.

 

i would say the headers would help... buddy picked up .3 in the 1/4 and 2 mph w/ his hedman LTs...

as for the the exhaust... it would be better to have a crossover somewhere...

i had a buddy w/ an 97 SS run his pipes out of the side after his hooker LTS and dr. gas x pipe... when he ran it out he ended up using the NASCAR "boom tubes!!":hail:

 

The hedman lt's are great. I would use 2.5" pipe for that and the exhast will have to run down the tranny tunnel and then turn out not down the outside of the car.

P.S. I am the one who Chris spoke of in his post.

 

.

 

what i mean by a crossover is some type of either an "H" pipe or x pipe... doing so will give you better torque numbers depending on how far back the x or h is...

going true dual will cause you to have some ground clearance problems though... do a True Dual search and read up... you will see more stuff about the crossover and such... plus tons of pics...

 

lol....ya might what to get an alignment if you tires are at that angle...j/k......WE ALL KNOW BACK TO THE FUTURE RULES

 

Check the long tube header faq sticky at the top it has some decent pics of the crossover.

 

My setup is kind of like your pic, except there are aerochamber mufflers on each side. I wouldn't reccomend that setup though unless you are good at fabricating. I would reccomend the hedman longtubes into hedman x-tensions and some dynomax bullet mufflers (or moroso spiral flow, or some glasspacks). It is a much easier setup to install and can be done with basic tools and by beginners.

 

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It is still true dual exhaust because you have 2 pipes, but they never merge into 1 pipe then back a gain, they simply cross each other or are connected to each other. H and X pipes allow the exhaust to equalize on both sides since the pulses aren't evenly spread out (as in fire right bank, fire left, fire right, so on). An X pipe is better than an H, it scavenges better. On the street there will not be a noticable difference from a X pipe, H pipe, or no equalizing pipe at all. At the track however, that's a different story.

 

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I wouldn't really worry about it if it's just city driving. Sound would change a bit, but not really significantly. You'll have more clearance w/o a pipe.

 

You will regret putting sidepipes on your car. you will have like 2" or less of ground clearance .....all for a stock 305 that you drive through the city every day. A single 3" cat-back will cost you less, fit much better, and flow plenty for even a modded 305.

 

Hope the pics are attached,
Hooker shortie headers, 2.5 pipe, dynomax racing bullets and exits right before the rear tires. In my opinion it's way too loud but it gets everyones attention.

 

sorry,
go to http://members.cardomain.com/nozzghoull
for the pics

 

how bout someting like this except 2 1/2" instead of 3", and running them shorter and running pipes all the way out. just a suggestion. john

 

The problem is that there is no room to run exhaust down the driver's side of the car like in your picture.


I was thinking of doing something like this:

 

.

 

basically my idea but like the guy said about my pic, there is nowhere to put the pipes going out. any specific reason why you want sidepipes? i had a sidepipe setup that used a set of side exit mustang mufflers with the inlet and the exhaust on the same side. it worked great and had plenty of clearance. the only reason i got rid of it was that i used dynomax mufflers so it was really quiet and it was only 2" pipe with no crossover, it would have been easy to put one in but i didnt and did the exhaust seen in the above pic, much louder
and 3". my old system could be redone fairly easy and any good muffler shop should be able to do it. i dont have a pic but i will give a detailed description tomorrow of what was used( im tired)

 

that is my car and it is a thirdgen and i had room to run the exhaust down the drivers side fine

 

Ground clearance isnt greant and you can see the entire exhaust system from behind the car. I have the same setup as yours except no turndowns.

 

before you draw any more pics, you should get under a 3rdgen and look at the floorpan.

no matter where you plan to put your side exit, when the cars on the ground, you'll find its too low for normal street use...

if you're extra super careful, sure, you could get away with 1" of clearance......


anyhoo

you'll find that the long tubes exit inside the undercar "frame rails"

so theres 2 ways to get them to continue back. go out under the frame (low clearance) or squeeze them by the tranny crossmember (not much room.).....


theres a reason that theres a million ideas already posted on here for true duals...... why very few are actually made, and why thoes that do have them have them so low.




i honestly wonder if when they designed these cars they forgot to make room for a exhaust until it was too late... the exhaust design looks like a afterthought.

 

Agreed.

 

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You can modify the tranny crossmember for more clearance for the pipes, but it's quite a bit of fabrication. I could get you some pics if you're interested though...

 

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Here it is, the company has a website and makes them for thirdgens IIRC, but you can build it yourself for much less if you're good at fabrication. I'm not sure what hooker muffs you're talking about above, maybe I missed them???

 

wow.. never saw that before. Just the brace would be a great thing to buy.

 

Didn't notice that till you metioned it, but it looks like it ties into the SFC's. It'd be pretty easy to make, just some square tubing and channel and the arc welder...

 

yeah... let me... umm... just get some tubing and arc weld me one.... right..



hehehe just kidding man. That bracing looks great, and im sure you could fab up a dual system.. .that one looks pretty strait foward.. i just try to make a X or H pipe somewhere in there...

 

That is a G-body. (Monte, Malibu, GN, Regal, Cutlass).

 

i use to have dual exhaust on my car the set i had was run to pipes in the same spot the normal single pipe would go. it fit fine but the pipes were smaller. i have never seen anyone on this site that has dont it this way.
just an idea.

