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Dynatech V-Clamps

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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 02:24 PM
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From: Yes I'm Dean
Car: Agood2.8,
Engine: V6rsr,
Transmission: Afrikingoodtime
Dynatech V-Clamps

Anyone use them. If so, could you please answer a few questions for me? Thank you.

http://www.secureperformanceorder.co...ProductID=6942

1) Do they leak?

2) they claim to be reuseable, have you tried to remove them after time and then reinstall them- is the quality good where they hold up to heat?

Dean
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Old Mar 2, 2005 | 01:10 AM
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They pretty much rock… you can disassemble/reassemble them in a couple of minutes, they seal well and most are stainless and last forever. They were originally designed for exhaust connections on diesel truck turbos that are intended to last 1/2million miles or more. Some of the smaller ones that the “performance” market is seeing now are actually intended for the cold side of a turbo setup, and I don’t know how good their longterm durability would be in an exhaust app.
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Old Mar 2, 2005 | 01:29 AM
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From: Yes I'm Dean
Car: Agood2.8,
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Thank you. I jsut know that every 3-bolt exhaust flange I own I have always run expensive SS nuts and bolts, yet after a year they still sometimes break getting them off (even when sprayed beforehand, and then heated up to temp)

They will be very hot. I am looking to use them on both sides of the catalytic convertor and a test pipe that will mostly run in its place. The exhaust gases on this car (even though its a little V6) will remain very hot because I have custom SS headers that are also ceramic coated. Even the y-pipe is SS and ceramic coated so the heat will stay in and flow to the rear. The rest of the exhaust will also just be 304 SS to and after the cat form the y-pipe, but no ceramic coating there.

Last edited by RTFC; Mar 2, 2005 at 01:34 AM.
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Old Mar 2, 2005 | 09:16 AM
  #4  
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From: Schererville , IN
Car: 91 GTA, 91 Formula, 89 TTA
Engine: all 225+ RWHP
Transmission: all OD
Axle/Gears: Always the good ones
The late 91 and 92 cars use that same style for the catbacks :-)

That dumb clamp is 25$ by itself now w/ the steel prices the way they are.

later
Jeremy
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Old Mar 2, 2005 | 05:13 PM
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Originally posted by RTFC
Thank you. I jsut know that every 3-bolt exhaust flange I own I have always run expensive SS nuts and bolts, yet after a year they still sometimes break getting them off (even when sprayed beforehand, and then heated up to temp)
there’s a reason why collectors, headers and other similar stuff is always supplied with mild steel hardware (if it’s better stuff it’s often black oxide coated so it lasts a little longer). Stainless galls as it slides on itself… in the case of a threaded fastener, that galling will lock it on itself destroying the threads as you try to remove it. Heat makes that worse.

There’s very few places that I will actually use stainless hardware because of this: non critical parts that appearance is the biggest issue, where you’re joining dissimilar metals, like aluminum sheet to anything and can’t use an appropriate fastener (an aluminum rivet), or the one other place I’ve used it with good success is on a flanged exhaust part at the back of the car that I intend to disassemble often (where it won’t get that hot and where the back tires will cover it with road crud and where a lubed mild steel part would be a problem). Otherwise it’s mild steel and anti-seize for most fasteners and otherwise things like v-band clamps which don’t involve any stainless parts sliding over each other.
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