exhaust shop put on my aero chamber cat back.

just search this board, there are so many people that have already asked this question, it will help alot. Hope this helps. oh yeah, this is the first time me and my friend have ever worked on a car, anyone that can turn a wrench can do this, just be prepared to get dirty and bust a few knuckles, but that is the fun part. Be prepared to dedicate an entire weekend, it took us a 3 day weekend, put the first 2 days were dedicated to removing the AC, manifolds, and all the exhaust pipes.
IT WILL BE FUN