I am going to get 2055's. No sniffer here.


1) Should I have the air tubes chopped off, holes welded shut, then have the headers coated? Or should I just leave them on there?

2) If I did have them chopped, all I have to do is plug off where the tubes go now? Or would I have to bypass the air pump?

3) I am also thinking of a cutout. If I get the Y pipe coated, then take it somewhere for the cutout install, will this cause the coating to crack/chip?

 

once u get the air tubes off the headers and plug each hole, u dont have any use for the smog pump any more, and just remove all that stuff it gets in the way anyway

after that i would then get the headers coated, a nice set of coated non air headers looks sweet.

as far the y-pip i wouldnt even bother getting it coated, but thats just me, with all the low spots i go over y-pipe touching happens.

cant say about cutting the coated y-pipe for a cutout, just add the cutout right after the y-ypipe.

 

But wont that make the exhaust longer??

 

Yea but either way you look at it you are going to need some custom fab work down there. Pretty simple but you will most liekly just take a few inches off of your I-pipe. That is what I did with my y-pipe and new cat. They were a bit to long with the reducer attached so I just cit off the flange on my cat back and went from there. I would though take those headers and cut the AIR stuff off and remove all of the AIR stuff al together. Have you looked at the non emission SLP's. You can get those coated without AIR all in one step. Sure they are more but by the time you add up your costs for the others it may be the same.

 

I looked into them, and from what I read, I dont want the hassle

 

JetHot offers the 2055's already coated with the y-pipe coated as well. Mine were $520 delivered to my door, but I believe their prices went up. If you don't want the AIR tubes, I would email them and ask them if they can chop them off and weld them up before they coat them.

I would just leave the AIR tubes on it though, since sooner or later I bet all states will have emissions laws and you may have to change.

 

I did all the work myself. I cut off the tubes with an air grinder, ground the welds down, filed them smooth, had them welded up for $15 bucks, and then reground them down smooth. I doubt if you had someone else do it they would take all the time to make it look like they were never there in the first place. Just save the $ and do it yourself. It's pretty easy.

 

Man, I dont know what I want to do. ACS gave me a very good price to chop and coat.

 

Try to find someone who has had the same thing done and see how good of a job they did. I can tell you though that my headers look like nothing has been touched and they came that way from hooker. If acs can do that then if you dont mind paying a little extra go for it, if not then i'de just do it yourself. Really it's simply, if you have a hacksaw and a file you are good to go.

 

Just get coated 2055s and I would get the Y pipe coated(if you are not scraping it) so the exhaust would flow hotter farther. That should give the shorties very similar performance of coated long tubes. Also just leave the AIR tubes on. They don't hurt performance and you are helping the environment. Plus you never know what the laws will provide. I agree that it looks cleaner under the hood without them, but one could make the point that coated AIR tubes kinda look cool. Especially to the untrained eye.

 

You might want to check out the info in this stickie above https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=213310 before you chop off the A.I.R. system.

 

Ive read that before, I am not really worried about it. I am still undecided though.


Anyone got any information about the 2055's have an air tube backwards or something?

 

If you have a factory carb'd engine, the driver's side check valve points to the front. 2055's have the driver's side check valve point to the rear, like stock TPI.

 

When i got my 2460s, the passenger side check valve pointed to the rear, and i had to flip it around to make it hook up correctly to the air stuff, why is that? Just curious, but now i don't have any a.i.r stuff at all. oh, on a stock 85 TA TPI 305

 

They pattern the system after '86-up TPI.

 

cool, i didn't know that 85's AIR system was different.

 

Is it possible to just plug the spot where the air tubes go, and leave it be for a bit? Or if I plug them, do I have to stop the pump from working?

 

^?

 

I ran mine capped for 2 years (started the mods half an hour after passing emissions when stock, then finally hooked the system up when it was time to get it tested again).

But, I've got a carb'd system. I don't know if the stickie A.I.R.-delete stuff applies to me (I doubt it does).

 

Oh, guess I should have said I capped off at the check valve mount, and I didn't run the pump. Easy enough to take that belt off on my system.

If you don't have it hooked up, I wouldn't run it.

 

No. When I got my headers I took all of my AIR stuff out but left the smog pump on for a year. I only left it on because I could not get it out (torx bits and cramped areas are the devil). After a year the pump made popping and grinding sounds and started to sieze. That is when I got midevil on the pump and got it out. When I spin it now that it is off of the car it barely turns and makes a horrid gridning sound. The same thing happended to my buddies car. He left the pump on for about a year and he had the same outcome and sounds. We took his off and horrid sounds went away and his pump to was shot.

 

you could just run the smog-pump delete belt routing

 

Well if he has the serpentine set-up, which he does since his is a 88, you cannot just reroute the belt without taking off the pump. You can take the pulley off but the pump sticks out and the new belt will not clear it. The pump will need to be removed. With V-belt set-ups you can just take the belt off and be done with it.

 

Hello Guys, OKAY, All the AIR equiped hears are set up for TPI if you have TBI then you need to reverse 1 of the AIR inlet setups.
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