New Exhaust
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
From: Charleston, SC
Car: 87' Red TA w/ 92k miles
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
New Exhaust
I live in Florida and am not sure of what the legal nosie levels for a car must be. I'm tired of hearing these damn **** rockets though, and I want to put a new exuast on my stock 87' Trans Am. I'm not looking to put on new headers or changing the cat, but I have considered flowmasters, hooker, or maybe even glasspacks. I have heard that Glasspacks can rob hp. Any suggestions on a new exhaust would be appreciated. Also try to give a price range.
Thanks
Thanks
Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 484
Likes: 0
From: NW Ohio
Car: '91 RS
Engine: LO3, For now...
Transmission: 700R4
I have considered Flowmaster, and they are widely popular. They tend to have an aggressive tone, but most don't seem to think they're too obnoxious. If you're running a cat, I don't think it would be too loud unless the local sound police are pretty serious. Hooker has a reputation for being a bit quieter at idle and at part throttle cruise RPMs, but when you open it up, it gets loud. As for myself, I should be getting my Hooker catback Monday.
And there are other systems out there; Ravin, Dynomax, Magnaflow, etc.
I wouldn't recommend glasspacks because of several factors:
1) They don't stay consistent in tone, because the fiberglass matting eventually blows out, leaving you with basically an unpacked straight-through muffler.
2)This is my opinion - they sound best on the large cubic inch, high compression engines of the '60s. Our engines just don't move enough gases to make them sound good.
3) They're simply old technology. They are a dated design - that's why they're cheap.
Sorry for my rambling, hope this helps.
And there are other systems out there; Ravin, Dynomax, Magnaflow, etc.
I wouldn't recommend glasspacks because of several factors:
1) They don't stay consistent in tone, because the fiberglass matting eventually blows out, leaving you with basically an unpacked straight-through muffler.
2)This is my opinion - they sound best on the large cubic inch, high compression engines of the '60s. Our engines just don't move enough gases to make them sound good.
3) They're simply old technology. They are a dated design - that's why they're cheap.
Sorry for my rambling, hope this helps.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
From: Charleston, SC
Car: 87' Red TA w/ 92k miles
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
new exhaust
Helps immensely, you recomfirmed what I thought about Glass packs. Thanks. Any more info would still be appreciated.
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,164
Likes: 1
From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
to add to the Hooker, there is a sound clip in my sig. LIke noted, one near stock 350 it's rather quiet at idle, but screams at WOT.
Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 484
Likes: 0
From: NW Ohio
Car: '91 RS
Engine: LO3, For now...
Transmission: 700R4
I got mine from www.jegs.com
The cheapest way is to buy part #16822 which has a 4-bolt flange on the cat end of the I-pipe. If you don't need the flange for your application, (I think your car is too late to use the flange) you can cut it off and splice or adapt to the outlet on your cat. This part# runs about $207, and will save you about $60. Or you can find out your engine code (eighth character in your VIN) and order the part# that bolts right up.
The cheapest way is to buy part #16822 which has a 4-bolt flange on the cat end of the I-pipe. If you don't need the flange for your application, (I think your car is too late to use the flange) you can cut it off and splice or adapt to the outlet on your cat. This part# runs about $207, and will save you about $60. Or you can find out your engine code (eighth character in your VIN) and order the part# that bolts right up.
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