Would you be willing to sell just the headers & y-pipe? And would you be willing to ship? If so how much? I'm in Hawaii though so it might be expensive. Zip code here is 96744. Any info on this is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Anthony

 

WOW I am really interested in this post. I would love to see some pics and maybe more testamonies of guys that have fully installed those Hustler pipes.

Quick side question, I really want to see neer 500 RWHP, I am running a T-56, Moser 12 bolt and am gonna have a 383 built, forged. What HP do you think I need to shoot for?? Oh and what headers, or size?

If this is too much of a side note, i can allways start a new thread or somethin.

Thanks for any help in advance.

 

500 horsepower at the tires would be something like 615 horsepower at the flywheel. That is a lofty goal if this is still street driven.

 

Yeah I know. I am just shooting high and hoping for the best. I know that the real #'s once I get the motor will be lower, but a man can dream,

 

Do those hustler headers fit allright? Has anyone actually installed them yet? I have a tube K and arms. Getting a mini starter and relocation for filter are things I have no problem with.

Whatever headers I do get, there will just be bullet style mufflers and turndowns before the rear.

Any help is great, thx

 

Not with my good friend N2O!

 

WOW...this thread is loaded with some great info!
Something tells me the 1 3/4" SLP shorties I have may not be the best choice for my new 383. On the dyno carbed it made 523hp at the fly in a couple runs...it wasn't optimally tuned just dynoed to break it in since it was going to be fuel injected. It's in the car now with a Miniram, 42lb Lucas', and an AS&M Monoblade TB, so I'm hoping with a really good tune I can get up to at least 550hp at the fly.
The exhaust is the last major thing left on the list. I'm second guessing the SLP's and thinking about some 1 7/8's now...with a full 3.5" dual exhaust as well probably done by Finishline Performance here in IL. I already have the Mini starter and relocating the oil filter isn't a big deal....I'd love to hear any fitment issues and see some possible pics as well.....

Any other header recommendations?????

 

for yours, i don't think you'd take advantage of the larger primaries. i might suggest a set of the hooker 2210's which are 1 3/4" longtubes with a 3" primary. the advantage here is being able to keep the velocity of the air flowing high. the smaller diameter tubes will do just that. a 3" dual exhaust is good for 500+ rwhp so....

 

We'll find out what works. I've ordered the Hedman 65172(#?) which are 1-7/8"->2" stepped into 3.5" collectors. I've got ministarter, T56, oil relocation, and tubular Kmember already. If they fit OK, then that'll be what I go with. If not, there will be a few minor structural mods ;^). If still no go, I'll stick with the 2210's I guess (sigh...).

I'll need to go with at least 2x 3.5" to 4" out the back in terms of Y-pipe. Anyone done this before?

 

anyone wanting to get serious power out of say a 383 or bigger need to run a min of 1 7/8 primary tubes with a freeflowing mufflers. the stahl headers are nice, for the tube that goes thru the fenderwell and aroudnt eh frame you just cut a hole to stick it through as they are slip tube collectors.

lemons headers make some nice headers, but they aint cheap

http://www.lemonsheaders.com

 

Hmmmmmmm. Dual 3.5's or 4.0's. Watch out for the railroad tracks and the speed bumps.

 

Clearance won't be an issue Did some 'special' work under the car. I'll take pics in a couple weeks if/when it's all together.

 

I hear the 2210's are just fine for almost anything. Thats just what I hear, and what I plan to run,

 

he's putting out some monster power tho... he really needs the extra flow

 

Yes, we're talking 680hp at the flywheel. Also, the cam is a 110 LSA with monster duration, so it's extra sensitive to any exhaust backpressure. And even at that, I don't think that any more than 30-40 is being lost to the 2210 headers.

 

Oh wow. I wasn't aware of that really high output. Now thatI hear that, you should def stick with as much flow asyou can get. What part # are you considering?

 

IHI is your car streetdriven at all? All that power on 92 octane???!?!?!??

 

Okay, status update. These suckers fit! They needed a little coaxing, but I think the results will be well worth it. Check out the ground clearance, this is 1-7/8" to 2" stepped headers, going into 3" collectors and out to a 4" single-outlet. The whole thing will go to JetHot to get coated.

Note the slip fittings going at 45 degrees. This makes it MUCH easier to take the Y-pipe out. You can put it on and take it off with one hand.

