I have an old '67 SBC 350 block (driver's dip). I have a 14" B&M flexplate, so I used a $30 (Discount auto) '70 Z28 starter to spin the motor, but of course the passenger header hits this starter (same monster one used on big blocks). The interference is like 3/8" or slightly more, so now what starter to use to spin this 14" flexplate and clear the header?

Almost even worse is my engine sits nearly an inch high in the front. Here's the thread.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=198163

Nobody knows why this is. But it causes the Hedman y-pipe to wedge between the front oil pan (chrome, driver's dip) and the engine crossmember. I can use a ballpeen hammer to mash in the oil pan probably, but the y-pipe doesn't seem much use unless the engine is lower (seems impossible) because it hits the crossmember not allowing me to bolt up to the headers.

I can't get a custom y-pipe in my area. The stock manifolds/y-pipe cleared the oil pan barely by 1/8". Tempted to use them, but it's a 224/236 .465/.488 114 LSA cam, so I think that would run pretty bad.

 

i had the starter clearence problem on my 400. i used the 502 mini starter for staggered bolt pattern. if you have the inline another mini will help. as for it sitting hi - it would have to something in your motor mounts or maybe the tranny

 

Thanks for the reply. I think I'll have to drop some money on a mini starter (found a Powermaster on Summit for $114). Not sure what a 502 is. The Z28 starter is staggered, but I think my block accepts inline as well.

These starters obviously turn 153 or 168 teeth wheels. Seems odd to me, I thought the 14.13" flexplate would be a problem.

Too bad I can't use the $30 starter, it was lifetime replacement too.

As for motor sitting too high, I called GM and the motor mounts and brackets I have are stock and correct for the 92 RS Camaro. The tranny mount is also stock (motor sits fine in rear, only front is high). So I can only blame the car itself or the block. I thought all SBC's were the same as far as mounting...

 

a502 is a big block .if i remember right the mounts i i bought were a shallower design that a regular mount. ask some other people if you're talking to the same guy about the mounts you'll probably get another answer. it would have to be the mounts unless they are installed on the wrong set of holes. your crossmember is drilled for different mounts and motors.

 

I had the same problem with my Hedman headers and y-pipe. I used a mini starter with dual bolt pattern for large or small flex plate and put one of those aluminum heat shields on it with the remote starter solenoid kit so all I have is the positive cable to hook up.
As for the y-pipe problem, I used a couple of exhaust doughnuts that fit perfectly and gave me the clearance needed between the pipe, oil pan and cross member. If you want to try it I have the part number of the Fel-Pro doughnuts I used. I also put a 3-31/2" length bolts on the collectors for the addition of the doughnuts. It works great and no exhaust leaks whatsoever..
cc 82Z-28

 

I'd love to get shallower mounts but I don't know where, plus what would it give me, 1/4" drop maybe little more before the oil pan (stock) smacks the engine crossmember.

The mounts are in the stock SBC V8 locations, confirmed by the car's corrosion and also by my wife's 89 Firebird. It just seems this 92 RS has an unusually high engine crossmember, which would mean the drive angle would have been messed up from day #1, which is really hard for me to accept.

I also measured the height of the mounts (including motor brackets), they match my wife's 89 Firebird, and they match Moroso's solid motor mounts height.

 

I'd love the Fel-Pro doughnut #'s!!! Going to speed shop tomorrow to get my 3" cowl hood and I could order them. How many doughnuts per side? No collector gasket then right?

I did bring home a Powermaster 9000x mini starter. Of course it hits the header (why did I use a 14" flexplate??). I haven't exhausted all possibilities (inverting the starter) to see if I can make it fit.

Also on the driver's side, the brake lines are touching the header pipes big time. I guess I have to cut and re-couple these. Are others having this problem too?

 

Sorry about not getting back sooner, anyhow, the part number for those doughnuts I used are Fel-Pro #60854 it's for a Cadillac 300 eng. 1990-93 years. Also on the package is a line that says future number is 12-1093. You only get 1 to a package and if I remember right they were about $34 for the pair at the local Auto Zone store. One side is conical shaped and the other has a flat side with a lip on it to guide it into place. Put the flat side up to the collector of the header and drop the conical side into the exhaust collector.Tighten the bolts up slowly and evenly until you get the doughnut centered and then snug them up. After a few heat cyccles recheck the bolts. So far no leaks and as I said before just the right amount of clearance for the pipes and cross member but not low enough to create a problem with the ground. as for the brake lines, yes they are close, I was able to get enough play to move them enough to be ok so far.
Hope this helps you out..
cc 82Z-28

 

Thanks for the part #'s! I'll definately try that. I've heard RTV silicone even helps the seal, no harm in trying it. By the way, are you using stock rubber motor mounts?

I'm using ES Poly mounts and I think it could be why my engine sits .75-1" too high in the front. Others have claimed this to happen.

 

Yes, I'm still using the stock rubber motor mounts. Also if you use the doughnuts for your exhaust you shouldn't need to use and other material to seal it up, just make sure you tighten the bolts evenly. I put the bolts with lock washers and the nuts all on the collectors and left them hang to their longest point and I was able to slide the doughnuts on and line them up. Be sure to put both on before you draw one of them up tight otherwise you maight not get the other one slid into place..
As for the ES mounts, I can't help you there since I don't use them. I figured if I needed to I would make a torque strap using a turnbuckle arrangement and fasten the drivers side of the to frame rails after I get my new wonderbar in from TDS.
Good luck and let me know how everything works out for you..
cc 82Z-28

 

Well the doughnuts didn't work. Not only is there still oil pan/engine crossmember interference, but the driver's header flange is almost an 1" off. I've tried everything.

I'm concluding that my engine sits too high with the ES Poly mounts. This causes the frame interference. The oil pan is a '79 chrome driver's dip, non-camaro pan. So that probably explains the trouble there.

So today I'll change to stock rubber engine mounts, and then I'm afraid I have no choice but to beat the oil pan and y-pipe into submission. But I still plan on using the Fel-pro Cadillac doughnuts, as it should still help, and is a good idea.

I did manage to massage the brake lines out of the way on the driver's side, and I ground a 1/4 inch of aluminum off of my inline mini-starter so now it fits. Y-pipe is all that holds me back from enjoying my 350HP ride...