I know that many of you have been frustrated by leaking headers and stripped header bolts. I have had a hard time applying enough torque to the bolts with a box end wrench. The corners of the bolts tend to round off before I can get them really tight.

The solution I found is to use bolts with allen heads. I found some at the hardware store that are the same dimensions as regular header bolts (3/4" length) but are much easier to tighten well.

Your can use a variety of different tools to tighten, and when you need to, loosen them. It makes installing and removing my headers go a lot faster and a lot less aggravating plus more bolt torque means no leaks. I use a regular allen wrench (10mm I think). You could use a "T" handle allen wrench. I also use a shortend allen wrench for hard to reach bolts. I can even use the straight piece I cut off the allen wrench inside a 10mm socket so I can use a ratchet. I also have a socket with a 10mm allen wrench end. These all make the process a lot easier.

The fact that you get 5 solid surfaces in contact with the bolt means you can get a lot more torque on there without ever stripping the bolt head.

I also use a lock washer on each bolt and this has eliminated the need for lock tight. If you use new bolts just be sure to re-torque them after the first few heat cycles because bolts will stretch a little at first. But after that they are on so tight they never loosen up until you want to remove them, which is then a snap.

I just thought I would pass on this bit of advice and hopefully save everybody a lot of time and aggravation spent tightening those PITA header bolts.

What do you guys think?

-Lance

 

If it's that simple, I apparently wasted $40 on Stage-8 fasteners. I actually bought them thinking I could tighten them using the allen part of the bolts, but they're not big enough to hold any real torque. Oh, well...

 

I just use a skim coat of ultra copper silicone on my gaskets before putting them on. I've yet to have a problem blowing out a gasket since. The one time I didn't use the ultra copper (ultra red works just as well), the rear pass side port gasket blew out in less than 10 minutes. I've never been able to get the rear pass side bolt super tight. Headers shouldn't reqire gobs of bolt torque to keep them on/sealed anyways.

 

i also bought stage 8 bolts, guess were they are, in the spare parts bucket.

even my grandfather said why didnt u buy allen head bolts. to late now.

 

ive always used small hex headed bolts, since i cant always access the bolts with some header configurations...



and i use copper gaskets.... they dont burn out.


and BTW, YES you can overtighten the bolts, even with "regular" bolts....

 

I got the ARP 12-point stianless bolts, and they work beautifully. I haven't had any problems with them coming loose, and the best part is that they are a 3/8 head and not a 7/16. Since they are smaller, the wrench doesn't hit the tube, and I can get the box end of the wrenchon to get some better torque. But, yes, I have heard of your idea with the allen bolts. It was in a Chevy High Performance magazine a few months back. Good idea.

 

The best way I have found to do the rear passenger side bolts is from under the car, PREFERABLY while the transmission is out of the way. This is the only way I have found to actually get those bolts good and tight.