To install and remove these headers, you basically need to remove the following (in order):
- Steering shaft (1 minute)
- Wires (2 minutes)
- Plugs (3 minutes)
- Dipstick tube (2 minutes)
- Y-pipe (3 minutes)
- Battery terminal (1 minute)
- Header bolts (5 minutes)
- Starter bolts (2 minutes once passenger's side header is loose and hanging freely)
- Headers (2 minutes)

It's amazing how easy these things are to get in and out considering how freaking huge they are. That's owed mostly to the tubular K-member, without which this would be totally impossible. Also no A/C, but I think it could be done with A/C as well. No brake booster either, which also helps.

Woo-hoo!

Don't try this without lots of time and a manic desire to make things work! This is with a Dart/Rocket block as well. There was really only one point that didn't clear, at the front of the passenger's side A-arm, so one tube was relocated about 3/8" forward. Also had to weld up the kickouts on the Moroso pan. Any pan without kickouts would be fine though, especially one that doesn't have the spread rails as on the Dart block.

Oh, and I had to clearance a little chunk around the clutch slave cylinder. Headers have good clearance all around now.

I'll post more pics when they're coated. Debating JetHot Sterling or JetHot2000.

 

Here's the headers and Y-pipe laid out on the ground.

 

Here's some pics up in there...

 

More pics...

 

Looking the other way. Check out that clearance!

 

Can you say speed bump?

 

This was the closest clearance point, where the tube had to be moved to clear the A-arm bolt head.

 

Damn, so you can't run a kick out huh?.....

 

Dave, that is awesome. You should get some good power out of that system. It is one of the best I have seen.

 

Excellent pics! Nice clearance! Am I correct to assume that this style header will not fit a car with stock k-member? Someone must sell an inexpensive header with 1 7/8" primaries. I'll bet those things sound exquisite!!

 

I'd really doubt that it could fit stock K-member, I didn't even try. Yes, it sounds almost sickening. Little big block sound. That plenum collector really mellows it out. Actually was significantly louder with the 1-3/4" open headers.

Now I've got it hung with the straight 4" out over the rearend. Sounds extremely mean. Going to put a Hooker AeroChamber on there and see if that tones it down a bit for street use.

 

All I can say is WOW! I got the headers all on the car with JetHot2000 Black coating, along with the Y-pipe and a 4" dump out the back. Ran it on the dyno tonight.

I also made the swap from 3.73 stock 10-bolt to 4.10 Ford 9", so there's something there in terms of loss.

The last time I ran on the dyno was with 1-3/4" SuperComp 2210 open headers. This time was with the new dual 3-1/2" -> 4" out of the headers illustrated in this thread.

I lost about 5 horsepower peak around 7000 (ca. 520hp or so to the wheels). However, below 5000, there were major gains in torque! Around 3500 or so, I picked up almost 60 ft-lbs! Up from 400 to 460. Peak torque was similar, but these headers (along with the Y pipe) seem to have spread it around down low. Weird, eh? Hey, I'll take it.

Ah well, I'm happy. I thought I'd lose down low going to these mostrosities, but actually gained big-time. Didn't lose anything up top either, actually gained a little if you factor in rearend inefficiencies going to the 9". Plus the whole exhaust looks totally radical.

I'll post some more pics. I went ahead with totally new oil pan (Canton) and K-member (BMR) as well. Very clean install.

 

Very interesting. I would have thought the same as you maybe losing a little on the bottom but gaining more on top. Also I have heard through rumor control that you will loose a little power by going to a numerically higher gear ratio.

By the way bought your Ostrich. We are still sorting the details out. Looks like it will be a very good tool when it is up and running.

 

Very interesting!

I would love more pictures!

So to make this work

- Ministarter
- Remote oil filter
- Tubular K-member
- Modify 1 pipe a little


Do you have straight or angled plugs?

/N.

 

That's funny. I've got straight on the passenger's side and angled on the driver's side. But it doesn't matter, it'll clear either way.

 

Wow that looks just like the Y pipe I made for my car 5 yrs ago...

heres a link to a pic of how i changed the y pipe for my BIG small block

http://www.team3rdgen.com/modules.ph...view_photo.php

Im running 1 3/4 hooker super comps into a 3" y into a slp cat back... soon to be dual 3" over the axle two on the left... just need to buy the 2 mufflers an finish up my tailpipes now..
Ground clearance is almost as good as stock

 

Any picture of the mods you did on the floor?

Are you using adapter plates on the heads?

/N.

 

Me ?? I have floorboard pix but not with my diji... trying to get them soon... I m also looking for 2" headers but without that flat collector..
my heads are AFR angle plug and i have no adapter