 

but G is next to F on the keyboard! they're that close man!




actually, im not positive if i can do it or not until i have both the T56 in the car and the longtubes in, but im going to try to use a combo of oval tubing and perhaps even fabbing a crossmember to make my car have ground clearance between the longtubes and the catback... my car will have a Y pipe and elec cutouts in the y pipe before it comes together.

 

Haha...

I have a T56 and just put my 383 in with Hooker LTs. I made a little reply in the sticky for the Hooker 2210s about how my install went. But basically they fit fine with a T56. No issues outside of the ones with any other trans setup. A Y-pipe is another story alltogether . The Spohn one I have is not going to work at all. I should be getting started on building my own crossmember this weekend that will make way for a Y-pipe that will run into my 4" catback. No cutouts planned for mine though... I don't think I will need them .

 

unless you actually move the subframes, there is no way to make that kind of x-member on an automatic car but...... you can make one for a manual. check out deadbird's x-member, it is on www.deadbird.org, now that is a fine piece of ingenuity :hail: :hail: p.s., makes me wish i had a manual even more

 

dumps are KOOL!!!! they make it sound like 10x more bassy

 

i have the true duals on my 305 (its not that stock though)

the 2 flowmaster 40 series each sit underneath my floor pan

and yes they exit on the sides

its loud as hell (i like it like that though)

and it scrapes EVERY little pebble no matter how careful you try to be

i dont mind it, but i took my mom for a ride in the car and she pleaded me to turn back home LOL

so it must be mounted together very stong....bottoms out everywhere i go

it was cheap though like $250 for the whole setup

 

cool... i can kinda tell the spohn one wont work.


the reason i need the cutouts is that im going to run the quietest catback that i can run.. and really, its going to be kinda restrictive for the motor...

i figure that way, i can keep them closed when girls are in the car, or when i want to talk to someone in the car.... (or when i pass a cop)

and when i want to be loud, i just open them.... want a lil lub? just crack them open a tad.....


anyhoo thats the plan...

 

While an auto. trans. doesn't allow the room for tucking the pipe as tight on the sides of it as a standard, modifying the x-member will allow for a bit of extra room to run pipes past it instead of running under it. I chopped up mine using a 4' piece of 2" x 1/8" flat stock. 2" is as high as you can raise the sides off the mount before it hits the bolts to the mount.
Auto x-members are also slightly different (mount doesn't botl direct to the x-member) so, to do what I did you would need the x-member from a standard if you wre to attempt it on an auto.
Here the post I made that shows a few extra pics of my x-member when I started on my exhaust..
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=133712

 

UNKNOWN_HOST...
I thought about that idea of running the duals out the passenger side too right before I came on here to find out if anyone else had done it. I really like that idea and with the shorty headers and an "X" just forward of where the cat used to be should work. The only thing I was worried about is the location of the mufflers. Even if it was the racing bullets you may have to stagger the mufflers. Do you know anyone that has done this and what kind of side tips did they use? Probably rectangle off a 4th gen or something.

 

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I checked their site and they only make them for G-bodies, but you could make your own based off that idea.

I wouldn't reccomend either of the mufflers. The first ones bolt to a 3 bolt collector flange and the second muffler only has a 2" core which is very restrictive. The 2nd ones are glasspacks which you can get from Summit 24" long 2.5" id for $20 each or dynomax's bullet muffler which goes for $30 each. The bullets are a bit loud so if you want quiet, they're not for you.

 

that end it.. im selling the taurus and getting a monte or a 2dr malibu...

 

Here is what I might go off of for mine. I think it needs a third mounting point to the subframe/floor of the car and some gussets to strengthen it at the joints however, but I don't know how well it faired for the owner/creator since I don't know who's car this is:

 

As you can see, T5 people , the T56 is substantially larger and is not as handy when it comes to running the exhaust up in the trans tunnel nicely like Deadbird did even with crossmember mods...

But it can be done.... I will be another of the success stories soon .

Here's another shot of that guy's setup:

 

thats EXACTLY what we did on my buddies 4th gen, minus the x pipe, we cut the y so it was 2 pipes and welded on 2 cherry bombs... LOUD as hell but its low.

 

very cool.. thanks for the pics.


im going to try for somthing very similar..... athough knowing me, its going to be pretty well overbuilt.... i tend to make stressed pieces a bit overkill...



i can see that my idea will work off that 2nd shot.... instead of a X pipe, it just has to go into a Y and cut upward into the stock style catback.


anymore pics? esp of ground clearance?

 

heres a pic of the underside.


notice the rear floor "humps".

also the headers are inside thoes "framerails" up front... so you have to get them out....


look at all this, then remember how close they are to the ground already....... see the prob?


anyhoo heres a pic you can draw on....

 

This was my setup last year, which i did'nt like because of a ground clearence issue but only at extreme bumps... but any how all 2-1/2" piping, hooker shorties 2055(jethot), into 2 dynomax cats, then into 2 flowmaster 40's and out into Borla Intercooled slash tips..... My new system is similar but with Summitracing 30" chamerberd mufflers so more ground clearence but here's a few sample pics..

 

another pic that shows a lil more... i wish i had a good digi cam to show u better pics